The Traveller's Complete Guide Through Belgium and Holland (2024)

From The Art and Popular Culture Encyclopedia

--The Traveller's Complete Guide Through Belgium and Holland (1815) is a travel guide by Charles Campbell.

PREFACE.

DURING the late interval of Peace, as theman of pleasure, or of commercial enterprise, was daily invited to the Continent,complaints were frequent, notwithstandinga profusion of Tours and Travels, that aComprehensive Guide, adapted to existingcirc*mstances, was still wanting! Withoutthe least intention to depreciate the works.of former writers, it must be acknowledgedthat such alterations have taken place, thatnothing hitherto publishe will bear thecharacter of a COMPLETE GUIDE to anyTraveller of the present day. The latesweeping vicissitudes ofkingdoms and states,have in many places changed the ordinary courses of communication; and war hasnot only altered the face of several countries, but has given to many of them, newmasters and observances.Without a servile adherence to any writers who have confined their observations toNatural History, the Fine Arts, Agriculture, &c. we have, nevertheless, availed oura 2iv PREFACE.selves of every source of information, previously opened to us; hence no respectablewriter of any nation, has been neglected,whose inquiries have been, in any measure,calculated to assist the gentleman, the artist,or the merchant, in travelling the Continentwith pleasure and advantage. In otherwords, from the redundancy of his predecessors, the Author has been desirous ofselecting such a variety, as might be pleasing without prolixity, and useful withoutdryness; thus furnishing a treat, in whichthe nicest taste may be gratified withoutdisgust, and the keenest appetite satisfiedwithout surfeit; and at a charge within thecompass of the most economical visitant.The course pursued in the CONTINENTALGUIDE, is from Holland to the Low Countries, and thence to Germany, by the usualroute through Nimeguen and Arnheim tothe Rhine, following the line of that nobleriver, as far as invited by interest or curiosity. Hence, tracing the course of theDanube, and proceeding through Viennato Bavaria and Suabia; instead of terminating our inquiries at the Capital ofAustria, we return through Bohemia andSaxony, visiting in our way every place ofnote on the south side ofthe Elbe, not omitting to make an excursion to Hanover,which, since its erection into a kingdom , willPREFACE.probably become more interesting than everto an Englishman.Though every performance should speakfor itself, we may be permitted to remark,that the present volume will form a complete picture of Belgium, or the Low Countries,and other interesting parts ofthe Continent;not derived from any of the common geographical books, but from those more genuine sources of information, which havebeen opened to us by the renewal of a personal correspondence, and a free communication with all parts of the Continent.To increase the utility of this Guide,Tables ofthe Value of Money at differentplaces are faithfully given; the distance ofone place from another, is accurately described in English miles: the best Inns at eachplace arepointed out, and the necessary meansto avoid those impositions most frequentlypractised on the unwary traveller.As to the Sketches of some parts of Germany inthis Work, which may be supposedto border on the romantic, this can onlyarise from the want of a more intimate acquaintance with them: the Riesengebirge,or Giant Mountains, the Voyage up the Danube, the Watering Places in Bohemia, theEnvirons ofDresden, the Hartz, and Brocken Mountains, and some part of the LowCountries, will amply bear out this assertion.vi PREFACE.Probably the most diligent readers of Toursand Travels, written only in English, mayfeel some surprise on being hitherto so scantily acquainted with regions, in a mannerunexplored; and the moreso, on finding inthese recesses, where nature seems dressedin awful sublimity, civil ties, and social enjoyments, which bind man to man, and continue to connect the chain of his being,where it might have been supposed to havebroken off.N. B. Every variety of Coin necessary for Travellers ,may be procured of any of the Bullion Brokers about theRoyal Exchange, and Letters of Credit to all parts ofEurope, may be had at the Banking House of Hammersley and Co. or Herries and Co.Gentlemen desirous of acquiring the German Language,will find great facility in the use of " Render's PRACTICAL GRAMMAR," fourth edition; as also, his " EXERCISES;"these, with his " COMPLETE POCKET DICTIONARY" of theEnglish and German, and German and English Languages,contain a fund of Philology; and, as an Elementary Work,or an Easy Introduction to the German Grammar, Dia- logues, &c. nothing can exceed " MULLER'S CONCISE EN- GLISH AND GERMAN SPELLING BOOK."To those Gentlemen who have favoured the Authorwith Communications for this Edition, he begs leave to express his unfeigned acknowledgments; and he will feelparticularly obliged by any hints or corrections addressedto the Publishers, No. 20, Paternoster Row.

vi PREFACE.Alexander Macpherson del! ooper sculp!General Directions for Travellers.EVERY traveller should endeavour to lay down anexact plan, from which he should never deviate, without the most urgent motives. He should also makenotes upon the relays, the inns, and the most remarkable places where he may intend to stop . There areother notices to be taken by the traveller of the detailof persons and things to be seen in each place, whichmay generally determine the duration of his stay there.Following this method, he may avail himself of everymoment of his leisure, besides the saving of unnecessary expenses.Previous to his departure a traveller should consultwith his acquaintance as to the place to which they`might address their letters, or receive others from him,carefully arranging both the time and the manner.Those directed poste restante, or to be left at the postoffice, are certainly the least secure of any it is preferable to direct your letters or packets to some banker,or some respectable merchant or bookseller, at any ofthe places predetermined.Beware of giving in a wrong name at the gates ofany place, or in the place itself; as it may be productive of very great inconveniencies in any countrywhere the police will not easily suffer themselves to beimposed upon.Shakspeare has already given the best rules as tothe manner of dress; when speaking to the father of B2 GENERAL DIRECTIONSLaertes, he says, " Dress as well as your purse willallow, without extravagance, not always formally, butwith taste; the habit always shews the man. "The French language is become so general, that astranger who wishes to visit any country, with the language of which he is unacquainted, ought at least tounderstand the French, supposing of course that he isperfectly acquainted with his own.It will always be necessary to procure the most exactinformation as to prohibited or contraband goods.If by chance you should have them with you, thewisest way is to get rid of them, or to make an open declaration ofthe circ*mstance before the proper authorities. What is called fraud, can never properlybelong to a man of honour, and this ought to be asufficient inducement to every traveller to respect himself. It is too common to declaim against customhouses and custom-house officers; but a little politeness and proper language will never be found withouttheir effect. On the other hand, the inconvenienceswhich travellers complain of, are but too frequentlydrawn upon themselves. Neither should gentlemenever suffer their domestics to have any concern withcontraband goods, as in this case it is the master alonewho is always responsible.It is of the utmost importance for travellers inFrance to know, that, with respect to coin, two decrees of the National Assembly still exist in full vigour;which prohibits, under pain of imprisonment and fine,the exportation of silver, coined or in bars. It istherefore necessary that the stranger, on enteringFrance, should make a declaration at the bureau ofthe frontier, of the species and quantity of gold orsilver in his possession, of which he will receive acertificate. The traveller ought to insist upon makingthis declaration, even though the custom- house officers,as examples have shewn, should refuse to accept it,under the idea that it is unnecessary. However, the.ost infallible method of securing yourself against allFOR TRAVELLERS. 3kind of chicanery, is to convert all your money intoletters of exchange, upon the German side of theRhine, or any of the French frontiers; and not tocharge yourself with more than a few livres.Atraveller should by no means attempt to take withhim, into the French territory, either packets or simple letters if they are sealed: as, on the contrary, heis subject to be thrown into prison, and to pay a fine of 500 livres for each letter. There is likewise somespecies of carriages, which, being introduced intoFrance, and particularly Berlines or Coupés, must besent away again at the expiration of a year. At present, on entering France, people pay at the customhouse a third of the value of the carriage they introduce. A fourth of this sum is always returned inready money, in exchange for the receipt presented of the former. The other fourth is retained at thecustom-house, as what is called droit acquis.eyesA traveller should never suffer two of his trunks, &c .to be inspected at once; for as he cannot have hisevery where, it may happen that whilst you are lookingat one they may pilfer something out of the other, oreven slip something into it on purpose to involve youin difficulty. It is customary in France to have thetrunks, &c. sealed or plumbed at Paris in order to getrid of the disagreable inspections along the road; butsometimes when going to a place at a great distance itmay be proper to defer the sealing of your packages; asthe least friction of the seal rendering it illegible, maysubject you to much inconvenience. In some countriestoo, the introduction of packages, sealed , or unsealed,is prohibited; and no person leaving France can takeany money with them beyond a given sum. On theseheads a traveller should never suffer himself to wantinformation.A traveller should never interfere with the receivedopinions ofthe country where he is a stranger, thoughever so closely connected with error or prejudice, muchless discuss, or set himself up as a judge of them.AsB 24 GENERAL DIRECTIONSmuch as possible he should likewise avoid all conversation upon politics. To hear and forbear, ought tobe the order of the day with every traveller. This however does not absolutely prohibit any kind of observation en passant. Every thing remarkble occurring in thecourse of the day however, if prudent, he will not fail toenter into an Album, every evening, in order thatnothing may escape him which is truly worthy of attention. As to any news of real importance it is necessarythat the traveller should make minutes ofthe name, thecapacity, and the residence of the person communicating the same. Much of the authenticity of thesecommunications depend on these particulars.Never fail to take with you the map or plan of theinterior of the large towns and cities which you mayvisit. This is the best guide you can have, as it contains at least, the panoramic view ofthe streets andpublic places. As to small places there are very few ofthese directions to be had. But in France, you shouldnever omit reading the Annuaires, the Statistiques, thePlacards, and the Journals that appear in the principalplaces. The reading of these are attended with moreadvantages, physical, political, and historical, thanpeople would imagine. With a map in your hand youmay ascend the highest tower in the place, and from atopographical view, regulate your future progress withadvantage.It very frequently happens that persons may be foundin coffee-houses capable of giving you very useful information relative to celebrated artists co-residents withthem; the work shops or manufactories; the Pensionsor Institutes-And it is never adviseable to attempt tovisit any of these without some kind of introduction .A traveller should never be suspected of being penurious; the lower order of the people in every place arealways more or less influenced by money. On the otherhand, nothing is so absurd as to talk of your money inthe inns, &c . persons so vain or imprudent are alwayslaughed at when their backs are turned, and they areFOR TRAVELLERS. 5generally made to pay for their vanity. From innkeepers, postmasters, &c. these persons cannot rea.sonably expect any favours.Travel as much as possible with persons of whomyou have some knowledge, and avoid strange faces;but as this cannot always be put in execution, takecare how you place any reliance upon persons whomyou may casually meet with. Never ask them anyquestions as to the object of their journey, nor wherethey intend to put up, &c. and be sure if they putsuch questions to you, to avoid giving any positive answer. Even persons whom you may have seenbefore are not to be too hastily recognized or trusted.It is equally imprudent to take up foot passengers onthe road from a false principle of compassion; thishas been the cause of many murders and assassinations.Persons who travel with a servant cannot be tooscrupulous in their choice, as one of this description,faithful, sober, discreet, and active, is a real treasure.There are many advantages attending the chusing ofa servant from the place of his birth. He should beneither too young nor too old; but as in other things,the golden'mean should always be adopted.Pistols, with double barrels, provided they havebut one trigger, are always the best for a traveller.Agates are generally esteemed in preference to flints.A horizontal position for fire arms in a carriage isalways the best, as then the charge is not so likely tobe forced towards the mouth by the jolting of the vehi cle. The couloirs made in France for preventingpistols from going off when not wanted, is a very goodinvention. If necessary to fire, which is sometimesdifficult to determine, it should be deferred at leasttill the robber or robbers are close enough to see thewhites of their eyes. Generally speaking, even themost numerous bands are frequently in fear of almostevery person they attack. Still nothing is more important to a traveller than to see to the good and properstate of his pistols which are subject to be injured by B 36 GENERAL DIRECTIONSmoist weather, rain, or fogs, and should at all events bereloaded once every fortnight.If you have to pass over a bridge or through a riverduring the night, never place implicit confidence inyour postillions, who are often intoxicated or sleepy.Be equally upon your guard likewise, if you have totraverse a large or lonely forest in the night. Neverventure upon it in the night without the most urgentnecessity; rather wait the arrival of the next day.Letters of recommendation not only to substantialbankers but to other respectable persons are by nomeans to be despised . It is not likely that a strangershould have too many friends among foreigners, andcases may possibly occur, in which their assistanceto extricate you from embarrassments, or to afford protection, may be highly valuable.An excellent method of preserving papers andwritings is to have an envelope of paper nearly thestrength of cartridge paper, and then deposit them atthe bottom of a trunk or coffer, after having taken anote of their contents; this is also the place for rouleaus of money, books or any other objects, the weightof which might bruise or spoil other things of a different texture. The large port folios that are shut witha lock, are still the best for papers. For those of importance Count Berthold recommended a kind of belt,covered with red leather, with four pockets to it, tabout the distance of an inch from each other, in orderthat the whole may be pliable. This belt may beworn under the waistcoat and buckled round thewaist. Each of the pockets is fastened by a flat metal button.Trunks and coffers short and deep are preferable tothose that are long and shallow; these at all timesshould be very strong, and even the outsides of themshould be strengthened with iron and fastened downifpossible between the front wheels and the carriage.A traveller should invariably make up his packetsthe night previous to his departure, and never wait tillFOR TRAVELLERS. 7the last moment. Many travellers neglecting this precaution, often spoil their things by heaping them one upon another, and sometimes forget some of them.What are called Vaches and demi Vaches are ofexcellent use upon the continent; but while the cofferor trunk is appropriated to the heaviest luggage, thevacheis intended for clothes, a lady's toilette, &c. andpossesses the convenience of suffering the clothes, &c .to be extended to their full length.When a person has his own carriage, he will do wellto have what are called Magazin et poches to put thingsin which may be liable to be wanted in the night without being obliged to open the trunks, &c. Personswho have no carriage of their own, should at least havea night bag, or for greater convenience, a portmanteau.An article the most indispensable to travellers is astrong box for their money, jewels, bills of exchange,&c. These sometimes contain pens, ink, paper, andvisiting cards, in the latter of which, written or printed,the traveller should never be deficient. In greatcities, the name of the inn, or the number of the housewhere the traveller is, must be mentioned. Thesecards often prevent a great deal of trouble when travellers are examined at the gates. The cassettes orstrong boxes should, for security be attached to thesides or the bottom of the carriage, or in one's chamber at the inn. Most of these cassettes are providedwith an escritoire, basons, bottles, razors, soap dishes,&c.Some persons are accustomed to take with them alarge sack, made of the most impenetrable leather,containing a complete travelling bed; viz. a mattrass,coverlid, pillows, sheets, and sometimes a bedsteadmade of iron, but extremely light. Lady Craven completed the convenience of this bedstead, by a veryhappy invention, in causing the feet of it to stand invases filled with water, which cut off all communication between the bed and those insects which sometimes infest bed chambers.8 GENERAL DIRECTIONSSome travellers , to avoid infection, constantly carrywith them a sheet, and two deer skins sewed together,perhaps six feet long and three broad. These theyspread upon the bedsteads, at the inns where they think there is occasion for them. The whole of thisapparatus may be rolled up in a small compass; butit often requires airing. People who have no suchconvenience, should never venture to sleep in a bedwhich they suspect, wholly undressed; though garters,braces, and cravats, should always be loosed.The rouleau de voyage. is a modern luxury: it ren- ders the movement of the carriage infinitely more easy.This rouleau is a bourlet made of sheep skin, five orsix inches thick, covered with hair, and filled withgoose down. This is used as a pillow to sleep on,and with the assistance of straps, as a garment towear.There are certain things which no traveller shouldneglect taking with him, whether he travel in his ownor in a public carriage; on foot or on horseback:these are un gobelet de voyage, with an etui. Some ofthese are made of horn, and plated in the inside with silver. These etuis also sometimes contain a corkskrew, a carrelet, a small but safe padlock in theform of a cross; the latter, however, should never beused but in suspected places, as every innkeeper mustsuppose they pay a very bad compliment to his house.A writing pen is another indispensable article; onemuch in use, was lately called a Tilsit, made of metal,with a small cap, from whence the ink falls of itself;but which is still so well secured, that it may be carried without apprehension. The barometers made byLuc and Rosenthal, at Paris, are also an object with some curious travellers.A traveller who uses his own carriage, ought to confine himself to one trunk, vache, or cassette; considering how many objects may be stowed in theels of the coach, the traveller would find morethan these extremely embarrassing.FOR TRAVELLERS.Though most travellers are provided with portfolios, &c. they would nevertheless do well to leave,at the disposition of their servant, a quantity of linen,needles and thread, and other things necessary tolight a fire.As it is very imprudent for a traveller to take chargeof too much current cash, the best mode he can adoptis to convert it into bills of exchange, or letters ofcredit; the latter are in many cases preferable to theformer. With respect to paper money he cannot be -too cautious.Relative to travelling in France, you may calculateyour expenses at one franc each league, including themoney given for drink to the postilions, &c.: that is,supposing you drive two horses, and your suite consists of one servant only. A person travelling postwithout delay, and who eats, drinks, and sleeps in hiscarriage, will find his expenses not exceeding two smallFrench crowns each post, but probably some balancein his favour. It must be owned also, that whateverpersons travelling this way lose in their prospects, theygain it again in their pockets. As for what is given tothe guards, keepers of public edifices, gardens, museums, &c. for a sight of these places, people willsave considerably by not going alone, but with thecompany they may find at their inns.Ever so short a stay in great towns and cities isalways dear; but may be considerably reduced by making proper arrangements. One part of these isto take a ready furnished lodging, where you maypractice economy without apprehension or embar- rassment.The Traveller at his Inn. -It is an uncontrovertedrule, that inns most frequented are those whose chargesare most reasonable. We may add, that the traveller,whose deportment is civil and obliging, will always bebetter served than the rude and over-bearing. Toknow the best inns, is to listen to the voice of commonfame, but by no means to depend upon the eulogies10 GENERAL DIRECTIONSof the postillions; however it may so happen, that in many inns people may be better entertained, and at alower rate in one season than another.A traveller who has no servant, will do well to takea note of the name of the inn , and that of the street,at which he puts up, as there are sometimes two housesof this description of the same name.As nothing is more unwholesome than to sleep in aroom which has been a long time shut up, the windowsshould be opened immediately -wainscot painted,papered rooms, or even bare plaistered walls, are preferable to those hung with tapestry of silk or woollen.These retain unwholesome air much the longest. Ininns as elsewhere, cleanliness is every thing. Andwhere people do not find their own sheets they cannottoo much insist upon seeing their own beds made, andexamining whether the sheets are dry. Ifthe bed hascurtains, or a tester, it will be prudent to remove itfrom the wall, as these often serve as a retreat fordifferent kinds of vermin, which it may not be neces- sary to name. Sometimes these ancient ornaments arenot well secured, and there is a possibility of their falling whilst you are asleep.In winter, rooms with stoves are equally disagreeable and dangerous to travellers; nothing is moreunwholesome than the vapours from stoves; no travel,ler should sleep in a room where there is one. Τοcarry one's face too near a stove when burning, isextremely prejudicial to the stomach and the eyes.Stoves formed of earthenware are preferable to thoseof metal; and those that burn wood, are less nuisiblethan others that consume coals .As for bugs, there are many modes of destroyingor driving them away; one of the most efficacious is,to place two small balls ofcamphor at the foot of yourbed, and two at the head, between the sheets andthe mattrass, removing the bedstead from the wall.This at first may have the same effects upon the nervesas a narcotic; though, if used but now and then, itFOR TRAVELLERS. 11will not be prejudicial to health. The burning of twoor three lighted candles is another method used fordriving these reptiles away. In Italy, and other hotcountries, where people are plagued with flies, it isthe custom to hang round the bed what is called aZinzaliere, or a kind of gauze curtain.It is of the greatest importance for a traveller tohave a bed to himself, as he cannot be too muchupon his guard against becoming the dupe of a bed- fellow.It may not be sufficient to lock your chamber- door,and take the key with you; because the landlord orhis people may have other keys. When you intend tobe absent, therefore, you should take care to leave.your trunks, &c. well secured, to prevent their being searched, for various purposes.The best way is , when you go out, to leave the keyin the care of the landlord, or one of the principalwaiters, as this step renders them responsible for yourproperty. If the innkeeper refuses to take charge ofyour key, you will then do well to remove your mostvaluable effects to the house of some banker, to whomyou may have letters of credit, or recommendation, orbills of exchange; and get an acknowledgment of thereceipt of them. But never leave your room- dooropen, though you may be absent only a few minutes.If compelled to put up at any inn where you mayhave any reason to be under apprehensions for thesafety of your person, it is good to be provided witha padlock. Be sure also to burn a light, and haveyour servant to sleep near at hand. If you cannotpadlock your door, you may at least barricade it withthe chairs and tables in your bed- chamber.As there are different rules and regulations in various places, the non- observance of which might subjectyou to inconvenience, the traveller who intends toinake any stay will act prudently in making enquiriesinto these affairs, either of the innkeeper or his ser- vants.12 GENERAL DIRECTIONSIn large places, a valet de place is sometimes indispensable. If no price is fixed for his services, youmust agree with him for his wages, which is generallya florin per day. If you employ him to make anypurchases for you, you must take care that there isno collusion between him and the dealer, to wrongyou. But with respect to the choice of a valet or awasherwoman, it is generally the most eligible wayto refer to the innkeeper with whom you reside,Innkeepers are in the habit of asking their guestswhat they would chuse to have for dinner, &c .; butyour best way is to enquire what they have got in thehouse; otherwise, if you order any thing particular,they will make you pay for that and the ordinary pro- vision into the bargain.Ifyou are in a bad inn, never eat any ragouts, as these may be made up of scraps and leavings, or otherunwholesome matters: rather ask for roast meat, hotor cold; for eggs, milk, pulse, &c. In such places,put up also with ordinary wine; for if you ask forother kinds, it is generally drawn from the same cask,and you only lose your money for your pains.Every traveller who is alone, may live at a muchcheaper rate and much more agreeably at a table d'hote than if he is served at his own chamber. There ismuch amusem*nt and information to be acquired atthese public tables; and, besides, travellers sometimesform very useful connections. However they are notwithout their inconveniencies; for, standing too muchupon ceremony, a man may pass all the dishes fromhimself and run the risk of rising hungry from thetable. Families, however, on their travels, have nochoice as to eating at home, though at a dearer rate,as innkeepers who keep a public table, think they havea right to lay a tax upon the private ones.The noise of an inn is a thing to which strangersfind some difficulty to reconcile themselves. Themost tranquil time of night is from ten till about fivein the morning. Madame de Genlis, as a remedy forFOR TRAVELLERS. 13his evil, recommends the putting of a piece of cottoninto each ear, well saturated with oil olive, about thesize of a large nut, and to add to this a piece ofdrycotton; probably forgetting that the ears thus sealedup might be deaf even to the alarm of fire.At most inns it is best to pay your bills every day, orat furthest every three days. This is a method notvery pleasing to many innkeepers; but it is the bestway to prevent being fleeced, because your host is always under some apprehension, that if not well treated, you will change your house. It is not necessaryto ask what is the sum total of the charge; but tokeep and give in a specific account of all you havehad. In some inns it is necessary, the moment youstep into them, to enquire into the price ofthe bed,the table d'hote, &c. unless you would pay three or four times more than the value.Be very careful of receiving from your host, orany other person, any of that small money which youfind difficult to pass elsewhere; but if possible, obtainthat large money which you know to be current inthe route you are pursuing.Meteorological Observations, or Indications of fineWeather, Rain, &c.NOTHING is more important to a traveller than tobe able to know with some certainty if the weatherwould be favourable or not, and this will of courseaccelerate or defer his departure. As to rain thereare several animals who announce it: -the bat whenhe does not shew himself at night:-the swallow whenin his flight he skims the surface of the earth andwater, at which time they take flies and other insectsupon which they feed: the crows when they appearsingly upon the sands, &c,: -the ravens when theycroak aloud in the trees, hens, pigeons, sparrows, &c.when they delve in the dust: -the frogs when theycome out of the water and disperse themselves about14 GENERAL DIRECTIONSthe fields; fish in general, but carp in particular, whenthey spring from the bottom to the surface of therivers: the gad flies when they bite the legs of horses,cows, &c. with uncommon violence; or when theseflies come into houses: -earth-worms when they comeupon the surface of the ground; but it is the spiderwhich is the most susceptible of the variations oftheatmosphere.When water is visibly attracted by the sun, rainyweather generally succeeds. If in fine weather theclouds collect and heap one upon another, they area certain indication of rain.Circles seen about the sun and moon, indicate theapproach of fog, rain, or snow. These luminousmeteors, never appear unless the air contains a certainquantity ofwatery vapours, ice, or water.3The state ofthe atmosphere at sun-rise and sun- set,oron the moon's appearance, affords various indicationsof rain. When, during fine weather, the stars rise orset more or less red, and appear different in figure,they announce a large mass of watery vapours in thelower clouds, the decomposition of which, cannotbe long delayed.If during a rainy, or a cloudy day, a west windrises, and the sun appearing in the horizon, sits in aclear part of the atmosphere, this announces fair weather for twenty-four hours at least.While westerly winds prevail, one cannot promiseany thing from the rising of the sun, though ever so bright: the contrary may be said of the east wind.During a warm morning, ifthe rising sun is obscuredby thick masses of clouds, we may reasonably expect a storm before night. The red colour in the east inthe morning, and in the west of an evening, is anotherindication of vapours in the horizon.When isolated clouds are seen, and the air appearsof a dark blue; the same as when on the contraryit appears of a clear blue, rain will certainly follow.When, during a rainy day, the sky partially clears up,FOR TRAVELLERS. 15it is a sign that the serenity of the air will not be oflong duration . 8Fine weather may generally be depended uponwhen the barometer rises during a foggy morning;but when fogs do not begin to rise till towards noon;when they remain more than twenty-four hours; whenthe barometer falls at their approach, they generally resolve into snow or rain.When a drizzling rain is changed into a shower, theclouds may be expected to disperse very soon.The west winds are always humid, of a moderatetemperature, and not very variable; hence they seemfresh in summer and warm in winter. The north andnorth-east winds generally produce cold; the northwest wind is attended with light and sudden showers,snow, &c. The east winds are accompanied with clear and dry weather. The south and south-eastwinds, often produce great heats as well as rain; those of the south-east never. The most violent stormsalmost always come from the west generally accompanied with rain.When clouds settle upon the summits of highmountains, rain generally follows. On this account,in Saxony, they sometimes say, "the Bohemian fogis coming". The Brocken as well as the Kiefhausserofthe mountains of Thuringia is a weather prophet.Vapours ascending from clouds or rocks duringrain announce, its continuation . Fogs from rivers aresometimes, but not always, followed by bad weather.When no dew falls in the night, it is a certain signof rain.!The Aurora Borealis particularly, when succeededby a north wind, announce dry weather in summer,and cold weather in winter.In very warm weather, when there is no wind, veryviolent storms may be expected. Storms from thenorth and the north-west generally produce cold weather. In Germany this is often observed, even in themiddle of June.C 216 GENERAL DIRECTIONSAs to the observations made by M. QuatremereD'Isjonval, the authenticity of which has been sooften acknowledged, they refer entirely to the sagacityof the spider, and its foresight of the changes of theweather. Experience has evidently proved that withrespect to the variations of the atmosphere, the indications of the barometer, the thermometer, and anyother instrument, are nothing in comparison with thecertainty of the spider's predictions. Fine weathermay always be expected, when the garden spiders produce several webs, particularly when they make newones in the night. It is also an indication of settledfine weather when they spin the master-threads of newwebs to a large extent.Variable weather may be expected when there arebut few webs, and when the spider spins slowly and upon a smaller scale.Rain may be looked for when few or no webs areto be seen, and the spider remains inactive; and whenthe master threads, attached to the web, are very short.Wind and rain may be expected, when the spider istotally inactive; but if they produce lines, withoutattaching to them the circular threads, the wind orrain will not last more than twelve hours.If the spider suddenly destroys a considerable partof his web, and then conceals himself completely inhis hole, an impetuous wind may be expected; butnot being of long duration, will end in fine weather.After rain the spider is observed to spin very longthreads, and to increase in activity, better weather willbe sure to follow; but if they make new lines, andthese at a considerable distance from each other, orbegin to deposit their eggs, a very long continuanceof fine weather may be relied upon.DIRECTIONS TO TRAVELLERS IN HOLLAND.THE Treckschuyt is a long barge, divided into twoapartments; the one aft, being called the ruif, pos-FOR TRAVELLERS. 17sesses superior accommodations, and will hold fromeight to a dozen persons; and the other, from fortyto fifty. This vessel, towed by a single horse, moveswith such regularity, at the rate of four miles an hour,that the Dutch always compute by the hour instead ofthe mile. In this cabin, or ruif, there are four obliquewindows, which move up and down; and a table inthe middle, with a long drawer, filled with pipes.There is also a spitting-box, and a little iron pot, containing burning turf, for accommodating the smokerswith a light. The seats are covered with handsomecushions. The ruif is generally occupied by the genteeler passengers, though the price is but about three- pence an hour. So steady is the motion of the vessel,that a person may read, write, or even draw in it. Theruif is furnished with glass windows, while the otherassigned to the inferior passengers has only leathercurtains or shutters. The rudder is right before theentrance into the ruif; at the other extremity of the vessel, there is a kind of mast, from the upper end ofwhich a long cord descends, one end attaching to theruif and the other to the horse that tows the vessel,whilst he is ridden by the Jajartge or driver, and whose common pace is a trot. Some of these drivershave a cow's horn suspended over their shoulder, togive notice of their departure, or to other vessels pas- sing on the same canal. But though going at the rate of more than four miles an hour, or about a Germanmile, the conductors are so skilful that they are neverknown to run foul of each other. A person may hirethe whole of the ruif to himself, by giving propernotice. Each passenger is also allowed to take a hundred weight ofluggage, duty free. All these Schuytsare numbered, and according to this they set out andreturn. If a single person chuses to have eight places,he is not charged above half price. Few of the Schuytsare made to contain less than eight persons in thecabin, and thirty abaft: others contain more. Theyare all painted black and green. At each post it is C 318 GENERAL DIRECTIONSalways customary to give the driver of the horse a fewdoights at least, or a stiver. At such places wherethese Schuyts stop on account of any interruption, orwhere passengers exchange boats, there are women whooffer refreshments, such as little rolls, and slices ofcold baked eels, upon a small stick .The Beurt schippen, another mode of conveyance,are large vessels with two masts, principally employedupon the Zuyder Zee; these are continually passingfrom Amsterdam to Lemmer, Harlingen, and otherplaces. Here are four kinds of accommodation inthese vessels; viz. the cabin, where a middling-sizedperson may very well stand upright, with side benches,windows, and a table in the midst; recesses for beds,&c. What is here called the ruif, is a place upondeck, under cover, where twelve persons may sitround a table, and provided with beds. There arealso beds between decks, for persons who are chargeda less price; besides the hold, where others for cheapness chuse to be stowed pell-mell, with the goods.Many of these vessels carry from 100 to 130 passengers; the cabin price is not less than a ducat from Lemmer to Amsterdam, from whence the passage ismade in about ten hours: however, every accommodation desired may be had on board these vessels, at avery reasonable charge; as wine, coffee, tea, liqueurs,&c.But in proportion as the owners are civil and moderate in their charges, the porters that are employedto carry luggage, &c. are rude and imposing. It isalways indispensibly necessary to make a bargain withthem before- hand, unless people wish to be abused bythem, and to pay their demands after all. At Amsterdam in particular, it is highly necessary to be uponone's guard. You must not only make your bargainwith the porter (kruver) you employ, but never losesight of him, as not doing so you would run the hazardof never seeing him or your property again. It is alsonecessary to have a proper knowledge both of theFOR TRAVELLERS. 19street and the house where you intend to lodge; forthough the stories told of ( Zielverkoopers ) kidnappers, and bloodsellers, are very much exaggerated,they are not altogether void of foundation. It istherefore the safest to get a recommendation from thecaptain of your vessel, or some other respectable person worthy of confidence. People that take theTreckschuyts, also should be careful not to carry toomuch baggage with them, not only because of thehazard in removing it from one Schuyt to another,but on account of the hurry attending it. Instead ofseveral packages, you should, if possible, make butone. In general, a person who takes but one place inthe ruif, would do well to take but one portmanteauwith him, and send his heavy luggage by one of thepacket-boats to the inn where he is going. This is anessential precaution to those who would wish to go bythe Schuyts at the least expence. The Dutch innkeepers in general have the character of being greedy;but these are mostly in little places, and on the mostunfrequented roads. It is much the best to dine atthe table d'hote, or the ordinary.People travelling in Holland seldom take supper,and when ordered, it is always highly charged. Asfor the coffee generally drank in Holland, it is nothingbut water lightly tinged! and this is generally drank without sugar. Half an ounce is reckoned sufficientto make fifteen cups. Hence it is common in theDutch inns for them to ask you if you wish to haveyour coffee made in the German way? You must thenspecify the number of cups you would have them tomake with an ounce, or half an ounce of coffee; otherwise they will not only charge you more than ordinary,but they will make you such coffee that no strangercan drink. In all cases travelling by water, is infinitely preferable to going by land. At Amsterdamfresh water is sold about the streets at the rate ofeighteen-pence per gallon.In consequence of a sameness of appearance which20 GENERAL DIRECTIONSprevails in all the streets of Holland, a stranger mustbe particularly careful to notice his way, or providehimself with a guide, or he will experience great difficulty in returning to his home.In passing through the streets of Holland, it is necessary for people to regard their own personal safety,and not trust to the forbearance of a Dutchman, ashe will never lose a moment of his time, or step aninch out of his way to save a stranger from any incon- venience. A warehouseman trundling a cask, or awoman in the favourite occupation of throwing waterupon her window, will leave it entirely to passengersto take care oftheir limbs or their apparel.The practice of giving vails still continues in fullforce in Holland, it is therefore necessary on making avisit, to carry a few florins in your pocket, as the servant who opens the door to let you out, will expect toreceive one or two; and should you neglect it, maynot improbably contrive to retaliate on your clothes bysome awkward accident or other, the next time youvisit the house. This is not to be wondered at, ifit beconsidered that at houses of great resort in Holland,the servants receive no wages, but depend entirely onthese perquisites.Public coaches are always to be had by sending toa livery stable, but do not stand in the streets for fares.The charges are however rather high, as there are butfew carriages allowed in Holland.As for miles, these are not enquired after in Holland;the hours taken up in travelling are the ground ofall calculation here. The Dutch method of computingdistance, is so many hours to such a place; not leagueslike the French, nor miles as the English.In travelling from Amsterdam to Utrecht it is infinitely the best way to go by water, and indeed the samemay be said generally of all the journeys in Hollandwhich can be made by the Treckschuyts. As thereis no regular posts you must make a bargain beforehand, or you will be entirely at the mercy ofthe pro-FOR TRAVELLERS. 21prietor. However excellent carriages and horses areto be procured at a livery stable close to the housefrom which the Utrecht Schuyts set out. In Amsterdam the price of a carriage for the day, is fourteenflorins, and for this consideration the coachman pro- vides for himself and horses.It is generally understood that the language of Holland is divided into high and low Dutch, whereasthere is but one pure language called Neder Duitch,which is the language of the Netherlands. In Holland,as in every other country, there is a variety ofprovincial dialects but none deviating more from thegenuine Dutch, than that of Frieseland, a Dutch pro- vince.As to accommodations in money concerns, it ishighly necessary for persons going to Holland, or elsewhere, (if possible, ) to exchange their money for thatofthe country they are going to. Travellers are onlypermitted to take out with them a certain proportionof specie, from ten to twenty guineas; consequentlyit is necessary that persons, over and above the sumthey carry with them, should be provided with bills.upon Amsterdam, or elsewhere, to a banker, &c. Thefollowing is a sketch of the present Dutch currentcoins, with their value in English:Adoight makes ....Two doights make a groot.Two groots make a stiver ...•Six stivers make a schilling silver ...£. s. d.0 0 00 00 00 0 60168Twenty stivers make a gilder, or florin ... 0 1 8Two gilders and a half make a rix-dollar silver .... 044A ducat, gold ... 0 9 4Half-ryder..Ryder....Double ryder...0 12 51 4 10210 3Toknow the Dutch coins by sight, and for the pur-22 GENERAL DIRECTIONSpose of making a proper distinction between the different species of them, the traveller will find the following description of use to him.The standard weight of gold in Holland is dividedinto 24 karats, each karat being subdivided into 12grains; that of silver is 12 pennings, each of whichcontain 24 grains. Among the different kinds of goldcoin, the ducat of gold bears on one side the impression of a man completely armed with a sabre inone hand, and in the other seven arrows bound together on the other side is a legend within a square,viz. Mo or Dprovin. foeder. belg. ad leg. imp. This ducat goes for five florins, five sous, or 11 liv. 11 sousof the ancient French money, and the double ducat isvalued in proportion. The gold ryder bears on oneside a man on horseback completely armed, and holding a sabre with his arm lifted up. Under the horse is a small ecusson. On the other side an ecusson represents a lion, in one paw grasping seven arrows, andin the other a sabre. The ryder goes for 14 florins,30 liv. 16 sous, of the ancient French money, and thehalf-ryder in proportion. All these coins bear this legend, Concordia res parvæ cresc*nt. The silver ryder,or ducatoon, bears the same impression with the goldryder, excepting the field, which represents the lion,which is supported by two crowned lions; it goes forthree florins three sous, or six livres , 18 sous six den.of the old French money, being six francs 88 cents ofthe new money; the half silver ryder in proportion.The ducat, or rix-dollar of silver, represents on oneside a man on foot, armed with a sabre resting on hisshoulder, and the other on the escutcheon. It passesfor two florins 10 sous, five liv. 10 sous old Frenchmoney, or five francs 48 cents ofthe new, and the halfducat in proportion . The legends round the ducatoonand the silver rix-dollar are the same as the gold. Thepieces of three florins have on one side a womanarmed with a helmet, with one arm supported on abook, holding a pike in the other hand, with a cap atFOR TRAVELLERS. 23the end of it, with this legend or inscription: hac nitimur, hanc tuemur. This florin is equal to two livresold French money, or two francs 17 cents of the new.The Dutch schilling has on one side the impressionof a ship with the Latin inscription, ita relinquenda, utaccepta, and is worth 65 centimes of the new Frenchmoney. The double sou has a field on one side withthe figure 2 and an S; and on the other the word Hollandia. The single sou has on one side a bundle ofseven arrows, with the figure 1 and S; and on the other the word Hollandia.The only copper money in Holland is the doight,eight of which go to a sou.Each of these on oneside bear the arms of the province where they werecoined, and on the other the name of it, with the dateofthe year.A General View of the Customs and Manners of the " Dutch.THE natives of the United Provinces are of good stature, and inclined to be corpulent, but they are remarkable in general for a heavy awkward mien; theirfeatures are regular and their complexions fair. Thebetter sort of people imitate the French fashions in theirdress; but those addicted to ancient habits never failto load themselves with an enormous incumbrance ofclothes. The hats of these women are nearly as largeas tea-boards, projecting forwards, and on each side soas to overshadow, both face and body; these are chieflyof straw with two broad ribbons, not tied, but pendantfrom the sides. Both men and women wear at leasttwo waistcoats, with as many coats, and the formercover their limbs with double trowsers; but the dressof the young girls is the most singular, especially atany festival or holiday.The Dutchmen, living in continual dread of inundation, is habitually frugal . His foresight is admirable,his perseverance not to be conquered, and his labours,unless seen, cannot be credited. They astonish the24 GENERAL DIRECTIONSmore, when the phlegm of his temper, and the slownessof his manners, are considered. View the minutenessof his economy, the solicitude of his precaution, andthe inflexibility of his methodical prudence; who wouldnot pronounce him incapable of great enterprize? Hebuilds himself a dwelling; it is a hut in size, it is apalace in neatness; it is necessarily situated amongdamps, and perhaps behind the banks of a sluggishcanal; yet he writes upon it Myn-genoege, mydelight;Land lust, country pleasure; Land zigt, countryprospect; or some other inscription that might characterize the Vale of Tempe, or the Garden of Eden!!!He still cuts his trees into fantastic forms, hangs hisawnings round with small bells, and decorates his Sunday jacket with dozens of little buttons. Too provident to waste his sweets, he puts a bit of sugar candyin his mouth, and drinks his tea as it melts.The Dutch are usually distinguished into five classes:the peasant and farmers, seafaring men, merchants andtradesmen; those who live upon their estates, or theinterest of their money; and military officers.The peasants are industrious, and only managed byfair language. The seafaring men are a plain, rough,and hardy race, seldom using more words than are ne- cessary about their business.ThoseThe trading people, where there is no law to restrainthem, will sometimes extort; but, in other cases, theyare the plainest and best dealers in the world.who live upon their means in great cities, resemblethe merchants and tradesmen in the modesty of theirdress and their frugal way of living. Among the gentryor nobility, though they value themselves on their rank,order and frugality in their expenses is not less remarkable, and the furniture oftheir houses is more regardedby them than keeping great tables and a fine equipage.In Holland it is always a general rule for a person tospend less than his annual income; on the other hand,living up to it will bring as much discredit upon himFOR TRAVELLERS. 25as extravagance, prodigality, and even fraud in othercountries.The following anecdote is said to be illustrative ofthe supposition, that the Dutch are generally ploddingupon the means of getting money: " two English gentlemen being in company with a Dutchman, one of theformer, not understanding the language, desired hisfriend to apologize to the Hollander for not being ableto enjoy the pleasure of his company. The Dutchman heard the translation with great composure, and thentook his pipe from his mouth, and said, it was a consolation forthe accident ofnot understanding one another," since," adds he " having no connexions or dealingsin trade together, our conversing could not possibly answer any useful purpose."The lower part of the houses in Holland is lined with white Dutch tiles, and their kitchen furniture, consisting of copper, pewter, and iron, are kept exceedingly bright. Their beds and tables are covered withthe finest linen, their rooms adorned with pictures, andtheir yards and gardens with flowers. Their rooms,in winter, are warmed with stoves, placed either underneath or round the apartments. With respect to diet,all ranks are said to be addicted to butter; and theinferior classes seldom take a journey without a but- ter-box in their pocket.The diversions of the Hollanders are bowls, billiards,chess, and tennis . Shooting wild ducks and geese inwinter, and angling in summer, make another part oftheir pastimes. In the most rigourous seasons of theyear, sledges and skates form a great diversion. Insummer, even common labourers indulge themselves inthe tea-gardens; and on a holiday, or at a fair time,in the villages may be seen peasants sitting in circlesround benches, to which children are dancing to the scraping of a French fiddler.In some of the villages in north Holland, the insidesof the houses are richly decorated; but the principal Ꭰ26 GENERAL DIRECTIONSapartments as with us are often kept for shew, whilethe owners live in kitchens and garrets . The furniturein one particular chamber is composed of silken ornaments, which by ancient prescription is bequeathedfrom father to son, and is preserved as an offering toHymen. To every house in north Holland there is adoor, elevated nearly three feet above the level of theground, and never opened but on two occasions. Whenany of the family marries, the bride and bridegroomenter the house by this door; and when either of theparties die, the corpse is carried out by the same passage. Immediately after which it is fastened up, nevermore to turn on its hinges again, till some new event ofa similar nature demands its services.To the credit of the Hollanders, it has been observedthey will never either in their societies, or in their business employ their time for a moment in gratifyingmalice, or indulging envy; but, as before observed,they will seldom step one inch out of their way, orsurrender one moment of their time to save those theydo not know from any inconvenience. A Dutchmanthrowing cheeses into a warehouse, or drawing ironalong a pathway, will not stop while a lady, or an inferior person passes, unless he sees somebody inclinedto protect them a warehouseman trundling a cask, awoman throwing water upon her windows, will leave itentirely to the passengers to take care of their limbs,or their clothes.As a Dutchman is often a miller, a merchant, a waterman, or a sailor; he always wishes to know which waythe wind blows still it is the national economy towhich we may attribute the beauty and utility of theirpublic works, that multiplicity of bridges and cause- ways, which very sensibly alleviate the burdens necessarily imposed by the government. As to the phlegmatic character of the Dutch, nothing can afford strangers a more lively picture of it, than the coolness andthe silence with which even the sailors manœuvre. YouFOR TRAVELLERS. 27may see them working their ships up to a shore, or aquay, amidst the most provoking obstacles and incumbrances without uttering a syllable!Though not so strong as that of the Swiss, the at- tachment of the Dutch to their own country is veryremarkable. The French abandon the flowery banksof the Seine or the Loire, to settle on those of the Spree or the Neva; not so the Hollander, He is never sohappy as when he is near his ships, and his canals;and when obliged to leave his country he takes with him his habitudes; and, it is thus that even Bataviamakes himforget the immense distance between him and the Texel.With respect to food, bread is not in Holland as inFrance, the principal article; a whole family here do not consume more bread than some individuals in othercountries; meal and pulse of all sorts are here the principal substitutes, as for potatoes since the late war, theyhave been grown upon the downs in various parts of Holland.The Dutch, it is said, have never adopted the Englishcustom of eating their meat half dressed; on the contrary, they make a point of preparing it so as to assistmastication and digestion. Among the salt provisionswhich the Dutch prefer, the hams of Guelderland arewell known. They also eat a great number of geeseand wild ducks; and yet fish forms the principal partof the nourishment of some families, particularly insummer, and this with potatoes and butter constitutesnearly the whole of the food of some of the poorerclasses. Beer is the principal drink; but since the introduction of tea and coffee, the consumption of it has.decreased considerably: spirituous liquors , particularlybrandy and gin, are in great request; and this practiceoriginates in a great measure from the humidity of theclimate. The Dutch it is said adopted the use of teafrom the same motives as the Chinese, namely, the consciousness of the unwholesome quality of their water.D 228 GENERAL DIRECTIONSThe drinking of tea in Holland, however is , generallyconfined to the morning; coffee is appropriated to theirafternoons. Sage tea and milk chocolate, the lattermade very weak, are very much in use as substitutes fortea and coffee. With respect to drinking healths atmeals, and out of the same vessel, this custom has longbeen banished; as for tobacco, as there are few malesthat do not use it, so in some districts it is commonlyused by the women. The seamen and fishermen chewit almost to a man; and in great towns it is as commonfor men to invite each other to smoking parties, as itis for women elsewhere to make parties at tea.But though people of the upper classes of societyare the most inclined to adopt English and Frenchfashions, the inhabitants of the maritime towns in Frieseland, preserve so much of their ancient costume thatthe women in particular are said to resemble ther ancestors of the fifth century, when they accompaniedthe Saxons in their expeditions to found colonies anda new language in Great Britain .In every thing that relates to domestic economy,the Dutch women may serve as examples to all . Fromtheir domestic habits, some of these have obtained theepithet of Blokster. Their whole enjoyment is said toconcentre in the interior of their houses. Celibacyalso is less frequent in Holland than in any other country; but the marriage ceremonies vary considerably indifferent towns and even in different villages. Afterthe publication of the banns, the families of the partiesbegin to visit each other, and the party betrothedmakes them presents of bottles of spiced wine or hypo- cras. These they humourously call tears. When themarriage day arrives, the young people strew the paths of the new married couple with flowers. The Dutchpoets almost always distinguish themselves on theseoccasions; and it is customary for husbands when ineasy circ*mstances to collect and print these congratulatory verses, with handsome vignettes, &c .FOR TRAVELLERS. 29Another festival generally takes place at the expiration of the first twenty-five years, which is repeated atthe expiration of the same period a second time.Births in Holland are generally announced in thenewspapers; but local customs vary much in this respect; for at Harlem and Enkhuysen, when a womanis confined, a little plate covered with a piece of rose coloured silk decorated with lace is attached to thedoor; and during this period no creditor, nor even anofficer of justice is permitted to interrupt the husband on any account whatever.For theatrical amusem*nts there are very few placeswhere any performances of this kind are exhibitedregularly all the year round; these are confined toAmsterdam and the Hague. Leyden has a theatre;but it is only played in now and then. At Rotterdam,also on account of some religious scruple, no theatrehas ever been suffered to be opened within the walls;of course, the one there is without the gates. Severalplaces on account of these prohibitions have nevertheless their private companies of dramatic amateurs. Asa winter amusem*nt, skaiting is undoubtedly carried togreater perfection here, than in any other part of theworld. Every female in the country can skait. Thirtypersons at a time holding hands, often dart by you on the ice with the quickness of lightning. Others sit ina sledge, which is pushed along the ice by a skaiter.Besides these there are vessels fifteen feet long, theirbottoms covered with broad plates of iron. Their courseis accelerated by the assistance of masts and sails. The velocity of their progress is certainly inconceivable to a stranger, being seldom less than twelve miles anhour. In summer time sailing matches are not unfrequent.In cases of death, public messengers clothed inblack with crape on their hats, are sent to inform the relatives and friends of the deceased. One of thesealways attends the funeral as a master ofthe ceremonies .As to interments, as the inconvenience of burying in D 330 GENERAL DIRECTIONSchurches, has been generally acknowledged, the practice of interring the dead out of town, has been adoptedin Holland, as well as in many other parts of the con- tinent.Though all religions including Jews and Catholicsare known to have been equally tolerated in Hollandfor a considerable time past, another sect is describedas having lately sprung up under M. Canzius, the object of which is to unite all. Hence it is not uncommonto see collected in their temple, Calvinists, Lutherans,Anabaptists, &c. This society admits of no predominating or exclusive system. They have no priests, butonly two speakers who stand near the altar to delivertheir discourses. The service is divided into that ofworship and instruction . The first has for its objectthe demonstration of the greatness of God, and theadmirable order of nature. They assemble for thispurpose every Sunday at six in the evening. The worship which is confined to instruction takes place once afortnight, on a Tuesday evening, when the doctrines.of revealed religion are discussed . Six times in theyearthey assemble to receive the sacrament; but duringprayer, and the pronunciation of the blessing, everyperson present is prostrate.

DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLERS IN GERMANY.THE posts in Germany are generally upon a very goodfooting. In many parts they belong to the sovereign ofthe country. The Princes of Tour and Taxis, were for agreat number of years general proprietors . And so much have the roads improved that in many places,stones much after the English manner, very distinctlymark the distances from one place to another. It ismuch to be regretted that this practice is not generallyadopted, particularly in Saxony, and the north of Germany. At present the conveniences for travelling aremuch superior in the south than elsewhere; when hereyou may go from Francfort and Nuremberg to Vienna';FOR TRAVELLERS. 31from Vienna to Switzerland or to Italy in every possibledirection, without encountering bad roads, or bad posthouses. Among all the causeways of Germany, thoseof Bavaria, Fuldasand, the Palatinate between Manheim, Schwetzingen, Oggersheim, &c . merit the firstrauk, to which may be added those from Meiningen toWurtzburg. You may travel these excellent roadsfor days together without meeting with the least uneveness, and even without feeling the least jolting ofthe carriage. Wurtzburg and Wirtemberg, also haveexcellent cause-ways; in the countries belonging toAustria, the roads dreadfully broken up in the courseof the late war are again in a state of repair. In Bavaria, and in Austria, the bridges are not constructedof hewn stone as in Hanover, but simply of timber,the planks over which are often so far asunder as toshew the rapid current running beneath them. One ofthe most agreeable of all the high roads in Germany isthe Bergstrass, or route through the mountains whichcommences just beyond Darmstadt. Properly speakinghere are two roads, the upper running close to the footof the hills, and the other at some distance quite inthe plain. The upper is the pleasantest; but the whole.country hereabout has the appearance of a garden aslarge as it is fertile . Joseph II . compared the spot tosome of the finest in Italy. The post waggons whichgo and come at a regular time appointed are mostlyopen at the top, though in Prussia, Hesse, Cobourg,Austria, and Wirtemberg, they now generally use covered carriages; none however are equal to the diligences, &c. used in England and France. As muchmay be said now of the coaches that run betweenseveral of the great towns and cities of Germany whichare all covered. These coaches now travel by night aswell as by day, and have their relays of horses at different inus. At Vienna, they even bear the names ofDiligences or Post-coaches; in the other German statesthey are called Landkutche, these vehicles carry eightpassengers, six in the inside and two on the outside,"half the charge must be paid when passengers take32 GENERAL DIRECTIONStheir places, and which is forfeited if the person altershis mind; children in arms are charged only one-fifth,and children that can sit between two adults only afourth. The Diligences at Vienna travel to Italy, andeven to Temeswar; there are others that go to Gratz,to Moravia, Saxony and Bohemia. From Prague likewise coaches set out and return every week to Vienna,to Brunn, to Silesia, Dresden, and other parts of theempire, and during the watering season to Carlsbad.In fact these Messageries or Lankutches perform acourse of more than 100 German miles, commonly atthe rate of about eight of them per day; but the latternever change horses, and postillions are not allowed tohlow horns. At Leipsic, Diligences may be had almostevery day for any part of the empire. At Francfort onthe Maine, two coaches have been established after theEnglish manner to carry six persons every day to Strasbourg and Bale; the first goes every day and the secondfour times a week: the price of places are thirtykreutzers per mile, including the use of a night gown.In the Diligences of Ratisbon and Augsbourg, peoplemay travel all over the German empire. It is to be remarked that in Germany every postillion expects tobe called by the name of Schwager, or brother-in-law.The Diligence of Darmstadt carrying six persons, andwhich duringthe fair at Francfort on the Maine, goesbackward and forward every day, is one of the bestcoaches in Germany; but as this country is composedof a prodigious number of states , the management of theposts must consequently differ in their price, thoughalmost in every country, particularly Hesse, Hanover,Saxony, and various parts of the empire, the chargesare fixed by authority. In the empire the post is paidin current specie, but in the other parts of Germanymoney of account; as for extra charges Frais dugrassage, money for greasing the wheels, particularlyin Holstein where a carriage cannot depart withoutpaying three shillings for this accommodation, or another custom in Mecklenburg, where a mark is de- manded for what is called expedition money, or theFOR TRAVELLERS. 33custom at Lubeck, where, when you alight at an inn,you cannot have the privilege of carrying in yourown portmanteau, &c. but must of course employ aporter, called a Litzenbruder, who, if he has onlyone step to make, will charge you twelve schillings;it is just the same with what is called the Wagenmeister, even at Hamburgh, who always charges youa marck for procuring you horses. These are all ancient customs, and have almost the force of law. Thebest travelling carriages in the north of Germany,are what are called Kurwagen, particularly in Holstein; but neither in any of the states of the Kingof Denmark, in Lunenburgh, or in Hanover, is thereany extra charge for travelling post.As to travelling by water, this is wonderfully facilitated by the large rivers in Germany. Upon manyof these, there is what is called a Marktschiff, whichgoes from place to place, at stated times. Upon theDanube, and upon the Rhine, these vessels are ofconsiderable length and burden for the purpose oftransporting passengers with their goods, baggage, &c.The boats called Dielen Schiff, are a species of theskiff; they go daily from Cologne to Coblentz, and vice versa. In fact, vessels of various descriptions,since the peace, ply regularly every day. Personswho make use of passports to enter the Austrian territory, should be extremely careful to have themsigned by the Imperial resident in the country theycome from , in these passports the persons, if any, who accompany the bearer ofthem, must be included. InBavaria too, the passports of foreigners have undergone the most rigorous scrutiny, but which the returnof peace will probably render unnecessary.But whether travelling by land or water, the gratuity of drink gelt, or something for the driver, &c. todrink, is always expected, and as it is the interest ofthe traveller to secure the good will of these sort ofpeople, a few pence more than their stated fares willnever be misapplied.34 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.After all that, travelling in Germany is nothing likeso pleasant or expeditious as it is in England, is clear,from an ingenious journalist's remarks upon the neatness and expedition of our drivers and carriages.Having once set out upon your journey in England, heobserves, contrasting this country with Germany, " youhave no cords that break; no springs that snap; nodispute about turning out of the road-way for others;no halting before the beer or brandy houses; no postillion who gets down and leaves you. On thecontrary, you constantly keep much the same pace,and you are at least sure of going five or six English miles an hour."The drivers in Germany are all bribed by the innkeepers; and either by affecting to misunderstandyou or otherwise, will constantly stop at the doorwhere they are best paid. It is the smallest grievancethat this money is extorted from you again in yourbill; the evil is, that the worst inns bribe the highest;and a traveller, unless he exactly remembers his directions, is liable to be lodged in the vilest rooms of acountry, where the best hotels have no accommodations equal to a very indifferent inn in England .When you are within the inn, the landlord, who iseager to keep though not to accommodate you, willaffirm that his is the inn you ask for, or that the othersign is not in the place. And fear of worse accommodations is apt to make a traveller unwilling to giveup one lodging, lest he should not find another.The only way of travelling comfortably throughGermany, is to purchase a chaise of your own, and tohire post horses. The stages, or post waggons, asthey are called, are very heavy, and consequently slow, and are disagreeable, in every respect. Butthere is an advantage in travelling here; you need beunder no apprehension of highwaymen, as the roadsare perfectly free from robbers.Travelling is cheaper in Germany than in France;for though you pay half a rix-dollar, or about oneFOR TRAVELLERS. 35shilling and nine pence per horse, for every stage, thestages are as long again as those in France. In Franconia, Suabia, and mostly in the neighbourhood ofthe Rhine, it is a florin, or about two shillings andfour- pence per horse; and the postillion expects thirty kreutzers.It may be as well to inform the English traveller,that he must be content to travel the pace of his postilion; for neither threats or promises will induce himto quicken it; he will indeed smoke his pipe the fasterfor your remonstrances, but his horses will still go on at the same slow pace.Almost every town in Germany has a coin of itsown, mostly of silver, but with such an alloy of copperas renders it of little value beyond their own limits; itwill therefore be well to keep no more of these inferior coins than is absolutely necessary. The followingis a table of the principal of them, with their value inEnglish money:Cologne, Mentz, Munich, Munster.3 Stivers a plapert4 Plaperts a copstuck .34Copstucks a guilder..2 Guilders a dollar ……….2 Dollars a ducat..........Frankfort, Passau Augsburg, Vienna, &c.4 Krnetzers, a fraction less than ...6 Kruetzers a gould, or guilder..90 Kruetzers a rix-dollar....2 Goulds a dollar……….2 Dollars a ducat..s. d. 692492848422 46623308 49 4Berlin, &c.2 Groshen, a fraction less than........30 Groshens the florin.....0 11 236 GENERAL DIRECTIONS90 Groshens a rix- dollar ...639 S. d.3 618 Florins a ducat ... 4In all these countries the rix-dollar is imaginary, butis generally made use of by the Germans in keeping their accounts.On setting off for the Continent, the best way is tofurnish yourself with bills of exchange.The Abbé Chappe says, a German mile contains3804 French toises, the English mile only 804 Frenchtoises; consequently a German mile is somewhat morethan four English miles and an half.Language. -Two languages, properly speaking, arecommon in Germany, which are divided into twoidioms, viz. into High and Low German, or the Sclavonic, spoken in the interior of Austria, in Bohemia,Moravia, Lusatia, Brandenburg, and a part of theDuchy of Lunenburg. The Low German is the dialect in which the ancient German is best preserved;the dialect of the Rhine is a variation from Low Germau, as the dialects of the Danube, Swabia, Bavaria,Austria, &c. are variations from the High German.By the cession of the Low Countries, Germany lostthe Walloon and French tongues. It is only of latethat the Germans have paid a proper respect to theirown language. The Saxon idiom is reputed the bestand the most refined . Many excellent works havebeen written on the subject; but, like all other livinglanguages, the German grammarians entertain verydifferent sentiments relative to its principles and rules.The practice of modifying the names oftowns, so asto incorporate them separately with every language, isno where more remarkable than with respect to thoseof Germany, where a stranger, unless he is aware ofthem, might find the variations very inconvenient. TheGerman name for what we call Mentz, is Maynz; theFrench, which is most used, is Mayence; and the ItaMan, Magontio, by descent from the Roman Magontiacum. The German synonym for Liege is Luttich;2FOR TRAVELLERS. 37for Aix la Chapelle, Achen; for Bois le Duc,Herzogenbusch; and for Cologne Colne, which is pronouncedKeln.Manufactures and Productions of Germany.-Flaxand hemp are grown in great abundance; the best flax inGermany is in Westphalia, Silesia, Bohemia, Swabia,Saxony and Franconia, and it is now spun to such adegree of perfection as to make 143 sorts of thread.One single pound of flax spun for lace may amount to7000 florins. The finest spinning is certainly to he found in the mountains of Silesia; and in Westphalia,in the environs of Bielefeld,Suttersloke, and Rettberg;and in the Bohemian villages of Starkenbach, andBrauna, near Hohenelbe. In 1804 a piece of cloth was manufactured there for his Royal Highness the ArchDuke Charles, whereof each ell was worth 30 florins.Lace-making was begun in Germany in 1561, by a female named Barba Uttman; and this manufacture atpresent employs 27,000 individuals in the ErzgebergeMountains of Saxony alone. Silesia, in 1801,exportedcloth to the amount of 11 millions of rix dollars. Thebest wines of Germany are those of the Rhine, Franconia, and some parts of Swabia and Austria. By thewar of the revolution Austria lost the wines of the Moselle, Niersteen, and Bacharach. For more than a hundred years past silk has been successfully cultivated inthe Palatinate, in the Tyrol, Saxony, Baden, and Brandeborg. Beer and hops are important articles in Bohemia and Bavaria; the best of which is brewed atthe latter place and at Brunswick.Tobacco discovered by a Spanish hermit, Roman Paine, and who wasleft by Columbus at Domingo in 1496, and cultivatedin Germany about 1560, has lately increased to such adegree, being favoured by the troubles in North America, that tobacco reared in Germany is now carried to.that country. The Dutch, in 1778, sent no less than30,000 quintals there. The tobacco of Nuremberg,Hanau, Offenbach, Manheim, and Uckermarck, passesfor the best, very nearly equalling Virginia in its quaE38 GENERAL DIRECTIONSEity. The culture of endive and the great red beet, the first as a substitute for coffee, and the other for sugar,had made some progress during The the late war. floats of timber on the Rhine down to Holland are becoming very considerable. Bohemia and Bamberg produce licorice, and a juice made of this plant calledreglisse. Geese smoked, or smoke dried, are exported in great quantities from Pomerania; to which may beadded the pheasants and capons from Bohemia andStyria, and larks from Leipsic and Thuringia. The whole of Germany affords large quantities of wax andhoney. Hanover alone produces annually 300,000 lbs.of wax.In a word, to form a just estimate of the d fferencebetween travelling on the Continent and travelling inEngland, it is only neceesary to hear what a foreignersays upon the latter: " In England there is no demand made for greasing the wheels; nothing for bringing your things to the coach, &c. You may, if youplease, give a few pence to the helper. In a word,they know nothing in England of the many ways prac- Once tised upon the Continent to fleece traveller .set off, you have no rotten ropes; no broken axletrees; no disputes upon the road, as to which way youmust turn; no stopping before the doors of beer orbrandy houses; no postilions that leave their vehicles;but once set out, you are sure to proceed, and it is rareindeed if you travel less than five or six Englishmiles an hour."HOLLAND.THE Seventeen Provinces, which are known by thename of Netherlands, including the Seven United Provinces of Holland, were formerly part of Gallia Belgica; but at length obtained the general name of Netherlands, Pais Bas, or Low Countries, perhaps fromtheir situation in respect to Germany.Of the Seven Provinces, the principal is that of Holland, It is situated between 90 or 100 miles eastFOR TRAVELLERS. 39of England. They are bounded by the German Seaonthe north, by Germany on the east, by Lorraine andFrance on the south, and bythe British Channel onthe west. The United Provinces, properly speaking,consist of the provinces of Holland, Zealand, Friezeland, Groninguen, Overyssel, Guelderland, andUtrecht. They are bounded by the German Oceanon the north and west, by Westphalia on the east, andby Flanders, Brabant, and Cleves, on the south, lyingbetween 51 and 54 degrees of north latitude, and3 and 7 degrees of east longitude; containing10,000 square miles, with an extent of 150 miles inlength, and about as many broad, including the Zuyder Sea.The United Provinces have undergone several material changes since they threw off their allegiance toSpain, in the reign of our Queen Elizabeth; but theyseem to have declined more rapidly since the Stadtholdership was made hereditary in the male and female representatives of the family of Orange; an officewhich in a manner superseded the constitution previously established. This occurred in the year 1747.In 1787, in consequence of a disagreement between thepeople and the late Stadtholder, the latter called inthe Prussian armies to his assistance, and the popularparty was crushed.. Under this prince the Dutch navyhad dwindled to such a degree, that the nation had no longer any influence as a maritime power. When thewar of the French revolution had continued for sometime, the people not coming forward to support theprince, he was compelled to fly to England, to avoidfalling into the hands of the French. This took placeon the 19th ofJanuary, 1795, when he embarked fromScheveling, near the Hague, in an open boat, with avery small equipage, and happily arrived safe at Har- wich with his treasures.His son, the present Stadtholder, equally fortunate with Louis XVIII. of France, being a refugee in thiscountry in November 1813, when success had crowned E 240 GENERAL DIRECTIONSthe arms of the allies, had the happiness of returningto his own country under British protection; wherehe now reigns as Sovereign Prince of the Netherlands,in the daily expectation of having a very considerableaccession of territory ceded to him out of the LowCountries, by the decisions of the Congress now sitting at Vienna.Some writers have thought that Holland is derivedfrom the German name Holt Land, which signifies awoody country, such as this was formerly, before theinundations of the sea subjected it to so many changes.It is commonly observed, that the soil of Holland isso low and flat, that the traveller sees neither hill normountain, excepting what are called the Sand Hills,sometimes a barrier against the sea. Towards the endof October or November, the country begins to beoverspread with water, owing to the continual rainsand the violence of the winds and storms; so that inseveral places there is nothing to be seen but dikes,steeples, and houses, which appear as if they stood in the sea.In the beginning of February, unless frost preventsit, they begin to drain the country, by a method whichcarries all the water into the great canals. The totalwant of arable land is made up by a great number ofrich meadows, particularly what are called Polders,which feed a vast number of cattle. Hence their butterand cheese has been an object of exportation to a con- siderable amount. The want of wood in Hollandseems to have been compensated with a kind of peatearth, or turf, which, after being dug out, and exposedto the sun, grows hard, and is cut into square pieces.The air is pretty temperate, though cold prevails morethan heat; and the weather is so variable, even in summer, that it is always necessary to be well clad. Thelakes and canals abound with fish, and the fens withfowl. Holland, though it has neither corn nor wine of its own growth, possesses as much of those commodities as any place in the world. Their corn is sold byFOR TRAVELLERS. 41the last, containing an hundred and three of theirshepels, or ten quarters English. Tobacco, flax, andhemp, with some plants for dyeing, are also producedin great plenty here: the rest of the soil consists ofheaths and commons, upon which a number of smallhorses are bred. In fine, owing to the paucity of theirown productions, the Dutch say their forests are inNorway; their vineyards upon the borders ofthe Rhineand the Garonne; their corn-fields in Prussia and Pomerania; and their gardens in India and Arabia. Butsuch is the industry of the Hollanders, that though outof 1928 square leagues, 303 are generally inundatedwith water, their population is still near two millions;the province of Holland alone containing one half ofthis number. M. Valckenaer has calculated 1380 inhabitants for each square league. One-third of thispopulation subsists upon commerce and navigation, andthe remainder are composed of persons occupied inbreeding of cattle, and in the sale of their produce.

THETRAVELLER'SCONTINENTAL GUIDE.CHAP. I.The Rout from Harwich, by Helveotsluys to Amsterdam.From Harwich to Helveotsluys (generally about)... Helveotsluys to the Brill ... The Brill to Rotterdam Rotterdam to Dort ....... Rotterdam to Delft Delft to the Hague.Delft to LeydenLeyden to Harlem Harlem to Amsterdam .Rotterdam to Breda.83Miles. Hours.24 5 112126 14241226 6THEpleasantness of the journey, from Londonto Harwich, being generally known, it may beonly necessary to remind the reader that this seaport in Essex is 72 miles from London; and thaton account of its excellent harbour, and proximity to the Dutch coast, particularly to Helveotsluys, it is the only port in Essex from whencepackets regularly sail for Holland. The entranceinto the harbour is defended by Landguard Fort,44 THE TRAVELLER'S CONTINENTAL GUIDE.built on a sandy point on the Suffolk side of thewater.Persons who do not choose to take post- chaise,may every day be accommodated with a Harwichcoach, which sets out at seven in the eveningfrom the Spread Eagle, in Gracechurch Street;and on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings, at nine. Goods or luggage, not convenientto send by the coaches, may be transmitted toHarwich either by water or land, a vessel sailingevery week for that purpose, from Wheeler andHarrison's wharf. Waggons go from the King'sArms, and from the Bull, in Gracechurch Street;and from the Ipswich Arms, in Cullum Street,four times in the week.Gentlemen, if they require it, may take theircarriages on board the Harwich packets: freightsfor each carriage, to Holland, 61. 6s. 6d. Cuxhaven, 121. 12s. Gottenburgh, 151. 15s. Inaddition to the above, there is a charge of2s. perton for tonnage demanded at the Custom-house.Application for passports may be made toAnthony Cox, Esq. agent. Passports are nolonger absolutely indispensable for going to Holland; but they may nevertheless save the travellersome trouble and expense.There are twelve packets stationed at Harwich;they sail regularly twice a week, wind and weather permitting. The following are the charges,the captain in each instance furnishing provisionsfor the voyage To Helveotsluys, 21. 14s. 6d.Cuxhaven, 71, 9s.- Gottenburgh, 141. 5s. 6d.Helveotslays is a strong place, and contains adock and a magazine. This port is the rendezvous of numbers of travellers going and comingto England.It is situated in the Island of Voorn, in theTHE TRAVELLER'S CONTINENTAL GUIDE. 45Province of Holland; is surrounded with a wetfosse and a strong rampart, faced with brick, asmuch to guard against the irruption ofthe waves,as ofan enemy. The harbour, which seems wonderfully safe, runs through the middle of thetown, and projects, by the help of piers, aboutfifty yards into the main ocean. The water at thepier-head is ninety feet deep; the piles are onehundred and forty feet long, and are driven thirtyfive feet into the shore; the interstices are filledwith bavins, which are kept down with largestones, brought from Norway.On each side of the harbour is a spacious quay,laid with Dutch clinkers; beyond which is afaçade of houses most whimsically pretty; the window shutters are painted with yellow or green,and there is a painted bench at every door. Thehouses are built in a Gothic style, with narrowfronts, running up to a point, by which meansthe gable end destroys the attic story.The harbour runs through the town to a largebasin, separated from it by a pair of flood-gates,over which is thrown a swing-bridge of curious mechanism. { - ༔Helveotsluys, it is justly observed, in Tronchet's Picture of Paris, p. 26, would be esteemeda wonderfully neat town in any other country butHolland. The houses seem all newly painted,and the streets and quays just swept and washed.From this town to the Brill, a distance of sevenEnglish miles, the usual conveyance to thosewho choose to go by land, is a waggon.

1Twenty or twenty- four hours are seldom exceeded in the passage over from Harwich to theDutch coast; and the first object looked for by the seamen, is the low spread and barren coastof Goree, or rather the lofty tower of its church,46 THE TRAVELLER'S CONTINENTAL GUIDe.which, though several miles from the shore, isfrequently the first object seen. Helveotsluysnext appears with the masts of vessels rising aboveits low roof, amidst green embankments and pastures; a prospect very frequent in Holland.Here, however, what is called the Sluice, Dam,or Dyke, is also the harbour, filled at the entrance to the depth of more than eighty feet ofwater.Upon the banks of this Sluice, partly raised byart, the town is built; inhabited chiefly by tradesmen and innkeepers. The dock-yard bounds theSluice; and the town, and a small pivot bridge,connects the two sides ofthe street.On the arrival of an English packet, especiallysince the conclusion of the late war, a greatnumber of the inhabitants are collected as spectators. The Dutch seamen every-where retainthe national dress; but the common town's-people only differ from Englishmen in appearance,chiefly by wearing coarser clothes, and by bringing their pipes with them into the street. Thewomen, with their baskets of herbs, &c. presenta striking appearance to a stranger, from thecirc*mstance of wearing hats of the size of asmall umbrella; close white jackets; short coloured petticoats, in the shape of a diving- bell;yellow slippers without quarters, and caps exactlyfitting the head and concealing the hair.Even at the English inn at Helveotsluys, thefurniture will be found to be mostly Dutch, especially in the almost unvarying fashion all throughHolland, of having beds let into the wainscot,like cribs in a ship: thus it seems, that a strangercan scarcely ever be admitted into a room at aninn which has not a bed in it. The packet boat1314 15raRUGriefswaldeCumpheroStevenhagenPeene R.MEAKriedland R AINeu Brandenburg NPenzlin WoldeckStettinStrelifFurstenburནKustrinD E NO B U R GBERLIN13 14dolfort5354COOPER SCULP

THE TRAVELLER'S CONTINENTAL GUIDE. 47inn, kept by Madam Normand, is mostly frequented bythe French. From Helveotsluys toRotterdam, the usual rout is by the Brill, whichis five miles from Helveotsluys.The BRILL is a neat fortified town, with canalsin the streets, which are mostly planted with trees.From the Brill, at low water, Schuyts, or passageboats, may be had to Rotterdam, which they reach,with a fair wind, in less than three hours. Thecharge is moderate.The waggons which convey you from Helveotsluys, differ only from an English cart in beingsomewhat slighter, and by having the cover painted with different colours; it is drawn by a pairof horses, and guided by the boor, who sits in the head of it. To this machine there are noshafts, but a piece of wood, like a bugle horn,comes from the axle, with an iron hook, intowhich the driver puts one foot, and with it guidesthe carriage to a hair's breadth; the other he clapson the posteriors of one of his horses.The Brill is larger than Helveot, and is tolerably fortified; the buildings are old but regular;the streets are spacious, and some of them linedwith trees. The town is situated on the mouthofthe Meas, which is a mile and a halfwide, Allthe vessels that go to Rotterdam pass by thisplace: and here is a boat for passengers, whichsails every tide to Rotterdam.The Brill in 1572, was the cradle of Dutchliberty, as the Gueur (or beggars) as they werethen called under the Count de la Marck, seizedupon that place: this gave encouragement tootherDutchtowns to rise, particularly Amsterdamand Schoonhoven, and take the oaths of allegiance to the Prince of Orange. The Brill also48 THE TRAVELLER'S CONTINENTAL GUIDE.gave birth to the celebrated Admiral Van Tromp.Most ofthe inhabitants are fishermen, and othersare pilots for vessels from the North Seas goingup the Maese.From the Brill to ROTTERDAM is twelve miles;the latter city is of a triangular form, and is situate on the north side of the Maese, fifteen milesfrom the sea. Travelling by the way of theMaeseland Sluice, owing to the excellent regulations for accommodating strangers, there is not somuch occasion for suspicion and apprehensionabout the safety of goods and parcels as at Amsterdam and other large places. And as the mailsfrom England statedly arrive three times in theweek, a Rotterdam skipper always plies to takepeople in carriages across the Island of Voorn,upon which Helveotsluys stands, to his schuytmoored in the Maese, from whence he proceedsto Rotterdam. The whole carriage, which ishere called a covered waggon, may be engaged for about two ducats. An indifferent road here leadsthrough some meadows and corn fields, affordingthe prospect of a complete level to the horizon,the spires of distant villages, and a wind- millor two excepted. The neat farm- houses here aregenerally shaded by clusters of trees, and enclosed, together with their gardens and orchards, ina perfect green fence. The fields are separatedfrom each other like our own, near the marshesand fens, by deep ditches filled with water, overwhichsmall bridges are laid, which maybe openedin the middle by a kind of trap -door raised andlocked to a post to prevent the obtrusion ofstrangers.Upon this road it is not unusual to pass waggons filled with large brass jugs as bright as gold,covered with a wooden stopper, and bringingTHE TRAVELLER'S CONTINENTAL GUIDE. 49milk from the field . Here on holidays may beseen the peasants dancing to a French fiddler, thewomen wearing large hats set up in the air likea spread fan, lined with damask or flowered linen.Most have necklaces, ear-rings, and ornamentalclasps for the temples, of solid gold.:In sailing up the Maese, enlivened with vesselsofall countries passing to and from Rotterdam,may be seen the huge Archangelman, the lighterAmerican, the smart swift Englishman, and thebulky Dutchman upon a noble surface of waterequal to any part of the Thames. Small tradingschuyts as stout and as round as their masters,may also be seen gliding with their crews, reposing under their deep Orange sails. To theleft is the little town of Flaarding known for thenumber of its fishing boats; and Schiedam, alarge port on the Merwe, six miles W. S. W. ofRotterdam, is noted for its Geneva. It has beenobserved, "there are Dutch villages scarcely.marked in a map, which exceed in size some ofthe county towns in England!" Maesland Sluice,a place opposite to the Brill, is one of them.Rotterdam, however, is the second city in size,and perhaps the first for beauty in the UnitedProvinces. The Exchange, the Town House,the principal Church, and the buildings belongingto the ci-devant East India Company, with the tombs of the two Admirals de Witt and Brakel,and the statue of Erasmus, are among the principal objects of curiosity. The English Church,the Council House, and the National Theatre,are however worthy of notice. The largestvessels here can come up into the middle ofthecity.JTThe market-place has only one wide access;F·50 THE TRAVELLER'S CONTINENTAL GUIDE.the Exchange is a plain stone building, ofa moderndate. The merchants assemble here every dayat two o'clock. The Dutch shops, in this city,are in appearance more than fifty years behindthe English, in their architecture, with small highwindows, and blocks between them and the street;silversmiths and others expose their goods insmall glass cases upon these blocks; and almostevery tenth house displays the inscription ofAs an Tabak de koop, "Tobacco to be sold.'instance of the accuracy with which business isconducted, even in hiring a schuyt, at about apenny a mile, a formal printed receipt, or ticket,is given by a commissary, solely occupied in regulating the business of the treckschuyts at his gateofthe city.In several of the fish-markets in Holland,storks may be seen parading about in perfect security, ofwhich they seem to be satisfied, and arethere regaled by the offal offish. The prejudicesof the Dutch have consecrated these birds, onaccount of their being considered as the safeguardsof republican liberty. The Dutch frequentlyerect frames of wood on the tops of their houses,to encourage these favourite birds to build there,which to strangers appear extremely singular.The statue of Erasmus stands upon an archcrossing a canal, leading to the market, and isnearly ten feet high; it was erected in 1622, byHenry d'Keiser, a celebrated statuary, and is saidto be his chef d'oeuvre. It is a bronze figure cladin an eclesiastical habit, with an open book inhishand. Few writers have better merited their reputationthen Erasmus. He was a philosopher ataperiod when public writers were generally merepedants. To Erasmus we owe the progress thatTHE TRAVELLER'S CONTINENTAL GUIDE. 51was made in introducing the enlightened age ofCharles V., Francis I., and Leo X., to whichwe are indebted for the recovery of good taste.Erasmus's Praise of Folly, and his Colloquies,are the best known of his writings: the first is asatire upon men, of all conditions in life, especially the Clergy, from the simple Monk to theSovereign Pontiff. His Colloquies are as muchesteemed for their latinity as for their attic saltand the pleasantry that pervades the whole.The first part of Rotterdam, seen from theMaese, is the Boom Quay, or the Quay coveredwith trees. This is the grandest, as well as mostagreeable street in Rotterdam; it lies parallelwith the Maese; on one side it is open to the river,and the other is ornamented with a grand façadeof the best houses in the city, which used to beinhabited chiefly by the English; they are five orsix stories high, massy and very clumsy; whereverthere is any attempt at ornament, it is the worst that can be conceived. One sees no Grecianarchitecture, exceptDoric entablatures, stuck uponthe top of the upper story, without pilasters;Ionic volutes, turned often the wrong way, andan attempt at Corinthian capitals, without anyother part of the order. The doors are large,and upon which great knobs and clumsy carvingis intended for ornament. You ascend to them,not infront, butby three or four steps going uponeach side, and you are assisted by iron rails of amost immense thickness: these houses are almostall window, and the window shutters and framesbeing painted green, give the glass, which isincreased by the reflection from the trees thatover-shadow their houses, a deep tinge, and whichbutfor these would be intolerably hot. Most oftheF 252 SPIEL HOUSES AT ROTTERDAMhouses have looking- glasses placed on the outsidesof the windows, on both sides, in order that theymay see every thing which passes up and downthe street. The stair-cases are narrow, steep,and come down almost to the door. In general,the houses rise with enormous steep roofs, turningthe gable end to the street, and leaning considerably forward, so that the top often projects neartwo feet beyond the perpendicular. The BoomQuay is so broad, that there are distinct walksfor carriages and foot passengers, lined and shaded with a double row of trees

The reason why Rotterdam has more Englishinhabitants than any other place in Holland, isbecause vessels can generally load and unloadbefore they can get clear from Amsterdam andthe Texel; and consequently merchants can getmore and quicker returns. Hence too the Englishmerchants find it cheaper and more commodious,after their goods have arrived at Rotterdam, tosend them in boats through the canals to Amsterdam. Another advantage to commerce here is,that the Maese is open, and the passage free fromice much sooner in the spring than in the riverY and the Zuyder Sea, the common passage toAmsterdam. }The celebrated Spiel houses in Holland arethus described by Sir John Carr:-"In a street(in Rotterdam) in an inferior quarter of the town,the sound of fiddles and dancing announced theapproach to one of these houses; presently myguide stopped before one of them, into the saloonofwhich he introduced me by pulling aside a curtain drawn before a door, near which, in a littleraised orchestra, two fiddlers were scraping: uponbenches at the other end of the room were sevenSPIEL HOUSES AT ROTTERDAM. 53or eight females, painted and dressed in all theirfinery with large silver buckles, loose muslinrobes, massy gilt ear-rings, and ornaments of thesame metal round their heads. Most of themlooked very jaded. As soon at I entered, a bottleof wine and glasses, pipes and tobacco, were putbefore me, for which I paid a florin, which is considered as the premium ofadmission."These miserable wretches were all prostitutes,and through their former misconduct, prisoners confined to this haunt of vice, and never sufferedto pass its threshold, until enabled, out of thewages ofprostitution, to redeem themselves.One of them approached me; the affectedgaiety of her deportment, so entirely discordantwith the genuine feelings of a mind exposed toscenes of such humiliating profligacy, was in nolittle degree distressing: but I observed she drankthe wine I gave her with a heavy heart; and somemoney I presented her with excited expressionsof gratitude, but no emotions of delight, fromwhich I concluded that she was merely the channelthrough which my present would pass to herbrutal goaler, an apprehension which was confirmed to me upon my quitting this scene ofcomplicated wretchedness."The Dutchare sofamiliarized to these scenes,that parents frequently carry their children tothem, not from the hope of preserving them fromvicious propensities by placing before their eyesthe nauseous and frightful images of sufferingprofligacy, for such ideas never enter the soberbrains of such visitors; they go to spend an hourwhich is to them mirthful. The poor wretches Ihave mentioned, augment the pleasures of thescene by the gaudiness of their finery, and the

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54 PAINTINGS AT ROTTERDAM.company add to its vivacity. In the beauty ofits plumage, they forget the dying bird.""There is not a very numerous collection ofpaintings at Rotterdam, but a very select one.The antipathy of the Dutch to any thing that isnot of native growth, prevents any Italian orVenetian productions being seen, unless in oneor two private cabinets.The finest private cabinet is that of M. Vanderpal, a wealthy and respectable merchant.It is principally enriched bythe works of NicholasBerchem and Linglebach.M. Vanderput, another rich merchant, has alarge and judiciously selected collection ofDutchand Flemish paintings. M. Lockhorst has a fineassortment of pictures of the same description,and their possessors are never known to refuse asight ofthem to respectable strangers.M. Severs, at Rotterdam, has a library, a cabinet of antiques; a most superb collection ofpaintings, and among them the original drawingsof the gallery of Luxembourg, by M. Rubens.The Kermes, or the fair of Rotterdam, passes forone of the gayest in Holland. The number ofJews here is very great, and many of them arehighly respectable.At the top of the Boom Quay, at Rotterdam,is one of the Heads, or entrances by water intothe city, through which the greater part of itsnumerous canals receive their supplies.1The post-coach from Rotterdam to Antwerp,and vice versa, goes every day. The route isfixed from Rotterdam, through Cattendrecht,called the Tolhuis; and through Numansdorp orButtersluis to Williamstadt and Bergen- Op- Zoomto Antwerp. The charge to each passenger isnine florins, twelve sous, including fifteen poundsNECESSARY CAUTIONS, REGULATIONS, &c. 55weight ofbaggage. It is always necessary to takea place at the coach-office, on the preceding evening, before nine o'clock. For an extra price,carriages however may be hired any time of theday, and the post- coach may be taken for only apart ofthe way.Inns.-The Swine's Hoofd (Boar's Head), wherethere is a table d'hote, or ordinary, at a moderatecharge; and the Mareschal de Turenne, kept byMr. Crabb, an Englishman, extremely attentiveto foreigners, particularly those of his owncountry; his charges are moderate, and hisaccommodations good.Manufactures, Trade, and Commerce. - The distilleries in and near this city, for Hollands, arevery large. Here are also white- lead mills, manufactures ofglass, toys, sugar of lead, &c.A good yacht, with two large cabins, may betaken from Rotterdam to Moordyck, for fortyeight French livres: the length of the passage,from five to six hours or more, varies accordingto the weather and the season of the year. Onthe way you pass the strong town of Dordrecht,At Moordyck, as all the houses are damp, it isbest to sleep on board the yacht.From Rotterdam it is twelve miles to DoRDRECHT or Dort, an ancient fine large opulenttown in South Holland, on the Maese, here calledthe Merwe. It has the privilege to oblige all shopscoming down the Rhine and Maese to unload,and pay a toll; which, with the duties uponRhenish wine, produces a large revenue. Itsnatural situation, upon an island in the Maese, issuch that it never was taken by an enemy till theFrench entered it in 1795.Manufactures, &c.-Wines, particularly Rhenish, corn and timber; most of the latter is cut up56 DORDRecht, dort AND GORCUM.in the many saw mills in the neighbourhood. Inproportion to its extent Dort is the richest placein Holland, and has been the rival of Amsterdam for some years past, by its large commercialspeculations.Dordrecht was formerly attached to the terrafirma of Brabant, but in the year 1421 a dykebeing destroyed by the sea, 72 villages were inundated, and 100,000 persons drowned. Thegroundupon which these villages stood, is now occupiedby the lake called Biesboch, between twelve andfifteen square leagues in extent. One half of itssurface is covered with reeds.GORCUM is a strong place, twelve miles fromDort on the Maese river, which here also bearsthe name ofthe Merwe, produces great quantities of salmon. The horses bred in the environs areas valuable as those of Friesland. The castle ofLouvenstein just by, is celebrated in consequenceof the imprisonment of Grotius. His apartment is still shewn. At the house at Gorcum whereGrotius was concealed after his escape, threedrawings made by him relative to this event, are also to be seen. Inns-The Doelen-Trade,Commerce, and Manufactures-cheese and butter.DELFT is generally the next place to Rotterdam,which travellers wish to visit on their way to theHague; is six miles distant from that city.Delft is very ancient and picturesque; andhere under an old castellated gateway, a commissary or licensed porter attends with his wheel.barrow to take charge ofthe passengers' luggage.In this town, and indeed in every inn in Holland, the guest has always a silver fork placed by his side and a table cloth white as snow. Herein the new church is the tomb of the immortalGrotius, who died at Rostock on his return fromDELFT AND ITS CURIOSITIES. 57the Court of Queen Christina in 1645. Thechimes ofthe church, consist of four or five hundred bells upon which the Dutch perform beyondthe power of imitation by the French, Italians,or English, they are played upon by means ofkeys communicating with the bells by a personcalled the Carilloneur, who is regularly instructedin the art; but it is an exercise highly painfuland laborious.སྒྱུར་The east end of the church is semicircular; arange of pillars supports the roof.Within these pillars is a large space surroundedwith iron rails, and paved with black and whitemarble, under which is the family vault of thePrinces of Orange. In the centre of this spacethe best possible situation, stands a monument,consisting of a sarcophagus on which lies a marble figure of William I. in his robes as if dead.At his feet is the dog, the expression of whosecountenance cannot be too much admired. Fidelity and stern grief could not be betterrepresented. Above is a magnificent pieceof architecture consisting of a marble canopy,supported by four buttresses of white marble,and twenty columns of black and gold, in anadmirable style. On the top, a tablet held up bytwo boys in bronze, contains the Prince's epitaplı,in small and obscure characters. At each cornerof the tomb stands a bronze figure, the first representing Liberty with a cap inscribed, surelywith peculiar emphasis. " Aurea Libertas," thesecond is Fortitude, the third Religion, and thefourth Justice, represented not blind, but accurately observing with rather too pert an air, thebalance in her hand. Under an arch at the headof the tomb is a bronze statue of the prince inarmour, in a sitting posture; and at the other58 MONUMENTS OF HUGO GROTIUS, &c.end of the tomb a figure of Fame just takingflight, likewise of bronze. All the figures are aslarge as life. This monument cost £1800 sterling. The whole is in a style of design and execution vastly superior to the taste in Englandat the same period; witness the uncouth monuments of Queen Elizabeth and Mary Queen ofScots in Westminster Abbey.On the pillars above the mausoleum hang various escutcheons and trophies ofthe family. Thatofthe princess, the eldest daughter of King Georgethe Second, is enriched with much cumbrousfinery. Onthe north side of the church a handsome monument has been erected rather morethan twenty years, over the grave of the famousHugo Grotius, consisting of a large arch ofblackmarble, with a white niche absurdly containing apyramid, a medallion, and various other thingsrather too much in a heap. This, it has been said,should have been his epitaph,«See nations slowly wise, and meanly just,To buried merit raise the tardy bust."Johnson's Vanity of Human Wishes, ver. 159.Near the Old Church at Delft, stands the identical house in which William I. was murdered byan assassin hired by the King of Spain, in 1584:and this disgraceful circ*mstance is perpetuatedby a Dutch inscription placed over two holes inthe wall on the stairs, made by the pistol bulletsafter they had passed through the body of theunfortunate prince; the Old Church also contains the tombs ofAdmiral's Tromp and Heine.The Market-place is a spacious square: on oneside stands the New Church; on the other, theTown-house, which is an old Gothic building,BEAUTIFUL ROAD TO THE HAGUE. 59but decorated with paint and ornament, so as tomake no contemptible figure.From the Hague gate here people generallyembark in a treckschuyt for that charming village: the noble and level road on the right, thickly planted with rows of fine elms; the numberof curricles, &c. driving close to the water, thefine woods, beautiful gardens, country-houses,not two of which are similar; and in fact " thesingle ride from Delft to the Hague has beenthought sufficient to repay all the trouble andanxiety in getting in and out of Holland during the late war. All the principal country- houseshave a wooden letter box close to the bank ofthecanal; here the treckschuyt drops letters or par- cels without loss of time. Boats pass and repassfrom here to the Hague every half hour.·"3From hereyoumay make an excursionto Gouda,to visit its curious manufactory of tobacco- pipes.It is situated at the conflux ofthe Gouive, a branchofthe Rhine, with the Yssel. It is celebrated forits sluices, by which the adjacent country may be laid under water in a few hours. St. John'schurch is remarkable for its painted glass window.All ships trading to Holland, Zealand, and theadjacent provinces ofthe Netherlands, are obligedto pass this place to go in the Yssel, and fromthence into the Merwe. It lies ten miles north.east of Rotterdam.Trade, Commerce and Manufactures.-Yarnandtow, tobacco-pipes (the clay brought from Liege),cheese, &c.THE HAGUE,Nine miles north-west of Rotterdam. This village, which has neither walls nor gates, is enclosed60 PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &C. AT THE HAGUE.by a large ditch, over which there are severaldraw- bridges. From the number of its inhabitants, and the magnificence of its buildings andtheir ornaments, it nevertheless surpasses manycities. The principal church here is entirely linedwith black escutcheons, which of course exhibitbut a gloomy appearance. Among other publicbuildings, those that excite particular attention,are the residence of the Stadtholder the Hotelde Ville-the New Temple-the houses of M.Baron de Wassenaer and Count Bentheim - theSchutter Doclen-the Corn Exchange, in whichthere is a Society of Painters-the Gevangepoort,celebrated through the assassination of the DeWitts, &c. &c. The Prinzengraft passes for thebest street in the Hague.-This place containsseveral learned and scientific societies; and hereis also a very handsome little theatre. The principal cabinets here are those of M. Hemsterhuis,for engraved stones-M. M. Voet and Menschen'scollection of insects-M. Lyonet's, of shells -M.Doctor Hooy's, of Natural History-M. Fazel's,library and collection of curiosties-Messrs. Shepheteren, Slingeland, and Royer's collection ofprints and pictures.The Prince's Museum is very rich, and mostadmirably kept. Englishmen are politely told,that this is inferior to the British Museum only;but there can be no accurate comparison, as eachexcels in a different way. This at the Hague ispeculiarly abundant in toys and other things fromthe East Indies. The insects and shells are verygood; the birds uncommonly choice, though notvery numerous. The servant at the door, howeyer, always expects a fee.The best promenades here, are the great andlittle Voorhout, the Wood, the Palace Royal,SINGULAR CUSTOM AT THE HAGUE. 61and Klein Loo, along the pond, which contains the Swan's Island.A singular annual custom prevails at theHagueduring May. Here, according to annual practice,the western gate of the palace is ornamented withgarlands for each person of the Orange Family,which has never been discontinued but during thelate revolution. Chaplets, with the initials ofeach in flowers, are placed under large coronets,upon green flag- staffs; and of course exhibit avery peculiar appearance.What is here called the grand Voorhoutis ratherindeed two series of palaces than a street. Between two broad carriage-ways, which passimmediately along the sides, are several alleys oftall lime trees, canopying walks, first laid out byCharles V. in 1536; and being then ordered tobe carefully preserved, the placard is still extantwhich directs the punishment of offenders againstthem.But the most beautiful part ofthe Hague is theVyverburg: it is an oblong, adorned with a marble walk, or mall, strewed with broken shells,and shaded by avenues oftrees on one side, andon the other by the palace, and a large basin ofwater called the Vyver, almost a quarter ofa milein length, variegated by an island of poplars in its centre..This Mallis the place offashionable resort, particularly on an evening.The palace in the Wood is near this place, andis considered as the greatest piece ofnational prideofthe Dutch. This spot so dear to them is nearlytwo English miles long, and about three quartersofa mile broad. It contains a number of majėstic oaks growing in all their native luxuriance.The ground upon which they grow and the counG62 DUTCH GARDENING.-RYSWICK, &c.try about it, undulate a little, a circ*mstance ofa*greeable novelty, and the whole is atruly delightful walk. This wood is held sacred, with almostpagan piety.Adjoining to this wood stands the country seatof the Prince of Orange. The gardens of thispalace are a curiosity in their way. The projector ofthem having doubtless heard the generaldisapprobation of Dutch gardening, and how veryodious straight walks and rows oftrees are universally reckoned by all who esteem themselvescritics, or persons of taste, was resolved at leastto avoid that fault; so that every walk is twistedinto a semicircle, every grass plat cut into a crescent, and every hedge thrusts itself where it isleast desired. In vain does the straight- forwardtraveller, wish to saunter leisurely and insensiblyalong, to attain any point of view, or other objectthat promises to give him pleasure. He soonfinds the most specious path is not to be trusted;for, instead ofleading him where it promised, anunexpected turning may bring him near the veryspot from whence he set out.People that visit the Hague are generally invited as the next place to Leyden. The Leydentreckschuyt naturally presenting itself, the canal,for two miles and a half at least, exhibits on oneside country- houses, and rich meadows on theother. Leydenham, a neat village, about halfwayto Leyden, frequently induces passengers tostop.The village of RYSWICK is two short milesfrom the Hague, and three from Delft, almost onthe road between the two towns. It is remarkable for the prettiness and cleanliness that distinguishes the villages of Holland from all others.The Ryswick road is a very beautiful walk, well

ThePALACE OF RYSWICK, SCHEVELING, &c. 63paved, and adorned with rows of lofty trees andgreen meadows, on both sides. About a quarterof a mile through the village, stands the Palace,begun by a Duke of Neuburg, but finished by aPrince of Orange. It is too much shaded withtrees, as most of the seats in Holland were, and isone ofthe few fine structures in the United Provinces, constructed wholly of free- stone.elevation of the front is not in proportion to itsextent. It has a magnificent terrace, marblefloors, and a marble stair-case; but has been formany years past let to private individuals, and isat present only remembered on account of thetreaty ofpeace between France and the Allies in 1697. The Minister of France resided at Delft,during the time the Congress was held here, andas there was no small trouble in adjusting matters of ceremony, separate entrances were madeinto the palace, and the minister of the mediatingpower only, had the privilege to pass and repassthrough the principal gate.SCHEVELING, the fisherman's port, is abouttwo miles from the Hague, the rout, bordered withtrees, is delightful; and is much resorted to bybreakfasting parties, and for a prospect of thesea; yet here, above all places, people should beguarded against the extortions of the innkeepers.The promenade to Scheveling is the principal diversion ofthe inhabitants of the Hugue. In thisvillage is a church which contains a monumentvery similar to that of Boerhaave at Leyden; theinscription on it is onlyOSSACORNELII AB HEMSCHKIRK.The natural beauty of Scheveling is much enhanced, by the length of the avenue, leading to it G 264 PECULIAR CUSTOMS IN HOLLAND..from the Hague, which is nearly two English miles,perfectly straight, and thickly planted with beech,limes, and oaks, at the end of which superb vista,Scheveling church appears. This beautiful avenueis not less esteemed than the wood at the Hague.At the entrance, in a most romantic spot, is a turnpike- gate, where all passengers, the fishermen excepted, pay some doights, as entrance, money.Orders also are stuck up, indicating severe punishment for cutting the smallest twig. The sandhills that rise near the church, though they hinderthe sight of the ocean, till the traveller is almostupon it, amply repay him at last by the suddennessand boldness ofthe scene, which then opens to hisadmiring view. Still the coast of Scheveling isvery dangerous in rough weather: the spires ofthe church here, and those of Gravesande andMunster, three leagues to the south, serve for landmarks, though owing to the flatness ofthe country,they are scarcely discernible three or four leagues at sea.66As a proofthat Holland is the bee-hive of industry, most of the little wares and merchandizes,particularly fish, are drawn by dogs properly har- nessed for the occasion to little carts. Goats alsoare yoked to children's waggons and curricles, toair andexercise their owners. The Hollander,"Sir John Carr observes, " who is remarkable forhis humanity to the dumb creation, feeds themwell, and lodges them in his house, very comfortably. Owing to the great care taken oftheir dogs,the canine madness seldom appears among them.On Sundays, they are permitted to refresh andenjoy themselves, and never shew any dispositionto escape fromtheir lot of industry. In their farms,cows and oxen are always in draught, and displayPORTLAND GARDENS, HERRING BUSSES, &c. 65every appearance of receiving the kindest treatment from their master."About half a mile on the left of Scheveling, arePortland Gardens, called in Dutch, Sorg Vliet, orSans Souci. There is a fine Orangery in theformofan amphitheatre, and a music room in the centre. These gardens, are very extensive, and theserpentine walks, the seats and statutes, well disposed, seemed to indicate, that the master was indebted to the English, for the superiority of histaste over that of his countrymen.There are some Jet d'Eaus, childish; remnants,ofDutch humour; for instance, as you walk overa bridge nicely paved, byturning a co*ck, a numberof little fountains play up through the interstices ofthe stones. At the end of one ofthe walks is achair, from the seat of which another fountainsprings the moment you have seated yourself, tothe utter derangement ofyour dress.There is a grotto here, in much better taste;on Scheveling beach, great numbers of fishingsmacks, called Herring Busses, are frequentlylying, too stoutly built to be injured by dashingagainst the shore. Upwards of an hundred ofthese vessels are said to belong to this village, oflittle more than two hundred houses.There is a comfortable little inn on the beach;but a dinner here, costs more than at an hotel atthe Hague.LEYDEN is nine miles fromthe Hague, and thesame distance from Delft: it is also fifteen milesfrom Gouda. It is situated on the Rhine, and forbeauty and magnitude, yields only to Amsterdam.Among the most remarkable objects, is the largestreet, one of the finest in Europe. Altenbourgor the Chateau, containing a labyrinth, and a drywell ofconsiderable depth; the town house whereG 366 LEYDEN, ITS CURIOSITIES, UNIVERSITY, &c.there is a painting in oil, of the last judgment byLucas de Leyde-the church of St. Peter, containing the monuments of Boerhaave, Camper, andPeter Mearman-the Astronomical observatorythe sewers, so capacious as to admit of boats toclean them out-the Taylor's Guild, where is stillpreserved the table used by John of Leyden, thecelebrated chief ofthe fanatic Anabaptists; exclusive of the university, the library of which contains 40,000 volumes, and 10,000 manuscripts,there are literary and scientific associations, unequalled in any university uponthe continent. Thelate M. De Leyde's cabinet of prints, is supposedto be the most considerable in Holland. Next tothese is M.Tack's collection of paintings by Dutchmasters; the drawings and medals in possessionof M. Dibbel; and some remains of the magnificent Snakenbourgeoise, at the house ofM.VanBuren, the Panpoeticum, or collection of portraitsby the Poetic Society-M. Douveren's collection of minerals. The Anatomical theatre, &c.are worthy the attention of a traveller: besideswhich,the town- housethe old castle of Altenbourg,with its labyrinths and charming prospects, theCustom-house, the House of Correction, and Orphan's house, are deserving ofnotice.The famous University of this place was founded in 1575. The constitutional regulations ofwhich are extremely liberal. Youths of everyreligious persuasion mingle together in perfectharmony, like brothers; they associate to study,and not to quarrel about theological trifles. Whatever may be the rank of the student, or fromwhatever country he may come, he speedily is ledto adopt the decent, gentle, and frugal mannersand habits ofthe inhabitants. The revolution andthe late war in this country, have necessarily les-ORIGIN OF LEYDEN UNIVERSITY. 67sened the number ofyoung men of rank and fortune in this seminary. The students do not nowexceed two hundred, but the happy restoration ofpeace will no doubt soon increase their number.The beauty, tranquillity, cleanliness, and salubrity ofthe city in which it stands, and the cheapness and perfect freedom ofliving, and the charmsof the surrounding country, hold out the strongest attractions to the recluse and studious.The examinations for academical honours aremore severe than even those of Trinity College,Dublin.It has been justly observed that this celebratedcollege was founded by the " blood of the brave.",After the memorable siege of Leyden by the Spaniards, in the year 1573, and the five months'blockade, which reduced the inhabitants to devour.one another rather than surrender, and a greatnumber of deaths in this way, the place beingrelieved by the Dutch Admiral Louis Brissot; thePrince of Orange, to reward them for their bravery, gave them their option to be exempted for acertain period from taxes, or of having a Univer.sity founded in their town, and with noble anddisinterested wisdom, they gave a preference to the latter.aAt the College is a Museum of Natural History, collected entirely by Professor Allamande,containing many very rare quadrupeds and amphibia, with very fine corals, ores, and pebbles.There is a young ostrich in the egg, ArgonautaArgo, paper, nautilus, with the animal in it, andsome good papillos.The Botanic Garden has been much enlargedwithin these sixty years. In Boerhaave's time itconsisted only of a small square piece of ground;afterwards more than twice as much was added to68 BOTANIC GARDEN; EXPLOSION AT LEYDEN.it on the south-west across a canal; so that thewhole is now about as large as the Chelsea garden.The plant most worthy of notice is a very finepalm, about fourteen feet high, in flower inthe openair, raised from seed bythe famous Carolus Clusius,who died professor at Leyden in 1609, consequently must have been growing here upwards oftwo hundred years. This very tree, and the potin which it grows, are figured in the frontispieceof Boerhaave's Index. It appears then to havebeen about half as high as at present, and must,without doubt, bethe palm mentioned by Linnæus.Leyden will also be long memorable on accountof the dreadful explosion which happened thereon the 12th of January, 1806. About one o'clockofthat day a vessel laden with 40,000lbs. weight ofgunpowder lying in the Rapenburg canal takingfire, blew up with so dreadful an explosion, that several hundred lives were lost, and a great partof the city destroyed. King Louis, brother to theFrench Emperor, hearing ofthe disaster, repairedto the city, and after personally assisting in stopping the progress of the flames, and dragging thesufferers from beneath the burning ruins, offeredthe palace in the wood to persons of respectability,whose houses had been destroyed. The magistrates were also sanctioned to make a collectionall through the states; and the king further ordered 100,000 guilders to be paid to the poor sufferers out of the treasury,Leyden is so large, that a traveller is likely tohave a walk of a mile or more to his inn; and ifhe happens to come into the place in fair time, hemay find the way not very pleasant, unless it maybe any pleasure to press through an immensecrowd. At Leyden, the booths being disposedunder trees, and along the borders of canals, itLEYDEN FAIR; HARLEM, &c. 69makes the whole appearance differ from that ofan English fair. Several booths here may be seenfilled with silversmiths and jewellers' ware, probably to the amount of some thousands of pounds.French clocks and watches are distinguished articles. Great quantities of English goods arealso to be seen at the Dutch fairs, and Englishnames, as formerly, may now probably be seenover the booths. Among other peculiarities, theDutch fairs are very often kept on Sundays.Inns. A very comfortable hotel, at the GoldenBall, is in the principal street, called the BroadStreet.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.- Finecloth, soap, indigo, &c. The Dutch black clothis of a much deeper and superior colour thanour's.HARLEM is about seven miles from Amsterdam,and fifteen from Leyden. The Sparre traversesthis city and communicates with Amsterdam andLeyden by the canals. This place contains about8000 houses.Some writers pretend, that it was at Harlemthat Coster first discovered the art of printing in1440. A full length figure of him is still preserved in the front of his house. The countryvillas on the south of the town are numerous, andthe wood in the environs affords a very agreeablepromenade.The veens, or Turf- pits, maybe seen from Harlem, of which the greatest part appear to be fullofwater, and little likely to be productive of fuel;notwithstanding four hundred thousand people,who inhabit the three neighbouring cities, are supplied from them.On one side of the canal is the Harlem meer, orLake, so celebrated all over Europe for producing670 BLEACHERIES AT HARLEM, BREDA,the most brilliant whiteness upon the linensbleached here, the excellence of which cannot beequalled by any chemical process. This lake isabout fourteen miles in length, and of equalbreadth; it lies between Leyden, Harlem, and Âmsterdam; is navigable, but subject to storms, andsome melancholy accidents have happened on it;which occasioned the canals to be made from Leyden to Amsterdam, a much longer passage, butthe safety of it induces most travellers to prefer itfor the sake ofpassing through Harlem.Trade Commerce and Manufactares.-This consists chiefly in bleaching of linen, and in tapes andthread. The Holland and cambrick made in Flanders, and great quantities of fine Irish are sentthere to be whitened; the slimy water oftheMeerbeing acknowledged superior to any water uponearth for bleacheries. They have likewise considerable manufactories in velvet and silk, whichthey vend chiefly at Leipsick and Hamburg.BREDA. Twenty- six miles south-east of Rotterdam, on the other side of the Maiseland Sluice, isa place well fortified, and situated in a fertile plain,on the Merwe. It is a very clean and well builtplace. Its environs are extremely pleasant, ashere are three woods, and the trees in one of themplanted so as to form different walks. The PrincesofNassauformerly possesseda fine castle here, andmagnificent gardens. The French seized uponthis place for the last time in 1795, as, after takingit in 1792, they were obliged to relinquish it.Breda is one of the places that made a gallant re- sistance: the Commandant Colonel Gross, was aSwiss.This fortress is triangular, the ramparts arefaced with stone, and shaded with rows of elm,which extend entirely round the town. At everyGERTRUYDENBERG, BERGEN OP ZOOM. 7Iangle there is a gate built of brick, the curtainsare flanked with fifteen bastions planted with cannon, and by fourteen ravelins. It is about twomiles in circumference; the country round is marshy, and often overflowed by the river Merck: thefosse is very wide, and the water deep.Near the market-place stands the great church,whose spire is three hundred and sixty feet high,from whose top you have a most extensive prospect, commanding Antwerp to the south, andRotterdam to the north-west.The Mausoleum of Engelbert, Count of Nessau,in the great Church, is spoken of as a piece ofsculpture highly worthy ofinspection.GERTRUYGENBERG, nine miles north of Breda,and twelve south-east of Dort, is built in theformofa half- moon, and the walls of it are washed- bythe lake Biebosch. Here are several bastions, andsome forts with sluices, by which all the countrycan be laid under water. The inhabitants aresupplied by the neighbouring river with good salmon, sturgeon, and such plenty of shads, that10,000 ofthem have been taken in the vicinity, inone day.BERGEN OP ZOOM.TWENTY miles west of Breda, is one of thestrongest places in the Netherlands; it is seatedon the river Zoom, which communicates with theriver Scheldt, by a canal. The subterranean passages, and the gallery by which the French entered this strong place in 1747, are still to be seen,together with the ravelins of La Pucelle and Cohorn, in which the breaches were made previousto the assault, with the fort of Eden between thetwo, which did not surrender till after the town72 ZEALAND AND AMSTERDAM.had been taken. It was again surrendered to themduring the resolutionary war.From Bergen op Zoom, it is pleasant to make an excursion toZEALAND,AN Island, which is about fifteen miles long,and half as broad. The land all lies low and isdefended from the sea by high banks. The soil isextremely rich, but not applied to pasturage. Hereare some large fields of madder, which is a particular article of culture in this country, which theyfollow very assiduously, and from whence madderis called Zealand madder. It grows on flat landsformed into regular oblongs by small trenches, andin rows about a foot asunder, it is a straggling oddplant; yet kept very clean, by weeding and hoeing. It is three years in the ground, unless thegrowth is extraordinary, and in such case, two aresufficient; the valuable part is the root, which,when dried, makes a very fine dye: they esteem itmore profitable, than any other article of husbandry, but are forced to pick their land for it, as itwill succeed only on certain soils: the great pointis to find pieces dry enough for it, and at the sametime extremely fertile, for no land is too rich for itGreat quantities of madder are exported, frommost parts of Zealand to London, as the growthdoes not succeed in England, notwithstanding allthe endeavours that have been used to raise it.Thirty seven miles north-east ofRotterdan isAMSTERDAM.THIS is the largest and finest town in Holland,and in extent beauty and population, is exceededAMSTERDAM, THE RONDELL, &c. 73by few cities in the Universe. It is situated onthe rivers Ye and Amstel. The city is built onpiles of wood and is intersected by numerous ca- nals. It is about nine miles and a half in circumference, ofa semicircular form, surrounded with aditch about eighty feet wide, and a rampart facedwith brick, which is in several places dismantled.It has twenty-six bastions; and by means of itssluices the whole country may easily be laid underwater. Towards the Ye it is not fortified , but onlyprotected by a double row of great poles driveninto the ground, and joined by beams placedhorizontally. The openings left at certain distances to admit the ships are shut at night. Largevessels lie on the outside of these poles. It haseight noble gates of stone and several drawbridges. Neither here nor in any of the cities ortowns of Holland is a stranger stopped for theproduction of passports, or any of those disagreeable ceremonies, which distinguish the police of many other countries.The Dutch theatre is large and handsome, andhas a noble front. During the interval betweenthe acts, which exceeds at one time an hour, manyof the people quit the house to take refreshment,dispatch business, or walk in the open air. Thereis no half-price, but little boys purchase the re-admission tickets of those who come out and are disposed to part from them; these they sell again ata profit. Those ofthe audience who remain amusethemselves with their usual.occupation of smoaking.The Rondell, so much talked of at Amsterdam,is a kind of assembly room, like the Spiel-housesof Rotterdam , and frequented by tradesmen, theirwives and children. The room is small andshabby, and the music but indifferent. Adjoining H74 THE STADT- HOUSE.it, is a small square court, with about half a dozentrees in it. Such, it is said, is the celebrated Rondell of Amsterdam, which the Dutch, who havenever seen England, have been in the habit ofcomparing to our Vauxhall!!! Many ofthe shopsat Amsterdam are exceedingly handsome, particularly those belonging to jewellers and printsellers; in the latter, even during the war, prints of the illustrious Nelson and our maritime victories were exposed to view. The druggists here,and in other parts of Holland, use as a sign, ahuge carved head with the mouth wide open,placed before the shop windows; sometimes re- sembling a Mercury's head, and sometimes surmounted by a fools cap. This clumsy sign adoptedwithout any known reason, is called "the Gaaper. "Many ofthe signs in Amsterdam, have inscriptionsin low doggrel verse.The Stadt-house, which Louis Napoleon appropriated to himselffor a palace, is by the Dutchcalled the Eighth Wonder ofthe World.This edifice chosen by Louis is well worthy ofits elevation into a palace, though its extent andmagnificence seem forgotten by modern travellers.It is almost a quadrangle formed of free stone, andnearly equal in depth and breadth, with pavilionsat each angle. It is 110 paces in front, which ismore than that ofSt. Peter's at Rome. The pilasters, chapiters, and cornices, are of the Corinthianorder. The porticos, or rather seven small gates,have often been justly censured as disproportionate to the symmetry of the rest; but abovethem a pediment projects, which is certainly a verynoble piece of sculpture, representing the city ofAmsterdam under the figure of Cybele, as sovereign ofthe seas, with Neptune, and several otherfigures, emblematical of the commerce and opu-THE STADT- HOUSE, &c. 75lence of the republic: This groupe has been estimated as a master-piece of its kind, both for itsboldness and execution, as far surpassing the pediment of St. Paul's as that pediment surpasses theporticos ofthe Stadt- house.On the back front, a Basso relievo correspondswith the other. The summit sustains a brazenAtlas, bearing on his shoulders a globe of copperlarger than that of St. Peter's at Rome. Thestatues on this edifice are but few, representingJustice, Fortitude, and Plenty: they are well disposed, and of excellent workmanship. This superb building has the advantage of a fine opensituation; its architecture is not perhaps of thepurest kind, but there is a degree of magnificenceabout the whole, and its decorations are so rich,that it cannot fail powerfully to interest any beholder. The great hall in the centre is a very noble room entirely lined with marble; but the different apartments where business is transacted,are furnished in a manner more suitable to thisclimate, being generally hung with velvet. Asmall room for passing sentence of death is fittedup entirely with marble decorations calculated toinspire the greatest degree of awe. On one sideare colossal female figures, covering their faces.with their hands. Between them are bas reliefs,representing Solomon's Judgment, and other memorable examples of justice from antient history.Bythe secretary's seat sits a figure of silence withher finger on her lips, and a death's head at herfeet, and on each side a serpent with an apple in itsmouth, alluding to the Fall. Above are Gorgons,Children weeping over death's heads, &c.Most of the ornaments throughout the housearestrikingly apposite. Over the door of the roomwhere bankrupt's affairs are decided, is a bas relief H 276 CURIOUS PAINTINGS, MONUMENTS, &c.of Daedalus and Icarus. Over the secretary'schamber the highest degree of fidelity is represented by a dog almost starved to death, watchingthe body ofhis murdered master. There are hereseveral good pictures, particularly one by Rembrandt, representing a night patrole; in the grouping of the figures, and the management of lightand shade, it is infinitely superior to all therest, nevertheless, many of them are extremelyfine. In the same room is a party at dinner, saidto be by Vandyke, grievously deficient in grouping,but full of fine detached figures. One old man'shead is so much admired, that an immense sum of money has been offered for it to be cut out of thepicture. Inthe next room is a most capital paint- ing, representing an entertainment at which atreaty of friendship is made between a Dutchburgo-master and a Spanish general. Here is alsothe signing of the peace of Munster, by VanderHelft; an Assembly of the States, by Vandyke;and meeting of the Confederates, by Rembrandt.The south side of the grand saloon was the work of the celebrated Huyghens.""In the new church is the superb monument ofAdmiral de Ruyter, standing in the place usuallyoccupied in catholic churches by the altar. In theepitaph he is styled " Immensi tremor oceani,'" the terror of the vast ocean;" and on the marble door of his vault is inscribed " Intaminatisfulget honoribus," "he shines with unblemishedlustre." Such praise does no less honour to hisgrateful country, than to the hero who richly de- served it.

The old church contains some bad monuments,andthree very fine and well preserved painted windows. Its floor is much encumbered with clumsycarvings in marble, and brass on the tomb- stones.HAMBURGHER'S CHAPEL- BANK, &c. 77One part ofthis church excites in a benevolentmind more veneration than the shrines ofsaints, oreven the tombs of the good and illustrious; thisis the Hamburghers' chapel, a place which at thedawn of the Reformation was granted by the magistrates of Amsterdam, at that time Catholics, tosome Protestant merchants of Hamburgh for aburying place. The wise and truly Christian magistrates received these exiles with open arms inspite ofthe remonstrances of their ownpriesthood;and a grant of the above-mentioned chapel wasone ofthe earliest triumphs of liberality and charity over superstition in one of its most tenderpoints. The chapel is still destined to the interment ofHamburghers dying at Amsterdam. TheDutch never take off their hats in a church excepting during the sermon: the chimes of this churchare excellent.The bank of Amsterdam, established in 1609,is shut. for a fortnight in the months ofJanuaryand July, and during a week at Easter, Whitsuntide, and Christmas. When money is to be drawn,it is necessary to go or to send before eight in themorning, to ascertain the validity of the order.People who neglect attending on this businessfrom eight till ten, pay from two to six sous. Anyperson having money deposited there, and wishingto make a payment, must carry, or send his orderto be examined by the book-keepers. The following is the form of the document:Folio 1124.Messrs. the Commissioners of the Bank will payto N. N. the sum of twelve hundred and fifty-fourflorins, &c.Florins 1254 12 8

1. 3

78 EXCHANGE, MARKETS, WATCHMEN.The folio, or page above mentioned, refers tothat in the great book, in which stands the accountof the person drawing upon them. The cashiersin this bank, in making large payments, do notcount the money, but give and receive it byweight.The other public buildings worthy ofnotice are,the Exchange, which has two handsome galleries,under which the merchants retire in bad weather;the pillars supporting the same are numbered forthe convenience of finding persons inquired for.Next to this is the Corn Market; the HerringPackers' Tower, the Four Houses of Charity, theHospital, the Lazaretto, the Infirmary for theAged, the nine Orphan Houses, the Rasp House,the Spin House, &c. &c. Persons who visit theBotanic Garden pay four stivers on their entrance.The bridge over the Amstel is handsomely execated; and the number of vessels collected in thebasin of Amsterdam, &c. conveys the idea of athick forest, with other forests beyond it.There are some regulations in the police ofAmsterdam, which would be well worthy of imitation in London; you never meet a watchmanalone, two always walk together, by which meansthey add strength, as well as give courage toeach other. Many a house is broke open in London, and many a sober citizen knocked down inthe presence ofa watchman, who, either from fearor knavery, suffers the villains to escape.Promenades.-The quays along the river Ye,particularly on the side of Kattenbourg, are remarkably pleasant; as on the opposite side of thatriver the city presents itself in all its magnificence.One of the finest and most variegated views isfrom the New Sluice; from thence you see theHerren-Graft and the Kaisers' - Graft, that is, theCANALS, CARRIAGES, CABINETS. 79Lords' Canal and the Emperor's Canal, in thecentre of the city: the Diemer Meer, a little canton extremely fertile, with a number of farms andcountry houses: the new plantation, the promenades in carriages or in treckschuyts to the innat Seeburg. The carriages at Amsterdam arethose of four wheels; cabriolets with two horses;or what is called the sley, or sledge, used in andabout Amsterdam, by which is merely meant thebody of a coach placed upon a sledge and drawnby one horse. The driver walks by the side of itwith the reins in one hand, and in the other awetted rope, which he sometimes throws underthe sledge to prevent it from taking fire. Theprice of these sledges is eight pence English, forany distance within the city, and eight pence anhour for the man's attendance.Collections and Cabinets. The principal oftheseare at the Illustrious School; the Theatre ofAnatomy and the superb collection Des Maladiesdes Os; the cabinets of Natural History; thepictures in the possession of Messrs. Smit, D.Bruin, H. ter Kats, Muilman, D. Arp, Brionen,C. L. de Halo, &c. The collections, prints, anddesigns of Goll van Frankenstein, Vos, Versteeg,Bosch, Vinkeles, Fok-Vandyk, Sluiter, GrofLange, &c. with those of Natural History by M.Ray; M. Temmink's Cabinet of Birds. M. deWinter has also a fine collection of paintings, andM. Van Brenton's valuable cabinet has been supposed to contain the only Venetian pictures in Holland. ALiterary and useful Establishments.-The Academy forDrawing; the Poetic Society; the Societytot nut Van t Algemeen; the Atheneum Illustre;L'Ecole des Matelots; and the Society Felix Meritis, in a noble building upon the Kaisers'- Graft,80 MODE OF PICKLING AND PRESERVING.with the finest Concert-room in the city: to thissociety some hundreds of members belong, menof literature in general, poets as well as philosophers, who at stated times recite poems, deliverlectures, and make orations. The Reading Museum is in the Rokkin, &c.Inns. The Amsterdam Arms is an excellentinn; the Heerlogement; the Doelen in the Garnale Markt; the Doelen in the Doelen Straat.In the environs ofthe Herren-Graft, and the Kaiser's- Graft, a stranger will find furnished lodgings at a reasonable charge.Manufactures, Trade, and Commerce.-Cloths,serges, gold-wire, hats, glass, refineries ofcamphor,borax, various metallic compositions, bell-foundries, sugar-houses, vinegar-yards, oil- mills, diamond- cutting.The superior mode of pickling and preservingherrings, peculiar to the Dutch, which is said toconsist in the manner of gilling and salting them,is a secret preserved under the sanctity of an oath,and is also guarded by the laws of the country.The usual leave given the Dutch to fish off Yarmouth, though considerably impeded during thelate war, it is understood being again granted, ourindustrious neighbours are preparing to availthemselves of it with their wonted ardour andperseverance.NAARDEN, about fourteen miles from Amsterdam, is a strong and well-built place. The traveller who is coming from Germany will find thefirst treckschuyts here. This place is lookedupon as one ofthe bulwarks of Amsterdam.Manufactures, &c.Velvets and cloth.JOURNEY TO NORTH HOLLAND, &c.CHAP. II.Rout from Amsterdam to Zutphen, &c.81Miles. Hours.From Amsterdam to Sardam 7 12 Sardam to Brock........Amsterdam to Monickedam6 18 2Amsterdam to Hoorn........ 22 5Hoorn to Enkhuysen..... 8Enkhuysen to Medenblick. 8Medenblick to Alkmaar.... 174224Alkmaar to Worcum, by water... 22 Worcum to Bolswert 7 12/2 Bolswert to Leuwarden... 13 344 Leuwarden to Dockum.. 12 Dockum to Groningueu .21Groninguen to Winschooten..................... 20 Winschooten to Coevorden..................………. 39 Coevorden to Zwoll........ Zwoll to Daventer...10 35 9.. 12Daventer to Zutphen.........Amsterdam to Utrecht, by water.Utrecht to Zeylen ..... Utrecht to Wyk........... Amsterdam to Nimeguen..Nimeguen to Arnheim...312 352 13 10 24WHEN a stranger is at Amsterdam, it is worth hiswhile to cross over to North Holland, otherwiseWest Friesland, and make the tour of that smallbut beautiful spot, once a complete marsh, composed of many lakes, of which nothing now remains, excepting their names and descriptions onmaps. Sir William Temple did not let this corner escape his attention; he said, the Beemster(previously a rotten marsh) was so well plantedwith gardens, orchards, and fertile enclosures, asto make it the pleasantest landscape he ever saw,82 EXCURSION TO SARDAM.Here, in the hospital for superannuated seamen,he tells us, he met with the only rich man he eversaw in his life; for when he offered him a crownfor shewing him the hospital, and had given hima pleasant account of his adventures by sea, theman refused it, saying he had no need of money,being plentifully supplied with every thing he wanted in the hospital! -They travel here on thecanals in winter as in South Holland. The chieftowns are Monnickedam, Edam, Purmerend,Alkmaar, Hoorn, Enkhuysen, and Medenblick.Schagen, at the northern extremity ofthe province,is a good village, but much exceeded by Egmont.The islands of Texel, Vlieland, and Schelling, atthe mouth of the Zuyder Sea, belong to NorthHolland, The Texel is six miles long and fourbroad; it contains several villages and towns;one at the eastern extremity is called Burch,where the inhabitants that used to be employed inthe herring fishery graze large flocks of sheep and cattle, and make much butter.From Enkhuysen there is a short passage toStaveren in East Friesland; from thence one mayproceed through the canals to Leuwarden andFranecker, the two principal towns of that province; travellers, however, very rarely visit theprovinces of North Holland and Friesland, butgenerally proceed from Amsterdam to Utrecht,&c. &c.Excursion to Sardam, or Zaardam. -Four boatsgo regularly in succession every day from Amsterdam; but as the crews of these vessels are notalways the most civil, it is better for a companyto hire a boat to themselves. With a favourablewind the passage is soon made, and being oncehalf a mile from land, the eye embraces the wholebasin of Amsterdam; the effect produced by theCOTTAGE OF PETER THE GREAT. 83number of masts, trees, towers, chimneys, &c.seen altogether, is not easily conceivable. Thepassage to Sardam, and back again, is commonlyfrom six to nine florins. To take a proper viewof this village requires the best part of a day. Itis necessary to be very particular with the schipper as to the point where you would go ashore.All the opulence, neatness, and industry of theHollanders seems as if concentrated at Sardam.The inhabitants of the two villages of East andWest Sardam are upwards of 10,000 in number,mostly merchants; of the cleanness ofthe streetsthere is scarcely any conception. The houses arepainted with different colours, and offer a verysingular appearance; but the windmills here excite the greatest astonishment in strangers; thesemills, for making of paper, and sawing timber,2300 in number, are constructed of stone, andvery lofty, and, like the houses, painted with different colours. No person should neglect visitingthe little house called Furstenburg, which was occupied by Peter the Great, when he was learningthe art of ship-building; it stands in a garden,and was visited by the late Emperor Paul.An old woman lives in this cottage, and subsistschiefly by shewing it to visitors; amongst whomhave been the present Emperor Alexander, who ordered a medal to be struck in commemorationof the event. The old woman has also receivedone of these medals from the present Empress,together with a grant of a small annuity during life.SAARDAM has a number of good inns; at theLoutre they dress excellent fish; but to preventimposition, it is necessary to make a previousagreement as to the price.3Here are the saw-mills so often spoken of, by84 TOBACCO, OIL MILLS, &c.The flies which forty planks can be cut at once.ofthe mill are fixed to a large beam, which turnson an axle; in the centre ofthis beam is the grandwheel, which puts in motion another immediatelybelow it, this is likewise fixed on the middle of apiece of timber, which hangs on an axle, and towhich four perpendicular saws, ten in each compartment, are fixed; which, as the wheel goesround, are elevated, and again thrust down: atthe end of this beam are two iron hooks, whichcatch a wheel, and each time the saws go up anddown, it moves this wheel one cog, that wheelmoves another, which catches into a piece of iron,and draws it towards itself: at the end ofthis ironis a cross bar, which presses against the end of thetree, while the other end is sawing, and pushes it on to the teeth of the saw, with a motion proportionate to the despatch ofthe saws.Here is also a tobacco-mill, in which is a largetrough full ofthe leaf: ten or twelve perpendicular pieces of timber, with choppers fixed to oneend and cogs to the other, which catch in a wheelas it turns, by which they are lifted up, fall bytheirown weight, and chop the tobacco small; it is thenlaid on a stone table, on which move two immensestones, one within the other, the first spreads it, amachine ofwood follows and collects it into a row,which a piece of iron comes after, and divides intoafurrow, wide enough for the pressure of the otherstone; all these move at the same time, and turnon the same axle.The oil- mill for rape- seed, &c. is on the sameprinciple, to bruise them into powder, which isthen put into a pan over the fire for a moment, fromthence into little bags, two of which are put intoa press, one at each end, which are pressed by awedge in the middle, and force the oil into vasesBROCK, THE TEXEL, &c.85below; the bags are then slipped off, and the dustremains a hard cake, with which they feed the cattle.Next to SARDAM, Brock in North Holland,only six miles distant, is highly interesting to thestranger. The streets of this singular village aredivided by little rivulets, and the houses and summer-houses, all of wood, painted green and white,are very handsome. The inhabitants are so rich,that many of their kitchen utensils are said to beformed of solid gold . The front shutters of thehouses are always shut, and the principal entrancenever opened but on the marriage or death of oneof the family. The pavement of the street, curiously formed of little pebbles and co*ckle- shells,is kept in such order, by being shined and rubbedbright, that a dog or a cat are never seen to trespass upon it. At the entry of several of the doorsslippers are placed for the visitors, &c. and as noperson is permitted to keep an inn in the town, itis necessary for strangers to go to the end of it toget any accommodation, But, in the true Dutchtaste, the gardens of this village exhibit deer,dogs, peaco*cks, tables, and letters cut out in box.The country about Brock is called Waterland;but though much has been said of the cleanlinessof this place, the Dutch themselves laugh at theaffected nicety of the people of Brock.THE TEXEL.THIS is the largest island in the Zuyder Sea.It is divided from the shore of North Holland bya torrent called Mars Diep. In 1629-30, byI.86 SHEEP WITH SHORT TAILS.means of a dyke, they added to the Texel a pieceof land called Eierland, before a separate island.The soil here is very fertile; a number of sheepare fed here, and the flocks are said to producecheese. The Texel sheepur known by theirshort tails from those of South Holland, in general very long. The eastern side of the Texelaffords a commodious harbour, known by thename of the road ofMoscow; ships riding hereare protected by a fort at the village of Schild,not far off. An east or north- east wind is necessaryto pass through Mars Diep, and this is what iscalled being stationed at the Texel. The entranceis very dangerous, particularly in rough weather,because it is necessary to pass between two sandbanks, called the Noorder and Zuider Haaks.Embden, formerly one of the most importanttrading towns, is the capital of the province ofEast Frieseland, at the mouth of the river Ems.The ships built here are very durable, and capable of being managed with very few hands.Embden was made a free port in 1751; its harbour is very safe and commodious, but vesselsthat draw above twelve or thirteen feet water, areobliged to unload in the road about two milesdistant from the town. Besides four dock-yardsfor accommodating and building of vessels, thelargest men, of war may anchor in the port, and acanal conveys vessels close up to the town. Herethe town- house, the arsenal, the new church, thegreat church, and the monument of Count John,are remarkable objects. The trade of Embdenwas considerably increased by the war of the revolution, several commercial companies being established.Trade and Manufactures. -Worsted stockings,soap, leather, cotton, &c.CHEESES, FISHERIES, &C. STMONIKEDAM, about eight miles from Amsterdam, is remarkable for its neatness, though it hassuffered greatly from fire, having twice been burnt down.Four miles beyond Monikedam, stands EDAM,famous for its cheeses; the land about it, formerly a lake, is now planted with gardens and or- chards.PURMEREND is situated at the extremity of amarsh called Purmer, and to the north of this is thesmiling country of the Beemster, where the pasturage is esteemed the best in Holland. This wasformerly a lake seven leagues in extent.HOORN is a strong and considerable town ofWest Friesland, twenty two miles from Amsterdam, seated on the Zuyder Sea; the excellenceofits Haven gives it great advantages in trade: itsherring fishery is very considerable, and most ofthe cheese and other produce of North Holland isexported from this place. The trade ofthis placeconsists in ship-building, and in fattening cattlewhich are brought from Denmark.Hoorn was the birth-place of the celebratedSchoutens, the best pilot of his age. The first netfor catching large herrings was also made here in1416, since which period herring busses were firstused by the inhabitants here.ENKHUYSEN is eight miles from Hoorn, and takesits name from the Dutch words enkele huyzen, orsomehouses, having been formerly only a fewfishermen's huts. Two thirds of this town are enclosed by the sea, which makes it a peninsula .Theharbour is large and commodious, the streetsvery clean, and cut through with a great numberof canals. It is strong by art and nature, andthough surrounded by the sea, has plenty ofgoodwater. The banks are strong; the houses are1 288 MEDEMBLICK, ALKMAAR, &c.neat and handsome and the place has a considerable trade in herrings and salt- fish. The wayfrom Hoorn to this place is so variegated by thenumber ofvillages upon it, that one might imagine it to be a garden; but Enkhuysen owes everything to its situation on the Zuyder Sea. It wasone ofthe first towns that embarked in the herringfishery. Here is a fine cannon foundery.MEDEMBLICK is eight miles from Enkhuysen,and was anciently the capital of North Holland;at present most of the inhabitants are timber-merchants, and trade chiefly to Norway and otherplaces ofthe North.The land here is lower than the waters, forwhich reason in extraordinary storms, when thewater is ready to run over or break the dykes, theinhabitants lay rails along them, in order to weaken the force of the waves, which generallyproduces the desired effect.ALKMAAR is seventeen miles from Medemblick,through rich meadows and villages, thick andwell peopled; the inhabitants are employed inmaking nets; and the town is surrounded by agreat number of gardens, orchards, and rich meadows. A great trade is carried on here in butterand cheese, and that of flowers, particularly oftulips, occupies a part of the inhabitants. It wasnear this place that the treaty was signed betweenthe Duke of York and Marshal Brune in 1799,by which the safe retreat of his Royal Highnesswas insured.butWORCUM is twelve miles from Alkmaar in theprovince of Friesland; the town is but small; itis, however, situated in a plentiful country,the inhabitants are exposed to great danger frominundations by sea, when the wind is at west or north-west.BRICKS AND VARIOUS ARTICLES. 89BOLSWERT is seven miles from Worcum, andLEUWARDEN, thirteen more, this is the capitalcity ofthe province of Friesland, it is now abovethree miles in compass: it had formerly severalgood church livings, for which reason it had thehonour of being one of those bishopricks whichPope Paul erected in 1559. The reformation,however, did not give the new bishops timeto settle,for the protestants took possession ofit in 1575.Manufactures, &c.-Between this place and Harlinguen, there is a number of tile-kilns , wherethey make tiles covered with a blue varnish.LEUWARDEN has also a good castle, four stronggates, with some well built churches. It was theusualresidence ofthe Prince of Orange, hereditaryStadtholder, before the revolution in 1747, whenhe was called to the Hague.Here is a university with a good library and abotanical garden. Klein Lankum, a mile and a halffrom hence was the residence of the celebratedCamper. One of his sons continues to increasehis father's vast collection of minerals and petrifications.HARLINGUEN nextto Leuwarden, produces thegreatest quantity of salt and an infinite number ofexcellent bricks which exported from here, is atthis place, as well as Franecker, the principal article of commerce.DOCKUM, twelve miles from Leuwarden is oneofthe most ancient towns in Friesland: it is smallbut tolerably well fortified, and neatly built. TheStadt-house is a handsome edifice near a great ca→ual remarkable for its fine bridge, under whichvessels may pass. The preparing of salt occupiesa number of hands in this place; and the cheeseand butter here is prized on account ofits superiorflavour.1390 BOOK AND WELL OF ST. BONIFACE.They shew here a book of the gospels writtenby St. Boniface, the apostle of this country, in thereign of Pepin king of France. They have a pretty good trade, owing to the convenience of theriver Aa, which coming from Leuwarden, fallsabout four miles below Dockum into a gulph ofthe German ocean, where it forms a good harbourfor vessels of small burthen, which come from theBaltic, and sail through this river up to Leuwarden.Here is also the well ofSt. Boniface, which supplies the town with good water. The wood in theneighbourhood, where it is said this saint was assassinated by the pagans, still bears the name of Mordeners wolde murderer's wood.Manufactures, &c.-Butter, cheese, and greatquantities of salt.GRONINGUENis twentymiles farther; here is avery great market and the Gothic tower of St. Martin, is higher that any other in the country; youascend to it by a staircase of 400 steps. The university has a handsome library and upwards of anhundred students; great numbers of horses arebred in this province. A number of petreficationsare found near this place.Groninguen in the fifteenth century, gave birthto Wesselius Gansfortius sur- named the light oftheworld. About twenty years since M. Guyot, a descendant from a French Refugee, established an institution here, for the benefit of the deafand dumb-the environs ofthis place are called the Ommelands.WINSCHOOTEN is at the distance oftwenty milesfrom Dockum; a paltry town, though well fortified; but its principal strength is from its situation, amongst the marshes, which would much incommode an army.RESIDENCE OF THOMAS A KEMPIS. 91Winschooten is celebrated for the victory overthe Spaniards, by the Prince of Orange, in 1568.COEVERDEN, thirty- nine miles distant, is situated in a low marsh; it represents the figure ofa pentagon, and is very strong. The bishop ofMunster made himself master ofit in 1672, but theDutch retook it the same year. It is esteemedthekey ofthe Provinces of Groninguen and Friesland, as it commands the pass out of the bishoprickofMunster into those provinces.ZWOLL.From Coeverden to Zwoll the distance is thirtyfive miles; this is a rich mercantile town upon theAa. The great church and the market are veryfine; the carving ofthe pulpit in the former is admirable; and people ascend to the top of thechurch by a single staircase. The house of correction is a great square building. The ci- devantconvent upon Mount St. Agnes, was the residenceofThomas à Kempis.DEVENTER, twelve miles from Zwoll, is situatedin a province of Overyssel. It is a large and populous city, strongly fortified with walls, andflanked with agreat many bastions, and the ditchesfilled with the waters of the Yssel. It was for .merly one ofthe Hans-towns, and an Imperial city.It stands in a pleasant country, abounding in pasture and arable lands. The beer of this place isexcellent. Thomas à Kempis had a celebratedschool at Deventer, in the year 1389.The tower of Norenberg is round; the wallsofbrick and stone, seventeen feet thick, and ofsuch dimensions, that it requires a large garrison.to defend it.ZUTPHEN is eight miles farther, and is situated92 GALLANTRY OF SIR PHILIP SYDNEY.in the midst of drained fens, but is, nevertheless,supposed to have a very wholesome air. It is alarge and well built town, and strongly fortified;the public buildings deserve notice, particularly abridge over the river Borkel. The Stadt-house ofZutphen deserves notice.It was in the siege of Zutphen that Sir PhilipSidney received a mortal wound; a person who isdescribed by the writers ofthe age he lived in, asthe most perfect model ofan accomplished gentleman, that could be formed even by the wantonimagination of poetry or fiction, virtuous conduct,polite conversation, known valour, and eleganterudition, concurred to render him the ornamentand delight of the English court. In this last action, while he was lying on the field mangled withwounds, a bottle of water was brought him to relieve his thirst; but observing a soldier near himin a like miserable condition, he said, This man'snecessity is still greater than mine, and resigned tohim the bottle of water. Zutphen being on theBorkel, may be easily inundated by means ofthisriver, which divides the town in two.Persons who wish to proceed to Lingen, maypass the Ems in a wherry. The castle of CLEMENSWERTH, in the vicinity of HASELUVEN, andits fine chapel, merit the attention ofthe curious. -Loo is a noble structure of modern architecture;its gardens and fountains, particularly one calledthe basin of Venus, are admirable. It is well calculated for a hunting seat, being situated in themidst ofheaths. The cities of Zutphen and Deventer are in its vicinity. The way to Loo byAMERSFORT is sandy; but through RHENEN andARNHEIM extremely pleasant.BOIS LE DUC, twenty- five miles fromGrave, is astrong place uponthe Dommel, andthetown-houseSINGULAR FREEZING OF THE WAÁL. 93is a miniature picture of that at Amsterdam. St.John's church is magnificent. Here is also a college -the Fort of Crevecoeur, inthe vicinity, owesits origin to an exclamation used by Louis XIV.when his grenadiers were repulsed in an assault made upon it.Manufactures, &c. -Cloths, needles, knives,and hardware in general.BOMMEL is twelve miles from Bois le Duc; itis situated on the north shore of the river Waal.This city is the capital of a country called theBommel Waert, an island formed by the Waal andthe Maese, about twelve miles long, and fourbroad. On the west point of this island standsthe castle of Lovestein, where the patriotic chiefswere imprisoned by prince Maurice, whence thatparty was afterwards known by the name of theLovestein party.The island of Bommel, fell into the hands of theFrench on the 28th of December, 1794, after anaction, in which the English were defeated. Thepassage ofthe Maese, which was effected by threecolumns of troops opposite this island, opened theway to the conquest of Holland, by the army ofthe north, under General Pichegru. The cold wasthen so excessive, that the Waal, and other rivers,were covered with ice sufficient to admit the passage ofartillery without danger."CUYLENBURG, about twelve miles distant, is aneat town, situated on the banks ofthe Leck; theadjacent country abounds with pleasant walks,and beautiful villages. This place used to be asanctuary to the unfortunate debtor, who mightbuy the freedom of the town, and then he couldnot be called to an account by any court ofjusticein the Seven Provinces, without the consent of the94 UTRECHT AND ITS CURIOSITIES.magistrate so f Cuylenburg. Here is a large manufactory of arms.WYK, about nine miles up the Leck, is a veryancient place, and some affirm that it had formerlyfifty churches. There is a castle that is thoughtto have been built by Drusus, but is now fallen todecay.UTRECHT is twenty miles from Wyk, thirtymiles south-east of Amsterdam, and twenty-fivenorth-east of Rotterdam.Of all the excursions made in Holland, thatfrom Amsterdam to Utrecht, is the most agreeable.In a treckschuyt it may be made in eight hours.At Niewesluis, the fine country houses, and thegardens called Burten Plaatsen, begin to maketheir appearance; they mostly belong to the inhabitants of Amsterdam, and are on both sides ofthe Vecht. Here the prospect changes almostevery moment; nearly all the gardens are bordered with the finest tulips. As almost every househas a particular name, one of the finest is calledRechstroom. Near the village of Beureln, thecanal is about fifty paces broad. It is on thisparticular spot, that the taste ofthe Hollanders, intheir gardening, is seen to the best advantage."Utrecht is a large and populous city upon theRhine. The Mall, or the walks about this city,are admirable; seven ofthese running in parallellines, are not less than 2000 paces in length,beautifully planted with trees, and have threeothers traversing them. The cathedral and theviews from its tower including more than twentycities, are reckoned amongst the wonders of theplace. At the castle Loo, in the vicinity ofUtrecht, thepen which signed the peace ofRyswick,is still shown. The approach to Utrecht is en-FINE PROSPECT FROM THE TOWER, &c. 95tirely through walks of trees, villas and gardens.Over the two canals, the NewGraft, and the Vaert,are thirty-six stone bridges.The famous peace ofUtrecht in 1713, was signed in the great hall of the academy of this place.Here is a botanic garden, a public library, andseveral literary societies, various collections ofpictures, and natural history, are in the possessionofopulent individuals.This city being a sort ofcapital, for the nobility,is called the politest in the United Provinces, andcertainly abounds more than any other with theprofessions and trades, which are subservient toluxury and refinement.Utrecht has a University, but with as little appearance of such an institution as that of Leyden.The students have no academical dress; and theirhalls, which are used only for lectures and exercises, are formed in the cloisters of the ancientcathedral. The chief sign of their residence inthe place is, that the householders, who havelodgings to let, write in Latin upon a board, as isdone at Leyden, Cubicula locanda, i. e. lodgings to let.The only substantial remains ofthe cathedral,are, one aisle, in which divine service is performed, and a lofty, magnificent Gothic tower, thatstands apart from it. The ascent of this tower isone of those labours performed by strangers, and,laborious as it is, the view from the summit wellrewards the trouble. A stone staircase, steep,narrow, and winding, after passing several grateddoors, leads into a floor, which you hope is thetop, but which is little more than half way up.Here the family of the belfrey-man fill severaldecently- furnished apartments, and shew the greatbell, with several others, the noise of which it96 VIEW OF SIXTY MILES, &c.might be supposed no human ears could bear, asthese people must, at only the distance of a fewyards.After resting some minutes in a room, the windows ofwhich command, perhaps, a more extended land-view than any other inhabited apartmentin Europe, you begin the second ascent by a staircase still narrower and steeper, and, when youseem to be so weary as to be incapable of anotherstep, half the borizon suddenly bursts upon theview, and all your complaints are overborne byexpressions of admiration.Towards the west, the prospect, after includingthe rich shew of gardens near Utrecht, extendsover the province of Holland, intersected withwater, speckled with towns, and finally boundedby the sea, the mists of which hide the low shoresfrom the sight. To the northward, the ZuyderSea spreads its haziness over Amsterdam andNaarden; but from thence to the east, the spiresof Amersfort, Rhenen, Arnheim, Nimeguen, andmany intermediate towns, are seen amongst thewoods and hills that gradually rise towards Ger- many. Southward are the mountainous districtsof Cleves, and then the level parts of Guelderland and Holland, with the windings ofthe Waaland the Leck, in which the Rhine loses itself completely; thus a circle of probably more than sixtymiles diameter, strains the sight from this tremendous steeple. The almost perpendicular viewinto the streets of Utrecht affords afterward somerelief to the eye, but strengthens any apprehensions of danger you may before have entertained,from observing that the open-workGothicparapet,which alone prevents you from falling with dizziness, has suffered in the general decay of the church.UTRECHT AND ITS ENVIRONS. 97The Mall is esteemed the principal ornamentof Utrecht, and is perhaps the only avenue of thesort in Europe, still fit to be used for the gamewhich gives its name to them all . The several rows ofnoble trees include at the side both roadsand walks, but the centre is laid out for the gameof Mall, and though not often used, is in perfectpreservation. It is divided so as to admit twoparties of players at once, and the side boardssufficiently restrain spectators.The environs of Utrecht are beautiful: there isan establishment of the Moravian brotherhood atZeyst, and a pillar erected by the French armyin honour of Napoleon. From Utrecht to Oudenarde, the passage in a yacht is delightful; it willOccupy about an hour and a half. OUDENARDEhas a number of handsome country- houses: it isabout twelve miles from Amsterdam. Pursuingthis course, the Isle of Mark is distinguished forits wildness, and the manners ofits inhabitants.The house of Admiral Van Tromp is at Gravesande, and presents a singular appearance, beingbuilt in the form of a ship, and placed in the midstofthe water. This was the birth- place of PopeAdrian VI. and John Leusden, a celebrated phi- lologist of the eighteenth century. Travellersshould be careful to enter Utrecht before nine inthe evening, when a bell always rings for theshutting of the larger gates, as, like the tower ofLondon, the rules of a walled town are always observed here.Inns. The Chateau D'Anvers is an excellentinn: there is an air of English completeness aboutit, that the other inns of Holland seldom reach.Manufactures, &c.-The silk manufactories hereare worthy ofattention, particularly the machinesfor winding that article. Fire-arms, thimbles,K98 PLEASANT VILLAGES AND TOWNS.laces, and sewing-silk are also manufactured here.About three miles from Utrecht is ZEYLEN, apleasant village; and further on MAERSEN, onceinhabited by Portuguese Jews. The canal between Utrecht and Leyden is about thirty milesin length. DE MEEREN is the first village, andHamelen the next, where Professor Burman hada house. About nine miles from Utrecht is WOERDEN, once esteemed the key of the province, being fortified with a double rampart. Bodegraveand Swammerdam, a little further, were placesthat excited some notice in the war of 1672.ALPHEN, a village about nine miles from Leyden,situated on both sides of the canal, has been reckoned the finest in that part of the country, andsupposed by some antiquaries to have been Antonine's Albiniana Castra, or the camp of AlphenusVarus, the Bataviangeneral mentioned by Tacitus.ROMBURCH too, between Alphen and Leyden, ismore celebrated for its antiquity than beauty.On the other side of Utrecht, by means of theVaert or canal which runs into the Leck, a goodinland trade is carried on. Several pretty villasdecorate its banks. ROTSOORT is famous for itsgrottoes. ISELSTEIN is on the river Yssel; andVRESWICK, a well-built town, lies on the Leck,over which is the passage to VIANEN. Six milesfurther is Buren, in Guelderland, with a noblehospital for poor children, founded in 1614, by aPrincess of Orange, and not far from hence thethree pretty towns of LEERDAM, HOCKELOM, and ASPEREN.The Crommer, that runs between Wyk andUtrecht, has many good seats on its banks; infact these abound along the whole extent of theroad between Utrecht, Rhenen, and Arnheim,upwards ofthirty miles.$AMERSFORT AND NIMUEGEN. 99Amersfort, the second town in the province ofUtrecht, is a place of considerable trade, agreeably situated in the midst of meadows, fertile ingrain and pastures. Jaques de Campe, the architect ofthe Hotel de Ville, of Amsterdam, is interred near the choir ofthe reformed church. Itis seated at the foot ofa little eminence, wateredby the Eem, which forms a number of rivulets,but is navigable to its source. All the merchandize brought from Germany, and intended for Amsterdam, is embarked here.Manufactures.-Glass coffee-pots, very difficultto distinguish as such, dimities, bombazeens.NIMUEGEN, upon the Waal, the bulwark of theUnited Provinces on this side, is about six milesfrom Arnheim, and fifty-two south- east ofAmster- dam.瞿Here is a swing bridge, which is partly laidover boats, and partly over barges that float fromthe boats to the shore. It is divided, because thestream is occasionally too rapid to permit anentire range of boats between the two banks. Itis thus, for one half, a bridge ofboats; and, forthe other, a flying bridge which last part is capable of containing several carriages, and joins tothe other so exactly as not to occasion the least interruption. It is also railed (a rare thing in someparts ofthe continent) for the safety of foot passengers. The price for a carriage is about twentypence, which the toll- men carefully collect, assoon as the demi-bridge has begun its voyage; itis set in motion every hour till sun-set. It istherefore necessary to be at it by that time, or youwill have to wait till the next day for a passage.The old castle, called the Falkenhoff, where thefamous peace was concluded in 1678, containingK 2100 WAGENINGEN, ARNHEIM, &c.the portraits of the different ambassadors thatconcluded it, is worth inspection. Here is alsoshewn the sword with which the Counts Egmontand Horn were beheaded. From a gallery upona kind of tower on the Waal, there is a most delightful prospect. The KELVERBOSCH is a pro- menade between rows of lime trees. Besides thecastle, where the Burgrave of Nimuegen used toreside, the large Calvinist church of St. Stephen;the Lutheran church; the French Calvinist andfive Catholic churches; the delightful promenadeof Kalverbosch; the Belvidere, are the principalthings that deserve notice. The inhabitants subsist chiefly by brewing of ale, and by their tradewith the adjacent Duchy of Cleve.WAGENINGEN, between Nimuegen and Utrecht,is a pretty little place, and communicates by wa- ,ter with the Rhine, from which vessels come upclose to the town. Great quantities of tobaccoare cultivated in its environs, in which is also thegarden of Roozendaal, one ofthe finest in Guelderland.Inn.-White Swan.Manufactures.-Excellent white beer, &c.ARNHEIM, ten miles north of Nimuegen, issituated upon a branch of the Naas, at the foot ofthe mountain Veluwe. The ramparts, plantedwith trees, form a charming promenade. Thechurch of St. Eusebius, among other ancient monuments, contains those ofthe Dukes and Countsof Guelderland, and that of Charles D'Egmont,surnamed the Turbulent. Here the Dutch language begins to lose itself in the German.Inns.-The White Eagle and the GoldenPlough.DOESBURG, near Arnlicim, is a strong place atthe confluence ofthe old and new Yssel. On theMAESTRICHT, GARDENS, &c. 101opposite shore you see the castle Duren. Thebed ofthe Yssel is said to be the canal of Drusus,dug by the son- in- law of Augustus.MAESTRICHT is seated on the Maese, which separates it from Wyck, with which it communicatesonly by a bridge. This city revolted from Spainin 1570; was retaken by the Prince of Parma in1579, and again by Frederick Henry, Prince ofOrange, in 1632. Louis XIV. took it in 1673;but in 1678 it was restored to the Dutch. Thislarge and strong place was again taken by theFrench in 1794, after the trenches had beenopened against it only fifteen days.The glass- house at Wyckis worth seeing, as isthe church of St. Sevace, the breweries, &c. Thestone quarry of St. Peter's here has been continued so long, and is so extensive, that it is becomea labyrinth so inextricable as not to be equalled.Among the numerous fossils found in these vastsubterranean works, two heads ofcrocodiles havebeen particularly distinguished; one of these wasdeposited in the Museum of Natural History ofParis; the other, a skeleton, was to be seen inthe central school at Maestricht. The garden ofthe ci-devant convent of Slavante, the Veythoff,and the market, are fine views; and there arewalks alongthe ramparts on the side ofthe Maese.Aboat goes every day from Maestricht to Liege,and makes the passage in six hours; two schellings is the cabin price.Next to the general beauty of the buildings inMaestricht, the Maison de Ville naturally offersitself to the stranger's attention. It is a regularsquare building, constructed offree-stone crownedwith a very handsome tower, which contains somevery good chimes. It is situated in the centre ofthe Place Publique, and the interior is as regularK3102 SUBTERRANEAN LABYRINTHI, &c.and as handsome as the exterior. One of theapartments up stairs contains a well-chosen library.But though the inhabitants of Maestricht aregenerally active and industrious, there are fewmanufactories among them, dressing of leatherexcepted. Here are no wholesale merchants, andas trade is confined merely to retail, the acquisition of large fortunes is very rare; however, decentand easy circ*mstances appear to be general. Itis very rare to meet a mendicant. The fine artshere are not in the highest state of cultivation,though some amateurs of painting are in possession ofa few good pictures.Besides the blue marble and brick for building, a yellowish kind of stone is used here,rather soft at first, but hardening in process oftime. This is brought from the immense quarriesin the celebrated mountain of St. Peter, so wellworthy the attention of every curious traveller.M. Faujas de St. Fond has published a very copious description of the subterranean labyrinthenclosed in the bowels of this mountain, whichextends along the shore of the Meuse, commencing at the gates of the town. If reports onthe spot are to be credited, this incomparable labyrinth, though completely subterraneous, contains more than a hundred thousand streets, orroutes, none less than twelve feet in breadth,though the height of these passages vary, beingfrom that of a man to twenty- four feet. Uponthe spot called Le Trou, au Loup, from which thesky may be seen, notwithstanding the depth ofthe mountain, there is always, during summerand winter, a small portion of ice, formed out ofthe snow, which falls into this aperture. The latter, the country people say, was originally a wellCURIOUS INSTINCT IN HORSES. 103made by the French, in the hope of finding water,while they were besieging Fort St. Pierre, situ- ated upon this mountain.But that there are not so many of these subterranean passages as formerly, has arisen fromthe careless practice of many of the proprietors,who, in digging for stone, have destroyed severalportions of it that had previously served as pillars for supporting the masses above them. Thisblind avarice has been the cause of the falling inof several parts of the mountain, which of coursehave choked up a number of the passages intheinterior. Those that remain, however, form socomplete a labyrinth, that no prudent person willenter it without a guide; and it is asserted, thatthere are not above twelve persons on the spot,who are well acquainted with these subterraneanways. Even those who undertake to conductothers through them, trust more to the instinct oftheir horses than to their own judgment. Withthis view, they hang a lantern to the neck of thesesagacious animals, well knowing, that having beenpreviously conducted by any of these routes, they will never fail in returning the same way.A boat goes from hence to Liege every day,and makes the passage in six hours.Inns.-The Three Kings, and the Windmillupon the Veythoff.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.— Curiouscabinet work and japanned goods; the toilet tables of Spa are sold from three and four guineasto sixty each: tweezers and other curious articlesin ivory:TONGRES stands in the road from Maestrichtto Louvain. This was formerly very considerable, and the chief place of Belgic Gaul. TheRomans made it a place ofarms. In consequence104 TONGRES AND ITS SPRINGS.of the discovery ofa number of medals and otherantiquities, an inhabitant of Tongres has formed averyinteresting collection. The chalybeate springhere, enclosed in a kind of square pavilion, isconstructed of wood, and decorated with someIonic pillars. It bears the following inscriptions:Præclarus Tungrensium FonsDe novo extollitur.Fons hic saxifragusFebrifugusque salit.Renibus et stomachoSplene, jecorique medetur.Pellere scorbutum natus Ab ore malum.Quem ferruginei fert Plinius esse saporis.The passage here referred to in Pliny runsthus: Tungri civitas Galliæ, fontem habet insignem, plurimis bullis stellantem, ferruginei saporis: quod ipsum non nisi in fine potûs intelligitur. Purgat hic corpora tertianus febres discutit, calculorumque vitia. Eadem aqua, igneadmoto turbida fit: ac postremo rubescit."LANDEN was the cradle of the Carlovingiandynasty, in the person of Pepin of Landen. Toarrive here from Liege it is necessary to passthrough St. Trond and Tirlemont; then enteringinto the ci-devant Brabant, travellers may eitherproceed on the high road, or quitting that, followa raised pathway to the left, which, in less thanan hour, will bring them to Landen, once so distinguished as one of the most ancient cities ofBrabant, but which at present presents no otherappearance than that of a large mass of peasants'houses, enclosed by ruined walls and a ditch,though in extent not much greater than the parkANTIQUITIES OF LANDEN, &c.: 105at Brussels, are all the remains of a castle once sofamous. The ancient city, it is understood, wasat least three quarters of a mile from the modernvillage, and from hence it was at length foundnecessary to transfer the church. The names ofseveral places about the village seem to affordsufficient proof of the real situation of the formerresidence of Pepin; such, for instance, as Pepin'sHoff, or Pepin's Court, near six miles from Landen, to which the great road runs in a direct line.There is also Rath's Hoven, or the Court of theCouncil; Allen Hoven, or the Old Court; GotzenHoven, Gosson Court; Arent Garden, or the Falconry; ho*ren Garden, or the Garden of theConcubines; most of which names are more orless corrupted by abbreviation, though the primitive pronunciation still retained is an evident demonstration of their derivation from the Franks,or Germans, and not from the Gauls.Not far from LANDEN the plain of NEERWINDEN, commonly excites the curiosity of the traveller, on account of a famous battle gained byMarshal Luxembourg, and the more recent lossof another by General Dumourier.TIRLEMONT, twelve miles south- east of Louvain, and twenty-one north of Namur, thoughonce a considerable town, has been much injuredby the war, but nevertheless carries on at presenta tolerable trade in grain and spirits. A church here in the Grand Place is served by canons, whoare all married men, and who, on this account,are distinguished by the appellation of pretres apoule, i. e. " pullet priests.106 VARIOUS BOATS AND CARRIAGES.CHAP. III.Route through Flanders.Miles. Hours.From Namur to Liege...... 30 7Liege to Limburg.. 26 63Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle.. 6 14 Liege to Brussels...... 50 14 Brussels to Antwerp... ........... .. 24 6Brussels to Ghent... ... 25 6Ghent to Bruges .22 51 Bruges to Ostend.... 12TRAVELLERS who choose to visit Flanders without proceeding to Germany, or any part of theLow Countries, will find ample accommodationby land or water. A coach goes from the Hagueto Brussels every day; another carriage fromCharloo, on the other side of the Maese, carriespassengers to Antwerp, or Breda, on the sameday. If the wind is fair, a schuyt from Rotterdam reaches Antwerp in twenty-four hours, andfrom Antwerp to Brussels, either by land or water, is not more than half a day's journey.One ofthe best routs to Flanders is by the wayof OSTEND.Packet boats sail every Sunday morning fromGravesend to Ostend. There is a cutterfitted upin the most commodious manner, containing twentycabins sufficient for the accommodation oftwice asmany passengers, not met with even on board theKing's packets from Dover or Harwich, whichare often crowded with four times the number ofpeople.The passage from Gravesend across to OstendOSTEND AND ITS VICINITY. 107is often performed considerably within twelvehours. The entrance of Ostend being extremelydifficult, and unsafe, except during high water, onaccount of a bar of sand at its mouth, there is asignal staff, on which a flag is hoisted when thewater is sufficient for carrying ina moderate sizedvessel, and the height ofthe water is exactly marked by flags of different colours.Ostend is not strongly fortified; its chief protection was in its dykes and sluices; on the northeastfrom Bruges and Blakenberg, great pains havebeen taken in barricading the different passes andentrances to the town, by rows of piles and treesdriven in the ground about six feet high, and cutpointed at the top. Ostend consists of severallong paved streets; in the centre of which, is anopen square, the chief building being the Townhouse, an extensive range of building, but nothing elegant, formerly the seat of justice underBonaparte, ofthe different tribunals, &c.The basin and dock-yard are full of vessels ofall sizes, which, during the late war, had most oftheir bottoms rotting out; this too was the casewith the gun-boats that threatened destruction toOld England somefew years since. Many ofthemconsist of barges of the largest size, with a deckand a traversing carriage on which, was mountedaforty two pounder.The Cour Imperial, kept by Davoust's nephew,is the packet inn, and the Hotel d'Angleterre affords good accommodations. This place havingbeen so many years strongly garrisoned by theFrench, their manners and language have beengenerally adopted here.From Ostend you may proceed to the city ofBruges by canal conveyance, by far the most pleasant and most reasonable of any other kind of tra-"108 ROUTE FROM OSTEND TO BRUGES.velling in this part of the country; you proceed atthe regular rate of four miles and anhalf per hour,whilst the Cabriolet, or Diligence, over the pavé,or road full of holes, shakes every limb, andhardly exceeds the same rate. You may proceed in a row boat for about half a mile up the canal toa basin and strong fort, called Fort St. Philip,where the Transchuyt, or barge, lies at the village of Slykens. Great pains have been taken here forthe protection of Ostend, by the land side fromBlankenberg and Bruges, and innumerable sluicesare capable of inundating the whole of the surrounding country. The barge is very neatly fittedup, with separate cabins according to the price,and towed by horses, assisted by a sail, ifthe windis fair.

The journey from Ostend to Bruges is abouttwelve miles, and is performed in three hours. Thebanks of the canal are agreeably diversified byseveral pleasant villages and small farms. Youleave Ostend about five o'clock in the morning,and during this stage, if it may be so termed, youare supplied with breakfast, consisting of tea andcoffee, eggs, &c. of the best quality, and verycleanly served. The expense, including the passage, is one and eight pence in the best cabin, orone shilling in the second.Bruges is a city very pleasantly situated, surrounded by canals, which are navigable for vesselsof five hundred tons burthen, and the quays areextremely commodious; but the grass, in severalparts of this city, was lately growing to the water's edge.The houses and buildings of Bruges are verylarge and ancient, possessing the remains of theirformer grandeur and opulence, but were till latelymostly shut up, or only a room or two inhabitedSTEEPLE AND CHIMES AT BRUGES. 109bythe remains ofa family, or an old servant sufficient to retain possession; many ofthe houses haveforty orfifty windows in front. Numerous are thereligious houses now lying in ruins, and parts oftheir once statelychapels, and edifices are occupiedbyprivate families, who have purchased them.The circumference of Bruges may be reckonedat about four miles; the streets are about threehundred in number, and are in general spacious.It is badly supplied with water, the best is thatbrought from Ghent, by pipes from therivers Lysand Scheldt. Bruges has, however, been long onthe decline, and Antwerp so advantageously situated on the banks ofa considerable river has, fromits rival, long become its superior.The steeple at the top of the Grand Market isreckoned one ofthe most beautiful of the kind inEurope; it has 533 steps in height, and is fur- nished with an excellent set ofcarillons, or chimes,which play every quarter of an hour. There areseveral good churches at Bruges; the cathedralis dedicated to St. Donat, and is most superbly decorated with sculpture, and paintings of the firstFlemish masters; but the principal treasure ofgoldand silver, which added to the splendour of theseedifices, has all been carried away by the French,or concealed by the inhabitants; yet the grandeurof these catholic places of worship far exceed anyin England, both in architecture and ornament.The church of Notre Dame is reckoned the mostbeautiful, and its steeple is a sea-mark to sailorscoming into Ostend.The general conveyance from hence to Gand,or Ghent, is by anoble canal in a boat, which setsout every morning at nine o'clock; another setsout at the same time from Ghent, and arrives at L110 CONVENIENCES OF TRAVELLING.four o'clock in the afternoon. These boats are extremely commodious, exceeding in beauty and convenience the Dutch treckschuyts; they arehandsomely fitted up, and the ease, comfort, andcheapness ofthis conveyance need only be known,to induce all persons travelling, either for pleasureor business, to Holland, Antwerp, and all parts ofthe north and east of France, to take the roadthrough Flanders; not forgetting, that at the portof Ostend you avoid all those port impositions,which you are obliged to submit to at all the portsofFrance. These vessels are capable of containing two hundred persons; and the state cabin ismost handsomely decorated with damask furniture,over which is the quarter- deck, or ruif, havingseats for fine weather, and covered with an elegantcanopy after the manner ofthe Egyptian gondolas.The passage affords a most delightful view of thecountry, passing through the most fertile part ofFlanders, intersected with gentlemen's seats, andsmall villages; the banks of the canal are ornamented with uniform rows oftrees; by the side ofthe canal is also the pavé, or paved way, for cabriolets or other carriages, as yet but little frequented.The vessel is divided into three separate cabinsaccording to price; the first cabin and dinner atthe first table (for dinner is included if agreeable)the expense is five francs, or eleven pence each.Forthe second table and cabin, the price is onlythree francs, and for poor travellers, who carrytheir own dinner, or, what is often the case withtravellers here who have no dinner, the expenceis one franc.Aconvenient kitchen is fitted up on board witharegular man cook; and the dinner at one o'clockCHEAPNESS OF PROVISIONS, &c. ~~ 111is served up equal to a dinner at the London Tavern here is even a profusion ofplate, extendingto silver forks, &c.The following dinner was served up on boardone ofthese vessels, on board which was an English traveller, within the last few months.There were four- and-twenty persons partook ofthe dinner; there were three sorts of excellentsoup consisting of green peas, meat soup with bouille, and vegetable soup; after which were fourteen different dishes; ofhashes, stews, roast lamb,larded beef, roast fowls, and roast partridges; andlast came fish, viz. sturgeon, salmon, and cod,dressed different ways, mostly stewed and fried.Vegetables were in profusion and excellent; peasstewed with sugar, and asparagus of particularfine flavour. Their pastry also would not havedisgraced a city dinner; and then came a dessertof apples, oranges, strawberries and cream, andFlemish gingerbread nuts; this sumptuous fare,and a journey of really thirty miles, cost 4s. 7d.Englisheachperson. Wine was a separate charge;two and an half francs was the price of a bottle ofexcellent Bourdeux or Claret; three francs Rhenish, and four francs, excellent Burgundy.There is } a neat little bar fitted up on board,from which you may have any occasional refreshment, coffee tea, or liquors, &c. Whenthe expence of the journey is collected by the master ofthe vessel, the waiter follows with a strong ironbox, on which is written, charity forthe poor; andhere you are thought to behave extremely gener- ous, if you put in any little copper fractional money you may have, viz. a small bit ofcopper calleda placket silvered over, resembling a badsixpence,which passes for 2d , or a few centimes, being thefractional hundredth part of a penny. This chest L 21112 BEAUTIFUL SITUATION of Brussels.is strictly kept, and one half is divided betweenthe poor of the town, and the other half to thewaiters.The great advantage of the passage by canalnavigation in Flanders is, that no time is lost bystopping for refreshment, but even whilst at dinner you are proceeding on your journey. Thereare several pretty villages on each bank ofthe canal between Bruges and Ghent.Within a mile ofthe city is Marienkirk, containing many country houses ofthe citizens. On thearrival of the barge at what is called the BashGate, at the head of an extensive basin, there area number of coaches, and one or two horse chaisesready to convey you with your baggage for a francor a franc and a half, to any part of the city, towhich you enter by the Bruges gate, and passingup the high street, towards the middle ofthe city,youagain pass another bridge through the Towergate, andthen enter the square of the corn market,where is the Stag Inn. The streets of Brusselsin general are spacious and paved, the houses largeand lofty, with very antique fronts crowded with windows. The coach offices are in the corn markets, from whence the diligence departs night andmorning to Brussels, Antwerp,Gramont, Oudenard,andCourtray. The price is from seven to nine francsfor a distance of about thirty miles, either to Antwerp or Brussels; but the misery of this conveyance to an Englishman is beyond all description:you are close confined; for as the opening on eachside is not above a foot square, you can see littleor nothing of the country as you pass; and tenpersons are generally crowded in a space not solarge as allowed for six in England. No passengers, are taken outside, as the roof is occupied byan immense wicker locker about four feet high, forPANEGYRICS ON THE LOW COUNTRIES. 113stowage of goods and trunks, and boxes out ofnumber fastened behind. The driver sits in frontunder a head similar to that of a one-horse chaise,sometimes only taking a passengeralong with him,which is the most preferable place.The strength and awkwardness of the springs areten times worsethan those ofan Essex farmer'scart, and the condition of your bones after a day'sjourney, if you are driven on the pavé, or pavedroad, is indescribable. But as travelling becomesmore frequent, the natural consequence will be,that the roads will mend.3In fine, the present peace, and the recent measures taken for the security and prosperity ofthesecountries under the Sovereign Prince ofthe Netherlands, with the powerful alliance of GreatBritain, will probably tend to render our acquaintance with this interesting part of Europe muchmore general than it has been. Avery respecta- ble French writer, and a recent tourist, is verywarm in his panegyric upon these provinces; fromwhence, and from other circ*mstances, we maybe assisted in forming an estimate of their valueand importance. He observes, and in this he iscertainly borne out byfacts, that " In proportionas the antiquary, traversing Greece or Italy, willdiscover something to gratify his ruling passion,almost every step he takes, so the philanthropist,travelling in the Low Countries, will never beat a loss for subjects worthy of his admiration, andthe approbation of every intelligent mind. Inreality, to whatever part ofthis fine country theattention may be turned, every object attests forseveral ages past, so much industry, energy, activity, and improvement in commerce, and in thearts and sciences; such perfection in agricultureand manufactures, that one must indeed be asto- 13114 CURIOUS DERIVATIONS OF WORDS.nished, if a country so circ*mscribed in its limits did not occupy a distinguished place in the estimation of other nations."But though Belgium has for many ages maintained its rank among the nations, the real epochofits greatest splendour was while it was subjectto the Princes of Burgundy. At that period affording an asylum to foreign princes in their distress, it was able to make head against all France.It was then the entrepot and the central point ofthe commerce of Europe; and then its prosperitygave birth to arts before unknown; among othersthat ofpainting in oil, a fact which no respectablewriter will call in question.-Even previous to this brilliant era, Belgium had afforded a model to several other conntries.Supplying all other nations with clothing; ittaught the English themselves to manufacturetheir fine cloths, the wool of which they had before been in the habit of selling, and re-purchasing afterwards when prepared by Flemish industry. France has also been indebted to Belgiumfor certain arts, particularly its superb tapestry,and likewise for its ability to bring others to perfection. This is proved by the adoption ofa multitude ofcommon Flemishwords, by no means technical in the Low Countries. For instance, theart of cutting diamonds was invented at Bruges.The French words cliceur and cliver are derivedfrom Flemish terms simply signifying to split ordivide, whether applied to diamonds or objects lesscostly. In navigation we have the words touer,cabestan, strybord, &c. derived from the Flemishwords touwen to draw by the means of a rope,touw signifying a rope: kabelstang, or as we callit, capstan, is a Flemish word composed of twoothers: the first signifying a thick, or cable rope,TERMS OF ART, MANUFACTURES, &c. 115attached to the anchor; and the second, a perch,or piece of cylindrical wood. Strybord, or starboard, is a Flemish word signifying the boards ordeck where they combat. Among terms used infishing are, stok fiche, hareng pec, derived fromstok visch and pekel haring. In painting, and inthe art ofdesign, the term estampe is derived fromthe Flemish verb stompen. In mining, castine andcalisteen come from kalksteen, a word signifying acalcareous stone. There are probably many othertechnical terms, of which an etymologist mightmake an ample collection.With an exception to linen, lace, and some arti- cles in which the Low Countries still remain unrivalled, it must be confessed, that length oftime,continual wars, revolutions, andconsiderable emigrations, have deprived Belgium of that exclusivesuperiority it so long enjoyed in most of the artsand manufactures; and that other countries haveavailed themselves ofits losses. But agriculture,that most permanent source of national prosperity,so far from degenerating in the hands of the Belgians, on the contrary, appears to have been carried to greater perfection from year to year.It is to this fruitful source to which those easycirc*mstances so general among the inhabitants ofthis happy country are to be attributed, and ofwhich a long series of calamities, the loss of itscommerce and manufactures, its navigation saerificed to the jealousy of its neighbours, with othercauses, have not been able to deprive it.Next to the flourishing state of agriculture inthe Low Countries, there is nothing that will interest the intelligent traveller or the connoisseur,more than the admirable productions of the Fleimish school during the epoch ofits greatest splendour. Unfortunately the paintings of the most116 ANCIENT HISTORY OF BELGIUM.distinguished masters, viz. Rubens, Van Dyck,Van Balen, Gonzales, Jordaans, De Champaigne,Teniers, and some others, are become extremelyscarce; particularly as many of them have beencarried out ofthe country during the late war.But a small number ofindividuls here and therestill preserve several of these rarities, includingsome ofthe best works ofthe great masters. Themagnificent collection of M. De Burtin at Brussels, is here alluded to. At that place many precious morceaux embellish the public museum, andthe cabinet of M. Danoot. These, with somecollections in other parts of the Low Countries,with the plates from the school of Rubens, thebeautiful stained glass, and the rich tapestry to beseen in many public places, are sufficient testimonies of the superiority of the Dutch and Flemishschools.From a slight sketch of the ancient history ofthese provinces it appears, that Belgium and theBelgians, both known and panegyrized by Cæsar,were subjugated by him at a period when thecountry ofthe Gauls was divided into three parts:viz. Celtic Gaul; or, according to the Romans,Gaul Proper; Acquitain Gaul, comprising thewhole of Gascony; and Belgian Gaul, where theCeltic frontier commenced, and extended to theocean, and the mouth ofthe Rhine.At the same time that Cæsar passed the Alpswith the intention of conquering the Gauls, theHelvetians having formed a similar design, hadleft their country, and resolved to return no more:but the fortune ofthe Romangeneral, his superiortactics, and the excellent discipline of his troops,annihilated the hopes ofthe Helvetians, and compelled them to implore his clemency. Many ofthe Celts were pleased with Cæsar's success;MODERN SKETCH OF BELGIUM. 117their chieftain, however, being so imprudent as toinvoke the aid of Caesar against Arovistus, his mostredoubtable enemy; under the pretext of defending his new allies, Cæsar fought for himself, andin the course of two campaigns, he deprived theGauls ofall the country as far as the frontiers ofBelgium. The Belgians, who detested the dominion ofthe Romans, irritated at the base conductof the Celts, formed a league, which might havebeen fatal to the Romans, had the Belgians beenable to have added prudence and talent to thatintrepidity for which Cæsar himself became theirpanegyrist in his Commentaries.History, as far as it extends, exhibits sufficientproof that the Belgians have never degeneratedfrom their ancestors. That premature progress 巢which they have made in the useful and agreeablearts, in agriculture, manufacture, and commerce,at a time when their neighbours were far behindthem, has spread their just fame. Even at thepresent period, when civilization has risen to sucha degree among the nations where the arts andsciences are so generally cultivated, Belgium, notwithstanding the ravages of wars, both foreignand domestic, of which it has been so frequentlythe theatre, is by no means a country less populous, rich, and flourishing than any in Europe.This happy country, about the year 445, was the cradle of the French monarchy. The province, since called the Brabant, sent forth Clodion to establish himself in Gaul, after theRomans had been expelled by the Vandals.Belgium has been pillaged and burnt at differentperiods by the Huns and Normans. Belgium re- mained under the dominion of France, as an integral part ofthat kingdom, till the death of Charlemagne; but under the feeble descendants of118 WAR OF THE SUCCESSION.this illustrious monarch, the successive governorsgradually appropriated to themselves differentparts of this fine country; the final result ofwhich was its division into seventeen provinces.These at first were under as many sovereigns,some of whom were attached to France as powerful vassals, whilst the others became dependentupon the Empire ofGermany, as members of thecircle of Burgundy. In course of time, many ofthe provinces became united, particularly underthe Dukes of Burgundy. In fine, under CharlesV. they formed a whole, collectively known by the name ofthe Low Countries.Under his son, Philip II. of Spain, the solemaster ofthese countries, the Belgians were muchattached to their sovereigns, but still more so totheir liberties and privileges; hence their revoltagainst their Prince, whose object was to establishan arbitrary government. It was at this periodwhen this country, once so flourishing, becamethe theatre of a war, which, including very littlecessation, lasted upwards offourscore years; butended at length in the emancipation of the SevenUnited Provinces, and the establishment oftheRepublic of Holland. In the mean while, theother ten provinces, under the general name ofBelgium, or the Low Countries, remained undersubjection to their ancient masters, till the Austrian and Spanish families were extinct in theperson of Charles II. of Spain.The death of this monarch gave birth to theterrible war of the Succession, between Franceand Austria. The peace which put an end to thiswar, fixed the Belgian provinces in the possessionof Austria, who retained them till the year 1794,when they were over-run by the French, in consequence ofthe revolutionary war.LANGUAGE OF THE LOW COUNTRIES. 119Respecting the language at present spoken inthe Low Countries, the tourist before referred toobserves " Scarcely can one enter the Belgicprovinces from Mons, than in lieu of the badFrench spoken in Picardy, we meet with a kindof ancient Gaulois, varying in each ofthem; butdistinguished by the epithet of Brabant Walloon.This is so very nearly related to the language ofthe ancient Gauls, that in the vicinity of Liegein particular, many terms at once expressive andconcise, are generally current. These being evidently derived from the Latin, a French writerhas remarked there was much reason to regrettheir exclusion from the modern French, wheretheir places, are but indifferently supplied by circumlocutory phrases, equally flat and insipid. "NAMUR is situated at the conflux ofthe Sambreand the Meuse, twelve miles south-west ofHuy,and thirty-two of Brussels. In 1781 the Emperor Joseph destroyed the fortifications ofall thefrontier towns in the Austrian Netherlands,Namur excepted. In 1792 it was taken by theFrench Republicans, and has since been the sceneofother vicissitudes. On the road from Charleroyto this city, various alleys of lofty trees are seenleading down to the different houses, whichthough rather Gothic in their appearance, exhibita considerable degree of neatness and cleanliness,corresponding with the good taste and easy cir- c*mstances of their proprietors.An eminence close to Namur exhibits a charming view, though the rivers Sambre and Meuse arenot visible. Upon the declivity ofan immenserock, which in a manner hangs over this city,there are several kitchen-gardens that have a very picturesque appearance. There are also somesmall habitations very near its summit. Upon120 DELICIOUS FISH, CRABS, &c.this eminence there is likewise the remains ofanimmense citadel; but the place was at the sametime defended by a double chain of mountains,extending along both sides ofthe river. The bedofthe Sambre being considerably higher than thatof the Meuse, this inconvenience has been remedied bythe construction of a sluice.་Among the delicious fish abounding here, arecarp, trout, barbel, salmon, and crabs, in abundance; great numbers ofthe latter are an articleofexportation, and are well known by the appel- lation ofthe Ecrivisses de Namur.Among the churches in this city, the cathedral,and that ofthe ci-devant Jesuits, appear the moststriking. The first, which is modern, is of theCorinthian order, and has a beautiful dome. Theinterior is interesting, and merits the attention oftravellers. Its portico is embellished with twentyfine columns of the same order, supporting a façade, the cornice of which serves for a pedestal to several statues of white marble. This Jesuits'church is, beyond contradiction, superior to theCathedral. Its arches ofwhite marble, sculpturedin the taste of the times, at a great expence, areuncommonly rich. The nave is supported bytwelve rustic columns of red marble, surmountedby Ionic capitals. The stones of the marble pavement of different colours, are curiously jointedin each other. Wood, richly sculptured, adornsthe lower part of the walls, and the ConfessionBoxes, are extremely beautiful, each ofthem presenting the appearance of three arcades, supported by spiral columns, which produce a very fine effect.Most of the streets in Namur, are large andclean, and have agreeable openings. The housesin general built of a darkish blue stone, exhibit aIORN-MINES NEAR NAMUR. 121whimsical, though rather pleasing appearance.The houses in the Grand Place, or Square, whichis rather an oval, are all three stories high; butthe Hotel de Ville here is scarcely worth notice.<The iron-mines in the neighbourhood of Namurand the forests near the Meuse, supply such anabundance of charcoal, that a great portion ofthepopulation is employed in the iron- works. Alead- mine at Vedrin, a small distance from Namur,is also very profitable. The stone, or rather themarble quarries in this neighbourhood, produceexcellent lime, and stones of very large dimensions. The perfection with which they polishmarble here, renders it very beautiful. The bestblack marble is also said to be had only here, sothat the Italians themselves have for some timepast been compelled to use it. Here is also abrisk trade in cutlery and copper. The immensevein ofmarble that commences in the quarry calledDes Maludes extends as far as Luxembourg, butnot without varying in its colour, so that at Vausore and St. Remi, the red tinge predominates overevery other. Entering the ci- devant Duchy ofLUXEMBOURG, by Fontaine L'Eveque, a rockyand mountainous appearance meets the eye, notto be found in any of the Belgic provinces, excepting when near the sea coast. Still activity,industry, and easy circ*mstances, are every wherevisible, even upon the rocky shores ofthe Meuse;and yet in the appearance ofthe country here, andthe other parts of Belgium, there is almost asmuch difference as between day and night.484The ruins ofthe Abbey of Aulne, situate on theSambre, between Mons and Fontaine L'Eveque,are extremely magnificent. The country about itis wild and woody. The building originallyformed akind ofamphitheatre on the banks ofthe M122 RUINS OF A MAGNIFICENT ABBEY.river: here the cloisters alone contained threehundred columns of marble. The church wasone ofthe finest and largest in the country. Thefarm- house and part of the brewery belonging tothe Abbey still remain from the magnitude ofthe ruins, the extent ofthe whole appears to havebeen considerable. The gardens were situatedbehind the Abbey, on the brow ofa range ofhills,and a part of these are still cultivated by threemonks, who being attached to the place, have remained there ever since the year 1794, when theFrench Republicans expelled the religious, andseized their treasures. Ofseveral apartments inthe Abbey still standing, the vaulted roofs alonehave been destroyed. In one ofthe vaults many skeletons were seen entire in 1813, with their sandals also in a perfect state. The Abbey ofAulne,founded in 656, by St. Landelin, was occupied inthe tenth century by Canons Secular; but in 1144,Albiron, Bishop of Liege, obliged these Ecclesiastics to take the habit of Canons Regular of St.Augustin. The annual revenue of this Abbeywas upwards ofan hundred and thirty thousandcrowns.CHARLEROY is about fifteen miles west ofNamur; and has been often taken and re- taken.Its chief commerce used to be in nails and cannon,and other iron-work. The middle quarter, full ofmelting-houses, mills, and forges, very much resembled Birmingham. To the north-east of itstands the Abbey of Fleurus, famous for the battlebetween the French and the allies in 1690, beinggained by the former.But though the traveller going from Namur toLUXEMBOURG, finds no more ofthat which usedto enchant him in Flanders, Brabant, and theother provinces, the Cosmopolite, the naturalist,WLUXEMBOURG DESCRIBED. 123and the painter will never want subjects to interest them. Even the epicure will find his account in the savour and the exquisite relish, andthe moderate price of his common aliment.LUXEMBOURG. This city, situated on the Moselle, is about seventy miles south-east of Brussels. In this province the forests and the mountainous groupes appear varied almost to infinity,and on this account it has been described as aSwitzerland in miniature. But as mining is theprincipal business of this quarter, the immense forests which have been destroyed to producefuel, have of course given the country the appearance of wildness. Between Wirton andLongwy, it is allowed, there are some fertiletracts; but their extent bears no comparison withthat of the cantons, where the ground is of littleor no value. In the whole extent ofwhat is calledthe Ardennes, it is observed, a single atom of calcareous earth is not to be met with; nothing butimmense layers of quartz and schist, decomposedupon the surface, producing a soil of the mostungrateful description.To several other causes that militate againstthe improvement of Luxemburg, is to be addedthe want of good roads, as there is not more thanone which is at all times passable; and this so farfrom resembling those fine-paved highways inBelgium, is little better than a heap of raisedrubbish, crumbling away with a rapidity that defeatsthe purpose for which it was designed. Someofthe bread made here from a kind ofspelt (epautre) is not eatable above three days, though byno means disagreeable to the taste. The fewvineyards upon the Moselle afford tolerably goodwine. The sheep fed upon wild and aromaticherbs are exquisite in their flavour; the hornedM 2124 LUXEMBOURG AND THE VILLAGES.cattle are very small, but not less delicious. Thehorses also are small, but well shaped and active.The winged fowl, and the game with which Luxembourg abounds, are objects of research amongall the connoisseurs in good eating. It is thesame with the fish, especially the crabs, and theeels found in the brooks and the small rivulets.Very fine pearls are often found in the Semor,rather of a yellow cast, but very brilliant.The villages in Luxembourg are so thinlystrewed, that a traveller ought to regulate hisroute accordingly, if he would wish to dine towards noon, or to insure a place of reception atnight. Large towns here are by no means to becompared with the villages in Belgium; the capital only is worthy of attention. Luxembourgis not only well built, but nothing is more singular than its picturesque situation, upon two solidrocks, running along each bank of the little riverElse. One of these is ofan elevation sufficient toturn the strongest head that could venture tolook down upon the river and the Lower Town,where the people appear of the size of puppets.These naked rocks may be said to form the glacisof the place, the approaches to which are thusrendered extremely difficult. They constitute apart of an immense bank of solid marble, extending as far as Namur. Out of this solid rock thefortifications and the batteries have been cut, mostof which are of course bomb proof. Here isalso a well of an immense depth in the centre ofthe Upper Town, from which the people and thegarrison might be supplied, should the course ofthe Else be turned in case of a siege. But asnothing could effectually prevent the destruction of the houses by a bombardment, this place, generally supposed to be impregnable, was entered byLIEGE AND ITS ROMANTIC BEAUTY. 125the French, after starving out the garrison, in1795.+LIEGE. This city is situated about twelvemiles south of Maestricht, and thirty north-eastof Namur, used to be one of the largest and most wealthy cities upon the Continent. Here theMaese is divided into three branches; and entering this city from Namur, we pass this river overa good bridge of nine arches, entirely constructedof blue stone, in the same style as the ancientbridges of Paris. The route, almost all the wayfrom the gate of Namur to the right bank of theMeuse, is through a superb alley oftrees. Nothingcan be more agreeably variegated than the prospect between this part of the town and the opposite bank of the Meuse, which exhibits a number of comfortable habitations on both shores.But what renders this country most interestingto strangers, is the magnificent coup d'œil oftheprecipices which run along both sides of this river to a considerable extent. It is impossiblefor the pen to describe the truly romantic beauty,and the delightful and imposing aspect of theseviews, which the Belgian artists , who study nature, come here to enjoy. These rocks, sometimes covered with wood, sometimes naked to thesummit, are of different hues, white, blue, gray,or sombrous, and varied more or less at everystep. From the numerous fissures in these rudeunformed masses, trees, copses, and plants of different descriptions, frequently meet the eye, particularly the box and the creeping ivy; the pendent wreaths of the latter have a very agreeableeffect. As the pathway to HuY is at the foot ofthese precipices, which have certainly been formedby some violent convulsion ofnature, the passagehas in some places been cut through a part of theM 3126 ** UPICTURESQUE SCENERY, &c.:rock, which seems pendent over the head of thetraveller; and he who is not at times subject tosome apprehension of danger, must be void offeeling. Happily apprehension can only be momentary amidst this picturesque scenery, in whichthe enjoyment is otherwise without interruption.Huy, about twelve miles south- west of Liege,is only remarkable for its antiquity, being knownduring the reign ofthe Emperor Antoninus. TheMeuse dividing the town in two parts, it is connected by a bridge. The town is nearly surrounded by meadows, which being skirted bymountains, the place is in a manner concealed between these eminences and the banks ofthe Meuse,so that the principal streets of Huyare but twoin number, and these not very broad, though thehouses are tolerably well built. Two mineralsprings were discovered in the vicinity in the beginning of the last century, which are very muchesteemed.B•The road from Huy to Liege is very indifferent,as it always follows the foot of the rocks on theleft bank of the river. The opposite shore exhibits mountains covered with wood, with hereand there very pretty villages, manufactories, andchurches, the whole forming a very charminglandscape. In a word, the whole route seems toassure the traveller that he is on his way to agreat city; and this, with respect to Liege, becomes more animated and embellished every stepwe take; and next to the country houses on theroad, and on the banks ofthe river, the numerousgardens do not contribute a little to the magni- ficent effect ofthis rich landscape.1Among the multitude ofcountry houses, one ofthem appears extremely singular, from its loftysituation upon an isolated rock, the peak of whichLIEGE AND ITS ANTIQUITIES. -127had been levelled for the purpose of raising thisedifice, which in reality seems to be suspended inthe air, and as ifby enchantment. The elevationof this rock appears to be about a hundred andfifty feet. It is much to be wished, that its inhabitants do not one day become the victims of theextravagant taste of the proprietor of this building. Almost every eminence as we approachLiege are covered with vineyards to their summits, while both sides of the valley towards itsbase are decorated with hop-grounds. The poles,after harvest, being bound together in bundles,terminating in a point at a distance, resemble thetents in a camp.A long alley of lofty trees brings the travellerinto LIEGE, capital of the ci-devant Principality ofthat name. This avenue leads to a fine Quay uponthe left bank of the Meuse. This river maybesaid to traverse the city more ways than one,forming several islands, which communicate witheach other by a number of bridges of variousmodes of construction; among which the PontDes Arches is the most considerable, and notwithstanding the loftiness of the centre arch, it hasbeen broken by several thaws, and the city morethan once subject to an inundation . Accordingtohistorians, the city of Liege was built by a princeamong the Gauls, named Ambiorix; the origin ofhis name being derived from Legis, in consequence ofthe Eburons, inhabitants of this country,having totally destroyed a Roman Legion underSabinus, or Cotta. The principal parts of thiscity, like Huy and Dinant, are rather narrow, being shut in between the Meuse and the neighbouring heights; the result of whichis, that its breadthis too much in disproportion with its length.Another consequence is, that the streets, besides128 CHURCHES OF LIEGE DESCRIBED.being very dirty, are badly paved; and beingevery where too narrow, for want ofmore ground,the houses aretoo high, and of course increase thegloominess ofthe habitations; the architecture ofwhich is almost all Gothic.The city of Liege is divided into three principal parts, forming the city, properly so called,but though long, it is not large. The suburbsalso are long, and as there is no glacis, they areconnected with the city; and this makes the oneappear to be a continuation of the other. Thenumber of churches, and the ci-devant chapter,also contribute to the illusion of making this cityappear larger than it is. Among the buildingsmost worthy of attention, is the palace of the cidevant Prince Bishop. It is a large building, withfour fronts, enclosing a quadrangle with galleries,the exterior being supported by pilasters ofthe Ionic order.Among the churches at Liege, which have escaped the revolutionary furor, that of St. Paulmerits the first notice, whether its extent, therichness of its ornaments in the interior, or theItalian marble, or those ofnative growth are considered. Certainly the whole, even to the gilding, has been displayed with the greatest taste.This fine church having originally but one tower,a new one was constructed in 1812, a circ*mstance by no means frequent. The great altar inthe church of St. Martin is very fine. As for thechurch of St. Lambert, annihilated during therevolution, nothing remains but the spot on whichit stood. The Liegois say, that this was a verymajestic edifice, and a great ornament to thecity. Of the sanctuaries attached to many of thechurches, and numerous privileges which arefrequently dangerous, the citizens of Liege oftenREVOLUTIONS-TRADE, &C.129made the very worst use. Revolutions have beenexcited here even in consequence of the electionof a burgomaster, and the most extravagantexcesses committed, though, according to theirconstitution, no people in Europe were less oppressed than themselves. The whole of theduties to which they were subject was only a sixtieth denier once paid upon all merchandize introduced into the country. A coach upon springsgoes from here to Brussels and Cologne every day.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. →Thequantity of fire-arms manufactured at Liege isincredible. Nails ofall kinds are also made here,with numerous other articles of iron. Wine,hops, coarse cloths, gauze, black lace, black soap,brandy, verdigrease, copperas, lapis calaminaris,white leather, &c.Connected with the coal mines near this placeis the following extraordinary history. This coalmine, the subject of an accident, the fatal resultsofwhich were only prevented by the most heroicperseverance and exertion, is called Beaujonc. Itis aboutseven hundred feet in depth, and is workedby twelve horses, which bring up about 6000weight ofcoal every quarter ofan hour in astrongsquare trunk, called bythe miners a couffade. Thisis suspended at the four corners by short chains,attached by hooks to the main chain, and upon thestrength of this apparatus the lives of twenty orthirty miners every moment depend. Yet, in consequence of being familiarized with danger, theseminers instead ofgetting into the trunk, often placethemselves upon the ledges that surround it, notwithstanding this has cost the lives of many, inconsequence of the trunk descending coming intocontact with the other coming up; by which sẻ-130 SINGULAR ACCIDENT IN A COAL MINE.veral miners have been crushed to death, or thrownoff intothe pit and dashed in pieces. At the mouthofthe pit there is a trap-door, which with the assistance oftwo women, covers it over, whilst thecoal is discharging, to prevent the miners belowfrom receiving any injury from the pieces of coalthatmay fall. On the 28th of February, 1812, anevent, equally as fatal in its appearance as thosedeadly vapours that too . often annoy the miners,took place here. About eleven in the forenoon,the mine called Beaujonc, was suddenly inundatedby the waters that broke from an enclosure at nogreat distance. At that instant there were upwards of120 persons in the mine; with M. Goffinthe master miner, who might have very easily effected his escape, having his son by the hand, andone leg in the trunk at the moment the accidenthappened: he, however, nobly determined eitherto save all his men, or to perish with them. Thisresolution being taken, all his efforts were to encourage his men to effect a passage into an adjoining pit, called Mamonster. In the meanwhile,as the trunk was drawn up and down with the utmost velocity, to save all that was possible, someof the miners were so ungenerous as to force several children out ofthe trunk merely to get intotheir places; happily these were saved, and onlyseventy- two miners with their heroic master wasleft to grapple with the waters below, which increased every moment. These unhappy men,seeing themselves as it were separated from everyliving being besides, it seems had little or no provisions with them, and the few lights they hadwere every moment going out.-M.Goffin's object,however, being to encourage the men to effect theirdeliverance by cutting their way into the pit ofMamonster, before mentioned, he immediately setDREADFUL SITUATION OF THE MINERS. 131some of his strongest men to work; but thoughonly two could handle the pick-axeat a time, theyhad made a passage seven metres in length, whena dreadful explosion, caused by the detonation ofthe air, filled them with terror and dismay; andwhat was still more mortifying under these circ*mstances, M. Goffin discovered, that in consequence of anerroneous calculation, all their labourhad been hitherto in vain. They, instead ofopening a new way, had only penetrated a mine thathad been closed a considerable time. The confidence ofthe men in their director being thus weakened, they at first refused to renew their efforts inanother direction pointed out byhim; but insteadof this gave themselves up to despair; the boys.throwing themselves upon their knees to ask theblessing of their fathers, whilst the latter, in thebitterest terms of sorrow, lamented the fate oftheir wives and other children, from whom theynow deemed themselves separated for ever. M.Goffin was grieved to the heart at this scene ofunexampled distress, yet his fortitude never forsook him byhis own example he encouraged andrevived their drooping spirits, and again placinghimself at their head, they willingly gave themselves up to his directions. Scarcely had theycommenced their second operation for cutting theirway through into the neighbouring pit ofMamonster, than the indistinct sounds which saluted theirears at a distance, revived their hopes, exhibitingas it were, in perspective, a faint view of their deliverance. Still, in consequence of hunger andfatigue, after making three successive attempts topenetrate the masses that separated themfrom lifeand all that was dear to them, they again gave upall for lost! The prayers and reproaches ofGoffin,however, once more induced them to resume the

J132 CONSEQUENCES OF INTENSE SUFFERINGS.axe; when, having advanced twelve metres in theway of their deliverance, though, ever since thesecond day the want of oxigen in the air had extinguished the only two lights that remained, thethird having been put out by accident, they were now in total darkness.During this time, the sufferings of these poormen from hunger and thirst were most intolerable.Some ofthem became delirious; others devouredthe candles they had concealed, whilst a third description, rather than drink the infected waters ofthe mine, had no resource but in their own urine.Others again, to whom the pangs of hunger hadbecome intolerable, were eagerly watching for thedeath of some of their comrades merely to procuresustenance from the dead body! Happily, however,for someofthose whose sufferings were most acute,nature offered them a friendly balsam by overwhelming them with sleep, by which they foundthemselves considerably refreshed!In the mean while, nothing that could be donefor them out of the mine had been neglected. Itwas well known that Mamonster was the onlyopening by which it was possible that any communication could be effected with the sufferers;but still the space between them was unknown.Happily the zeal ofthe prefect of the department,being seconded by all ranks, assisted by morethana hundred horses, with fresh gangs of men constantly relieving each other, and it being also be- lieved that the engineer had hit upon the geometrical point, to which their labours being directedmust ensure success, their encouragement was increased in proportion, and they in their turn, hadthe pleasure of being able to distinguish the soundof the pick axe within answering to that without.At length, at the end offive dreadful days, passedEXTRAORDINARY DELIVERANCE, &c. 133Mbetween hope and fear, each party had the inexpressible joy of meeting each other. At first, assoon as those without could make themselves un-1derstood by the others, theyinquired how many ofthem were alive? and was given to understandthat to the number of seventy- two they were allliving, though being up to the middle in water, theheat was almost insupportable! In order to prevent any inflammation in the air, their deliverershad been some time at work without any lights intheir way from the pit of Mamonster. Not to expose these unhappy men to any fresh danger at themoment oftheir deliverance, and to prevent anybad effects, either from air orfire, every precautionimaginable had been taken. Fromthe passageinlet into these caverns of death, such a detonationofair marked the moment when the communication between them and the other pit was opened,as brought about a proper equilibrium. As several Physicians and others were collected on thespot, without taking the sufferers up into the openair, wine and bouilli were administered; and afterhavingbeen warmly wrapped up in woollen rugs,&c. they were laid upon straw, and when takenup, habituated by degrees to the light and the external air.M. Goffin, the master miner, though one ofthemost exhausted, was the last to come out; and asan instance of the levity and gaiety of the Liegoischaracter, the first words uttered byhis young son,detained in the mine with him, on seeing his mother after these six days terrible absence, were" Ah mother, what are you not married againyet?"AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. Leaving Liege for thisplace, about twenty-six miles distant, it may benecessary to traverse the ci-devant duchy of LIMN134 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, LIMBOurg.BOURG by a high road very well kept; and thoughthis province does not contain any city sufficientlyconsiderable to merit very particular attention,the country, upon the whole, has been noticed asone of the most interesting in Europe, not merelyon account ofits population, but on account of itsnatural productions, and its numerous manufac- tories of cloths and other woollens. The abundance of excellent pasturage in this duchy feedsa great number of horned cattle, the milk andbutter of which is very delicate; however, thecheese made here, to many palates, will appearquite otherwise. But, notwithstanding its veryunpleasant smell, under the name ofFromages deHerve, it is in request all over Europe, to supplythe tables ofgourmands of every description, towhom the price may not be an object.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. -Needles,copper and tin ware, cloth, laces, braziery, charcoal.The mines of LIMBOURG are apparently inex- haustible in calamine and zinc, so muchin requestfor converting copper into brass. The consumption of this metal at Namur alone is very considerable. Though the wool of Limbourg is but ofa common quality, it cannot be denied, that someof the finest cloths are made there, as well as largequantities of the common sort. In consequenceof the increase of these manufactories, the population keeping pace with it, is now sufficient for acountry much more extended.Besides cloth, they fabricate very fine kerseymeres and other woollen stuffs at Limbourg; buttheir own wool not being sufficient in quantity orquality, they import largely from foreign countries, particularly from Spain.LIMBOURG, formerly the capital of this duchy,KINGDOM OF AIX-LA- CHAPELLE. 135about fifteen miles from Liege, seldom attracts theattention of any modern traveller, being in sucha ruinated state as to resemble a deserted villagemore than a city. It is about nine English milesfrom a village called Julemont, in remembranceof Julius Cæsar, who encamped there. This wasalso the birth- place of the celebrated Jesuit, Bollandus, author of the Lives of the Saints, whichbeing successively continued by other learned Jesuits, they obtained the name of Bollandists.In the environs of Aix-la- Chapelle there is aspot, which, with some degree of the ridiculous, iscalled the kingdom of Aix- la-Chapelle, which appears very singular when applied to a place, thejurisdiction of which does not extend more thana league beyond its walls, and which territory is,besides, only marked out by the planting ofquickset hedges!This place, formerly a free and imperial city,derived its French name from its waters, andthe church built there by order of Charlemagne.The German emperors were always crowned here till 1531, Ferdinand, brother of Charles V.being the last Emperor crowned there in thatyear. Aix-la- Chapelle has lost all its ancientsplendour; its springs and its manufactories ofcloth being all that remain at present. It is still by no means uninteresting to the traveller. TheHotel de Ville is a Gothic building, only remarkable for its two ancient towers; one of these iscalled the Tower of Granus. Ascending to a certain height, we are informed, that so far wasbuilt by the ancient Romans. Above that, the construction being of modern masonry, it servesas an entablature to the edifice, and to supporta roof made of timber. In 1331 a fountain ofcold water was opened opposite this Maison de N 2136 GREAT CHURCH OF AIX- LA- CHAPELLE.Ville, which is crowned by a statue of Charlemagne in gilt copper. This statue and its pedestal are surrounded by a handsome copper basin, about thirty feet in circumference.In the great church the monument of Charlemagne is much admired. The small Gothic ornaments of gold are of exquisite workmanship.Here is also a hunting horn made out of thetooth of an elephant. The architecture of thechoir is bold and beautiful. The more modernpart of the edifice consists of a rotunda, ornamented with pillars that support a gallery, inwhich a large massy armed chair of white marbleis shewn. Upon this the body of Charlemagnewas deposited for a considerable time in histomb. In this chair the emperors used to sitwhen they were crowned. A large stone in thecentre of this rotunda is also shewn, formerlyplaced over the tomb of Charlemagne, uponwhich the simple inscription of Carolo Magno is still legible.

f菌The streets of this place contain some handsome large houses, much more convenient thanthose at Liege. From a steep eminence in thevicinity, called the Lousberg, there is an admirable prospect. On the north and the east ofthis town there are some fine level plains, terminating by a gentle descent close to the walls .The cultivated country between the north andthe west extending out of sight, affords a pleasingprospect. To the south, the horizon is boundedby mountains that recal the remembrance of thedelightful country of Limbourg, so that Aix-laChapelle is charmingly situated in the centre ofafruitful country. On the most elevated part ofthe Lousberg a pyramid was erected , and dedicated to the late Emperor Napoleon by MarshalBORSCHEID AND LOUVAIN. 137Berthier, in order to mark out one of the summits which served as a base of the topographicaland military chart of the departments on the leftbank of the Rhine. Two of the sides of thispyramid contain descriptions, giving the result indetail, of the astronomical observations made atthe foot of this pyramid in 1804, by M. J. Jos Transchot.Thefine town of Borscheid is worth making anexcursion to see, and which owed its origin toits celebrated Abbey, and where, as well as atVaalst, the same woollen manufactures are carried on as at Aix-la-Chapelle. Here are hotsprings, the heat sufficient to boil eggs. Borscheidcontains five springs, used to supply the hot baths,the water of Compas Badt excepted, this beingdrank as a remedy against several complaints.The other springs supply the Emperor's Bath,those of St. Quirin and Corneille, the New Bath,and another appropriated to the use ofthe poor.The inhabitants of Aix-la- Chapelle, thoughfond of the fine arts, are not mentioned as having any paintings of value in their possession.--In order to proceed from Aix- la- Chapelle, itis necessary to pass through several large villages, where the houses, constructed of wood andclay, if houses they may be called, are not aboveone story high, and which receive no light butfrom openings very near the roof. Before mostof these dwellings there is a rude kind of porchsupported upon uprights, and resembling a carthouse. The roadto Juliers being but indifferent,travelling is not performed here with much expedition; and at Juliers itself, the river Roer,and the fortifications constructed by the French,excepted, there is nothing very remarkable.LOUVAIN, which should have been noticed asN 31

138 NUMEROUS COLLEGES7BEER, &c.within nine miles of Tirlemont, and about fifteenfrom Brussels, seems at present to consist of onehalf gardens and other grounds, and the rest ofbuildings.Before Brussels rose into celebrity, this was thecapital ofthe LowCountries. The injurious emigration caused by the revolt of the clothiers in thetime of Wenceslaus, Duke of Brabant, gave Louvain a mortal blow, which it never recovered. Itsuniversity, some time since suppressed, was for along time one of the first in Europe, on account ofits great privileges, its immense riches, the number of its students and celebrated professors.Its numerous colleges, mostly rebuilt about theconclusion of the last century, generally affordeda gratuitous habitation to many of the students.Several of these buildings, now connected, latelyformed a magnificent hotel occupied by invalidsof the French army. The Clothiers' Hall is stilla fine building; this had been converted into accommodations for public schools of Law, Physic,and Divinity, for the uses of which a magnificentlibrary had been added.Next to the superb colleges, the Maison DeVille attracts particular attention. As a gothicbuilding it seems to have been one of the most expensive ever known; the numerous embossedfigures, even upon the exterior, are of the mostexquisite workmanship. The church of St. Peteropposite, had a fine tower upwards of 500 feethigh, which fell without any apparent cause® in1606. The ci- devant college of the Jesuits, latelyconverted into a parish church, affords an additional proof of the costliness of all the buildingsthat have belonged to this suppressed order.White beer brewed here is an article in great request; butthere are three sorts in the whole; viz.7 VARIETIES OF BEER.9139the strongest, called Peterman, the exportationof which out of the city was long since prohibited.Caniak is the common table beer at the colleges,and other houses; but that which is called, Bierrede Louvain, is an article of exportation to everypart of the Low Countries. The canal that runsfrom Louvain to Malines has been in a mannerdeserted ever since Louvain ceased to be the staplefor goods on transit through this part of thecountry. tIn the year 1788, the greatest part ofthe university, for its opposition against the Emperor,was removed to Brussels, and only divinity wassuffered to be taught there. The following yeargave rise to great disturbances; the houses ofthefriends ofgovernment were plundered, and violentmeasures adopted against the Imperial troops;but tranquillity was restored before the generalinsurrection of the Netherlands. At the beginningof the fourteenth century, Louvain employed150,000 hands in the cotton branch. At presentthe whole population does not far exceed $40,000 souls.BRUSSELS. The traveller who leaves Louvainfor this city, twelve miles distant from it, will verysoon find himself at the foot of the Montagne deFer. Half- way between the two places just mentioned, we traverse the village of Cortenberg,where the Constitutional Assembly of the StatesofBrabant used to be held. The road lined withtrees all the way renders it very agreeable. Approaching Brussels we descend into a most delightful valley, watered by the Senne, which runsthrough the city.The rising grounds, intersected by rills abouttheenvirons of this charming place, would almostpersuade one that Brussels was only placed here140 BRUSSELS; ITS POPULATION, &c.merely for the purpose of adding the ornaments ofart to the beauties of nature. Butifin the number of magnificent buildings, and that of its inhabitants, it yields the palm to some other cities ofEurope, for the salubrity of its air, a charmingsituation, the abundance and the cheapness of thenecessaries and conveniences of life, it yields tonone. It is to these causes as well as to the mildness ofthe government here, that we are to attribute the conflux ofstrangers in the time of peace,for the purpose oftaking up their residence. Thelevel of the superb canal here is very nearly eighteen fathoms above that of the sea. The Scheldtis the means of communication between Brusselsand the Ocean. In 1780 the population of Brussels was not less than a hundred thousand souls;this, about the conclusion of the late war, wasfound to have been reduced to three-fourths ofthat number..The fine monuments of sculpture which stilldecorate thiscity, with other collateral proofs, tendto demonstrate, that the residence ofthe court andthe confluence of strangers have contributed toenrich it. The magnificent monument ofthe Princeof Tour and Taxis, which occupies two chapels inthe church of Sablon, is covered with statues andallegorical figures in black and white marble, executed by Gripelle and Duquesnoy.Another fine monument, is that which exhibitsa fine groupe in white marble upon the fountain ofSablon, erected in conformity to the will of Lord-Bruce, a peer of Scotland, out ofgratitude for thewholesome and agreeable residence which he hadenjoyed at Brussels for the space of forty years.This inscription, so flattering for this city, couldnot escapethe fury ofthe revolution. It was torndown from its pedestal: the inscription upon theHOTEL DE VILLE AND MARKET- PLACE. 141monumentwas in large letters of gilt copper. Several other pieces of sculpture were destroyedabout the same time.The Hotel de Ville, situated in the great square,is one of the finest Gothic buildings in the LowCountries. The tower, 364 feet in height, is anadmirable piece of workmanship; it is entirelyconstructed of stone, and its summit sustains thegigantic statue of St. Michael, of gilt copper,which serves also for a weatherco*ck. This statueis seventeen feet in its elevation. It is surprising,that the architect should have been wanting inone of the simplest rules of his art, by neglecting to place this tower in the centre ofthe edifice;but a degree of irregularity has also been remarked in the doors, windows, &c. ofthe building, presenting a tout ensemble altogether original.The soil being marshy, it is said here, that thefoundation was in a great measure laid upon bull'shides...The great market- place is one of the most singular in Europe, being a regular parallelogram,the four sides of which, though ornamented withbuildings dissimilar in shape, and in the form ofthe architecture, is nevertheless consistent withthe general plan. Among the multiplicity of ornaments that embellish this structure, there weresome that held the first rank among the finestpieces of sculpture; but these were destroyed in the revolution.One of the fronts, though it lately containedseveral houses, was formerly but one, highly ornamented with a Fame, made by Quesnoy, andthe busts of the Dukes of Brabant. The opposite front contains several buildings, which havebelonged to as many trading companies, whoseemed to have endeavoured to surpass each•142 ARCHITECTURE OF THE LOW COUNTRIES.other in the expenses they incurred for embel- lishments. One of the large fronts, with theMaison de Ville, contains several other houses,formerly occupied by trading companies. Theback front, with houses of the same description,includes a very ancient Gothic building, called theMaison du Roi. Becoming national property,during the French revolution, it was sold to theprefect, the ci-devant Marquis d'Arconati. He notonly repaired this front, but restored the ancientinscriptions, and added another respecting him- self.M. Dumuis, a French author, is said to havedescribed the architecture of the Low Countriesin a few words. It is, he observes, " peculiar toitself, being a compound of the Gothic and theMorisco, equally as astonishing for its lightnessand its boldness, as for the beauty of its forms,and the harmony of its proportion." This style of architecture was introduced into the LowCountries by the Spaniards, who borrowed itfrom the Moors, who brought it with them intoSpain.The public fountain, known at Brussels by thename of the Manneke Piss, it is said, among thatof other sovereigns, attracted the attention ofLouis XV. who, by way of a hint, as to the indecency of exposing this child, made the effigy apresent of a copious wardrobe, with which it wasfrequently decorated, especially on processiondays. This little figure in bronze is said to have been the work of Quesnoy.The Church of St. Gudule, and its Chapels,contain a number of tombs of black and whitemarble, with the remains of many great Lords,Princes, and Governors of the Low Countries.In the nave of this Church is a pulpit, or chairSCULPTURE AT BRUSSELS. 143de verite, constructed ofoak, and extremely beau-,tiful. Upon the lower part of this superb pieceofsculpture is inscribed, in letters of gold, HanVerbruggen, Ant: inv: delin: et fecit. HenryVerbruggen, of Antwerp, finished this sculpture,in 1699, for the church ofthe Jesuits at Louvain,from which it was removed to that of St. Gudule,upon the suppression oftheir order in 1776.The subject is the representation of Adam andEve driven out of Paradise by the Angel, andthreatened with death. They are standing underthe tree of Knowledge, the branches of which,loaded with apples, are also occupied near Eve bysuchbirds and animals as the peaco*ck, the parrot,and the ape, intended to represent the frailties ofwomen: Over Adam is seen the eagle, theostrich, &c. which characterize the qualities of themale sex. yThe canopy over this piece of sculpture is supported by two angels, and by the branches of thetree, and crowned by a beautiful statue of theVirgin, holding an infant Jesus in her arms.There are many angels at her feet, and with across, which she holds in her hand, she bruizesthe head of the serpent. This church has twotowers, upon each of which a telegraph wasplaced by the French government. A grand staircase of blue marble, which led to the principalentrance, was decorated by a balustrade; but being thrown down in some popular commotion, thishas been since altogether removed.Very great changes were made in this church while Brussels was in the hands of the French;they shut up most of its chapels; those that remain are uncommonly beautiful in their embel- lishments. In the choir there is a tomb of blackmarble, surmounted by the figure of a lion n144 THEATRES AT BRUSSELS.copper, which is said to weigh more than sixthousand pounds. This mausoleum contains theashes of John II. Duke of Brabant, who died in1312, and those of his wife, Margaret, daughterof Edward, King of England. She died in 1318.Philip II. is also interred here; he died in 1480.In this church a vault, closed by a sepulchralstone of white marble, contains the remains ofseveral dukes, arch-dukes, and duch*esses. Fourteen very fine statues in the nave are much admired byconnoisseurs; each ofthese are about tenfeet high, and represent the Saviour, his Mother,and the Twelve Apostles. The workmanship ofthese statues is excellent; four ofthem are knownto be that of Quesnoy. In one of the chapels inwhich service is perfomed, the superb mausoleumsof the families of Spinola and Jean Brueghel, acelebrated painter, attract great attention.The entrances to the principal theatre at Brussels are rather narrow and inconvenient, and thelobby was deemed too large for the other part ofthe house. As a consequence resulting from anumber ofopulent persons leaving this city during the late war, it was observed, that the taste fortheatrical amusem*nts had declined very much.A want of taste might possibly have been accessary to this declension, as it has been observedthat the natives of Brussels are frequently verynoisy and inattentive during a theatrical perform- ance.Besides the principal theatre situated near theMint, there is another in one of the fine stoneedifices in the park opposite the Imperial Palace.This was very much frequented while there wasa good Flemish Company under the direction ofM. Vitzthumb, and when it was occupied by acompany of young actors, the best in Brussels:;FINE STREETS IN BRUSSELS.

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but till lately engaged by the English now residentin that city, it had again dwindled into insignificance.Most ofthe streets in Brussels are commodious,and have fine openings the architecture of thehouses is rather grand, being ornamented withIonic pilasters and the fronts painted with oilcolours: white, a nankeen yellow, and lightgreen are generally preferred. The dates of thebuilding of them are nearly all equal, being subsequent to the bombardment of the city by Marshal Villeroy, in August, 1695. The style in whichthese houses were rebuilt after that calamity is asufficient indication of the opulence of the inhabitants of Brussels, even at that period. Mostofthe houses built in the time of the Spaniards,like some of those of old London, have their gable ends towards the street.Thoughthe rivage (the river's side) is the leasthealthy part of Brussels, the conveniency of thesituation to the quays and the different channels ofthe river being the scene of business, especially inthe wholesale way, is thought to overbalance everyother consideration.St. Michael's Square in the neighbourhood ofthe superb new street De La Loi, merits the attention of every traveller. It is a long squareformed by magnificent buildings of the same architecture, ornamented with pilasters of the Doric order. This has been a promenade for someyears past; and to increase the pleasure ofwalking here, the pavement was after some time takenup to give place to a number oflime trees plantedin quincunx and enclosed within railing. The newcorn market is also very handsome, but the architecture ofthe houses that surround it is of differentkinds.146

PROMENADES, PARKS, INSCRIPTIONS.As to the park at Brussels it is much superiorto most of the public walks in Europe. It is intersected by broad and handsome walks, the loftytrees on each side affording their shade to theseand the beautiful lawns which continually relievethee eye, and give particular effect to a number ofstatues in white marble ofexcellent workmanship,A fine basin in the centre plentifully stocked withgold and silver fish, adds to the attractions ofthis delightful spot. On each side of the principal walk two vallies amply shaded with hightrees and bushes, offer a most effectual retreatfrom the scorching rays of the sun. In the valleyto the right, a square basin of blue marble is deposited. This when in the Old Park, used toreceive the contents of a fountain; but is supposedto have been placed in the New Park merely toperpetuate the memory of an event which is recorded by the following inscription on its border." Petrus Alexowits, Czar Magnus, MuscoviceDux, insidens margini hujus fontes, aquam illiusnobilitavit , libato vino, hora post meridiem, tertiâdie 16 Aprilis anni 1717."This is only saying in English that on such aday, Peter the Great of Russia, being inebriated,fell into this fountain, and in so doing conferred adignity on the water which it did not before post.sess.登 道The magnificence of the buildings which environ the park cannot be easily surpassed, particularly the extensive façade occupying the wholelength of the street De La Loi, in the centre ofwhich, stands the palace, formerly called LeConseil de Brabant, lately the seat of the ImperialCourt of Appeal The pediment exhibits a noblegroup of allegorical figures, representing justice;PALACES AND PAINTINGS. 147this precious morceau does honour to the art ofsculpture. Do the 20Besides the playhouse in the park, there is anassembly room and a coffee house, with billiardsand other games. An excellent traiteur is alsoestablished here. Leaving the park, on one sidewe see the square of Louvain, and on the otherthe grand square called Place Royale. The regularity and beautiful architecture of the buildings in this square, particularly the superb porticoof the new church of Condenberg, the pedimentofwhich is supported by six columns, must be allowed to produce a very striking effect. Thissquare was till some years since, embellished withthe statue of the well- beloved Prince Charles ofLorraine, which cost a very great sum, but wasthrown down when General Dumourier enteredBrussels. It was replaced when the Austriansregained possession, but during the war, was asecond time overthrown and carried to Paris.had two Latin inscriptions."ItThe noble palace of SCHONENBERG (or Beaumont) commonly called Lacken, was built by thelate Archduch*ess Maria Christiana, and was occupied for some time by the late Emperor Napoleon. The gardens overlook the road to Antwerp; and these contain the subterranean grotto,the temples of Amity and that of the Sun. Unhappily the celebrated Chinese Pagoda no longerexists. The object most interesting to the curious traveller at Brussels, is perhaps the magnificent collections of paintings in the hands ofsomeindividuals, particularly M. de Burtin, the elder,the ci-devant governor ofthe LowCountries. Oneof these painted by Van Aelst, is described astruly astonishing, and far surpassing every thingof the kind by Mignon, De Heem, Ruysch Van o 2148 PAINTINGS, PICTURES, &c.Husum, &c.; a landscape by James D'Arthors, issaid in many points ofview to equal any by ClaudeLorraine. The Purification ofthe People of Israelby Van Balen, is said to entitle him to rank withthe first masters. One of the three pictures byDe Both, now at Brussels, formerly belonged tothe gallery of the Duke of Brunswick. ThePaladin Astolfe, painted by Michael Angelo Buonarotte, is said in its effect, to surpass Rembrandt,the picture also bears the monogram ofthe pain- ter, in such a manner as to leave no doubt of itsauthenticity. Here are also several pictures byAlbert Durer, and among them, that of his mistress in the eighteenth year of her age, and thatofthe Intrepid Chevalier.The Marriage of St. Catherine by Van Dyck,is also in the possession of M. De Burtin; thisis allowed by all the amateurs to have been themost finished of all Van Dyck's paintings; thesame excellence is also ascribed to a painting of aConcert performing by the family of Van Eyck ofAntwerp, who on account of his merit was namedVan Dyck the less. Guido's Holy Family isdesignated under number 59, in M. De Burtin'sCatalogue; under number 74 is the Chefd'œuvreof Charles du Jardin, and there are four others by the same artist in the collection.Here is likewise a celebrated battle piece, byJohn Lingelbach, and a very striking portrait of the illustrious Dutch Pensionary, Jacob Cats:in this latter painting Theodore Keyser is said tohave equalled and united all the talents of Rubensand Van Dyck. Of five pictures by Gabriel Metzu in the possession of M. De Burtin, two," the Fainting Beauty" and " the Admiral'sFeast" are highly spoken of "A Church," byPeter Neefs the elder, and " Moon Light," byPAINTINGS, PICTURES, &c. 149Arent Van Derneer are described as two wondersof the art. Among the paintings of GaspardNetcher, a Dutch female knitting is preferred.-This picture has been falsely ascribed to FrancisVan Mieris the elder. Among Rembrandt'spictures, are Isaac blessing Jacob, and two portraits. Here are seven paintings by Rubens;amongthese, the head of a prior of the Augustines,is said to possess astonishing effect. Anotherpainting by this great master, was sold by M. De Burtin for a hundred thousand franks.11

The Virgin of Sassoferrats is described as thene plus ultra of art. Of three pictures, by Terburg, one is called " The Vengeance ofTerburg,"a performance truly classical. The Pharisee'sRepast, " by Paul Veronese, is a striking picture,and is supposed to have been the original of thatwhich is only a copy of it in the Saloon of Hercules, at Versailles, presented by the republic of Venice to Louis XIV..No. 181, in M. De Burtin's Catalogue is " theSleeping Shepherdess" by John Baptist Weanix;all the amateurs here agree, that this is one ofthe most wonderful productions of art. What isgenerally esteemed as this artist's Chef d'œuvre,represents a hare, and several other animals livingand dead, in a landscape, which is quite enchantinganThe colouring of " the Fish Woman" by VanDerwerf, exhibits a softness and a degree of animation exceeding most of his other works.Besides the pictures already specified, this collection contains several by Backhuysen, Benedette,Berchem, Brekelenkamp, Camphuysen, Van DeelenEbzhaimer, Everdingen Van der Heyden, Lairesse, Philip Lauri, Maratte De Moor, Van derPoel, Poelemberg, Pynaker, Schelken , Ican Steen,0 3150 MUSEUMS AND PRIVATE COLLECTIONS.Titian, Francis Trevisani, Adrien Van den Welde,William Van den Welde, Ary De Voys, &c. Inthis valuable collection there are sixteen picturesby David Teniers; nine by Dietrice; eight byVan Dyck; and as many by Ostade; five byMieris; an equal number by Philip Wouvermansand Henry Roos; three by Champaigne; two byAsselyn Caracchi, Guido, John Hakkert, Holbein, John Van Huysum, Potter, and JohnWynants; not to mention some rare productionsby Breenberg, Albert Cuyp, Van der Does,Geminiani, Helt Stockade, De Heus, Van Slingelandt, and other excellent painters, by whomthere are no duplicates.But whatever excellenee the pictures alreadyspecified may possess, there is little or no hesitation at Brussels, to give the preference to theadmirable Chef d'œuvre of Leonard da Vinci,representing "the Bearing ofthe Cross" and thescarcity ofthis Master's productions, renders this,which is in excellent preservation, almost inestimable.The Museum at Brussels has several suites ofrooms containing some very fine pictures; andamong them " the Elevation of the Cross" acapital painting in Van Dyck's best manner; several by Rubens, particularly his St. Bacon and St.Livin. The Fishes of St. Julian, St. Genevieve,or the Presentation at the Temple, by Philip DeChampaigne The Holy Family by Henry DeClerck, born at Brussels in 1570. A fine Landscape byJames De Arthois, &c. &c.-The collection of Messrs. Plowitz and Danoot,Bankers in the D'Aremberg, contains several finelandscapes by David Teniers; -a charming picture by Thyssen's, a pupil ofVandyck, and a goodportrait of Rembrandt. A Venus in the mannerPRIVATE COLLECTIONS, PUBLIC LIBRARIES.151ofTitian. Afine copy ofthe Jocunda of LeonardDa Vinci. A large picture, much damaged, of theHoly Family, ascribed to Rubens, &c.M. Reynders in the Place Royale, has severalgood pictures by Dutch masters, principally landscapes, by Hobbema, Wouvermans, &c. with someminiatures by Peter Van Slingelandt, GabrielMetzu, and others.M. De Man, near Meyboom, has been someyears forming a collection of natural history andpictures, many of which attest his good taste.M. Tiberghien, another banker here, has anumber of paintings richly framed.Butthough it may be some satisfaction to knowthat so many ofthe productions ofthe first mastersare in existence, it is to be regretted that in allprobability those that were in the hands of M. DeBurtin, and other persons under the Frenchgovernment, have been removed to Paris, andother parts of France since the late overthrow ofNapoleon. The French themselves confess thatsince the revolution, the churches at Brussels havebeen stripped of all their paintings, so that atpresent there is not one in the whole city of anyintrinsic value, or reputation, from the consideration of its being the production of any eminentmaster. This mortifying reflection may possiblyapply equally as well to the public libraries. Thatin the museum at Brussels lately consisted ofeighty thousand volumes. Among the manuscriptswere a very ancient copy of the Bible, a Terence,a Virgil, and the works of Cicero. An orangeryand a botanic garden are attached to the museum.A French writer who made a tour of the LowCountries in 1812, acknowledges, that all theaccommodations of Paris and other great citiesare to be found at Brussels, without any of their152 INNS, TRADE AND MANUFACTURES.inconveniences. Better Inns are nowhere to befound, as among these the traveller may alwaysregulate his expenditure to his income; the HotelsGarnis, those miserable substitutes for Inns atParis, are not known at Brussels, but there is nowant of ready furnished lodgings well suppliedwith every requisite at a reasonable charge, " infine, every thing necessary or useful to man, forhis nutriment, his clothing, his pleasure, or hisluxury, is here to be had in abundance and atmoderate prices; besides two meat marketsalways wellsupplied, I have counted above twenty others for grain, pulse, fruit, flowers, butter,cheese, eggs, sea and river fish, fowl, game andother eatables."In these markets there is the best opportunityof observing the costume of the Flemish maleand female peasantry: the latter make use of avery becoming veil, which has been in commonuse in the LowCountries ever since the Spaniardsruled there. It is every where known by thename of faille, of which some surprise has beenexpressed that it does not appear in any of the French dictionaries. These veils are always madeofblack silk or stuff, about two French ells and ahalf long, and generally of a substance to resistthe rain; though worn by servants, the best citizens wives do not disdain to follow the prevailing custom, either in rainy weather, or whenonly going to church or to market.Inns. The Hotel de Belle Vue, the Prince ofWales on one side of the Park, the Flanders Hotél, and the Hotel D'Angleterre. mid naguTrade and Manufactures.Lace, hats, stockings, serges, dimitres, plushes, cotton, sewingthread, printed cottons, galoons, gold and silver,stained paper, shammys and stuffs, trimmings,VILVORDE, MALINES, &c. 153gloves, tobacco, black soap, oil ofvitriol, brandy,camblets, china- ware, glass, dyed woollens, machines for calendering, &c. cloths, kerseymeres,and frizes a la mode D'Angleterre, tapestry,tin, &cTheroad from Brussels to Vilvorde throughtheAlée Vert, (Green Alley, ) and bythe side of theSenne is highly diversified with neat houses andgardens, many of them in the English taste, besides a number of mills and manufactories. LesTrois Fontanes on the same route, is a very agreeable little village; and this takes its name froma pillar, from which the water issues by threedifferent apertures, and is close to the plain ofGammarache; not far from here, is the first sluicewhich the declivity of the ground had renderednecessary for assisting the navigation of the canalrunning from Brussels.Just before we arrived at the bridge of Vilvorde, stands the House of Correction, an immense building upon the site ofan ancient castle,built by Wenceslaws, Duke of Brabant, the number of whose inhabitants only prove the prevalence of vice in civilized society. Vilvorde hasnothing remarkable about it, excepting thetelegraph fixed upon the church steeple; it isabout six miles from Brussels, and as many fromMalines.The entrance into MALINES is over a bridgeupon the canal of Louvain; here as well as in theenvirons of Brussels there are a number of littlecountry public houses; a large street leads to thecathedral of St. Romauld, which has a lofty tower:besides this there are several other churches, andamongst them that ofthe Jesuits now made pa- rochial, seems to merit the preference. Someexcellent pictures of the Flemish school, which154 LACE, FISH, HAMS, &c.used to embellish these structures, are no longerto be found; a few of the inhabitants of Malinesare in possession ofsome small collections.!Though the gilt leather trade of this town hasentirely decayed, as well as the making of tapestry, it can still boast of a population of twentythousand souls, chiefly employed in the tanneriesand in the manufacture ofrugs. Hats made here,are equal to those made at Brussels or any other part of the Low Countries. Lace made hereyields in beauty to Brussels lace, but is more durable. It is not true that all the lace knownby the latter name is manufactured at Malines:very lately there were not above ten lace makersin Malines, and their houses furnished all theemployment of that kind in the town. Malines sófar from being confined to its manufactures, carries on no small trade in grain, and other producein its environs; besides, the tide which brings theDyle up to its walls, gives the inhabitants an opportunity of supplying themselves with plenty of river and sea fish. The Brown beer here, is notonly excellent, but the meat is ofthe best quality ';and this is imputed to a regulation adopted by themagistrates, bywhich the butchers are prohibitedfrom killing cows, nor can any individual butcherkill more than one ox per week. On this account,they are always careful only to purchase the fattest. The pork shops at Malines are constantlywell supplied with bacon, hams, &c . so well cured,that it might be introduced to the best tables forits delicacy and flavor: even the feet and the earsofthe pig, as prepared here, are well known allthrough Belgium as forming the dish, distinguished by the appellation of de dejeuner de Malines.A late French traveller alluded to before, on thishead observes, that it would be useless to seekadGOOD EATING, NEW ROADS, ANTWERP. 155for a place where there is better eating than atMalines," and that he can add, without scruple,that the low price of eatables and that ofhouserent, is another recommendation, though it arisesfrom the difficulty ofletting the houses, since thetown had been deprived ofits Grand Council, andthe number ofadvocates, pleaders, and other persons dependent upon the government. Largebarracks for cavalry and infantry are still preserved, though the archiepiscopal seminary ismerely the shadow of what it has been: however,the causeway that leads to Louvain is kept inexcellent preservation; but being perfectlystraight, is by no means so pleasant as some others,where the scenery is of course more agreeably diversified.1. है3The newest roads in Belgium are all made invariably to run in direct lines; therefore, as thatfrom Malincs to Antwerp, is one of the most ancient, its curves and elevations are easily actcounted for; the roads most recently paved, asthat of St. Nicolas through Beveren to Antwerp,contrary to the old ones, are formed in rightline, without the least connivance or partialitytowards any proprietor of land, &c. through whichthey might take their direction.ANTWERP, is situated 24 miles north of Brusse s on the Scheldt, where that river is 22 feetdeep and 400 yards wide. The citadel is one ofthe strongest in Europe, and the place altogether seemed to have been rendered impregnableby land and water whilst in possession of theFrench. It is now upon the point of being formally ceded to the Prince of Orange, as thesovereign of the Netherlands.....Those who visit Antwerp at the present period, will scarcely dissent from a traveller in 1681,156 CATHEDRAL AND CHURCHES OF ANTWERP.whose opinion was " That it exceeded everyother city he had seen upon the Continent, Naples, Rome, and Venice excepted, by the magnificence ofits public buildings, the grandeur of itschurches, and the breadth of its spacious streets. "The cathedral of Antwerp once so majestic, it isacknowledged has been nearly stripped ofall its ornaments, not excepting many of its altars, duringthe late revolutions: a number of the monumentsand their inscriptions have also been destroyed;still the monument of Rubens in St. James' churchin this city, in which Rubens is buried, is sufficient to absorb all the attention of a man of taste.The altar-piece of one chapel is 'wholly consecrated to the memory ofthis great man;' in thepainting which decorates this altar, he has represented himself. This fine painting carried toParis at the period of the last conquest of theLow Countries, was afterwards restored by thelate Emperor, in order that the people ofAntwerpmight preserve the remembrance of one of themost illustrious of their fellow citizens. A longLatin inscription upon marble, also distinguisheshis monument. The church called that of theGrand Jesuites by way of distinguishing it fromthat ofthe petit* Jesuites, is spoken of in verywarm terms; this magnificent edifice with its delightful tower, was built from the designs andunder the directions of the great Rubens himself,andthe tower is generally acknowledged as a veryextraordinary piece ofarchitecture: as to the noblefront ofthis edifice, it is acknowledged that Rubens did not suppose it sufficiently elevated, andthat to conceal this defect, he raised anotherbuilding, the proximity of which prevented thespectator from seeing the real cause of this addition. Unhappily the fine paintings by the handMAISON DE VILLE, AUCTIONS, &c. 157of this great master, which once adorned thischurch, were mostly burned, in consequence ofthe edifice being struck by lightning, when mostof its embellishments were considerably defacedand damaged.The Maison De Ville at Antwerp, is entirelyconstructed of marble. The house of the Osterlings, that majestic monument of the commerceonce carried on by the Hans Towns, and theExchange, are very striking. It has been remarked that the era chosen for the erection of thisfine town- house at Antwerp, was that when thedecline of its commerce had commenced, andwhich ofcourse involved in it the inevitable decayof that opulent city. The tower of the cathedralis without doubt, one of the finest on the continent, next to that of Strasbourg; its form is thatof a pyramid, and the lightness and delicacy of itsworkmanship is admirable. The chimes in thissteeple are played upon numerous bells, and thesolidity ofthis lofty and beautiful tower is securedby clamps ofiron.我象During the Wednesday's market at Antwerp,goods are at present frequently sold by auction atnoon day; but when this city was in its prosperity,twelve at night was the hour chosen for sales ofhouses, lands, &c. solely on account ofthe numerous commercial engagements which preventedthe attendance of the merchants during the day.At that time there were several subterraneancanals, through which small vessels conveyed thegoods to different parts of the city, which hadbeen brought by the larger through the open canals. On account of the number of vessels inthe Scheldt anxious to unload, HOBOKEN, a pointwhere they used to be moored in a line for thatpurpose, was long remembered by the seamen asP158 CHURCHES OF ANTWERP, 3.an unlucky spot, principally from the delay whichthen took place in the transfer oftheir loading.The injury which the fine arts have sustainedat Antwerp, in consequence of the French revolution, and the perturbed state of the Low Countries, will in some measure appear from the following observations of a traveller, made on thespot a month previous to that convulsion,fa6" The churches of Antwerp afford high gratification to a connoisseur in painting; nowhere arethe works of Rubens to be seen in greater pernfection and abundance. An enumeration of onlythe most choice would exceed our bounds. Familymonuments in the churches of Antwerp are mostcommonly adorned with paintings by the bestmasters, these being either portraits of the principal persons there buried, or portions of sacredhistory, by which they are rendered more interesting than such memorials generally are. But themost elaborate and superb productions of thepencil are commonly to be seen in the altar-pieces.Of these the most celebrated of all is, The Descent from the Cross, over one of the smalleraltars in the cathedral, esteemed the master pieceof Rubens, in which he has drawn the portraitsof his three wives, The principal altar piece ofSt. Walburgh's Church, by the same great master,is equally admirable. Its subject is, The Elevation of the Cross; nothing can be more ani?mated and masterly, every muscle ofthe principalfigure is alive, and his exquisite, sensibility andresignation under the greatest bodily sufferings,are represented with most energetic truth. Thispicture is accompanied by others, whose subjectsare connected with it, and the whole forms one ofthe finest assemblages that can be seen or ozodyr" Ofthe innumerable paintings in the cathedral,3(xPAINTINGS, AND PAINTED WINDOWS. 189besides the capital picture already mentioned,many more by Rubens, worthy of his pencil, claimthe first attention; nor are they the only ones.The story of St. Thomas, with some other piecesby Martin de Vos, and especially the monument of the Vander AdfabCornelius de Vos,scarcely suffer by a comparison with the works ofRubens himself. The altar-piece in the chapelof the circumcision, by Quintin Matsys, is esteemed his master-piecel Here too is the pictureof The Fallen Angels' by Floris, to whichMatsys, beingin love with the painter's daughter,and having taught himself painting on purpose toobtain her, added a fly, or rather a huge humblebee, upon the thigh of one of the angels; whichsurprized and pleased Floris so much when henext looked at his picture, that he gave Matsy's hisdaughter. This piece is in good preservation over one of the altars of the nave, growing is vanIn this church are several fine painted windows,and some good morsels of sculpture; especially abas relief of children turning the wine press, onthe altar of the wine- coopers company, by Quiltten; and above all, St. Sebastian, with two children carvedin wood by the same artist, in anotherpart ofthe church. deimelt bougThe monument of Quintin Matsys, near thewest door is always shown to strangers, as well asthe ornaments ofa pump near it, wrought entirelywith a hammerby the hand ofthat celebrated painter, during his first profession of a smith. Hisepitaph says,chant of Quintinto boost side toareould enottoo, betning baid oldeulenolsConnubialis amor de Muliebre fecit Appellem.onalThe outside of this cathedral is Gothic, andis very magnificent, the view from its tower isextensive, comprehending several considerableP2160 VALUE OF MONEY AT ANTWERP.towns; though the stairs do not reach its top bysome distance."On one of the bridges at Antwerp is a crucifixas large as life, with the following inscription:Effigiem Christi dum transis pronus honora:Non tamen effigiem , sed quem designat adora.That is,Honorthe image of Christ as you pass along:But reserve your devotions for Christ himself.This is very sensible; but who can help remarking that the inscription being in Latin, isaddressed to those only who do not want suchadvice, and not to the vulgar, who are mostin danger offalling into idolatry.The following is an account of the value ofmoney at Antwerp, expressed in pence and decimals ofpence, according to the mint price ofgoldand silver in England; that is, 31. 17s. 103d. perounce for gold, and 5s. 2d. per ounce for silver.The value is expressed in pence, and decimals ofpence.Val. in Silver.d. dec.in Gold.d. dec.123 8720 54 20 68105 65 106 1817.60 17 70Pound Flemish (money of Exchange) . 123 25Florin (money of Exchange) .. Pound Flemish current...Florin current...Trade and Manufactures. -Fine lace, known by the name ofMechlin lace, thread ofthe most valuable kind, printed cottons, black silk stuffs,known by the name of failles; bleacheries, cloths,silk, fustians, muslins,"shammoys, dimities, shammy leathers, oil of Colza, ribbons, tape, greensoap, salt, tobacco, sear-cloth, canvas, starch,RICH COUNTRY OF WAES, &c. 161tournsol, stockings, silk and cotton, white lead,fine blue, playing cards, chocolate, white wax,glues, cowhair, straw for hats, and refined sugar.t"From Antwerp through the country of Waes toGhent, which commences as soon as we have passed the Flanders Head, the number of cattle andthe rich pastures extending every way, exhibit aspecimen of agriculture not exceeded in any partof Europe. Much of this soil, was originally amoving sand; at present the greatest part of it,owing to the continual supply of excellent manuréfor the course of more than a century, is of a fineblack, and that of an astonishing depth. Personswith ever so little taste for rural improvements,can scarcely restrain their surprise when passingthrough this charming country, in observing theresemblance of the whole, to one large village,apparently separated by fields and gardens,alwaysgreen. The villages, in reality are so numerousand so closely connected with each other, that itis difficult to perceive where one begins, or whereanother ends. The population is also só numerous, that maugre the fertility of the soil, itwould appear, that its produce was insufficient fortheir support. The roads all along are coveredat small distances with neat clean houses, withtheir yards, orchards, barns, stabling, &c. Almostevery house standing in an orchard or a yard,is separated from the high road, by a ditch of atolerable depth, and between this and the dwelling an alley oftrees, quickset hedges, &c. Thesecomfortable dwellings contain a number ofweavers, flax dressers, &e. not to be found uponany other spot ofthe same extent in Europe.13TERMONDE.The country of Termonde consistsofnumerous comfortable villages, as there is butonegood town; but though one town is moreP 3162 NUMEROUS MANUFACTORIES, GHENT.than Waes can boast, the villages of Termondeare equal to many towns, as much for the numberand convenience of the houses, as for the numerous manufactories, particularly of hemp, asfor the population employed in them, which isfrom eighteen to twenty thousand in fact, sonumerous are the hands engaged in cotton, silkand cotton, &c. that we can scarcely pass a housewithout hearing the monotonous sounds of theloom, the shuttle, &c. But the principal reasonwhy the inhabitants have so much employment inthese lines the greatest part ofthe year, is becausethat the other part of the season is filled up bythe engagement of the very same persons in agriculture. At these times being employed in thegrowth offlax, the residue ofit is appropriated toits conversion into thread or linen, as may bestsuit their convenience.The soil being very lightin the country ofWaes,the number of horses bred are not wanted, one ofthese, it is understood, will do as much work asthree, where the soil is of clay. The surplus ofhorses here is converted into an article of gainfulcommerce. Oxen are also purchased in Holland,and brought here to fatten; and, as in England,some of these are of such enormous weight andsize as to be almost unable to stand upright.GHENT, situated at the 1 confluence of theScheldt, the Lis, the Lieve, and the Moer, istwenty-five miles north-west of Brussels, and is so ancient that several historians attribute itsfoundation to Julius Cæsar, who called the inhabitants Gorduini. The Vandals that succeededthe Nervians, gave this city the name of Vande,which at length was called Ganda, FormerlyGhent surpassed Paris in extent, which gave occasion to Charles the Fifth to make a pun uponSINGULAR CUSTOM AT GHENT. 163the word, in saying he could put all Paris intohis Gand, i, e. his glove. Even at present, Ghentcontains within its walls, a number of bleachinggrounds, and other parts not built upon. Stillthe population of that part of it which is inhabitedis so large, that the deficiency of the other quarters is not seen. Ghent is intersected by therivers above- mentioned, and several other canals,which form at least twenty-six islands, connectedwith each other in different parts, by 300 bridgesat least. Two ofthese canals are navigable; oneto Sas Von Ghent, and the other to Brussels.Though the streets of Ghent in general arebroad, and have good openings, some few ofthemmuch frequented are so narrow as not to admittwo carriages abreast. The public edifices, however, are well worthy ofthe traveller's attention,particularly the cathedral; as is also the publiclibrary, which, besides the copy of a Bible, printedin 1472, contains the famous canon, called laFolle Marguerite, which is nearly eighteen feetin length and three in diameter. The BotanicGarden here is said to be interesting, on accountof the number of persons in this city who areknown to be attached to the study of botany..Till Ghent was united to France, a very singular custom was kept up by the magistrates ofthat place. After that city had revolted against Charles V. that monarch, on granting them pardon in consequence of their appearing before himwith ropes round their necks, imposed it upon them as a condition that they should continue towear the badge of humiliation whenever theywere in the exercise of their humble functions.Having no alternative but to obey, they had theaddress in a very short time to convert this markof their disgrace into a kind of a True Lover's•164 BRUGES, GHENT, &C. CHARACTERIZED.Knot, which was never laid aside as long as theyremained under the Imperial yoke. It is by thiscord that the city of Ghent was characterized insome Belgic verses, originally composed in Latin,upon the six principal cities in the Low Countries,and which was afterwards turned into French,thus,A L Jou -1Bruxelles brille par noblesse, a metszodeAnvers brille par ses richesse, is mad, esGand par la corde au col annexe atto duro Bruges par la beaute duLouvain brillé par les savans,Malines manque du bon sens.

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பTrade, Commerce, and Manufactures. Paper,playing cards, Prussian blue, cobalt, glass, earthenware, ribbons, printed cottons, linen, and tablecloths; thread, bleaching, &c.To proceed from Ghent to BRUGES, the traveller has the choice of three different routes; bywater by the canal, that which runs close tothe bank, and the third by the great road thatbranches off from these . The second is certainly the pleasa pleasantest, though few but foot passengersor persons who have very light carriages travelthat way; still people incumbered by a horseor a carriage generally prefer going by water asthe most pleasant of all.The conveniencies of the hoy that plies betweenBruges and Ghent are so many, that a numberof persons go in it from time to time merely forthe purposes of pleasure. The cabins are neatlyfurnished with tables, chairs, cushions, &e. andare sufficiently large to admit of persons readingor writing without interruption. Wine, beer,and liquors of all kinds, are to be had at anytime; but at the dinner hour, when the cloth islaid upon all the tables, people take their placesCONVENIENCE OF WATER CARRIAGE. 165according to their convenience, and partake of arepast as plentiful and as delicate as those at thebest inns. But besides the cabins appropriatedto the passengers in general, this hoy contains avery good kitchen, a scullery, a larder, cellars,&c. Other places of occasional retreat are keptwith uncommon neatness, and to these the passengers have admission by keys. In travellingupon the canal by water, it is observed that even dinner does not retard the progress a moment;the towing horses, that go at a decent pace, arealways put on the trot when they have the windin their favour. And when the sail is hoisted,the progress made on this canal is as rapid as can be desired.Bruges, about twenty-two miles north- west ofGhent, is very large, and of a form nearly oval.It contains many monuments, which attest itsancient splendour, and that epoch when it servedas a central point for the merchants of the HansTowns, and those of Venice, Genoa, and othercities in the Mediterranean. In fact, it was atthat time the only depôt of the commerce of Europe, from whence they drew a sufficient supplyfor surrounding nations; and this perpetual interchange of commerce rendered Bruges one ofthe richest cities in the world. Bruges beingalso the residence of the powerful Counts ofFlanders, was at the height of its prosperity,when the Court of Philip the Good displayed adegree ofsplendour which none could equal, andwhen his power rendered him formidable to allhis neighbours. His court was an asylum forevery unfortunate or proscribed sovereign. ThisCount of Flanders, who at one time protectedkings, and at others made them tremble, rendered166 BUILDINGS AT BRUSSELS."his name immortal, not only by his great qualitiesand his brilliant actions, but by his establishmentof the Order of the Golden Fleece, in 1430,on the very day of his marriage with Isabella,daughter of John, King of Portugal. boo910e91But though fallen much beneath its originalsplendour, Bruges has never ceased in somemeasure to be a rich, commercial, and manufacturing town. Before its external communications were interrupted by the late revolutionarywar, more than twenty thousand pieces of linenwere annually exported to Holland, Spain, andAmerica. The lace manufactories at Bruges haveseldom employed less than 4000 hands. Theticking, fine cottons, and the dimities manufactured here, are still in request , and exportationfrom Bruges is very much facilitated by the convenience of water carriage by its canals towardsGermany and France, as well as by the sea from Ostend.Ville,1099 $ 26was formerly ornamented with the busts of theCounts ofThe Hotel dealswith Gothic edificetion. Neanders, removed during the revolution. Near this spot, the ruins of the Chapel ofST. SANG are still visible; this was' once a placeof pilgrimage, attended by devotees for manymiles round. The Church of NOTRE DAME contains nothing striking, excepting two monuments,constructed of pierre dede ttouche, and gilt copper.The gilding alone cost 24.000 Dutch ducats, or48,000 Brabant crowns. These superb memorials were saved from the fury of the revolutionistsby the beadle of the church. The late EmperorNapoleon, being informed of this circ*mstancewhen he was at Bruges, ordered the beadle areward for his services, and gave 1000 francs for9MAGNIFICENT TOMBS, &C. 167the embellishment of the chapel which containsthese monuments; the first of which was erectedto the memory of Charles the Bold, Duke ofBurgundy, killed before Nancy, in 1477. It waserected in 1550, by Marie d'Autriche, sister ofCharles the Fifth, with the following inscription:91ere dies the most high, most powerful, andmagnanimous Prince Charles, Duke of Bourg,Lothricke, Brabant, Limbourg, Luxembourg,and Gueldres; Count of Flanders, Artois, BuBurgundy Palatine of Hanau, of Holland, of Zealand, of Namur, and Zutphen: Marquis of theHoly Empire Lord of Friesland, Salines, andMalines; whobeing highly endowed with courage,constancy, and magnanimity, was for a long timefortunate in his arduous enterprises, battles, andvictories, at Monthelri in Normandy, in Artois,and at Liege , till Fortune turning her back uponhim, overwhelmed him on the night of TwelfthDay, 1476, before Nancy. His body, depositedat Nancy, was afterwards, by order of the mosthigh, most puissant, and most victorious PrinceCharles, Emperor of the Romans, the fifth ofthisnephew, the inheritor of his namehis victories, and his lordships, removed toBruges, where King Philip of Castile, Leon, Ar- Alaragon, andNavarre, and son of the same EmperorCharles, caused it to be deposited in this tomb,by the side of his daughter, and sole heiress,Mary, the wife of the most high and most puissant Prince Maximilian, Archduke of Austria,and afterwards King and Emperor of the Romans de bote te guided- e of 1599291name,hist 901 0The other tomb contains the remains of Maryof Burgundy, the daughter of this Prince, thewife of Maximilian, Archduke of Austria, who HOT168 SEA- BATHING AT OSTEND.died in the twenty-fifth year of her age, on the28th ofMarch, 1481.The route from Bruges to OSTEND, distantabout ten miles, is much the same as that fromGhent to Bruges, only with this difference, thatthe canal to Ostend is much broader and deeperthan the other. The hoy also that carries thepassengers to Ostend, has no convenience forcooking victuals, &c.; and the vegetation on thehigh road is less abundant. The trees likewiseare stunted in proportion as we approach the seashore. The houses in and near Ostend, beingbuilt very low to avoid the effect of the highwinds that blow from the sea, give the placerather an unfavourable appearance. Even theTown House here, though large, is uncommonlylow, which can only be attributed to the causejust assigned, for the want of elevation in thehouses in general.The only part of Ostend, built in the modernstyle, and according to a regular plan, is what iscalled The New Town, which owes its existenceto the benevolent views of the late EmperorJoseph. But though the buildings afford verylittle interest to the curious traveller, the sluices,particularly that of Slykens, is worth the attention of the curious. Vessels from Bruges, however, never pass these sluices, passengers beingobliged to quit them on these occasions, and proceed in smaller vehicles, unless they choose to continue their journey on foot, by the side of the canal.With respect to sea-bathing at Ostend, strangersmay not be a little surprised to see persons ofboth sexes taking this benefit without any distinction, or any idea of scandal. Strangers haveSHARPNESS OF THE SEA AIR, &c. 169likewise observed, that the sea air at this placehas the singular faculty of creating an appetitein persons in whom the disposition for taking food had been ever so weak before. Directionsfor embarking at this place for England, withother particulars, have been given in the preceding pages ofthis work,•170 GEOGRAPHY OF GERMANY, ANlo d'ood rang重1 CHAP. IV.ng Sid a movig land seA Route from Nimeguen to Frankfort:From Nimeguen to Cleves Cleves to DusseldorfDusseldorf to Cologn Cologn to Bonn......... Bonn to Remangen... Remangen to Andernach Andernach to Coblentz Coblentz to Montebauer..Montebauer to Limburg....Limburg to Wirges Wirges to Konigstein....... Konigstein to Frankfort ....Posts. Miles. Hours.14 1/2 3 30 2 2011 16 1 131 1364322 4242423/134 121 131 13/1/4 12 1 11/2 21Hitler 13GERMANY.GERMANY lies between 1° and 16% 40' longitudefrom Paris, and between 45° 15′ and 55° northlatitude. It is bounded on the north by theNorth Sea, Denmark, and the Baltic Sea; onthe east by Prussia, Poland, and Hungary; onthe south by the Gulph of Venice, Italy, andSwitzerland; on the west by France, the NorthSea, and the United Netherlands. Its length isabout 600 miles, almost as much in breadth, andit contains nearly 200,000 square miles.The southern part of the country is mountainous, woody, and almost throughout fruitfuland well cultivated. The northern part is morelevel; towards the sea, in many places, it liesvery low, and contains large barren wastes, inter-RIVERS AND PRODUCTIONS OF GERMANY. 171tricts spersed. with The air forests is ,tempera and Very fertile disand in general prodhealthy. The chief mountains are, the Vogesian Mountains, betweenthe Rhine and the Moselle,the Schwartzwald, and the Alpine MountainsinSwitzerland and Italy; Kalenberg in Austria;the White Mountains between M and Hungary; the Giant Mountains in Silesia, on thefrontiers of Bohemia , the Fichtelberg in Franconia; and the Hartz and Brocken in LowerSaxony. The principal rivers are the Danube,Rhine, Weser, Elbe, and Oder. The Danuberises in Swabia, at the foot of the Schwartzwaldor Black Forest, and empties itself into the BlackSea. The Rhine rises in the Grisons in Switzerland. The Weser is formed by the junction ofthe Werra and Fulda. The Elbe rises amongthe Giant Mountains in Silesia , and, like theRhine and Weser, runs into the North Sea. TheOder rises in Moravia, and falls into the BalticSea, which is likewise called the Lake of Constance or Bregents, between Swabia and Switzerland; the Chiem Sea in Bavaria; and the CirknitsSea in the duchy of Carniola, in Austria.GiaGermanyproduces many sorts ofcorn; namely,rye, wheat, millet, maize, oats, barley, rape, &c.;a great deal of hemp and flax; many kinds offruit, especially apples, pears, cherries, plums;in the Tyrol, olive oil; and in Moravia, somerice; besides good wines, chiefly in the provincesadjacent to the Rhine, the Neckar, and the Moselle , and in Austria; here and there silk andtobacco; in many parts, abundance of wood forbuilding and fuel; and in the forests are foundseveral species of game, as stags, deer, wildboars, hares; likewise bears and wolves, lynxes,&c. Many provinces have good breeds ofhornedQ 2172 PECULIARITIES IN WESTPHALIA.Thecattle, horses, sheep, and swine; also much,honey and wax. Fish and fowl are very plentiful;of the fish, salmon, carp, pike, eels, &c.mines yield quantities of silver, lead, copper,iron, quicksilver, and some gold and tin . Thereare likewise many kinds of precious stones, ascrystal, rubies, topazes, &c.; marble and alabaster, and abundance of salt.Having given the reader all the information necessary respecting Holland and the Low Countries ,the traveller who wishes to visit Germany willprobably choose to pass through Nimeguen and Arnheim to Cleves."In proceeding out of Holland towards Germany, the progress from wet to dry, and fromlow to high land, is always felt, though less inGuelderland than in any other province; butwhen the traveller approaches the " bloomingedges of Westphalia," he will find, that thecharming duchy of Cleves, and its environs, resemble the most beautiful unassuming parts ofEngland. About Cuylenberg, formerly the firstPrussian town betwixt Nimeguen and Cleves, thewhited cottages, comfortable farms, and culturedgrounds, remind an Englishman of his nativecountry. At Cleves, which is only a post offourteen miles from Nimeguen, the charges at theinns begin to be considerably more reasonablethan in Holland, because there the train ofwaiters, shoe- boys, &c. are charged in the traveller's bill, and often interrupt his way to hishorse or carriage; but in Westphalia, these supernumeraries are all paid by their master, and their.services included in their wages. This noticeholds good from Helveotsluys to the Hague, tothe farthest end of the Prussian states; and infact,१ the variations are but trifling on the routeCLEVES; ITS WANT OF CLEANLINESS. 173to Berlin on the one hand, and to Vienna on theother. Happily the introduction of French moneyinto the ci-devant Prussian territory in Westphalia,has done away the inconvenience of taking thePrussian base coin, particularly the silver, whichused to be refused even upon the frontiers ofHolland.CLEVES, where the manners of the peopledivest one of all the pleasing ideas of Dutch neatness and cleanliness, is the capital of the duchyof this name. It is built on the eastern side ofthree hills, about four English miles from theRhine, with which it communicates by the Hel.The castle, which stands on the hill of Schawenburg, is said to have been first built by JuliusCæsar. Several ofthe streets, from their elevatedsituation, extend their views many leagues intothe country, finely variegated with woods, fields,towns, and villages. The wood, and the Menagerie, about a mile from the town, is much frequented on account of its pleasant walks, foun- tains, cascades, and baths. The Catholics havea collegiate church, and here is also a congregation of Baptists.BATrade, Manufactures, and Commerce. -Silk,cloths, linen, bleacheries, &c. in off20 stonWith respect to the face of the country here, it has been observed, " that when a traveller is atsuch a centrical place as Cleves, he can scarcelytake an unpleasant course; though a(generally speaking) no sooner arrives Strangerhe sets off for Dusseldorf, Cologn, &c, neglecting all the sweet side scenery, and the enchantingvillages behind. " It is owned, that a league ofuniformly dreary heath ground sometimes intervenes, though even this is frequently relieved byherds, flocks, and shepherds; when, by the powerQ 3174 WESEL, GLOOMY AND UNPLEASANT.of contrast, even sterility becomes no uninteresting object in a traveller's picture.Though Wesel does not lay in the direct road toDusseldorf, it is so often visited by travellers onbusiness, that we cannot help going rather out ofour way to describe it.WESEL, twenty- five miles, or two posts, fromCleves, is a large town in the same Duchy on theRhine, which is here joined by the Lippe. It wasformerly an imperial town. It has suffered much.in different wars, and in 1757 was taken by theFrench, who did not evacuate it till 1763, whenits works were demolished, and nothing left butwalls, ditches, and a citadel. It has two Calvinistchurches and an academy, a French Walloon congregation, a Lutheran and a Catholic_church,and lately three Catholic convents. Two gazettes are printed here, one in German, the other,the courier of the Lower Rhine, in French. ABeurtschff, or large luggage boat, goes from hereto Amsterdam every day. It is to be observed,that none but persons travelling post in the diligence can be admitted into Wesel, after the gateshave been once shut at night. The streets ofWesel are gloomy and narrow, and the place, on thewhole, by no means inviting.Trade, Commerce, &c.-Strong linens.Inns. The Duke of Brunswick.From this place it is thirty miles, or threeposts, toDUSSELDORF, SO called from its situation uponthe mouth ofthe Dussel, which there falls into theRhine. This was, during the war of the revolution, the capital of Prince Joachim, i. e. Murat.Among the public edifices and curiosities are theHotel de Ville; the equestrian statue of JohnWilliam, the Elector Palatine, by Gripello, in theDUSSELDORÉ, AND ITS PAINTINGS.. 175middle ofthe market-place; to this Elector, Dusseldorf owes great part of its present beauty; thestatue is of copper: John William is representedon horseback, the electoral hat on his head; andholding in his right hand, the truncheon of honour; the pedestal, which is nearly eleven feethigh, is of grey marble, without ornament and without inscription.In going out ofthe gate of Berg, you enterthenew town, which wasbuilt by the above-mentionedelector, who resided there; it is entirely constructed in the Italian taste; the street is broad;unfortunately the death of this elector put an endto his improvements.The remaining public buildings are, the stables;the government house, the barracks, the Collegiate church; the ci-devant church ofthe Jesuits,the finest in Dusseldorf, the convent ofthe Franciscans, and the hospital ofthe poor.The cabinet ofnatural curiosities at the college,the Mecanographie, and the principal literary establishments here, are worthy of notice; as arealso the academy of painting and drawing, andthe college itself. The picture gallery, famous allover Europe, has nothing remarkable in its external appearance, having been designed as a temporary establishment by the Elector John William,till a magnificent edifice, which he had devised,could be executed. The paintings were displacedduring the revolutionary war, but were partly replaced when this place was under the governmentof Murat, the present King of Naples. It contains the principal works of Van Dyke, VanderWerf, Rubens, and other Flemish masters, withthe busts and drawings of the Academy. Thereare three large apartments and two smaller ones.The first apartment is called the Flemish hall, or176 PRINCIPAL PICTURES AT DUSSELDORF.gallery, on ay, on account of the many pictures of thatSchool; the second after the name of the famouspainter Dow, as it contains his excellent picture ofa Quack; the third is called the Italian Hall,the fourth after Vander Werf, and the fifth after Rubensalo vise at didThe following is a list of the principal pictures.On entering the first gallery, the picture thatimmediately strikes the eye from its wonderful expression and beauty of its colouring, is that ofThe wise and foolish Virgins, painted by Schalken in the year 1700. next most remarkable is an excellent ilaques Torduens;ofcalled the of Kings,it isof a family round a tablegiving way to the most lively transports of innocent pleasure. In the middle of the hall is a finepicture by Gaspard Krayer; this piece, which is18 feet high and 11 wide, was painted in 1646,and represents, The Saints Address to the Queenof Heaven. The utmost art and excellence ofpainting is displayed in the next picture, which isChrist in the Tomb, by Vandyke. Death is admirably represented on every part of the body ofChrist, which is not covered with grave-cloths .Near this last picture, and over the door whichleads to the second gallery, is the Invention oftheHoly Cross, by Gerard Dousset; at the bottom arethese words: Amor et delicia generis humaniCrux. 979 30 99sig eidt medy ba The Chase of the wild Boar, in the most criticalmoment of attack, by Francis Schenyers is the nextpicture; the boar has already in his fury torn outthe bowels of several dogs, which are laying deadaround him. One of the huntsmen has plungedhis lance in his flank; another, on whom he isadvancing, attempting to do the same, his lancewith his guestrepresentsa fatherA VILLAGE FAIR, BY DOW.177breaks, and he sees himself exposed to the fury ofthe enraged animal. Nothing can be more naturally represented than the sudden fear on his countenance. The other huntsmen are running to hisassistance, ready to fall onthe boar, while the dogswho appear animated by the sound of the hornseem eager to renew the attack. Rubens paintedthe figures ofthe five men. Onthe same side is aKermess or Village Feast, by David Teniers, andreckoned among his best works.In the second hall, near the entrance, is the muchesteemed Village Fair, by Gerard Dow. The sceneis placed between a village and a castle, and before,a small inn, on one side of which you discover araised stage covered with a turkey carpet. Onthis is placed different vessels containing medicines, also a barber's basin and a monkey; a largeumbrella covering the top of the whole. TheQuack appears boasting the excellency of his remedies to the spectators; his manner and figureare truly comic, and the crowd that surround himare listening with the utmost attention to his harangue. The most striking figures are a womanin a black hat, and a pickpocket, who taking advantage ofthe profound attention in which she ap- pears lost, is robbing her. G. Dow has introduced himself in this picture, seated at a windowof the inn, with a pallet and pencils in his hand,looking at the Fair.Next is that master-piece of Vandyke's, TheTomb of Christ. This excellent painter appearsto have exerted the utmost of his genius in thispicture. A little farther is another picture by thesame master, representing The Virgin and Jesus.Above the last is the portrait of Vandyke, by himself. This apartment contains twenty- two of thebest pictures by this master. The first picture178 WORKS OF ITALIAN MASTERS, &c.that claims attention in the Italian Gallery, is TheHoly Family, by Raphael. The next, by the same master, is St. John in Solitude; over this lastis a picture of The Virgin, by Charles Dolce.Fronting this piece is the Ecce hom*o of the immortal Antony Allegri, commonly called Corregio.The Massacre of the Innocents, by Annibal Car- rachi, presents a picture of sublime horrors.The HolyFamily, by Andre del Sarto, is after the manner, and perhaps an imitation of Raphaël.The next picture is a kind of caricature by LucusJordan; it is The Temptation of Christ. The Sa- viour is seated on the point of a rock, and Satanunder the figure and dress of a monk, is represented tempting him; the devil has a parcel ofstones in the flap ofhis robe, under which you discover flames: this whimsical idea is extremely well executed.ellenze edi.cod esOn the same side, against the principal wall, isthe Susannah of Dominique Zampieri, the Dominican . This picture is eight feet three incheshigh, and ten feet seven in width, and is one of the best in the gallery.liqJaom1911bus ad dould.In the fourth hall is the Ascension of the HolyVirgin, by Guido Reni. The height of this painting is nine feet two, by seven and a half wide, andis painted on taffety. Here are twenty- five pictures by Vander Werf, which constitute the chiefornament of this gallery In this apartment arealso nine paintings by Rembrandt, and a RomanTriumphby Polidore Carravaggio , this last mentioned is very ancient, but admirably painted. Inthe last apartment are the paintings of the inimitable Rubens. The painting of The last Judgmentis eighteen feet nine by fourteen feet. His idea ofplacing a Negro among the elect is worthy hisgenius, and announces at once both philosophy andPICTURES BY RUBENS, CARLSTADE 179asentiment of humanity, the more praiseworthy,as it was uncommon in the age in which he lived.Among the number of the elect he has also placedhis second wife; nor has he forgotten himself,though modestly represented with an air of doubt,as if uncertain to which side he appertained. Inthe next picture Rubens has represented himselfand his first wife. Tenderness and satisfactionare in every trait of this charming pair; they areboth in rich Spanish dresses. The Death of Seneca is a masterpiece ofexpression. The philosopher is naked, with his feet in a brass basin full ofwater, whose colour is tinged with blood. Againstthe wall is the portrait of a General of the Order ofSt. Francis in Spain. The next is The Virgin andInfant Jesus, with a kind of border formed byeleven wingedd angels, who hold a garland of floweers, which produces a beautiful effect. ostumOn the same side is The Flight of the Amazons.It was this inestimable piece which gave rise tothe foundation of the gallery. The Elector, JohnWilliam, purchased it by chance, and was sogreatly pleased with it, that he resolved to makethis collection of paintings, which have been valuedat four millions of crowns. Here is also a Landscape with a Rainbow painted in one day by Rubens. The next is the Precipitation of Sinnersinto Hell. This piece is eight feet eleven inches,by six feet ten, and presents at once a most striking but terrible effect.Jort , bement oppitunCARLSTADT, is a new city, as it may be called;it joins the old city to the south, and was built by the Elector Charles Theodore, whose name itbears; it is divided into nine regular r quarters, inthe midst of which is a spacious, palace; all thehouses are erected on the same plan, but this uniformity has a happy effect. Besides the newgate180 PROMENADES; A WESTPHALIAN INN.of Carlstadt, the city has four others; the gate ofRuding, ofFling, of Berg, and of the Rhine.The promenades here arethe Placed'Armes, thewalks at Neustadt, and the palace garden. Intheenvirons the convent of La Trappe is worth notice. From the Grafeuberg, there is a fine view.The baths at Schwelm are much frequented, particularly on Sundays. The ball- rooms here arevery commodious. The cavern in the mountainof Klutter is a very great curiosity. The finesuburbs are resorted to as promenades. The fortifications, which were demolished, together withthe castle, remain a heap of ruins.Inns.-The Golden Anchor, Cour de Holland,and the Cour de Saarbruck.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. -Plateglass, silk, vinegar, refined sugar; Cromford'smanufactory, snuff boxes, &c.AWestphalian inn between Cleves and Dusseldorf has been thus described by an ingeniousEnglish traveller: " After we had settled accounts with the driver, we were conducted to ourapartment, or stube, opposite to the kitchen. Itsclean and neat appearance, notwithstanding itssimplicity, was somewhat encouraging. Itswhitened walls, adorned with small pictures ofsaints, an image of the Virgin placed upon alarge family chest as the protectress of some oldchina ranged in the front, and a crucifix under anantique framed mirror, manifested the owner'sdisposition both for devotion and ornament, whilethey gave us hope that matters would not go verybad in such good company. Our repast was simple, but in abundance; and it was served up withattention and civility; a clean table- cloth, napkins, and plates, with burnished knives, sharpenedthe appetite, which had lost its edge from a per-WESTPHALIAN INNS, &c. 181spective ofthe kitchen. Our bedchamber partookof the same neatness and simplicity, and weawoke in the morning much more refreshed, andbetter satisfied, than first appearances had promised on the preceding evening.There are other inns in Westphalia, which areCermed scheuren, or barns, where rationals andirrationals, men, women, and children, with alltheir live stock, dwell under one roof, and in thesame apartment. The family occupy the extremepart of the building, at the greatest distance fromthe door, which is mostly at the gable end; horses,milch cows, and oxen, are ranged on the right andleft towards the entrance, and hogs and poultryfake possession of the middle space. In consequence of this disposition, the hearth, or fireplace, is very remote from the door, and thesmoke, which is mostly of oak wood, finding nochimney, or immediate vent, collecting in ampleringlets in the upper regions, is diffused in copiousstreams over the whole building, and its superabundance escapes at the barn-door. At once toform a beneficial stream, and to facilitate its passage, a large reflecting board is placed perpendicularly above the fire-place, at such a due height,that it prevents the smoke from collecting amongthe beams and rafters, by diffusing each column asit rises overthe middle regions.Some ofthese scheuren, or barns, have a secondary apartment, called a stube, from its beingwarmed by a stove, or furnace, placed contiguousto, or rather in the wall, generally heated fromwithout by an opening, so that the air in theapartment has no access to the fuel, but receivesa close, sultry, and unwholesome heat. Thestoves of the rich are very elegant, being formedof cast iron, ornamented with figures in relief, or R182 SMALL FARMS AND LARGE FAMILIES.cased with valuable Saxon porcelain. Thesestoves are supposed to bethe cause of pulmonarycomplaints, so common with those that use them.Another inconvenience in the habitations of thepeasantry, arises from the heaps ofdung that aresuffered to accumulate before each of their doors,the infusion of which, in rainy weather, flows incopious streams along the streets. Still the superior excellence of a good Westphalia ham, thatepicurean gout which gives it a general preference, is in a great measure to be ascribed tothe construction of these houses. The hams aresuspended in the thickest part of this current ofsmoke, a few yards from the board, by which ithas been repelled; and thus they are constantlyexposed to a suffusion of an acrid, anti- putrescentprinciple, constantly operating without being applied in that degree of heat which produces rancidity, as is the case with too many chimneysmoked hams.In every one of these Westphalia barns we maysee an incredible quantity of bacon, hams, breastsand hind quarters of ducks and geese, exposed tothe beneficial current, partly for home consumption, and partly for sale."I was," says the same traveller, " surprisedin almost every village through which I passed,at the number and size of the flocks of geese andducks, as well as the quantity of other poultry that crowded the streets. Such an enviableabundance of provisions, and the consequentabundance of down and other feathers, is the natural result of a number of small farms, whichsupport large families, and render not merely thenecessaries, but the delicacies of life, plentifuland cheap. There is scarcely an infant in a cottage, notwithstanding their apparent poverty, that1COLOGN; PRIVILEGED BEGGARS. 183does not sleep in the winter season between twofeather beds; nor is there the least danger thatany individual should starve with hunger, unlessat a period when this happy country maybe visitedwith the scourges of war.COLOGN, twenty miles, or two posts, fromDusseldorf, is a very ancient city upon the leftbank of the Rhine. It was built by MarcusAgrippa, son-in-law to Augustus.The numerous masts of the ships in the portgive this city, on your approach to it, a magnificent appearance; but all the ideas of grandeuryou may have formed are dissipated when youenter the gates. The walls are nine miles in circumference... When the French entered it in thebeginning of the late war, great part of thehouses stood empty, and many were really tumbling down. A large house with a court, stables,and spacious gardens, might be had for fifty guilders a year, or about five pounds sterling.Agreat part of the inhabitants were privilegedbeggars, who formed here a regular corporation;they sat here upon rows of stools placed in everychurch, and took precedence according to theirseniority. When the eldest died, his next neighbour took his place, and many of them had stoolsin several churches, which they visited alternatelyon the days ofthe most brilliant spectacles. Onthefew days ofthe year on which there were no spectacles, they roamed through the streets, and besieged the traveller with a rudeness and insolence not to be conceived.Another, and not less numerous class of theinhabitants, were ecclesiastics. There were thirtynine nunneries in this place, and above twentyconvents for men. The race of abbés had multiplied here beyond belief; they were not, however,R 2184 ABSURD CORPORATION LAWS.like the clerical beaux of France, but rough dirtyclowns, besmeared all over with tobacco; theyplayed for pence with the peasants in the publicalehouses; or, after having said mass, employedthemselves in the most unworthy occupations.The whole city was governed by the absurdcorporation system, and by one instance you willsee how impossible this system renders improvement. A baker settled here from the Palatinate,and by baking bread much superior to that ofCologn, which could be eaten only by its inhabitants, he soon drove a thriving trade. Jealousyof his good fortune soon brought his brethren ofthe company to his house, and they pulled downThe affair was carried into a court ofjustice. On the day it was to be determined, notonly the company of bakers, but the other companies of barbers, tailors, &c. assembled roundthe court-house, and swore they would put anend to the magistrates andthe magistracy together,if by their decree they allowed any man to bakebetter bread than the other gentlemen of thehis oven.corps.The magistrates knew their men, who, on aformer occasion, had hustled them in the churchyard, and, admonished by the precedent, theymade this spirited decree: " That whereas thisaudacious baker had taken upon him to bake breadsuch as the rest of the corporation did not bake,he should build up his oven again at his own expense, and for the future be cautious only to bakesuch bread as the town had been wont to feedupon.'"" "There were six burgo-masters of Cologn, twogoverning each year; they wore a Roman toga,half black, half purple, a large Spanish hat, Spanish breeches, waistcoat, &c. The mayor hadINSTANCE OF MOCK AUTHORITY, 185also his lictors, who carried the fasces before himwhen he appeared in his public character.In the war before the last, one of the Frenchregiments desired to march through the city, butit was opposed, under pretence that the King ofPrussia was their liege Lord in his capacity of 1Duke of Cleves, and the Count of Mark; and theytold the Colonel, who desired to have the gateopened to him, that they were determined to observe a strict neutrality. It was in vain for himtoremonstrate, that he was conducting auxiliarytroops to the service of the Emperor, their sovereign lord. The gates were kept shut, and nothingless than the pleasure of having their houses burned about their ears could content the mob ofthe place. However, when the cannon wereplanted, and ready to fire, the council thoughtbetter of it, and, to the great mortification of thepopulace, determined to permit the passage. Thecommandant, as soon as he got in, immediatelymade the best of his way to the hall to remonstratewith the mayor, whom he found, in all the insigniaof majesty, on his throne, encompassed by hislictors . As these, however, did not prevent afew remarks from being made, the magistrate immediately drew up, and ordering the lictors to raisethe fasces, asked the colonel, " Whether he had aproper conception of the dignity of a Roman-burgomaster." Or " whether he knew, that he represented the majesty ofthe Roman Cæsars, and hadonly opened the door to him out of good will. "The officer, who had drawn up his troops, withtheir bayonets fixed and firelocks primed, in thegrand square, and was in full possession ofthecity, could not abstain from laughing; but as hehad the door already in his hand, the only answer3R 3}186 THE ELEVEN THOUSAND VIRGINS.he made was, " You are not quite right in yourhead."The superstition of this place surpassed everything that can be easily conceived: not contentwith single saints, they had whole armies ofthem.Saint Ursula, with her 11,000 virgins, lays in achurch bearing her name; the walls and floor ofthe church are filled with coffins and bones.Though, as this holy princess lived in the time ofthe Heptarchy, it is somewhat difficult to conceivehow in England she could get together 11,000Virgins, or how a little boat could carry them.But a man here who should subtract a single onefrom the number, would run a very great chanceofbeingknocked on the head. Wonderful as thisstory is in itself, other wonders are brought inconfirmation of it; amongst the rest, there is amonument, which has a small coffin enclosed in it,on which the following words are written: " Anatural child was buried in this church with thevirgins, but innocent as he was, they would notsuffer him to mix his bones with theirs, but drovehim out again, and there was a necessity of burying him above ground." Some, in accounting forthe origin ofthis story, suppose, that the princesshad a maid of honour called Undecimilla, who bysome blundering monk was changed into eleven thousand.Cologn, though entirely paved with basaltstone, is at least a century behind the rest of Germany. Bigotry, ill manners, clownishness, andslothfulness, are visible every-where; and thespeech, dress, furniture of the houses, every thing,in short, is so different from what is seen in therest of Germany, that a traveller might conceive himself in the midst of a colony of strangers.

VEXATIOUS TOLLS ABOLISHED. 187However, it must be owned, that the French revolution, by diminishing the number of priests andmonks in this city, has considerably augmented those persons who are actuated by the rules ofprudence and common sense.There is hardly a river in Europe which is navigated so high from its source as the Rhine is inthis place; the quay, which is above a mile long,is almost always filled with ships; but the goodson board, which, according to the laws of thestaple, should be loaded only on ships belongingto Cologn or Mentz, almost all belong to foreignmerchants; of these the Dutch ships are the mostconsiderable, who are making every effort to regain the superiority of trade which they possessed here before the war. Their ships are distinguished bythe magnificence and cleanliness peculiar to this people.Formerly every prince, so far as his domain onthe banks reached, considered the ships that passedas the vessels of foreigners, and loaded them without distinction with almost intolerable taxes.They did not in the least consider whether thecommodities which passed were the produce ofGermany, or other countries; on the contrary,some of the articles exported from Germany, suchas wine, wood, &c. had greater taxes laid uponthem, in proportion to their intrinsic value, thanany foreign ware.In the small district between Mentz and Coblentz, which, with the windings of the river, hardlymakes twenty-seven miles, there were not lessthan nine tolls. Between Holland and Coblentzthere were at least sixteen; each of these seldomproduced less than twenty-five thousand, and com→monly thirty thousand, guilders a-year In thisestimate is not comprehended a number ofarticles1188 JESUITS' CHURCH AND MONUMENTS.1which paid toll in specie, and made a part of thepay of the toll-gatherers. It likewise often happened, that the temporary revenge of the neighbouring princes occasioned these unpatriotic tributes to be carried much higher than the settledestimate. While the exports of a country werethus crippled by numerous custom-house duties,it is almost incredible that navigation should havebeen so great as it was. Here also commoditiesintended to be carried beyond the city by waterwere to be re-shipped; for, in order to providecargoes for the boatmen of the place, vessels fromthe lower parts of the Rhine were not allowed toascend beyond Cologn, and those from the higherparts could not descend below it. They might,indeed, reload with other cargoes for their return;and as they constantly did so, the Cologn boatmen were not much benefited by the regulation.In a word, neither the situation nor the connexionof this city with Germany, were able to make itmore considerable as a port, than some Dutchtown scarcely ever mentioned in a book, and leftit inferior to half the minor sea- ports in England.The successes of the French in this part of theworld put an end to these vexatious tributes andtolls, and in the treaty of the Confederation ofthe Rhine, the freedom of the navigation of thatriver was formally acknowledged.Amongst the public buildings must be reckonedthe Theatre, the Town- house, an awkward and irregular building, andthearsenal, which is in one ofthe narrowest streets. The Jesuits' Church is oneof the grandest in Cologn, and has the greatestdisplay of paintings over its numerous altars, aswell as of marble pillars. The churches of thechapters are for the most part very large, and endowed with the richest ornaments, which are not,SUPERB CATHEDRAL, PICTURES, &c. 189however, shown to the public, except upon publicdays.Fewtravellers have paid sufficient attention tothe cathedral, which, though left in an unfinishedstate, is a striking object at a considerable distance. This church, a monument of the finestGothic architecture, was made use of as a granary in 1800. From the unfilled area around it,the Gothic architecture, especially of some parts,which have not been joined to the rest, fill themind with awful delight. This genuine chefd'œuvre, it has been observed, unites a degree ofboldness and grandeur, both within and without.Considering that it is the choir only that has beenerected, the interruption of the architect's designmust inspire every lover of the arts with regret;for if the other parts had been executed in thesame taste as the choir, this edifice, beyond allcontradiction, must have been one of the mostmagnificent in the world. Four rows of pillarsbegan in the nave, ofimmense magnitude, formingon each side a double gallery, are sufficient to prove what is here asserted. The choir and oneof the towers are constructed of grey stone, similar to that taken from the quarries in the SevenMountains, near Bonn. Next to the grand andimposing architecture of the choir, the windowsof stained glass, by an effect at once brilliant andharmonious, and by the animation and excellentchoice of colours, cannot fail to fix the attention.Besides, they give the tout ensemble of the choiran appearance of magnificence not easily con- ceived.The loss of Rubens's famous picture ofthe Crucifixion, which used to decorate one of the churchesat Cologn, till it was sent to the Museum at Paris,is very much regretted here. There are very190 FLYING BRIDGE AT COLOGN.few collections at Cologn that contain any picturesof the first masters, one individual excepted, who has a number of very antique paintings. A largedock was lately begun here, for the convenienceof the number of vessels that frequent the port;and as this occurred during the late war, a greatnumber of women were daily to be seen carryingbaskets of earth with singular activity. The soilin the vicinity of this city affords great quantitiesofthe remains of decayed trees; to this the country people give the name of peat, which, thoughextremely brittle, serves the purposes of firing.Every person, on their first arrival at the portof Cologn, will remark, with some surprise, twoCapuchins, who never fail presenting themselvesto strangers, especially as the whimsical costumeworn by these ecclesiastics, and their long beards,always draw such a number of curious spectatorsabout them, that they sometimes find it difficultto proceed. These Capuchins, it is to be observed,belong to a convent here, from which, during thewhole period of the revolution, all the religiouswere not expelled.•The ferry, or flying bridge at Cologn, alwaysmakes a singular impression upon a stranger. Itis formed of a broad platform resting upon twolarge barges like English coal-lighters; from thisplatform a vast wooden frame, like a gallows, iserected, and fastened to the former by strongchains of iron, whilst from the centre cross-piece,a chain of the same kind, ofgreat length, is fixedto the top of an upright pole, standing in each of a long line of boats, the farthest of which is atanchor. By this machinery a powerful pressureis obtained; to each of the barges a rudder is affixed, which, upon being placed in an oblique direction, produces a lateral motion upon the stream•SCHOOLS, LIBRARIES, DEUTZ. 191that acts as a force from above; so that by changing the rudder to the right or left, the bridge is forced to one side or the other of the river withequal certainty and despatch. Fifteen hundredpersons may be transported with perfect ease atthe same time, and carriages and horses drivenover them with safety, from the banks to whichthey are lashed. The Germans calls this machineDer Fliegende Schiffbrucke; the Dutch GeerBrug, or the bridge in shackles. The French callit Le Pont Volant, or the Flying Bridge.St. Ursula, or the eleven thousand virgins, contains a picture ofthe voyage of Ursula, in a vesselwhich, by a singular coincidence, bears a tri-coloured flag; the chapter-house of St. Gereon andits cupola, with its fine church; the church of theMinorites, with its superb portico; the ci-devantpalace of Cologn; twelve hospitals, &c. Formerlythere were two hundred and sixty churches andchapels here, and thirty- seven convents; theFrench revolution has considerably diminishedthis number. Here is a society called that ofEmulation, a central school, and a library, inwhich the original letters of Marshal Turenne arepreserved. Cologn is supposed to contain 7404houses, and to take up three hours in making atour round it. Its walls are ornamented witheighty-three handsome towers and thirteen largegates. Deuts, on the opposite, has a post- office,and a good inn. The swing- bridge, which serves as a means of communication, is very capacious,and is put in motion every hour. The whole cityis paved with basalt- stone,There are several diligences here hung uponsprings, and as they run with six horses, youmay go from Liege to Cologn, or from Cologn toLiege, in one day. There are others that run192 BONN, ROWLAND SHELTZ.'between Cologn and Coblentz. They leave Coblentz at five in the morning, dine at Bonn, andarrive at Cologn between five and six o'clock; theprice is two French crowns, and twelve livres forthe return from Cologn to Coblentz, including allthe tolls and duties on the road.Inns. The Saint Esprit, upon the Rhine; inthe city, the Imperial Court, and the Court of Prague.Manufactures, Trade, Commerce, &c. -Sheeting,cloths, cotton stockings, ribands, paper, tobacco,eau de Cologn, pins, &c.BONN is a post and a half, or sixteen miles andthree quartersfrom Cologn; quitting which place,about a league before you come to Bonn, is thecastle of Rowland Shelts, which stands on a beautiful and lofty mountain clothed with woods andvines, and surrounded by immense hills. Thissituation served as a retreat to an Elector of Cologn, of the name of Thenigsche, who retired intoit with a beautiful Protestant lady; the chapterofCologn, probably more alarmed at the Protestantism than scandalized at the crime, blocked upthe castle; the lover and his mistress, assisted bythe valour and integrity of the garrison, escapedto Strasburg, where the Elector married her, andsacrificed his religion on the altar of Love.The city of Bonn, formerly the residence of theElectors of Cologn, is agreeably situated upon theleft bank of the Rhine. The palace, before theFrench revolution, the residence ofthe electors ofCologn, it may be said, forms the principal ornament of Bonn. The exterior ofthis large edificeis decorated with pilasters ofthe Corinthian order,and fine galleries in the interior. The front to--wards the Rhine is very beautiful. A large grassplat, and a very pleasant promenade, called theBONN; THE SEVEN MOUNTAINS. 193Bastion, serves as a garden to this magnificentpalace; this promenade is bounded by a wall, thefoot ofwhich is washed by the waters of the Rhine.There is a fine prospect from the hill, called Apol- linaniberg.While Bonn was in possession of the French,the apartments in the palace were appropriatedto the accommodation of the members ofthe Imperial Lyceum, and to several manufactories, andamong these, one for making sugar from the Beet- root. Bonn was also a situation for a centralschool. The Hochkreutz near this place, erectedin 1333, is a fine Gothic monument, in good preservation.The architecture ofthe Cathedral of Bonn is ofthe age of Constantine. At the entrance of the choir the statue of this prince's mother is to beseen; the interior ofthis church is very richly decorated; and it has been observed, the splendourof the service performed here is such, that no ideacan be formed of it in France. Several galleriesattached to the exterior, attest the great antiquityof this edifice. No less than five steeples rise fromits roof, which naturally excites an idea ofdisproportion. The interior of the church of the Jesuitsis very rich in its ornaments. At Bonn, the Rhineis passed by a swing bridge. Dusseldorf, Wesel,Cologn, and other places, have the same conveni- ence.In the neighbourhood of Bonn the country begins to undulate, and the vines make a luxuriantappearance. At a distance the Seven Mountainsare seen containing, between them and Bonn, thewindings ofthe majestic Rhine, part of the villageof Popplesdorff, with the ci-devant monastery ofGruisberg Passing the lofty towers of Plettersdorff, the Rhine on the right unfolds itself in all194 RICH SCENERY; REINECK.its glory; on the left the Seven Mountains, namelythe Drakenfels, Wolkenberg, Nonnenstromberg,Hoke, Ochibey, and Hemmerich, are crowned withconvents, and resemble ruins of castles.匾Drakenfels rises perpendicularly from the riverto a stupendous height; midwayit is covered withluxuriant vines, whilst all above is red and greyrock. The other mountains, which recede to agreat distance, appear clad with the clusteringgrape, whilst, on the opposite side, the vineyardssloping to the water's edge extend as far as the eyecan reach. Sometimes an island, sometimes atorrent, brightens before the beholder; then arude gap occurs, through which the eye penetrates intoranges ofother vine - covered mountains.At the base of these hills, on the sides ofthe river,numerous towers and villages constantly appear,defended by ancient walls and turrets, adornedwith venerable churches, brown with age, surmounted with lofty spires, every- where invitingthe investigation of the antiquary, the song ofthepoet, and the pencil ofthe painter.21Inns. The Imperial CourtTrade, Commerce, and Manufactures.The mill-stones here are uncommonly porous,a proofofthe volcanic matter of which they arecomposed. The famous Trass, of which the Hollanders make such an excellent cement, is also theproduction ofthis part of Germany.Bonn, though well peopled, is not large, the number of houses are said not to exceed a thousand. The Jews here have a street to themselvescontaining about twenty large houses. Unpleasant and dirty asthe town is, the walks about it arevery attractive.As you advance from Bonn, on your right is thecastle of Reineck; and beneath a village, called,from the situation of the castle, Lower Reineck.HAMMERSTEIN, REMANGEN, ANDERNACH. 195The inhabitants bear the most inveterate hatredto the people on the other side of the Rhine. Theenmity has subsisted more than three hundredyears. In an engagement under the EmperorCharles the Fourth, the people ofLintz massacredthose ofAndernach and Reineck, sparing only twomen, whose ears they cut off, and sent them withthe news of their misfortune to the widows andchildren of the deceased. Lintz is a small town,and only famous for its capons.HAMMERSTEIN. Nearly opposite to Reineckwas formerly the residence ofthe Princes of Neiuwied. The castle of Hammerstein is of very remarkable construction; the halls within are large;the chimney pieces of fine marble, tolerably sculptured; and the paintings in fresco, are still fresh.The castle itself is built of black marble dug fromthe mountains. Springs of excellent water hereform a little river, remarkable for the flavour ofits trout and the plenty ofits crabs .REMANGEN is the next post, being distant thirteen miles; from thence to Andernach is a postand a half, or thirteen milesand somewhat more.ANDERNACH, the next town, is an ancientplace; the streets are narrow, badly paved and irregular, and the houses of all descriptions. Andernach is, however, particularly interesting to thelover of antiquities. Here are the remains of apalace belonging to the kings of Austrasia; andthe vast subterranean excavations, called the Jews'Baths. The corps of the Emperor Valentinian ispreserved in the principal church of Andernach."Almost all the immense mountains extendingfrom Bonnto Andernach, is composed of basalt and slate. In the small cavities the martins andswallows find refuge, and the children ofthe country people often explore the retreats of these birds$ 2•196 FLOATS OF TIMBER- JULIUS CESAR.at the hazard of their own lives. In an amphitheatre of these dusky mountains, the sombregates, the towers and pinnacles of Andernach appear. Near this town the inhabitants insist uponit, that Julius Cæsar passed over the Rhine, andthat Drusus, the general of Augustus, built one ofthose fifty castles which were erected on the banks ofthis river.Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, &c.—Exclusiveofthe wines and the basalts of the neighbouringmountains, the lapis tophaceous, or tuf stone, is anarticle ofgreat export; the hardest ofthis speciesforms excellent mill-stones, and others are forrepairing the dykes of Holland. It is a species ofthe pomice stone, or imperfect lava, and of volcanic production.Upon this part ofthe Rhine those amazing floatsof timber are to be seen from the adjacant forests,attached to each other, and forming a platformgenerally 800 feet in length, and one hundred andsixty in breadth, upon which a little village, containing about 80 wooden houses, is erected, for themen, women, and children, that accompany theseimmense rafts, which also contain stalls for cattle,a slaughtering house, a magazine for provisions,&c. Thirty or forty anchors, which, with the necessary cables, precede the raft, in fourteen or fifteen boats, prevent it from striking against theshores where the turnings are abrupt, and itscourse is directed by German and Dutch pilots,who, inthis manner, float from the high to the lowcountries, where the whole being broken up, findsa ready market. Above twelve ofthem annuallyarrive at Dort in July and August, when the German timber merchants, having converted theirfloats into good Dutch ducats, return to their owncountry. When the water is low, these rafts are sometimes months upon their journey.NEWIED, COBLENTZ, &c. 197NEWIED is to the left, a pretty town, built on aregular plan. It is situated onthe Rhine betweenBonn and Coblentz. The air is wholesome, andthe country fertile and agreeable. The water isgood, and the fields around produce excellentcorn; yet these advantages have not, perhaps, somuch tended to increase its population, as thefreedom of religion and the exemption. fromtaxes, which have long been enjoyed by the inha- bitants.The mineral waters of Tunnenstein, or Heilbronn, about six miles from Andernach, are excellent, and are very agreeable whenmixedwithwine.The mountains in the environs, and their volcanicproductions, have been illustrated by the re- searches of De Lue, Forster, Humboldt, and othercelebrated naturalists. The vast floats of timbercollected for Holland, &c. on the Rhine at Andernach, exhibit an astonishing and an imposingspectacle.Upon the road near Remangen, on the way toBonn, an inscription is seen cut into the rock, expressing, that the Elector, Charles Theodore, repaired that highway, the original work ofthe an- cient Romans.COBLENTZ is one post, of rather more thanthirteen miles, from Andernach over a good road,and which, under the late French government,was the chiefplace in the department ofthe Rhineand the Moselle, is situated at the confluence ofthese rivers, nine miles from Ments, nine fromCologn, and twelve from Treves. The fortifications are levelled. Fort Marceau, within halfanhour's walk from the place, and the monuments ofthe French Generals Hoche and Marceau, are objects ofcuriosity. Another monument, to the memory of General Hoche, is to be seen not far from $ 3198 RUINS; THE MOSELLE, &c.Weissenthurm, opposite to Newied. The mineraland chalbybeate waters of Tinstein, which may bepreserved ten years without alteration, are notmore than two or three miles from Coblentz. AtRubenach the Chartreuse, once so beautiful, isonly a heap of ruins, in some of which a personresides, who will accommodate the visitors withcoffee. A chapel belonging to it is also preserved.The inhabitants of Coblentz are in general tall;ofa*greeable features, with an expressive countenance; and have much the advantage of theirnorthern neighbours: indeed they seem to haveimbibed some of the vivacity oftheir visitors, theFrench emigrants, who long found a shelter herefrom thetempest ofthe revolution.This city forms a kind of triangle, and is situated in one ofthe most beautiful districts oftheRhine. The stone bridge over the Moselle, wasconstructed in the fourteenth century. It consists offourteen arches; it is five hundred feet inlength, and of an height that vessels can sailthrough without lowering their masts, but it is sonarrow that coaches pass each other with difficulty and caution. From this bridge there is an agreeable prospect, and it affords the inhabitants a promenade ofan evening in fine weather. The streetsofCoblentz are in general regular, thoughthe pavement is not in the best order; but it has the advantage of being well lighted during the winter.Here is a flying bridge on the same principle asthat of Nimeguen, but on a much larger scale,which communicates with the fortress of Ehrenbretstein; the bridge is continually in motion.The toll for afoot passenger is about a penny.The Dicasterial and the theatre at Coblentz arefine buildings. A reading society still assembles.BOPPARTS, LIMBOURG, TREVES. 199in the college of the Ex- Jesuits, where balls arefrequently given.Inns -Le Sauvage is reckoned the best innhere. Several coaches run every day betweenthis place and Cologn.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.--Wroughtiron, wines, &c.On quitting COBLENTZ, the old castle andsmall towns in the vicinity afford a most picturesque prospect. On the right is BOPPARTS,which is supposed to have been one of the fortserected by Drusus. All the modern fortificationswere destroyed by the French.Quitting Coblentz, the common route is throughMontebauer, one post and a half, a distance ofrather more than twelve miles. To Limbourg, apost and a half of thirteen miles, and from thenceto Wirges, another post and a half, being somewhat more than thirteen miles; then to Koenigstein, a post and a half, or rather more thantwelve miles, and from there to Francfort, onepost of rather more than eleven miles. But asthese places are of no great note, we shall leavethem to the left, and describe Treves, St. Goar,Mentz, and the country on the banks ofthe Rhine,called the Rhinegau.TREVES, twenty miles south- east of Luxembourg, and about fifty from Coblentz, is the capitalof the ci-devant electorate of this name, and issituated between two mountains covered with delightful vineyards on the Moselle, over which isa fine stone bridge. It is supposed to have beenthe most ancient city of Germany, as it is expressed by a Latin inscription on the front of theTown-house, but which is an evident exaggeration. It contains many fine palaces and churches,and a multitude of antiquities. In the large ca-200AGRIMBERG, ST. GOAR. &c.thedral of St. Peter many relics used to be shewn,The University was founded in 1454 by theElector Mark and greatly improved in 1722.The library in the Abbey ofSt. Martin, the building formerly belonging to the Jesuits' College,the house of the Knights of Malta, and the celebrated Benedictine Abbey of St. Maximin, in thesuburb, deserve particular notice.The garden of Knoll, and the rocky valley ofPolbin, deserve the attention of travellers.Among these curiosities the castle of Grimberg, sofamous in the days of chivalry, is still remarkablefor its solidity and the loftiness of its towers.Oberstein is famous for its, mills, which cut andpolish not only the agates of the country, but thevarious jaspers, flints, &c. of Russia, Sweden, andTurkey.ST. GOAR is fifteen miles from Coblentz, onthe same side of the Rhine; it is the capital ofLOWER HESSE, and is pleasantly situated on themargin of the river, at the foot of an immenserock almost perpendicular, and approaches sonear the stream, that the houses, which are ingeneral handsome, appear to hang over it; many of them being formed in the rock itself; hencethe access to the upper streets is attended withsome inconvenience to the inhabitants.ny.The whole strip of land from here to Mentz isone of the richest and best peopled in all GermaIn this course of eighteen German miles, orabout eighty-two English, they reckon twentycities near the banks of the Rhine, and that most.of them were known to the Romans!From COLOGN it is common to embark on theRhine, and proceed by water to Mentz. Bythismeans you avoid a very disagreeable journeythrough the bad roads and dreary country of theMENTZ; THE CATHEDRAL, &c. 201Wetterau, and enjoy some ofthe most picturesqueand romantic views that it is possible to conceive.The vessels that perform this voyage are extremely commodious; their decks are railed, andtheir cabins have sash windows, and very decentfurniture. In embarking on the Rhine for Mentz,the first objects that present themselves are theseven large pyramids, called the SEVEN HILLS,which unite the chain that runs from Mentz toCologn. The old part of the town of Mentz isnothing but a heap of black houses, whichthreaten to fall into the narrow streets; but thenorthern parts of the city is very regularly built.Here are three good streets, called the Blerchen,which run parallel to each other from the banksof the Rhine, about six hundred yards within thecity, and are cut almost regularly by very prettycross streets. The palace of the archbishop hasa most commanding view of these streets, theRhine, and the Rhinegau. The cattle market iswell worth seeing. The market in the middle ofthe town, though not regular, is one of the prettiest places of the kind in Germany.The cathedral is an immense old Gothic building; the spire was of wood, and being struck bylightning some years since, was entirely consumed; it burned for fourteen hours. To preventa similar accident, the chapter had the presentspire built to the same height in stone; which costforty thousand guilders, or about four thousandpounds. This cathedral is overloaded with smallornaments, and, what is worse, is so choked upwith shops and houses as to be nearly half concealed. The high rent of houses and shops inthis part of the town is the reason of this abuse.There are few churches in Germany of theheight and length of this cathedral. The interior202 THE RHINE; THE RHINEGAU, &c.of it is decorated with several magnificent monuments of princes and other great personages.Among the other churches, that of St. Ignatius,though little esteemed by the inhabitants, wouldbe a good model of the antique, if, like the cathedral, it had not been overloaded with ornaments. The faces of the inhabitants of this city,and the country round it, are interesting. Thepeasants are strong built, and are distinguishableby their ruddy fresh complexions from the inhabitants of Bavaria and the northern part of Ger..many, who generally have very sallow complexions. You hardly, however, meet with aclever well-limbed person, and this is probablyowing to the absurd fashion which still prevailshere of using swaddling clothes.Boats go every day from Ments to Cologn; theyreach Coblentz as the first stage, and the next daycomplete the voyage; the passage is six livres toCoblents, and twelve to Cologn. At thisplace people coming from Ments may remainthere one day, and on their return take the bathsin their way, performing the whole in a week,provided there is no delay on the Rhine fromcontrary winds, which is very frequently the case.Before we proceed to that romantic part of thiscountry called the Rhinegau, as some persons maywish to proceed by water up the Rhine, we willpresent the reader with the portraiture of anExcursion upon the Rhine.To make a complete voyage upon the Rhine,travellers generally embark at Mentz, or at Cassel,in a coche d'eau , or they hire a yacht, that is, aboat for themselves, or the company. These water diligences, as they are called on the FrenchEXCURSION UPON THE RHINE. 203side of the Rhine, go every day from Mentz toCoblents; and when the days are longest, makethe passage in one day to this place, and in twoto Cologn. The price for each person is sixfranes. If a person wishes to go alone, the bestway is to hire a skiff covered with sail cloth, andas the large boats, or yachts, are very heavy, theskiffs are so much the lighter. The boatmen ofRudelsheim are reckoned the most adroit. Theprices of these yachts, &c. vary so much at different places, that it is always best to make a bargain without trusting to the watermen; yet theyare so convenient, that people may dress theirvictuals on board, and sleep at night. On proceeding up the Rhine, the large boats are towedby horses, and of course go slower than when following the current; and in case of an unfavourable wind, one maybe two long days on the voyagefrom Mentz or Cassel to Coblentz, or the valley ofEhrenbretstein, and it will require two days anda half to return.The Rhine-boats are vessels of such extraordinary dimensions, that they require a particulardescription. On board of these, in a suite of cabins, the owners and whole families reside; thesecabins are generally raised upon the deck, andwhich, in point of commodious arrangement,neatness, and comfort, can scarcely be surpassedon shore. The wares they carry are exposed onthe fore and aft part ofthe deck, and below in thehold they have still larger stores. These vessels are generally six months in their voyage up anddown the Rhine, in consequence of the time theyare detained at those cities and towns situated onits banks, and where they find a market for theirgoods.7But the new causeway made by the French is204 IMPROVEMENTS BY THE FRENCH.very convenient for travellers. The French government, in blowing up those enormous rocksthat formerly obstructed the passage, has madeone of the pleasantest roads imaginable upon theleft bank of the Rhine. To proceed along thiscauseway to Coblentz, &c. it is only necessary tohire a carriage, that will convey you there in oneday, passing Bingen, St. Goar, and Boppart,where you will meet with good inns; nor willyou lose the prospects on the opposite shore; forthe views and perspectives of this majestic river still remain the same. The coaches will run overthis new causeway, between Coblentz and Mentzin twelve or fourteen hours.On a clear moonlight night, the views on theRhine at Wallauf, or Eltvill, are delightful. TheRose Inn at Eltvill, for neatness and cleanliness,reminds the traveller of Holland. If you wishfor prospects, it is advisable to choose the earliestpart of the morning to proceed on foot to Johannesberg, where, from the balcony of the Chateau,you may enjoy one of the sublimest spectacles ofnature; nor will you regret staying there onehour, and employing half an hour more in the descent. The wine of this place continues tosupport its reputation.In less than an hour you may go from Langenwinkel to Geisenheim, from whence it will be proper to go by land to Niederwald, which the CountD'Ostein has metamorphosed into a handsomeEnglish garden. Nature and art seem to have exhausted themselves in the embellishment ofthischarming place. Ruins, temples, and hermitages,excite the surprise of the traveller at every step.Uponthe summit of the hill, the foot of which iswatered by the Rhine, there is a balcony fromwhence you may enjoy a prospect very difficult toRUDESHEIM, BINGEN, &C. 205describe. Stretching your view to the left, alongthe smooth surface of the Rhine, you see Mentz;while, to the right, you see this river labouringto propel its agitated waves towards Coblentz andCologn, in consequence of the narrow rocky passage with which it has to contend. Opposite, yousee the little river Nahe, which, after winding itsway about the hills, mixes its waters with theRhine.Here a walk offers itself to your notice, which,though it may occupy four hours, will well repayyour trouble; this is the walk to Rudelsheim,over the mountain, which is so far from beingsteep or troublesome, that a female may undertake to ascend. Those travellers who navigatethe Rhine, and wish to visit Rudelsheim, oughtto land at Geisenheim: the former of these placesis in a charming situation, and has two good inns,viz. the Crown and the Angel. The first shootsof the vine were planted here in 1074. A bottleofthe best wine here, and at Bacharach, is chargedfrom three to four florins.BINGEN, which the French, during the latewar, have made a very strong place, is at themouth of the Nahe. The Rhine, which joins it there, and runs by a very wide circuit from Basle,foams and murmurs like the sea in passing throughthe famous lock, called the Bingerloch. The vesselsalways grate tremendously in passing this rockybottom; in any other respect, the passage is neither dangerous nor disagreeable. This lock wasthe work of the Hollanders, two or three agessince. The Nieder, or lower lock, is anotherpassage of the same nature; those who do notlike it, may go on shore at Niederwald, and proceed on foot to Asmanshausen, and there rejointhe boat. The districts of Asmanshausen andT206 BACHARACH, GEISENHEIM.Bacharach, are both in the way; and behind thelatter, you have a view of the fort of Pfaltz, theappearance ofwhich has been compared to a ship under full sail towards an entrance into the sea.This fort has been some time abandoned to decay;but of all the ancient castles, whose ruins presentthemselves to your view, those of Winsbach andSchoenberg are most worthy your attention.The convents and monasteries upon the rightbank of the Rhine, are still in a great degreeappropriated to their original destination, particularly Bornhofen, a celebrated place for pilgrims; those on the left, or French side, havebeen devastated, abandoned, or sold, as domainsbelonging to the republic, particularly to foreigners who have converted many of these buildingsinto manufactories, warehouses, &c.; however,the Emperor Napoleon, on passing this way,preserved to the religious ladies of Roland Warththeir ancient residence.Four hours will suffice to go from Geisenheimto St. Goar, so that a traveller may be there intime to pass the evening. The Green Forest hereis a good inn, and a good situation. The Frenchdemolished the fort of Rheinfels, which used tocommand St. Goar; but its picturesque ruins areworth looking at. The salmon fishery here is oneof the greatest curiosities; but here the navigation of the Rhine is rather dangerous for boats.The strong castle of Katz, opposite Goarhausen,is of great antiquity. If, when at St. Goar, youcan rise at four in the morning, you may get toCoblentz, or to the valley of Ehrenbreitstein, byten in the forenoon, supposing the wind is notcontrary, but should that be the case, and thevessel be obliged to luff, or goby its oars, yourvoyage may be prolonged two or three hours.EHRENBREITSTEIN, NEWIED. 207If you do not choose to visit Cologn, afteryou have been at the Valley of Ehrenbreitstein,either from there or from Coblentz you may go toNeuwied; a place well worth seeing, with a goodInn; viz. the City ofBrunswick. Either of theseexcursions will not occupy more than half a day.Asto Ehrenbreitstein, the White Horse is one ofthe best inns; and here the garden ofM. le Chanoine, of Unbeschieden, is well worth attention.In this neighbourhood, is the villa of the PrinceofWeilbourg,the park at Sayn, and the remainsof a Roman bridge, are generally visited bystrangers.In returning from the valley of Ehrenbreitstein,it is best to quit the boat, and take a carriage,and then pass through Embds, Schwalbach,Schlangenbad, and Wisbaden; the post route inthis case is Nassau, one post and a half; Schwalbachtwo: and Wisbaden, through Schlangenbad, twomore. From Embds to Schwalbach, the countryis very hilly. At Nassau you may see M. deStein's fine English garden, and the ruins of thecastle at that place. The Golden Chain at Schwalbach is a good inn; and here are a number ofmineral springs. Stahlbrunnen, or the Steel Wells,are the principal. Here you commonly breakfastat La Salle des Juifs, where is much play. Thereare ordinaries at the Golden Chain, the GoldenFountain, or at the Trefle. The trout and thecrabs of Schwalbach are sought for, as dainties.You may be accommodated with coffee at LaSalle d'Empereur, where there is a pharo tablede rouge et noir. From hence there is a promenade to Adolphseck, and generally a ball everyevening at La Grand Salle, near the alley of Weinbrunnen.It is only one hour's journey from SchwalbachT 2208 SCHANGENBAD, WISBADEN, &c.to Schlangenbad. Put up at the Hotel of Hesse;the baths are at this house. All the country hereabout is woody; yet for green alleys, terraces,and promenades, it is scarcely equalled. A ballis given every Sunday, in the rooms of M. Hanlein. The baths of Schlangenbad are particularlybeneficial to the female visitants, as they are saidto have the property of making the skin smooth.From Schlangenbad to Wisbaden, is two hoursjourney the Eagle here is the best house. Thebaths here, known ever since the time of the Romans, have no less than fourteen springs, besidesother mineral sources. The bath for lame horseswas ruined during the revolutionary war. Thelittle wood, the valley in the meadows, and theruins of Gonnenbourg, are the favourite promenades. Clarenthal, and the Geisenberg, are charming places; and from the site of the hunting- box,built upon the summit of the latter, the prospectis one of the most interesting and extensive inGermany. The principal inns at Wisbaden arethe Eagle, and the Schutzenhoff. There are alsogaming tables, Sunday balls, and an ordinary.During the watering season, a diligence runsevery day between Wisbaden and Frankfort. Andif you should prefer going to Frankfort, by theLimburg road, you may taste the famous Seltzerwaters and those of Fachingen.SELTZERS. About seven miles from Limburg,a descent commences, at the bottom of whichstands this village, is situated a spot in which avaletudinarian might expect to find not onlyabundant accommodation, but many luxuries;but Seltzers is literally and positively nothingmore than an assemblage of miserable cottages,with one inn, and two or three houses, placed ina dirty pass, which more resembles a ditch thanTHE SELTZER WATERS, &C. 209a road. The village may be said to be half a milelong, because the huts, being mostly separatedfrom each other, continue as far; and this lengthwould increase its inconvenience to invalids, ifsuch should ever stay there longer than to see it;for there is nothing like a regular path-way, andthe road, in which they must walk, is almost always deeply covered with mud. The only lodgingsto be had, are at the inn, where the rooms aregood; and three of them are called Court Chambers, having been used by a German Elector, andonce by the King of Prussia. These rooms areas accessible to strangers as any of the otherapartments.The spring is at the foot of one of several hills,which immediately surround the village, and isseparated from the road by a small court-yard.An oaken covering, at the height of ten or twelvefeet, prevents rain from falling into the woodenbasin in which the stream rises. Many thousandsof stone bottles are piled round this court, andfor the sake of the reputation of the spring, careis taken to fill them as expeditiously as possible,before their removal for exportation.Aduty is collected on the water bottled at thespring, and the policy ofkeeping this income entire is said to be a motive for neglecting the condition of the village; a tax could not well bedemanded of those who should drink at thespring, but is easily collected when the water isbottled for removal; visitors at Seltzers are therefore no object. This water is brought to tableconstantly, and at an easy price, in all the towns near the Rhine. Mixed with RHENISH wine andsugar, it forms a delightful but not always a safebeverage in hot weather. The acid of the wine,expelling the fixed air, occasions an effervescenceT 3210 THE RHINEGAU; LANDSCAPES, &c.like that of Champagne; but the liquor has not afourth part ofthe obnoxious strength ofthe latter.The danger ofdrinking it is, that the acid may betoo powerful for some constitutions.THE RHINEGAU. There is a great deal ofwine made in the countries which lie on the southand west of the Rhine; but the true Rhenishcomes only from the RHINEGAU, which lies onthe northern banks ofthe Rhine.While at Mentz, it is common to make partiesof pleasure to the RHINEGAU; the vessels youhire are better than those you commonly meetwith in Germany; and resemble the small Dutchboats. As soon as you pass the winding whichthe Rhine makes to the westward, about threemiles below Ments, you have a prospect beforeyou, which is seldom beheld in any country except Switzerland.The Rhine becomes astonishingly wide, andforms a kind of sea, near a mile broad, in whichyou see several well- wooded little islands on yourright.The RHINEGAU forms an Amphitheatre, thebeauties of which are beyond all description. AtWalluf, the very high hills come nearly down tothe river side; and thence they recede again intothe country, forming a kind of half circle, the other end of which is fifteen miles distant at RuDESHEIM, on the banks ofthe Rhine. The shoresof the river, the hills which form the circles, andthe slopes ofthe great mountain, are thickly scattered with villages and hamlets . The white appearance of the buildings, and the fine blue slatedroofs of the houses, amidst the various greens ofthe landscape, have an admirable effect. In thespace of every mile, as you sail down the river,you meet with a village which, in any other place,LARGE VILLAGES, JOHANNES BERG. 211would pass for a town. Many of these villages contain from three to four hundred families; andthere are thirty- six of them in a space of fifteenmiles long and six miles broad, which is the widthof this beautiful amphitheatre. The declivitiesof all the hills and mountains are thickly plantedwith vineyards and fruit trees, and the woodytops of the hills cast an agreeable shade over thevaried landscape. At short distances we meetwith a rowofrugged hills, running directly downto the shore, and towering majestically over thesmaller ones under them. On one of these greatmountains, just about the middle ofthe Rhinegau,you meet with JOHANNES- BERG, a village whichproduces some of the best Rhenish wine. Beforethis village is a pretty little rising; and near thebanks of the river a very fine old castle, whichcommunicates a degree of grandeur to the wholelandscape. Indeed, in every village you meetwith some large building, which contributes very much to the decoration ofthe whole.This country is indebted for its riches to thissemi-circular hill, which protects it from the coldwinds ofthe east and north, at the same time thatit leaves room enough for the sun to exercise hisbenign influence.The groves and higher slopes of the hills consist ofexcellent pastures, and produce large quantities of dung, which, in a country of this description, is of inestimable value.RUDESHEIM is a rich village, containing about2500 inhabitants. The wine of this place islooked upon as beyond all comparison the besthe RHINEGAU, and consequently ofall Germany.The best RUDESHEIM sells very dear upon thespot, as this is sent abroad by the poor and mid-212 THE BEST RUDESHEIM, &C.dling inhabitants, and the worst kept for internalconsumption.The position of the country also contributes to render the wine dearer than it would otherwise.be. As the best wine grows in its more northernparts, the easy transport by the Rhine to Holland,and all parts of the world, raises its price on thespot above its real value.The spot which produces the best Rudesheimis precisely the neck of land formed by the winding of the Rhine to the north in its course fromMents. This neck, which is a rock almost perpendicular, enjoys the first rays of the rising, andthe last of the setting sun. It is divided intosmall low terraces, which are carried up to thevery top of the hill like steep stairs; these areguarded by small walls and earthen mounds,which are often washed away by the rain. Thefirst Vine was brought hither from France, andthey still call the best grape the Orleanois . Theyplant the vine stocks very low, scarcely evermore than four or five feet high. This way ofplanting the vine is favourable to the productionof a great deal of wine, but not to its goodness,as the harsh parts of it would certainly evaporatemore, if the sap was refined through higher andmore numerous canals. This is undoubtedly thereason why every kind of Rhenish has somethingin it that is harsh, sour, and watery. The produce of the best vineyards, which are the lowerones, in the above-mentioned neck of land, isoften bought beforehand by the Dutch and othermerchants. It may easily be imagined, that thecultivation of vineyards must be very expensivein this country, as the dung, which is extremelydear, must be carried up to the top of the mountains on the peasants' shoulders.BINGENLOCH AND THE MOUSE TOWER. 213In returning to GEYSENHEIM, you may visitthe magnificent palace erected at the expense ofseveral millions by Count D'Ostein. The houseis in the modern taste. Behind Geisenheim several alleys are struck out through a wood, in whichare also some wilderness. The great alley leadsthrough a winding walk to the top of the rock,at the foot of which the best Rudesheim winegrows. At the top of this rock the Count built aterrace surrounded by a rail, commanding one ofthe finest prospects to be seen. You look downupon the vine-hills cut into terraces, and see thechannel of the Rhine hills, which are in a manner enveloped in deep night. This view downthe precipice is most terrific. The rocks, partlycovered, and partly naked, excite the idea of acavern that rock on which you stand stretchesitself to the opposite shore, from whence anothermountain projects like an immense pillar. Theapproximations of these eminences occasion a fallin the Rhine, the noise of which has a wonderfuleffect on the traveller.On the side of Rudesheim and near the shore,you look directly down upon the terrace. Thepassage cut through the rocks has been sufficientlywidened for the largest ships to sail through, andis since called the Bingenloch. The rock whichis supposed to occasion the fall ofthe Rhine, risesconsiderably above the water in the midst of the.stream, and forms an Island partly naked, andpartly covered with briars, on which the cele- brated Mouse Tower stands. Varied and beautiful as this part of the prospect is, it is still exceeded by that which lies straight before you,when on the terrace, you have here a view of thenarrow channel through which runs the riverNahe, which communicates with the Rhine. To214 EXTREMES OF POVERTY AND RICHES.the right appears the well- wooded colossal mountain, to which that on the Rudesheim side is join- ed under water. On the neck of land to the left,BINGEN appears at the foot of another mountain,the top ofwhich is crowned by an old castle. Thischannel, nearly two miles long, is deep and dark,excepting where the red slate ofthe mountain hasbeen cut through, which produces a singular effect;and about the middle ofit there is a stone bridgeover the NAHE, bearing the name of Drusus'sbridge, from Drusus Germanicus, its supposedbuilder. A mill terminates this vista.The clear light, and the distant view ofthe vinecovered hills, the villages and the woods, all indicate the open country behind to be richly providedwith all the necessaries of life.BINGEN, in the direct road from Coblentz isonly fifteen miles from this place.This town once belonged to the Chapter ofMents; a great part of the corn which is carriedinto the Rhinegau, and the neighbouring country;comes through this place, but besides this, it hasveryfruitful vineyards. The hill, at the foot ofBingen forms a steep rock; it therefore enjoysas much sun as Rudesheim, which makes the wineproduced here, little inferior to that.The inhabitants of these regions are rich, andpoor in the extreme: in fact, the happy middlestate is not very often found in countries, thechief product of which is wine; because the cultivation ofthe vineyard is infinitely more troublesome and expensive than agriculture; and it issubject to revolutions, which as it were in an instant reduce the holder of land, to the condition of a day labourer.Thecountry between MENTZ and FRANKFORT,particularly that in the neighbourhood- of Ments,EXCELLENT ROADS TO FRANKFORT. 215is one ofthe richest that can be seen, and the roadis the best and the handsomest in Germany. Tillwithin three miles of Frankfort, it is a straightline, raised, paved, and guarded on both sideswith high stones, which secure the foot passengersfrom waggons and horses. The only defect in thisroad is, that it is too narrow in the middle for twowaggons. All the roads through the domain ofthe city of FRANKFORT, are made in the samemanner. The causeway in the part belonging toMents, is not raised in so expensive a style, asthat of Frankfort, but it is broader; it is plantedwith trees on both sides all the way, and verywell kept. Here and there you meet with noblealleys of walnut, and other fruit trees, the villagesat the end ofwhich, exhibit beautiful perspectives.There is hardly a road in Germany more frequented than this in the territory of Mentz, eachhorse pays two- pence road money, at every post.Two large vessels navigate the Rhine every daybetween the cities of Mentz and Frankfort, whichare constantly filled with men and merchandize.On this roadyou meet with waggons, which at adistance look like large houses; they are drawnby sixteen or eighteen horses, and, as the waggoners say, carry several tons weight: they generally go from Frankfort to Strasburg.The beginning of the road from Mentz, leadsthrough several orchards and vineyards, and thelarge village of Cassel, and through a vale, wateredby a little rivulet, and diversified with corn fieldsand meadows. At the end of six miles you arriveat HOCHEIM, celebrated for its delicious wine:this village, which in England gives to all Rhenishwine the name of Hock, contains about threehundred families, and is exceedingly neat andpretty.11216 HOCHST, HOCHEIM AND FRANKFORT.Between Hocheim and Frankfort, the inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture; the corn of thiscountry is exported far and wide on the Rhine.There are also large quantities offruits and greensproduced here: excellent asparagus and cabbageare the food of the poorest people; nor is there aplace in Germany where they are fonder of, orhave a larger supply of vegetables; ship loads oftheir cabbages, as well raw, as pickled, are carrieddown the Lower Rhine as far as Holland."Thelittle town of Croneburg is situated on an eminence, about six miles fromthe main road, andhas much dealing with Holland in apples, cider,and chestnuts, ofwhich last it has large plantations.About six miles from FRANKFORT, stands thedelightful village of HOCHST; it is situated on arising ground, and has a China Manufactory: anhour's travelling brings you from Hochst toFrankfort. The route just described, is the common one to that city; if however, you shoulddislike to proceed by water from Cologn, yourroad by land, would be through Bonn, Andernach,and Coblentz, already described; at the latterplace you leave the Rhine to your right, and passthrough Montebaur in your way to Limburg, oncea free town of Germany; the best Inn, is theLamb, the accommodations are however very.indifferent. From Limburg it is only thirty-sixmiles to Frankfort; but the road, and the horsesare commonly wretched.FRANKFORT. Passing over a draw- bridge youenter this city through a deep gateway. Thestreets at the time ofthe autumnal fair, annuallyheld here, are full of gaiety and bustle. Thechamber-maids here, and in many parts of Germany enter your room at an early hour, with acomposition offrankincense and other gums of aCURIOSITIES AT FRANKFORT. 217pyramidal shape about an inch high, called aRäucher kertz, which is placed on a candlestickand left smoaking..•"This city was, till the late war, imperial, and isone ofthe most ancient imGermany; it has seve→ral handsome streets and noble buildings. Theprincipal houses are built of red and white stone;the Cassino, to which it is necessary to have a cardof introduction, that may generally be procuredfrom a banker, is very handsome; there are alsoseveral other clubs and assembly rooms: the theatre is spacious and elegant, the performers good,and the band numerous and excellent; opposite thetheatre is a Mall, formed by several rows oftrees,and is much used as an evening promenade. TheRömer, or Town Hall, is a very large and ancientGothic pile, situated in a narrow street; here isthe original Golden Bull. In this building areseveral chambers that have been applied to me.morable purposes: one in particular, whichbefore the late revolution, was used by the electorsupon occasion of chusing a new Emperor. Themembers of the Senate assembled here more recently to invest the Prince Primate with theSovereignty of the city; this ceremony occupiedavery short time. There are some good paintingsin some ofthese apartments, and the portraits ofseveral ofthe German Emperors in fresco. TheCatholic cathedral church of St. Bartholomew, isa venerable relic of antiquity, reported to havebeen built by Pepin, King of France, in 756,enriched by Charlemagne, and plundered by Lewisof Bavaria, on account ofits Chapter adhering tothe Pope. Its exterior is, however, allthat is nowworthy of notice, as it does not contain one objectwithin its walls to gratify the curiosity of thetraveller, the Tomb of Gunther, excepted. HereU

218 PAINTINGS AND STATUES, &e.are, notwithstanding, two ofthe reformed chuchesvery handsome, particularly the German church.The palace oftheTeutonic order is in the suburb ofSachsenhausen, the palace of the Prince of TourandTaxis has, on the principal staircase, an antiquestatue of Roman marble: the Saal Hoff is remarkable for having been the residence ofthe Carlovingians; the remaining public buildings, are theExchange and the Braunfels, the Hotel Dieu,the prison and the Hospital du Saint Esprit; theHotel Rumpf, which contains the Cassino, andthe lodge of the Free masons, M. Schweizer'sHotel; the theatre and the bridge over the Mayn,from whence there are some pretty prospects, areworth visiting, as is the quay upon the Mayn,and the monument of the Hessians, killed here,when the city was taken by the French.Here in the gallery of paintings, among otherscarce books, the first edition of the Bible uponparchment, by Faust, is to be seen, printed in1462. Several gentlemen here have large collections of paintings, medals, minerals and naturalhistory. Among the literary establishments, thoseof Senkenberg, the noble Chapter of Cronstets,the Lutheran Gymnasium, the public school fordrawing, and Schwartzkofs' Literary Institute, arethe principal.What has been called one ofthe luxuries of thisplace, or a Cabinet Literaire, is nothing more thana Book Society, but to which any stranger may beintroduced by a member; here in consequence ofthe regulations adopted, reading is not disturbedby any conversation with the librarian.The suburbs ofFrankfort, are formed ofbeautisful and romantic walks, and vineyards, enlivenedby handsome country houses. On the road nearthe western entrance, stands a monument com-MONUMENTS AND PLACES OF DIVERSION. 219posed of a helmet, a lion's skin, and emblems ofwar, in bronze, made out of the cannon, takenby the King of Prussia from the French, at Mentz.This monument is elevated upon a stone pedestal,rising from an artifical rock, upon which are inscriptions, commemorative ofits having been raisedto the memory of the gallant Prince of HessePhillipsthall, and three hundred brave Hessianswho perished on this spot, when the French wereobliged to evacuate the town in the year 1792.Inns.-The hotels ofthis city, are said to bethe most magnificent in Europe; The Court ofEngland, The Roman Emperor, The Red House,The White Swan, The Weidenhoff, and the Weidenbusch.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.-Waxedcloth, vinegar of Rhenish wine, geographicalcharts, tapestry. The celebrated fair here, isabout Easter, and the other in the month ofAugust or September, each of them continue threeweeks. Frankfort, as well as being the Bank toseveral places on the Rhine, is also the staple formost of the commodities that are brought up anddown this river.The principal places of diversion, are, the German Theatre; the Grand Cassino; the AmateursConcert, the Collegians Clubs, the Public Balls,the River Bath, the Floating Bath, and the CoffeeHouse at the Golden Horse. All the public gardens about Frankfort are worth seeing.Boats gofrom Frankfort to Mentz, OffenbachandHanau every day; a coach also sets out every dayat noon for Ments, which it reaches about fouro'Clock; the price is no more than six livres forgoing and returning. During watering time,another coach runs every day between Frankfortand Wisbaden: others go to Basle, &c. HappilyU 2220 THE JEWS-STREET, OFFENBACH.the Juden Strass or Jews- street, being partlyburnt down by the French in 1796, their quarterhas been considerably enlarged, several thousandsofthese persons till then being walled up within avery small space. The societies in Frankfort called Colleges, are very agreeable, and it is not difficult for a stranger to get introduced into them.OFFENBACH . From Frankfort it is a pleasantexcursion to this elegant little town, about fiveEnglish miles distant. The society here is refined and accomplished.Trade, Commerce, Manufactures.-Here is avery large depot of carriages, the manufacture ofwhich is performed in this place, with almost equallightness and beauty to that of London. Thereare several other manufactories, namely, those ofjewellery pocket-books, tobacco, toys, &c. andhere, M. Johannot, professes the art of printingwith stone, instead of metal types. .1-ROUTES FROM FRANKFORT TO DARMSTADT. 221CHAP. V.Route from Frankfort to Munich.Posts. Miles. Hours.From Frankfort to Darmstadt Darmstadt to HeppenheimHeppenheim to Heidelberg11 1811 1614Heidelberg to Manheim 12 Manheimto Schwetzingen . 1 8Schwetzingen to Weyhousel 1 11Weyhousel to Graben.................... 1 10Graben to Carlsruhe 12 Carlsrube to Rastadt ******** 1 10 Carlsruhe to Durlach ... 13 13 Durlach to Pforzheim ........ 14222442131912 112 1 10Westerstenten to Ulm 15... 1414144224H19101517-Pforzheim to StutgardStutgard to Blockingen Blockingen to GoppingenGoppingen to Geislingen .Geislingen to WesterstentenUlm to GuntzbergGuntzberg to Augsberg Augsberg to Eversberg Eversberg to Schwabhausen Schwabhausen to Munich.... ........THERE are two routes from Frankfort to Augsburg, the first by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Manheim, Carlsruhe, Stutgard and Ulm. The secondby Hanau, Wurtzbourg, Bamburg, Nuremberg,and Ratisbon. Pursuing the first we find Darmstadt, which is a post and a half, orabout eighteenEnglish miles from Frankfort , the road is sandy,U 3 m191t sat of Rysys nove bus do222 SAXENHAUSEN, MINUTE POSTS, &c.and for a considerable way, lined with luxuriantnursery-grounds and vineyards. Crossing a noblebridge over the Mayn, you pass through Saxenhausen. About four miles from Frankfort, therewas till lately, a plain oaken post about six feethigh, upon which, under a painted star and crown,was written in German, " Sovereign Territory ofthe Prince Primate of the Rhenish Confederation." Upon this road are a great number of little posts painted white, and numbered, they arecalled minute posts, by which the pedestriantraveller, is enabled to ascertain with great exactness, the progress he makes in his journey.A very handsome avenue of stately poplars, ofnearly two English miles, forms the approach tothe city of Darmstadt, which is nearly surroundedby a lofty wall, though not capable of affordingmuch protection against an enemy. This town,was the residence of the celebrated Landgraves ofHesse, prior to the French revolution. Amongits most remarkable buildings, are the three Castles, and the magnificent Palace of the LandgraveLewis VIII. The vault in the church where theprinces are interred, the extensive buildings forthe Colleges of government, the Academy orGymnasium, the park, and the royal pleasuregrounds, are all objects of attention, and there isan Orphan House a little way out of the town..In the public Cabinet ofNatural History here,some very large fossil bones are conspicuous;being the jaw bones of some of the supposed antediluvian animals, which have been used as pillarsto a house at Kostheim, demolished by the artilleryduring the seige of Mentz. Many parties of pleasure go from Darmstadt to Anheiligen and Eberstadt. Agood diligence always sets out twice aweek, and even every day to the latter mentionedplace, during the fair ofFrankfort.ANHEILIGEN, EBERSTADT, &c.223The suburbs contain some handsome houses.For a capital, Darmstadt is small, and its palaceinfinitely too large for its size; the late EmperorJoseph, sarcastically remarked, that the buildingwas big enough to accommodate himself, and thenine electors: however, very little of the internalpart is finished, and most of the windows areboarded up; the Grand Duke and his familylately resided in a part ofthe new palace, projecting from the old one, looking towards the Gardens that immense structure is built in imitationof the Tuilleries, and surrounded by a broaddeep, but dry ditch.kBut the building most worthy of notice, is theExercierhaus, or house for maneuvering thetroops in the winter: it extends along one sideof the space of ground allotted for the parade,is three hundred and fourteen feet long, and, onehundred and fifty-two broad; the ceiling of thisspacious room, is self-supported, by a vast andmost ingenious frame- work ofwood, without anyconnexion with pillars or arches below; abovethis ceiling, are a great number of apartments; ina part of the room below, the artillery of theGrand Duke, was kept in great military order.About four thousand troops, it is said, can be manoeuvered in this room with ease. The gardens adjoining, are laid out in the English style;they are very extensive and beautiful; much tastehas been displayed in their arrangement, and thehouse of the chief gardener is very pretty;being open to the public, they form the principalpromenade. In one part of them, a neat andsimple mausoleum, was erected by the order ofFrederick the Great, to the memory of one of theLandgravines of Darmstadt, a princess said tohave been remarkable for the powers of her mind,224 HEIDELBERG, A LANDGRAVINE, &c.and the beauty of her person: upon which is thefollowing elegant latin inscription, composed bythat great Prince." Hic jacit Ludovica Henrica, Landgrafia Hessiæ,.. sexu fœmina ingenio vir.""Herelies Louisa Henrietta, Landgravine of Hesse,a woman in form , inmind a man.'At a short distance from the garden, is a park, inwhich wild boars are kept for hunting.The country round Darmstadt, is very beautiful, abounding with corn, and various sorts offruit trees, frequently unprotected by any fence;the common path leads through avenues ofthem:amongst others, there is a red plum, called swetchen, peculiar to the south of Germany, whichgrows in great plenty and richness in this quarter.A law here, makes it penal to drive off theroad upon the grass. The religion of this placeis Lutheran.Inns.-There is a capital Hotel in the city; andthe Post- house is an excellent Inn; the MaisonD'Hesse, is a new Inn on the causeway leading to Manheim.From Darmstadt it is thirty miles, or threeposts to Heidelberg, through a pleasant country,and on the celebrated road called the Bergstrass.HEIDELBERG lies forty-four miles south eastof Ments, and forty-two south east of Frankforton the Mayne. It was formerly the residence ofthe Electors ofthe Palatinate, but on account oftheir dispute about the Church of the Holy Ghost,Charles Philip, removedto Manheim. The cathedral church of the Holy Ghost, is now dividedbetween the Calvinists and Catholics. To theTHE FAMOUS TUN, MANHEIM. 225Catholics belong the church of St. Peter, togetherwith a school, and to the Lutherans, the churchof Providence. Till the French revolution, theCatholics had six convents here. The famous largeTun is kept in the castle, it was repaired in 1751,and found to contain 230 tuns, 3 barrels of wine.The church of St. Peter, contains the sepulchralinscription of the celebrated Olympia Fulvia Mo- rata. Here are several literary and scientificassociations; and a charming promenade toWolfsbrunnen, where excellent trout is to be had;but unhappily this delightful walk has been deprived ofits venerable trees; the road along theNeckar, however is still romantic. The orangerynear Heidelberg, is remarked as being the firstspot in Europe, in which hot-houses were made use of. The remains ofthe Ancient Hall of theEquestrian Order, are still visible here."Trade, Manufactures, and Commerce.- Woollen stuffs, carpets, silk stockings, velvets, soap,&c.痛Inn. The Bull's Head.MANHEIM is a post and a half, or twelve milesfrom Heidelberg, and is situated on the east bankof the Rhine, at its confluence with the Neckar.It is nearly of a circular figure, surrounded withmoats and ramparts, and defended with thirteen bastions. It contains six public squares, sevenCatholic, one Lutheran, and two Calvinistchurches, a jew's synagogue, the town house, thearsenal, the mint, and three hospitals. Thechapel belonging to the castle, the splendid operahouse, the theatre, and the college and magnificent church, formerly belonging to the Jesuits,are objects ofcuriosity, as are the astronomicalobservatory, and the botanical garden, Thewater of Manheim, is very bad on account of itsxx1226 PROMENADES, SPIRE AND ITS REMAINS.swampy situation. The public promenades here,are the Castle gardens, the bridges over theNeckar and the Rhine, the Parade, the Ramparts,and the Planken.The streets are all as straight as arrows, beingwhat they call Tirées au Cordeau, and intersecteach other at right angles; this never fails toplease at first, but becomes sooner tiresome thana town built with less regularity. When a manhas walked through the town for halfa forenoon,his eyes search in vain for variety; the same objectsseem to move along with him, as ifhe had beenall the while on ship board.This town has three noble gates, adorned withbasso relievos, very beautifully executed.Inns.-The Court Palatine; The OrdinaryDiligence, puts up at the Peaco*ck, or GoldenPlough; The Bouc D'Or, &c.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.- Porcelain, wines, ribbands, hats, leather, petit or,bleacheries, &c.SPIRE, though not exactly in our purposedroute, we must not omit. This ancient Imperialcity, or rather its remains, situate only ten milesfrom Manheim, though so often taken and retaken by the contending armies during the revolutionary war, is still an object of curiosity. Thechoir of its ancient cathedral has been rebuilt.It once contained marble tombs, silver coffins,and the remains of many ancient Emperors andEmpresses, all in a great measure destroyed ordispersed. Here are still fifteen Catholic churches,convents, &e. amongst which, the college formerlybelonging tothe Jews, claims the first place. Inancient times, the Emperors held many Diets atSpire, and it was the seat of the Imperial AulicCouncil, till 1689. The territory of the townGEMERSHEIM, CARLSRUHE. 227contains great numbers of almond trees. Thechapter of this bishoprick was composed offifteen canons and twelve domiciliaries.GEMERSHEIM, seven miles south of Spire,at the junction of the Queich, with the Rhine, isworth visiting. The gold produced in the environs ofthis place, is said to have given a name tothe florins and ducats ofthe Rhine. This placeis abundantly supplied with fish, as the town issurrounded on three sides by the Queich, theRhine, and Morasses. The toll collected hereupon the river, used to be considerable. Catholics,Calvinists, and Lutherans, have churches atGemersheim.In your road from Manheim to Carlsruhe, atabout eight miles from the former, you come toSCHWETZINGEN, once a palace of the ElectorPalatine, the gardens of which he improved atan enormous expence. The Orangery is largerthan that ofVersailles, and the gardens altogether,are said to be little inferior to those of that place.The grounds are laid out in the French style.The Theatre here is smaller than that of Manheim.From Schwetzingen, byWeghousel and Graben,each a post, it is thirty-three miles to Carlsruhe,a post and a half from Graben.CARLSRUHE, the capital of the late Elector ofBaden. The Chateau is much admired; thewalks about this princely residence, thirty-two innumber, penetrate the park in the form of a fan,and viewed from any eminence, offer a singularspectacle.The town of Carlsruhe is built on a regularplán, consisting of one principal street, above anEnglish mile in length, extending a considerabledistance from the palace, in a parallel direction298 ANECDOTE OF A MARGRAVINE OF BADEN.with it; and several others, which go off at different angles, in such a manner, that which everof them you enter, the view is terminated bythefront of the palace; but none of them are allowedto encroach on the spacious area which is kept open before this edifice.The houses here are as uniform as the streets,being of an equal size and height, so that onewould be led to imagine that none of the inhabitants are in any considerable degree, richer orpoorer than their neighbours. There are, indeed,a few new houses more elegant than the others,built on one side of the palace for the officers ofthe court, but they are not, properly speaking,in the town. This palace is of wood, and thefollowing anecdote reflects no small credit on itsbuilder, one of the Margraves of Baden; he hadan income of about 20,0001. a year, but when hesucceeded to it, he found the debts very considerable; he however cleared them, by a severe andhonourable economy. A traveller, who passedthrough the town exressed his surprize at seeinga palace entirely ofwood. " True, Sir," said thePrince, "you may think it ought at least to havebeen of brick; but I could not be more magnificently lodged, without laying expensive taxes onmy subjects, and I wanted only a roof to lay my head under."From Carlsruhe to Durlach, is thirteen miles,being a post and a half. DURLACH is situated atthe foot ofa mountain, on the banks of the Plintz.It is a large town, but has an uncommon dullappearance, though the streets are uniform andthe houses good.' 'RASTADT, celebrated on many occasions, is asmall town and district, ten miles from Carlsruhe, and fifteen from Stolhoven, in the ci-devantCOLLECTION OF ANTLERS. 229Margravate of Baden, situated in a delightfulplain on the river Murg, which here dischargesitself into the Rhine. It is a handsome place,and was the residence of the Catholic line ofBaden- Baden, which became extinct in 1771.The noble castle was built in 1689, by Lewis,the famous Margrave. The negociations for peacebetween the Emperor and France, commencedhere in 1713, between Prince Eugene and Marshal Villars. In 1798, a Congress was appointedto meet here, to compose the differences of thepowers then at war, which broke up the year following, without effecting the intended purpose.Two ofthe French ministers were massacred soonafter leaving the town. The castle here is builtupon the model of that of Versailles. Here areseveral Turkish trophies to be seen, taken byPrince Louis of Baden, with a fine collection ofAntlers, and the apartment in which the Princeexpired. There are fine views from the garden,near the chapel, and from one of the little towersof the castle. The admirer of the beautiful innature, should not neglect to make an excursionfrom Rastadt, into the delightful valley of theMurg it is a Switzerland in miniature. TheKniebis, a strong post, celebrated during the latewar, is not far from Rastadt.Another excursion, often made from hence, isto Baden, distant about six miles. Here thewaters, from six different springs, is communicated to the inns. The scenery from the balconyof the castle is very grand, but the subterraneanhall under the edifice is the most striking; as hereit is said, that secret and terrible tribunal, knownby the name of Vehm Gericht, used to be held.Travellers are admitted into these large anddreary vaults, but they should be very carefulX230 THE GOLDEN COUNTRY, STUTGARD.not to stay till the gates are shut. Near the village of Gernsbach, upon an eminence, calledStaufenberger Kopf, the pedestal of an antiquestatue of Mercury is to be seen.At Buhl, a small distance from Rastadt, commences what is called " The Golden Country,"on account ofits fertility. The village of Offenthalis famous for its red wine. Not far from Buhlare the warm springs of Hueb; the price for partaking of them is moderate, andthe arrangementsvery convenient. Between Buhl and Appenweyer,it is necessary to pass through the village ofSALSBACH. Here, about 500 paces from thechurch, to the south- east, travellers are shewnthe spot on which the great Marshal Turenne waskilled, July 27, 1675. The tree under which hedied, is still to be seen. From this spot also thechapel may be seen, under the altar of which,the heart of this general was deposited. CardinalRohan caused a pyramid to be erected here; andGeneral Moreau placed a guard of honour on thatspot, in 1797. The new monument, erected bythe French Republic, is but a small distance fromthe high road, which we quit near the curate'shouse to turn round the church-yard.1 Rastadt, not being in the direct post road, thecommon way is by Durlach, a post and a half, orthirteen miles to Pforzheim, and from thence twoposts and a half to Stutgard. staibSTUTGARD, the capital of Wirtemberg, and theroyal residence, is situated on the Nesenbach, 17miles north-east of Tubingen. It is surroundedby a number of delightful vineyards and gardens.Most of the streets have a fine appearance. Itsmost remarkable buildings are, the old and newPalaces, the Chancery, the Ducal Academy erectedin 1685, with its observatory and instruments; the´LITERARY ESTABLISHMENTS, PROMENADES. 231three principal Protestant Churches, the Catholieand Lutheran Chapels; the French LutheranChurch, the Church belonging to the OrphanHouse, and the Barracks; the Menagerie, thePrince's Palace with its cabinets of natural andartificial curiosities and collection of coins; thetown house, &c. &c. The military academy iswell worth notice. Stutgard contains one of thelargest libraries in Europe, including the Duke'sunparalleled collection of Bibles, purchased byhim of Lorch and Panzer. During the late revolutionary war, Stutgard was several times inthe hands ofthe French.Here are several literary establishments, andthose ofthe fine arts; as the Academy of Painting,Sculpture and Architecture; the Royal School,&c. The Royal gallery of pictures is very excellent; here is also a collection ofmilitary charts, tothe amount of 30,000, formerly belonging toGeneral Nicolai. What is called the Sadlery, ishere an object of curiosity, as it contains all thesaddles, harness, &c. &c. belonging to government. The promenade before the Castle, calledthe Planie, is very handsome. There are manydelightful places in the environs of Stutgard,particularly the Solitude, the Hirschbad, andLudwigsburg, about nine miles distant: here isthe new Chateau, called Seehaus, containing somechefs d'oeuvre in sculpture, painting, and graving.The Menagerie here contains a great number ofKangaroos, the flesh of which is sometimes eatenat Court. The park of Hohenheim, about fourmiles and a half from Stutgard, is at present muchneglected. Here, what is called an English Hamlet, or little village, is to be seen, the tomb ofCestus, and the Roman Baths. By makingScharnhausen in the way to Hohenheim, the trax 2232 HEILBRON, TOWER OF ST. KILIEN.veller may have an opportunity of seeing themonument which the late duch*ess of Wirtembergerected to the memory of Zollikoffer, an excellentpreacher, of liberal principles.The inhabitants of Stutgard are a handsomestout people. The women are tall and slender,with fair and ruddy complexions. The naturalriches, the ease with which a maintenance wasprocured, either at court, or in the country, beforethe late revolutionary war, caused them to liveexceedingly well; they seemed, to a stranger,to enjoy a double portion of every necessary of life.The Stutgarder is so attached to his home, thatifyou remove him but thirty miles from it, he isimmediately seized with the maladie du pais, orhome sickness.Inns at Stutgard. The Roman Emperor, TheEagle, and The Hunting Horn.From Stutgard it is sixty-two miles to Ulm,and part of the road is indifferent. It is, however,adviseable to push forwards, as the accommodations at Goppingen are far from inviting.HEILBRONN is not in our road; but, as aplace of some note, we cannot entirely pass itover; it is situated upon the Neckar, and latelybelonged to the King of Wirtemberg.う The Gothic tower of St. Kilien is one of thefirst objects. In the archives of this place, theletters of Francois de Sickingen and De Goetz deBerlichingen (two celebrated knights) are preserved. Here is also the tower in which the latterwas imprisoned. Here is a covered bridge. TheWartthurm and the Maison de Chasse, are twoplaces of pleasure. The baths of Lowenstein, inthe vicinity, are famous for desperate cases oftheBARBAROSSA, MINERAL WATERS. 233intestines; and the air of Heilbronn is deemedvery salubrious.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. - Paper,brandy, leather, cloth-dressing; Transit, and Commission business , are very active here.From Stutgard, the first post is to Blockingen,twelve miles, and from thence another post oftwelve miles to Goppingen. From hence, to theleft, we see the ruins of the castle ofHohenstaufen.The unfortunate Conradin, who perished at Naples, was the last branch ofthis illustrious house.As an instance of the instability of human greatness, it may be recollected, that the renownedBarbarossa once ruled here. The mineral watersnear Goppingen, are said to disturb the stomach.The road from Stutgard to Geisslingen, thenext post, rather more than twelve miles, is equalin beauty to some of the finest scenes in Italy;and the diversity is enriched by the constant view of the Neckar and the Fils. From here it is apost exceeding ten miles to Westerstenten, andfrom thence a post and a half or fifteen miles toULM, which is situated upon the left bank of the Danube, near its confluence with the Lauter andIller. The Munster or Minster here is a vastGothic edifice, and its portico a chef d'oeuvre 5and to reach the summit ofthe tower we ascend400 steps. Here, on the 17th of October, 1805,General Mack, the Austrian commander, beingdeserted by the Archduke Ferdinand, surrenderedto thelate Emperor of France, with 86,000 men.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.-Thebleaching grounds here are so considerable, that12,000 pieces are sometimes hanging up at once.Pearl barley, asparagus, pastry, called Les painsUlm. The most singular branch of their industry at Ulm, is the Snails which they fatten andx 3234 ULM AND ITS ANTIQUITIES.export to the amount offour millions per annum .Inns.-The Golden Griffin and the ArbreForte.From Ulm you may embark on the Danube forVienna. The navigation is about sixty miles, butextremely disagreeable and even dangerous. Thevessels, consisting of little more than planks,hastily put together and ill constructed.From Ulm, by land, you proceed through aflat and sandy country, but with good roads toAugsburg.From Ulm, it is a post and a half, or nineteenmiles, to Guntzberg; and from thence it is a postand a half, or twenty- two miles, toAUGSBURG, formerly a free and Imperial city,belonging to Bavaria; it is nine miles in circumference. Of its edifices, the most remarkableare, the Pfaltz, or the vast buildings of the cidevant Bishop-The Hall, in which, in 1530, thecelebrated confession ofAugsburg was read; thisis now divided into a number of apartments--TheCathedral, and its twenty-four chapels, in whichthe stained glass, the gates ornamented withbronze, and several valuable paintings, particularly the raising of the siege of Vienna, are muchesteemed-The ci-devant Abbey of Saint Ulric,the Chapel of Fugger, and the altar painted bySchwartz The organ in the church of the Recollets, is supposed to be one of the largest in Germany-The Town House is certainly one of themost regular buildings upon the continent; thevestibule is very handsome; and the Golden Hall,on the second story, is superb; here are manyfine paintings-The gate, called the Einlass, orthe Wicket, as a fine piece of mechanism, iswell worth seeing. Among the public fountains,the most remarkable are those of Mercury, Her-VARIETY OF AMUsem*nTS. 235cules, and Augustus. At Augsburg, the Botanistsmeet at the house of the Curé Frauenknecht; theEntomologists at those of Messrs. Hubner andPffiffer; and the Mineralogists, at M. Langs.-M. M. Lotter and Walch, have a great numberof geographical charts, and the engravings in thepossession of M. M. Haid, Tessari, and Wilhelm,are very numerous.Nocity in Germany is so rich in Roman antiquities as Augsburg. A family here, of the name ofSeuffert, have a singular curiosity among them:a cravat that once belonged to the great GustavusAdolphus, snatched from him by a young womanwhom he wished to salute.Among the places ofamusem*nt are the GermanTheatre, the Academy of Music, the balls, theclubs,and the parties ofpleasure called Trinkstuben.The public walks are to the Park of Mesorce,where there is a monument in honour of the Archduke Charles; to the Ablass, and to the SevenTables, or a number of drinking houses, veryagreeably situated in the villages ofGoggingshen,Oberhausen, and at Koble.Many of the houses are ancient, being builtwith little attention to the rules of modern taste,though there is a great deal of real beauty anduniformity of parts in them. There is an Academyof arts here, under the protection of the magistrates.The city of Augsburg is supplied with water from the river Lech. that runs at some distancefrom it. The aqueducts which convey the waterare much to be admired.Trade, Manufactures, and Commerce. -Persians, cottons, galoon, silver and gold; ornamented paper, images, filagree work, perfumes,ices, tin ware, jewellery; musical, mathematical,236 MUNICH, EVERSBERG, SCHWABHAUSEN.and other instruments. Watches in great demandat the German fairs; fustains, the first ofwhichwere made here.Inns -The three Moons, the White Lamb,and Golden Grapes.Ifyou proceed directly on your road to Fiennaby land through Munich, the first post in yourway is Eversberg, a post and a quarter or tenmiles, then to Schwabhausen, a post and a halfor fifteen miles, and then to Munich is a post anda halffarther, or seventeen miles.MODE OF BUILDING AT HANAU. 337CHAP. VI.Route from Frankfort through Ratisbon to Munich. 1Ho Posts. Miles. Hours.From Frankfort to Hanau .... Hanau to Dettingen ......Dettingen to Aschaffenberg1. 804 4 101 3Aschaffenberg to Wurtzberg..... 3 27Wurtzberg to Bamberg... 540Bamberg to Erlangen.... 2 16 SErlangen to Nuremberg.. 2Nuremberg to Ratisbon.... ...... 12 24 6 44Ratisbon to Staubing.. 3 22 34 Staubing to Munich.. 6 50 10THE traveller desirous of visiting Ratisbon mayproceed by Hanau and Nuremberg, through thatcity, to Munich.HANAU, is the capital of a county ofthe samename; it is eight miles from Frankfort, and is oneof the most regular towns in Germany. It issituated in a champaign country, onthe river Reg.nitz, just before it falls into the Mayne, and is divided by that river into the old and new towns,both encompassed with good walls and other fortifications. The houses are all built on a level;almost all the streets terminate in a grand square,which is the centre of the town, and where themarkets are kept. At each of the four cornersis a well, walled about with red marble, andadorned with some foliage, or other ornaments ofiron, crowned with a large lamp. There is a canal dug from the new town to the Mayn, for the238 DETTINGEN, AFFSCHAFFENBERG.convenience of commerce. The castle in whichthe counts used to reside is in the old town, uponthe bank of the Mayn; it has a high tower, iswell fortified, and makes a handsome appearance.About a mile from the town stands a pretty country house, called Philip's Repose; here the apartments are nobly furnished, and the gardens laidout in great taste. Williamsbad is another placeof public resort.In the environs of Hanau there are great plantations of tobacco. The neighbourhood of thisplace is rendered remarkable by being the sceneof the last battle fought by Napoleon, the lateEmperor of France, in his disastrous retreat fromLeipsic.Manufactures, Trade, Commerce, &c.-Woollenstuffs, snuff, porcelain, playing cards, fire-arms,jewellery, gold and steel works.DETTINGEN, four miles from Hanau, is celebrated bythe battle fought in its vicinity in 1743.It is said, that English travellers, who come thatway, purchase skulls, bones, and even bullets, thathave been dug out of the ground there from timeto time.ASCHAFFENBERG is a small town situated onthe river Mayn, with a strong stone bridge. Thecountry about this city is uncommonly fruitful; itis famous for producing a great number of appletrees, with the fruit of which they make a cider,which only a connoisseur can distinguish fromRhenish wine; it has a good deal of spirit, and is sold as dear as wine.About Lonfield, the Spessart ends, and a goodroad conducts you to WURTZBERG: this city isalso divided into two parts by the riverMayn, connected by a stone bridge of eight arches, adorned with statues. The town is well fortified, and

WURTZBERG, Gothic EDIFICES.239pleasantly situated in the midst of gardens, andhas a good castle. The streets are narrow, butthe houses are in general handsome. The cathedral is a vast building of Gothic architecture, andwas immensely rich. All the ornaments of thealtar, the pulpit, and the two great candlesticksbefore the altar, were of silver; and there werealso several statues of the same metal, till thelast war.Close bythe cathedral, stands a magnificent modern chapel, built ofthe most curious marble, anddecorated with brass, gilding, and every othercostly ornament. Among other churches, thatof the Jesuits is the most magnificent. The collegiate church of St. John's is a small but handsome structure, built of free-stone, with a neatfront, a high dome, and richly ornamented withcarving andgilding. The church of St. Augustine,is noted for the statues of several saints. Thegreat hospital is a stately building, where fourhundred persons of both sexes are maintained.There are fifteen or sixteen other hospitals atWurtzberg, and the old abbey of Scotch Benedictines: the University of this city was formerlymuch frequented.The new episcopal palace stands near the gatethat leads to Nuremburg, and is one of thefinest in Europe. This magnificent structure is360 feet in front, and forms five great courts. Theoutside is of free stone, but the principal staircase, the chapel, the guard- chamber, the greatrooms of the palace, are lined with marble. Thegardens are answerable to the magnificence of thebuilding, being adorned with fountains, grottoes,an orangery, &c. The duke's residence is highlyworth notice. The great staircase is ornamentedwith several paintings by Tiepole. In a part of240 BRAVE DEFENCE OF THE CITADEL, &C.the hall of this chateau, a person stamping withhis foot, produces a sound similar to that of thunder. This chateau, in 1804, was stripped of mostof its paintings. The citadel and the cellars,which were famous for their excellent old wine,when taken by the Swedes under Gustavus Adolphus, are now as empty as the arsenal. The citadel, at present, is remarkable for nothing but itsfine view, and the circular building which it contains, supposed to have been an ancient temple ofthe goddess Freia. Many traces remain of thebrave defence made by this citadel in 1800. Nearthis there are two monuments by Grumbach, tòthe memory of a prince bishop, who was assasinated. The grand square, and the chapel of St.Mary, with the cathedral and the Julius Hospital,always attract the attention of strangers. Thebotanic garden belonging to this hospital is anobject of curiosity, as are also the collection ofsurgical instruments to be seen here, amongstwhich are preserved a great number of skulls collected on the field of battle, near this city, in1796, and distinguished by deep wounds. Thebridge over the Mayn, and the new fountain ornamented with a handsome obelisk, are worthseeing. The parade is one of the principal promenades, as is likewise the royal garden, and thewalks to the mountain of St. Nicholas, and thehospital of the Capuchins, where more marks ofthe siege before mentioned are to be seen.Trade and Manufactures.- The principal trade here is in the native wines. The best wine inFranconia is produced in the vicinity of Wurtzberg. In the thirteenth century there were only2000 acres of vineyard in cultivation here; nowthey are estimated at more than 10,000. Thewine of Leiste ranks first ofthe Franconian wines,VARIOUS STRONG WINES; BAMBERG. 241as at a certain age it yields to none of the dearestof foreign growth. The most genuine and the best, grows only on the side of the fortress atWurtzberg, situated towards the mountain of St.Nicholas. The wine of Stein, of the same age,possesses more warmth than that of Leiste, but istoo apt to affect the head. A part of the vineyard which produces the former, belongs to thehospital, and is sold by the proprietors as thewine du Saint Esprit in sealed bottles, at the rate of two florins and fifteen kreutzers each Nearthe vineyard of Stein is another called La Harpe.Some parts of this belong to the religious ofHouch, and the best wine is produced here, theyalso sell by the name of vin du Saint Esprit.Among the most distinguished wines they reckon that of Escherndorff and Schalkberg, which,like those before mentioned, are drank in smallglasses like spirits. Another wine, called Calmus,is sweet, and approaches the best Hungarian orMadeira. This wine grows upon the rock ofTrieffenstein, near the Mayn and Aschaffenbourg.In Franconia they also make vins de paille, likethose ofAlsace, but rather more aromatic.Inns. The Swan, opposite the bridge; theCount of Bavaria; and L'Arbre de Treffle.About forty miles from Wurtzberg stands BAMBERG, agreeably situated on the river Regnitz, inthe midst of a pleasant fruitful country. It wasformerly an Imperial city. The town is largeand populous, and being in the very centre ofGermany, contiguous to seven or eight differentstates, it is a very great thoroughfare. The streetsare wide, and the buildings neat and regular.There are no fortifications to the town. Thecathedral is one of the most magnificent in theempire. The Emperor Henry 11. and his empress,Y242 JEWELS; ANCIENT MANUSCRIPTS.lie buried here; her statue is on the right hand,and this is accounted for by saying she died a virgin. The treasury of this church is full of costlycuriosities, particularly the Imperial crown ofHenry II. consisting of six plates of gold adornedwith precious stones, and another of his empress,composed of two circles of gold richly set withpearls and jewels. Here is likewise a folio manuscript of the four Gospels in Latin, upon fine vellum, in a neat Roman character, with some Gothicletters interspersed, and most beautiful miniatures;the binding is adorned with pearls and preciousstones. There is another Latin manuscript in folio, ofthe four Gospels, with a Commentary by St.Jerome, and a third in Gothic letters, with a binding of prodigious value; all these presents HenryII. is said to have made to the church, besides agreat many relics which he brought from Rome.Here are several convents. The BenedictineAbbey, dedicated to St. Michael, stands on an emi- nence ofthe same name. One of its Abbots, whowasagreat botanist, caused the church to be painted within and without, with all sorts of knownplants and simples.Here are two palaces, the old and new; theformer stands on an island formed by the riverPegnitz, and has a large orangery. The new palace is a vast pile of free stone, with a very regular front, and two large wings, containing verycommodious apartments, painted with historicpieces, and situated on an eminence, from whenceyou have an extensive prospect. The neighbourhood of Bamberg is very pleasant; but thoughthere are but few vineyards about the town, thesoil is fruitful in corn. Within nine miles of thistown, at a place called Pommersfelden, there is avery beautiful palace, which may pass for one ofPOMMERSFELDEN, FORCHEIM. 243the best in Germany. The way to it from Bamberg, is through a large forest of fir, aboundingwith deer, and containing a lake. The house is offree-stone, built in the form of a square, with alarge tower at each corner. A portico runs roundthe great square court, the walls of which areembellished, at equal distances, with 50 or 60 headsof deer, ofan extraordinary size. There is a magnificent staircase, perhaps one ofthe best contrived in Europe. The entry, supported by severalcolonnades, leads into a saloon, which serves as apassage to the garden, in the form of a grotto,adorned with fountains, columns, and statues ofmarble. The ceiling, the sky-light of the staircase, and the arches of the principal apartments,are painted by Italian masters; and the whole islaid out withgreat judgment and splendour. Thestables answer exactly to the palace which theyfront. They are built in form of a half-moon,with a pavilion, having in the centre an oval saloon, from both sides of which you see all thehorses. This saloon is painted in fresco, and looksone way to the court and the other to the ridinghouse. The gardens of Pommersfelden are answerable to the magnificence of the building; in aword, every thing belonging to this fine house isworthy of it.Leaving Bamberg you proceed to FORCHEIM,the Sacoritum of the ancients. It is situated atthe confluence of the Regnitz and Weser, and istolerably well built. There is a strong castle here,and the town is regularly fortified.Eight miles from Forcheim stands ERLANGEN,commonly called CHRISTIAN ERLANG, a town ofFranconia. This place was built by the Frenchrefugees, who settled here on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The town is in a very pleaY 2244 ERLANGEN, NUREMBURG,sant situation, and elegantly built, having severalhandsome streets and beautiful houses. TheFrench erected a great many manufactures hereofcloth, stockings, and hats, which met with surprizing success. From hence it is but a ride oftwelve miles to Nuremburg, through a very sandycountry, but well cultivated and interspersed withvillages.NUREMBURG is situated near the conflux ofthe rivers Regnitz and Pegnitz. It is a place ofvery great antiquity, and generally believed tohave its name from the Norice, who built afort onthe hill, where the castle of Nuremburg nowstands, to defend themselves from the Huns, whohad driven them out of Austria, their former country. The city is situated on a plain, and is aboutseven miles in circumference; it is encompassedwith a wall and towers, after the old method offortifying. The streets are large and well paved,the houses generally built of hewn stone, five orsix stories high. The outward gate of the houseshere, though ever so large, on the least touchopens immediately, by means of an iron springupon the first floor; an invention which saves thetrouble of going up and down stairs. Not onlythe porches and walls of the houses without, buteven the vestibules, and many of the inner apartments, are adorned with stags' heads and theirhorns. The ceilings for the most part are of Polish ash, which makes a glittering shew, and thejoiner's work is excellent. Their market- placesand squares are large and spacious, and adornedwith handsome fountains. The river Pegnitz,runs through the middle of the city, which it enters by twelve large arches under the wall, and issues out on the other side of the town in thesame manner; but is not navigable. However, itCHURCHES AND PAINTINGS. 245turns a vast number of mills in the town, for corn,paper, iron, &c.At one end of the city, is a large flesh market,built of hewn stone, on whose gate the butchershave placed a great ox of stone, lying on his belly,with gilded horns and hoofs.This city has been said to have five hundred andfifty streets and alleys, ten market-places, thirteenpublic baths, and a vast number of conduits.Theirchief fountain is adorned with a great manystatues ofbrass; the sea-horses about it, are muchlarger than the life, and there is a Neptune threeyards and a half high.This city is extremely populous, the inhabitantsbeing reckoned above sixty thousand. ThoughNuremburg is so large a place, yet it has properlybut two parish churches, those of St. Sebald andSt. Lawrence. St. Sebald is the principal church,with a vast collection of relics. They shew herea wooden crucifix, that passes for a master-piece,and was made by the famous Albert Durer. Thereis also another ofbrass, weighing 1878lbs. and se- veral other curiosities. The tomb of St. Sebaldis a fine piece of architecture. St. Lawrence'schurch is the largest, and is frequented chiefly bythe nobility, most ofwhom have their tombs andescutcheons here. Both these churches are inthe Gothic taste, but the last has eight doors,which is looked upon as a piece of singularity.Thegreat church-yard is worth seeing; it containsabove three thousand tombs, with epitaphs andcoats ofarms wrought in brass.Among the remaining churches, the most remarkable are those of St. Margaret, and that ofSt. Catherine, where Martin Behaim, the CaptainCook of his age, is interred; he is said to havecontributed very much tothe discovery of America.Y 3246 THE CASTLE OF NUREMBURG.In the church of St. Clare the most ancient pieceofpainting upon glass in the world, is to be seen,under the date of 1278. The chapel of Mendelcontains the seven pillars of Adam Kraft, a religious monument of the fifteenth century, marking seven degrees of the passion of Jesus Christ .The town- house is very large, adorned with abeautiful and well- proportioned front, but has nosquare or court before it. There is a long galleryhere, on the ceiling of which afamous tournament,that was held above three hundred years ago, isrepresented in relievo. Here are a number ofpaintings by Albert Durer. The council chamber, dining- room, and other apartments, wellpainted and gilt, are filled with the arms ofall nations, and adorned with curious pictures, medals,idols with shells, plants, minerals, and other natural productions. The floor is paved with giltand various coloured stones; and in one of thechambers there are pictures of most of the greatpersons in Germany, who have been entertainedhere. The city cellar is two hundred and fiftypaces long, and contains, as it is said, twenty thousand tuns of wine. They have a very fine observatory here, with all the necessary instruments ofastronomy.The castle is an ancient building after the Roman manner, and said to have been first built byNero. It stands on a high rock, and is of an irregular figure. A well here is said to be six hundred feet deep, and the chain of the bucket toweigh three thousand pounds. In one ofthe hallsof this castle there are four Corinthian pillars,about fifteen feet high, which, they say, werebrought from Rome by the devil, he being challenged todo it bya monk, which, nodoubt, is equallytrue with the story they tell of a conjurer's leap-ANCIENT MANUSCRIPTS, COPPER MILLS. 247ing, on horseback, from the top of the castle overthe town ditch, in proof of which they shew theprint of the horse's shoes in one of the stones ofthe parapet.The arsenal at this place is one of the best furnished in Germany. There are two great hallsin it, each two hundred and fifty paces long. Theyreckon three hundred pieces of cannon, but mostof the other arms are now out of date. Many ofthese great cannon are of a monstrous bore, and are called mermaids and basilisks.In the town library, which is in a cloister thatformerly belonged to the Dominicans, there areabout twenty thousand volumes, collected mostlyout ofthe ruins of several convents at the time ofthe Reformation. The most ancient manuscript isa Greek copy ofthe Gospels, which they say is ninehundred years old, with the prayers and hymnsformerly used in the Greek church, in charactersvery different from those now in use. They have,in this library many rarities and curious antiqui- ties.This city had the privilege of keeping most ofthe Imperial ornaments made use of at the Emperor's coronation; as the Imperial crown withwhich Charlemagne was crowned, his mantle, thegolden globe, his sword, his golden sceptre, theImperial cloak, all of them richly adorned withprecious stones, the gloves and the buskins covered with plates of gold.The mills for turning works in copper, in thiscity, are well worth seeing, though a stranger willfind some difficulty in gaining admission. Here areeleven stone bridges, three ofwhich are remarkable,particularly that called Fleischbruche, which consists of but one arch, and is reckoned a fine piece of architecture.248 SUBURBS OF NUREMBURG, DUTCH TOYS.The house inhabited by John Sachs, a poet,whof ollowed the profession of a shoemaker, is atpresent a cabaret. In a promenade between Tulnau and the Gleishemme, there is a large stone,upon which you may have a sight of Nuremburgfrom one end to the other. Here two annualfairsare held. The people, in general, are very honest,but too full of compliments. The women arehandsome, but apt to stare and laugh at strangers.There are two suburbs to this city, one calledWehrd, and the other Goffenhoff. At each gateof the city a man is employed every night to goto the top ofa high tower, from whence he soundsa frightful horn, to call people home from the suburbs, and at the second blast every one, exceptthe patricians, must hasten to town, or be shut out.Near the town walls, on the bank of the riverPegnitz, is a large square, called the Field ofMars, where the youths are exercised in wrestling,and other manly recreations. In the neighbouring hills, and even on the plains, there are quarries of stone, which, though very soft, when freshdug, grows as hard as marble, after being exposed awhile to the sun.Those toys, which we call Dutch, were first imported hither from Nuremburg. Every thing theNuremburgers possess is owing to their geniusand extraordinary diligence; that alone procuresthem plenty; for the country round them is sandyand barren, scarcely affording any commodity fortraffic, but receiving the greatest part of its valuefrom the labour, and ingenuity of the inhabitants.Inns. The Red Horse, the Red co*ck, theGolden Goose, the Bitterhelts, &c.RATISBON, OLD FASHIONED HOUSES, &c. 249.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. - Mercery and hardware, a great quantity of which isexported to Holland and Spain, and from thenceto the Indies, to Africa, &c. gold and silver wire,earthen-ware, tobacco, playing cards, geographiccharts, manufactured tin, copper, &c.RATISBON. FromNuremburg to this place isa distance of forty-four miles, through a countryuniformly dull, and through roads rugged andforlorn. The village of Seinengen offers you,under the name of an inn, to bait at a wretched hovel! The exterior of Ratisbon is dark and discouraging. It is situated on the right bank oftheDanube, at the confluence of that river and theRegen. It still contains the remains of some ofthe palaces of the old Dukes of Bavaria, which are venerable pieces of architecture."The city is large, populous, and pretty wellfortified with a double wall, ditches, and ramparts.The situation is such as affords every thing forthe pleasure and profit of the inhabitants. Theneighbouring fields abound with corn and pasturage, besides vineyards, which produce a strongand palateable wine. The houses are generallywell built, and the streets wide. In one of theold-fashioned houses, over against the town-hall,there is a famous monument, representing theEmperor Henry the Fowler, and a duel betwixta Turk and a nobleman of this city, in the year913, with the exact representation of the lances,armour, and habits of those times.The bridge of Ratisbon, esteemed the fineston the Danube, was begun in 1135, and finishedin 1156, at the joint charge of Henry of Bavariaand the city. It consists of fifteen large arches,supported by square pillars, defended from theviolence of the water, and the shoals of ice in250 MANUSCRIPTS AND PAINTINGS.winter, by sharp three-cornered buttresses. It istwenty- three feet broad, and one thousand andninety-one long. It has three handsome towersbuilt upon it; on the other side of it, you enterthe Bavarian territory.Amongthe public buildings most worthy of notice, is the church ofthe Holy Trinity; the cathedral built in 1400: upon one ofthe pillars, is thefigure of a dog coming out of his kennel; a veryancient bas relief in marble, representing Christfeeding 5000; the Bishop's Court, the Abbey ofSt. Emmeran, which resembles a little town, andin which there is a manuscript of the year 870, ingolden letters, and in an old Lombard character,ornamented with jewels; the church of NiederMunster; a Roman sepulchral stone; the churchof the Minorites and its fine paintings, one ofwhich is by Guido; the college of the ci-devantJesuits; the Scots church and convent; the Hotelde Ville, and the divers halls, in which the Diet ofthe Empire used to assemble.These are the principal cabinets, collections, libraries, &c. That of the Prince of Tour andTaxis is open to the public; the city library, containing 20,000 geographical charts, and eight ancient Roman marbles; the library, mathematicaland physical cabinet of the Abbey of St. Emmeran; the Scots library, and that of M. Dietrich;the cabinet of mathematical instruments of theBishop of St. James; with the subjects in naturalhistory, the paintings and engravings of Messrs.Seckardof, Harrer, Hoppe, Meier, &c.In the environs of Ratisbon, the curious traveller should visit Stadt am Hof; the ChartreusePreul and Priening, belonging to the order of St.Bennet, where there are some paintings upon cobwebs; Brennbrunn, particularly on WednesdaysPROMENADES, STRAUBING, LINTZ. 251and Fridays; Einhausen, a solitary farm-house,but much frequented; and Winzer, where thereis a fine view upon the Danube. The principalamusem*nts at Ratisbon are the masked balls; theGerman Theatre, three times a week; the Reading- room; the Cassino at Haut Woerth, and the winter concerts at the Red co*ck.Inns. The White Lamb upon the bridge, avery good inn; the Three Helmets.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.-Linen,lace, stockings silk and worsted, needles, fishhooks (the latter exported to England), fire-arms,pistols, in particular, so frequently in demand,that it is necessary to hespeak them long beforethey are wanted; goblets for use in Turkey, &c.STRAUBING, twenty- two miles south- east ofRatisbon, is situated upon the right bank of the Danube. The town is built on the summit andsides of high hills. Here is a fine collegiatechurch, and the ci-devant college of the Jesuits.The convent of Carmelites contains the monument of Duke Albert, and some others of note.The Abbey of Ober Ablaisch, possesses a rich library. Sossau, in the vicinity, is a famous placeof pilgrimage. The celebrated crucibles of Passau, so useful to chemists, are made ofplombagineformed into a kind of petrifaction with clay.LINTZ, is the capital of Upper Austria. Thegrand square here is ornamented with a pillar.The castle offers a fine view. The beauty of thewomen here is celebrated all over Germany. Thisplace has lately been twice in the hands of theFrench, viz. in 1805 and 1809. The old townis composed only of one street. The church ofSt. Ignatius is the largest and handsomest in thetown. There is a bridge here over the Danube,252 VOYAGE ON THE DANUBE DESCRIBED.of twenty very wide arches.. This place contains about 15,000 inhabitants.Manufactures, Trade, and Commerce. -Here arethe most considerable manufactories of woollenstuffs of any in the Austrian dominions.Should any one wish to go by water from Ratisbon to Vienna, which is, however, a most inconvenient journey, the following is a description of the voyage on the Danube.The Danube is without contradiction the mostconsiderable river in Germany with respect to itsbreadth, its depth, and the length of its course.In commerce it yields to the Elbe, but the latteris much inferior in the magnitude and populationof the places situated upon its banks. It alsoexceeds the Elbe, in the number of fine views, asthe shores of this river above Meisen, offer littlemore than sandy plains and uninteresting meadows. The Danube, on the contrary, never ceasesto exhibit mountains, rocks, bays, &c. whichamuse the traveller by their endless diversity.Near Passau we soon perceive an increase in thestrength of the current from the accession of theInn. Beyond Lints, the Ens falls gently into theDanube, the breadth of which is here considerably increased. Between Ulm and Passau the Danube is closely shut in, by a collateral chain of highmountains. Concealed as it were at the bottomof these, the traveller, approaching it by land,hears the roaring of the waves long before he cansee them. Next to the Rhine, the banks of noriver are so thickly strewed with the ruins ofcastles, convents, and chapels. Many of theseare so ancient, that their fallen masses seem incorporated with the grey rock. Here and there,beyond these barren ridges, we see the pleasantSCENERY UPON THE DANUBE. Z 253"2meadows clothed with a rich vegetation, feedingnumerous flocks: when the boat has proceeded aconsiderable time between this wall of rocks,which at length, almost meet at the summit, afterthe eye has been searching in vain for an outlet,and the ear has become almost wearyofthe monotonous sounds of the waters, the sight is all atonce so agreeably surprized, by a double view ofenamelled meadows and fields, burdened as itwere with all the gifts of nature, that one seemsto awake from a frightful dream, intothe embracesoflove and happiness; so striking is the contrastbetween rude and uncultivated nature, povertyand plenty, and in general, between every objectwhich now presents itself to the view, and thosewhich before seemed the mere caprice of naturesThis diversity of scene, is carried to the highest degree, by a great number of towns andvillages, images of saints, crucifixes, and hermitages, which alternately suggest sentiments gay orserious, sombre or sublime; and the morning fogsupon the Danube, have the peculiar effect ofthrowing a kind ofroseate tinge upon every object,till the more powerful beams of the sum have completely dispersed them .But the vacant surface ofthe Danube, is neverenlivened by vessels, whose spreading sails conveyan idea ofbusy commerce; onthe contrary, all thatnavigate this river, are floated with the tide, orconducted bythe use ofoars; and at a distance, havermore ofthe appearance of wrecks, than realities.Those that go against tide, are towed either byhorses or men, and after all, proceed but slowly,and not without danger, on account of the rockyand uneven surface of the shore in several places.In others, vessels going with the current, proceedwith considerable velocity. It is not only at Ratis-254 BOATS AND INNS ON THE DANUBE.bon, where there are sixteen or seventeen boats,but at every place between this and Ulm, thatvessels set out every Sunday at noon for Vienna;a common passenger pays no more than a crown,un gros ecu, and none more than a ducat: however, the common boats have many disagreeablesabout them; genteel passengers, unless they quitthe deck, and go below in bad weather, will findthe low and course vulgarity of the common conversation intolerable. Much time is also lost inthe stoppage of the boats at a number ofplaces, where they carry on a contraband trade;by the long delay at Engelshardelle, and from thedirty and disgusting inns, in which you must passthe night; bythe frequency ofthe boats runninga ground, and by the fragility ofits construction,being neither calculated to endure wind or waves.In fine weather, there is little shelter in the heatof the sun; and in the cabin, which is the onlyrefuge you have, there the wind coming in at thecracked sides, the smell of strong liquors, andthe fumes oftobacco will often compel the travel.ler, to prefer the pelting of the storm , to theseinconveniencies; and if you get through the troubles ofthe day, there is very little rest at night.The rooms in the inns, have always several beds inthem, and as most ofthe inn-keepers are butchers,the houses are more or less subjected to the smellof a slaughter house; and in summer time areinfested by flies, almost beyond endurance: thelowing of the cattle, in readiness to be killed,generally prevent strangers from sleeping in thenight; and added to all this, there are commonlya set ofdrunkards, and others, who by the aid ofa miserable violin, and other inferior instruments,are sufficient ofthemselves to frustrate all the purposes of repose or tranquillity: still this is not all,this miserable scraping often lasts till day light,WHIRLPOOLS IN THE DANUBE. 255if it is not sometimes interrupted by particularbrawls or a general quarrel. To avoid thesedrawbacks upon happiness, the passenger who hashis pocket pretty well lined, has only to hire aprivate boat, and go alone, or to engage with aselect party.The voyage by water from Ratisbon to Vienna,is sixty German miles, which may sometimes be made in three days and a half; eleven ducats maybe the price of a private boat for this purpose.Opposite Passau the Danube forms some verypretty aits, orlittle islands, and upon the declivity ofan eminence, not much above the water, we seethe little castle of Krempenstein. Turning fromthenorth to the south, appears the fine castle ofFurstentein; and wethen pass the foot of a rock,with a small chapel upon it, which distinguishesthe Bavarian frontier, from that of Austria.a considerable distance to the left, we see a fineold tower, after which, we soon approach Engelhardzell: we first however arrive at Hafnexell,inhabited by potters only. The melting potsmade here, are famous all over the continent.Engelhardzell is the first place where we are visited by the Austrian Custom House officers; whoare uncommonly severe in searching for tobacco;sometimes the unlading of the passage boat here,will take up two or three days.AtThere are two whirlpools in this part of theDanube; the largest ofthese, is caused by somesteep rocks in the middle, that form an island;but, as the boats always pass to the left of it, thereis no danger, unless the water should be very low,or theboat men be intoxicated. But though thereis nothing like the danger, generally apprehendedfrom these whirlpools, the watermen always saytheir prayers before, and after passing them.z2256 MELK, THE DEVIL'S WALL, MUNICH.Opposite MELK, we approach the superb ruinsof Shoenbuhl , not far from hence, a natural ridgeofrocks is called the DEVIL'S WALL. The people ofthe country, have a tradition that this arosefrom a vain attempt ofthe devil, to stop the current of the river, in consequence of the rocksdropping out of his hands, faster than he couldpick them up. A little beyond this wall, is thecastle of SPITZ, famous for its wines; and wecome next, to the superb and romantic ruins ofthe castle of THIERSTEIN, the prison of theheroic Richard Coeur De Lion of England. Opposite Mautern, is the vast abbey of GOTWICH,with its superb buildings, its ancient manuscripts,and its learned and hospitable monks. We nextperceive KLOSTER NEUBOURG, and soon afterLEOPOLDSBOURG, till the eye is struck all atonce, by the prospect of Vienna, opening majestically in its whole extent.The unpleasantness of the voyage to Vienna,will most probably determine you, to proceed tothat capital by land; in that case, you may visit Passau in your way.

• 意 MUNICH. Returning to our direct road, we find

this city 15 miles distant from Augsburg; it is thecapital of Bavaria, situated on the Iser, which heredivides itself into several channels. The fortifications are indifferent, but the streets are broadand regular, the houses well built, and orna.mented; the market place is extremely fine, andthe houses about it uniform, with piazzas andrich shops underneath. In the magnificence of itschurches and convents, Munich long surpassedall the rest of Germany; the royal palace here,may compare with most in Europe; the longgallery is adorned with 130 miniature pictures;and there is another gallery, the ceiling of whichCURIOSITIES AT MUNICH. 257represents the principal towns, rivers, and castlesofBavaria. The great hall, called the Emperor's,is a beautiful apartment 118 feet long, and fiftytwo broad, which Gustavus Adolphus, said hewas sorry he could not get removed to Stockholm.Here are paintings ofsacred history on one side,and classical subjects on the other; beyond it is ahall, where the electors used to give audience toforeign ministers. The hall of antiquities brought from Rome exceeds all the rest: here are 854busts of jasper, porphyry, brass, marble, &c.The library contains a vast collection of printedbooks in most languages, principally ancient, andamong several valuable manuscripts, is a Latintreatise in folio, in an old square character, saidto have been written by Pope Clement I. to St.James the Apostle. The Chamber of Rarities,contains the figures of Parnassus, and the nineMuses in coral. The gardens of the palace arevery fine; but as they are laid out in the Frenchtaste, with terraces and water-works, they affordbut little pleasure to an English eye; at the lowerend of the garden, there is an orangery, and inthe upper part a summer house, in which, in thesummer season the Elector used to have a drawing room: the piazza in the garden, leads to avery fine riding house 366 feet long, and 76 feetbroad; it has 80 great windows, and a galleryruns all round for the spectators, when there arecarousals or tournaments. Here is also a magnificent opera house, and a stage with superb decorations. The nearest church to the palace, is thatofthe Theatins, which with their monastery, wasbuilt by an Elector. The great church at Munich,dedicated to the Virgin Mary, hastwofine towers,each 333 feet high: from the entrance into thischurch, such a regularity is observed in the disz3258 CURIOSITIES, PALACE OF NYMPHENBURG.艷position of the pillars which support the roof,that not a window is to be perceived in it, thoughthere are a great many: in the choir is a magnificent tomb ofthe Emperor Lewis of Bavaria:in the Virgin's chapel is an altar of Ebony, thebases, chapiters, &c, ofivory. The convent oftheFranciscans is a fine spacious building, noted fora piece of machinery, representing two Englishcavaliers, to whom an angel blows a trumpet:the bed ofCharles VII. is also here, with its embroidery of gold, silver, and pearls, weighingtwenty- four quintals; here is also a piece oftapestry, representing the feats of Otho of Wittelsbach;an altar is likewise to be seen here, which wasonce in the possession of Mary Queen of Scots:here is also a Trajan column, and the famous pearl,called the Palatine, with the red agate, whichbelonged to the Chevalier St. George. But it issaid, that several of these paintings and curiositieshave disappeared during the revolution.&Inns.Madam Sturzel's is an excellent inn.- Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. Ribbands, galoons, cotton stockings, tapestry, playing cards, pencils, breweries, porcelaine, &c.•"Three English miles from Munich, is thecharming palace of Nymphenburg, situated in themidst of a plain. Adjoining the gardens there is alittle park, which as well as the adjacent fields,abounds with pheasants, partridges, &e. Thereis also, a neighbouring park of very great extent;a grand avenue leads to the iron gates of thispalace from Munich, consisting of a double row ofelms on each side a beautiful canal, having ateach end, a spacious basin adorned with waterworks. The first room you come to, is a loftyspacious saloon, from each side ofwhich, thereis a passage into several apartments beautifully laid out, and magnificently furnished; in one ofWESSENBERG , SALTZBURG, &c. 259them, are pictures of the sixteen mistresses ofthe Elector, Maximilian Emanuel, and the Emperor Charles VII. a sight which decency mighthave spared. People enter the garden from agreat hall, by a descent of marble steps: the firstthing that strikes the eye is a parterre of vastextent, at the end of which, is one of the mostagreeable woods in the world: this wood is divided by three walks; the centre walk that frontsthe great pavilion of the castle, has a large canalin the middle of it, and is adorned with finestatues; the second walk on the right hand,leads to the mall, where there is a pavilion, called the castle of the Pagods, built in the Chinese form, and richly adorned with Indian furniture; the third walk leads to the castle ofBaths,opposite to the castle of the Pagods on the otherside of the canal. Thebeautiful edifice, containingspacious marble baths, is surrounded by finepieces of water, embellished with cascades andstatues. In the gardens there had used to be acloister ofnuns, and under the same roof, partedonly by a wall, a house of Capuchin Friars. Achina manufactory here, has long since fallen todecay.3T19.14•From Munich a tour maybe made to Saltzburg,which is at the distance of fifty-four miles fromthe capital of Bavaria, The journey is however,a very unpleasant one, lying through a vast plainand many dark woods. For seventeen longGerman miles, there is not a town, but the gloomyone of Wessenberg, which rises on a sand bankso totally encompassed by the river Inn, that it deserves the name ofa Peninsula, ima9 1971.The nearer you approach Saltzburg, the moreappearances begin to mend. The prospects aremore varied, the habitations of the peasants appear neater, and the cultivation of the country260 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY NEAR SALTZBURG,improves; about halfa mile from Saltzburg thereis a prospect really delightful.

Conceive to yourself a vast amphitheatre, theback ground occupied by high rocks, lifting uptheir heads to heaven, some of them in the shapeof pyramids. These vast masses terminate bydegrees in wooded mountains behind, and in beautiful and cultivated hills, on the sides ofthe prospect. Precisely in the midst of this scene, standsthe town, which is commanded by the castle on ahigh rock. The river Salza gives the mixedlandscapes still more life; here and there itspreads itselfout, and its banks, in many placesare shaded with deep hanging woods. The country about this place, forms a striking contrast with the barren, desolate wilds of Munich. It indeedexhibits a matchless, and admirable union of nature and art. The river Salza divides itself into two unequal parts: to the westward, where thegreatest part ofthe town lies, there rises on thewide plain, a high, round, steep, and hard rock,crowned by the castle before mentioned. Theriver winds along by its foot, and at a small distance from it, another mountain rises, about onehundred feet high. Upon this natural wall,which is much higher than the highest house ofthe town, there is a small wood. On the otherside of the river, a kind ofnaked wall is formedby another rock, which stretches along the plainfrom the river, for three miles, and is five hundred feet high. Saltzburg cannot be better described, than by saying, that the town is the centre of a semicircle of hills; the two parts of theriver are semi- diameters, and this wall is a radiusofthe circle.The town itself is very handsome, the housesare high, and built of stone; the roofs are inPAINTINGS, CHURCHES, PALACES, &c. 261the Italian taste, and you may walk out uponthem. The Cathedral of St. Rupert, is a magnificent building of free stone; the roof is ofcopper;it is constructed after the model of St. Peter's atRome, and has four marble statues larger thanthe life, representing St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Rupert, and St. Virgilius. The interior of thischurch is adorned with pilasters of the Corin- thian order. It is built in form of a cross, witha lofty dome, separating the nave from the choir;the high altar, at the bottom ofthe choir is of marble, as are two chapels that form the cross: thepavement is formed of great squares of marble, of various colours: the front of the altar, and thetabernacle are of massy silver, of excellent workmanship. The ornaments on grand festivals, aresurprizingly magnificent.ཙྪི ཝཱ པཱ གོThe archbishop's palace surpasses the magnificence of many royal houses. It contains onehundred and seventy- three rooms, all richly furnished, exclusive of the halls and galleries. Thearchbishop's audience chamber is stately, havinga great marble staircase leading into a spaciousguard chamber; and the ceilings are painted bythe best Italian masters; the furniture is surprizingly rich; and yet there is another apartmentwhich surpasses it, which is only made use of upon days of ceremony, as, when the archbishopdines in state: at the end of this grand apartmentthere are two magnificent galleries, adorned with choice paintings. The chimney pieces, floors,ceilings, door-cases, and all, the ornaments in general, are of fine marble. The walls are paintedin fresco, and exhibit geographical plans of theprincipal dominions in Europe. A third apartment, not less magnificent, is for lodging foreign princes; it consists ofa suit of rooms, in one ofI}262 PALACE OF MARIBELLA.which are pictures of all the Emperors fromCharles the Great, to Charles VI: the rooms thatfollow it are hung with very rich tapestry; particularly one set, representing the war betweenPompey and Casar.The stables adjoining to this fine palace, areworthy ofa prince; they hold one hundred andfifty horses in two rows, with a broad walk in themiddle, and the roof, which is pretty high, is supported by two rows of stone pillars. Next tothese stables are two grand riding houses, one ofwhich is covered, and the ceiling resembles a tournament, all round it there is a gallery; the other,which is uncovered, is the finest in Europe: it isa very large square place, three sides of whichare lined by high rocks, wherein three rows ofseats have been cut for the spectators, when thereis any fete. There are no gardens to this palace,it standing in the very heart ofthe city.1There is another palace, called the Maribella:the grand staircase here is very much admiredfor its convenience, and its rich ornaments; thesaloon is also much praised for the manner_inwhich it is painted. The pilasters are of the Corinthian order,and there are bas relievos that makea good appearance: the chapel is also veryhandsome. This palace has good gardens, finelyadorned with fountains, statues, orange trees, &c.Near the palace of Mirabella is the church ofTrinity College, well adorned; the floor is ofmarble, and the ceiling beautifully painted, withthe representation of the Assumption of the Virgin. The high altar is magnificent. From theConvent of the Capuchins there is a prospect ofa large tract of country.St. Sebastian's Church-yard is a square, encompassed with a gallery, supported by arches one 进1TOMB OF PARACELSUS, &c. 263hundred and nineteen paces long, and ninety-sixbroad; here is the tomb of Theophrastus Paracel- sus, the famous Chemist, who died in 1541. Theuniversity, belonging to this city, is one of themost considerable in the empire. The city doesnot afford much amusem*nt, the inhabitants livingpretty much among themselves. The neighbourhood of Saltzburg is not disagreeable; and thoughthe valley, in which the city stands, is pretty muchenclosed with mountains, yet it affords a greatnumber of pleasing objects. The two pleasurehouses ofCleisheim and Heilbron,are both of thembeautiful and magnificent; Heilbron especiallyis worth seeing, on account ofits fine waters and cascades.The country is the most romantic imaginable:that part which is towards the town has the appearance ofan immense pyramid; but it stretchesbackwards into a rock, which takes six or sevenhours to walk round. It will require five or sixhours for an ordinary traveller to reach the top;but the goat hunters, who climb like cats, ascendit in three. There is a prospect from it all overBavaria, and you may distinguish nine lakes.The most charming part of the prospect is theprincipality of Berchtoldsgaden, which lies to thesouth of the mountain, and consists of a woodywall, encompassed with vast heights ofthe mostpicturesque granite. Amongst these heights theWatzman is distinguished by its perfectly conicalappearance. The lakes among the dark woodshave an unspeakably fine effect. This mountainhas some good mines of red and white marble;In a wide gap of the mountain there is a veryremarkable waterfall; a rapid stream breaks outfrom a elift, which you enter by means ofartificialsteps: here, whilst one shivers with cold, you1264 A BEAUTIFUL WATER- FALL.hear in the inside of the mountain a dull rumbling,like distant thunder: probably this mountain hassome lake in its bosom, into which the snow andrain water being precipitated, occasions this noise.From this clift the water descends with a loudnoise, and falls in a variety of shapes into thebasins, which it seems to have dug itself in thehard marble, and to which no effort of art couldhave given a better polish; indeed they are sonicely constructed, that the lovers of antiquity inthe neighbourhood, have actually been at thepains to prove that they are ancient baths. Atthefoot ofa mountain behind a mill, the fall presentsa picturesque appearance. It is not very high atthis point, but very singular, because the wateris divided into innumerable threads, which crosseach other in such varied and strange ways, amidstthe fragments of the rocks which have fallen fromabove, that no imagination can devise a cascadeso fanciful and capricious. Small pine trees onthe detached rocks, infinitely increase the beauty of the scene. The water is so cold, that youcould not hold your hand in it ten seconds; andyet in the greatest perspiration, people may drinkas much as they please, without the smallestdanger.$1Near the town is the mountain called Monchberg, through which the Archbishop SigismundChristopher began to make a road, which wascompleted in 1767, and is four hundred andtwenty-two feet in length, twenty-four deep, andtwenty-two in breadth."1 * A10

1ད་སྒྲ་71}.ROUTE BETWEEN MUNICH AND VIENNA. 265Tad! bun藏CHAP. VII."22Route from Munich to Vienna,From Munich to AnzingAnzing to Haag...... Haag to Hampsing ...... Hampsing to Altenoeting.Altenoeting to Marckt 'Marcktto Brannau Brannau to Altheim .... Altheim toto Ried.Ried to . Utterhaag Utterhaag to Lambach Lambach to Wels Wels to LintzLintz Enns.... Enns ... toStrenbergStrenberg to AmstettenPosts. Miles . Hours.1.1615 18 1 16 1 15161311/422213181 1123223223-141½ 16 34· 10. 12 21 3151 1315 2/4Amstetten to Kemmelbach 1 10 14! Kemmelbach to Melck. 1/113 ¹2Melck to Poelten ...... 14 16 2Poelten to Persling ....………………………... 10 1Persling to Sigalskirch ,12 14Sigalskirch to Purkendont 9Purkendorf to Vienna ... 1 1 69and.To evosla 976 4FROM Munich it is a post and a half, orsixteen miles too Anzing eighteen milesfarther, or another post and a half to Haag;from Haag to Hampsing a post and a halfor sixteen miles; from thence fifteen miles,or a post and a half to Altenoeting; and thenceA A266 BRANNAU, PASSAU, AND SCHARDING.a post and a half, or sixteen miles to Marckt,these are all places of little interest, and are onlymentioned as the regular posts; from Marckt itis one post, or thirteen miles to Brannau: makingin all, a distance of ninety-four miles from Munichto Brannau, on the Inn, in the way to Vienna;but the roads are by no means bad, and by usingdiligence, it may be performed in little more thansixteen hours. The buildings at Brannau, are mean, but the best inn is the Lamb.From Brannau through Scharding, it is twentyeight miles to PASSAT,a handsome well built town,situated on the south side of the Danube, at itsconflux with the Inn and the Iltz, in Bavaria; itis composed ofthree towns, Passau, Innstadt, andIbzstadt. The fortified Episcopal Castle ofOBERHAUS, stands on Mount St. George, on thenorth ofthe Danube, nearly opposite Passau, towhich it connects by a bridge. Passau has beencelebrated for the religious treaty concluded therein 1552. The cathedral is a fine Gothic building,and deserves to be seen.Inn.-The Black Eagle.Manufactures Porcelaine, black earthen ware,crucibles.From Brannau it is a post, or thirteen miles toAltheim, and from thence to Ried, one post anda half, or eighteen miles to Unterhaag one post,or eleven miles, and from thence to Lambach, onepost and a half, or sixteen miles; Wells is onepost, or ten miles farther; these are places of butlittle note; Lintz is two posts, twenty-one milesfarther, and is described in our account of thenavigation ofthe Danube; from Lintz it is a postand a half, or fifteen miles toENNS. This is a large town on the right oftheDanube, which river is here so wide, that it re-MOELK, ENNS AND ST. POELTEN. 267sembles a sea, and is in some places broken anddivided into small streams by islands.Irs is a pretty town, with large barracks;just by this place the country opens, and is very beautiful.MOELK is on the right ofthe Danube; here is amost magnificent Abbey of Benedictines, whichseems to cover two thirds of the town; the architecture is beautiful, the situation is highly picturesque. The revenues of this abbey have beensupposedto amount to 160,000 florins per annum.This town has been twice occupied by theFrench armies.The country becomes more and more wild, asfar as Stein, where there is a wooden bridge oftwenty- five arches, which leads to Krems, wherethe Jesuits had a college, beautifully situated ona hill, with the appearance ofa royal palace.Proceeding from Enns, the next is a post ofthirteen miles to Strenberg; and from thence toAmstetten is a post and a half, or fifteen miles:Kemmelbach is a post often miles and a half toMoelk; and from thence a post and a half, or sixteen miles, to St. Poelten, which is the best placeto stop at, between Lintz and Vienna. It is apretty town, and a great deal of saffron is cultivated in its vicinity. You will find here a tolerable good inn.From St. Poelten, the first post is Persling, tenmiles; the next is a post oftwelve miles to Segatskirch, and from thence it is a post of nine milesto Purkendorf, from whence it is but a post ofnine miles to Vienna.NUSDORF is a village, within three miles ofVienna, but which has nothing remarkable inît.VIENNA, the capital of Austria, lies in LowerÀA 2268 VIENNA AND ITS SUBURBS.Austria, on a branch of the Danube, here joinedby the little river Wien. It is a magnificent populous city, defended by strong ramparts, twelvelarge bastions, eleven ravelins, very broad anddeep wet ditches, and strong outworks, by which itwas enabled to make a successful resistance againstthe Turks in 1529 and 1683. The streets in the cityare very narrow, but still they are kept very clean,and lighted at night by 18,000 lamps; most ofthehouses are good stone buildings, from four tosevenstories high coof of t3In case of a siege, a measure has been adoptedto prevent the necessity of burning the suburbs.No houses without the walls are allowed to bebuilt nearer to the glacis, than six hundred yards;so that there is a circular field of six hundredpaces broad all round the town, which, exclusiveof the advantage abovementioned, has a verybeautiful, and salutary effect. Beyond the plain,the suburbs are built; they form a very extensiveand magnificent town of an irregular circularform, containing within its bosom a spacious field,which has for its centre, the original city of Vienna. These magnificent suburbs are not near sopopulous as the town itself, in proportion to theirextent; because many houses in the suburbs havelarge gardens belonging to them, and many families, who live during the winter within the fortifications, pass the summer months in the suburbs.

1The suburb Marienhoff, is reckoned the mosthealthy the houses consist of five or six stories;but within the walls, the second story of everyhouse belongs to the court, and is tenanted by its servants... ·+4Vienna is supposed to stand on nearly as muchground as Paris; it takes two hours to go from the suburb of Wieden to the end of the suburb of

LEOPOLDSTADT AND LICHTENSTAL. 269Leopoldstadt, which is larger than the whole city,and parted from it, only by a small arm of theDanube, by which it is subject to inundations.Going from the suburb of Rassau to the end ofthe suburb ofLandstrasse, takes up about half anhour.The suburb ofLichtenstal has its streets plantedwith mulberry trees. There are few places, whereyou fare better than at Vienna; there is an inspector for the vegetables, and another for themeat, and so on for all the provisions on sale, andif they are not found perfectly good, they arethrown away. Notwithstanding this restraint,every thing is moderate in its price; at the tablesofpeople ofa middling rank, such as the lowerservants ofthe court, merchants, artists and thebetter sort of mechanics, you commonly see fiveor six dishes, with three or four kinds of wine.You have tolerable wine for common drinking,at six or seven kreutzers a bottle, and may dinevery well for about a shilling a head; there is atraiteur, who for about nine-pence furnishes a tabled'hote, consisting of vegetables, boiled meat, apudding, or roasted calf's liver, and beef, thebread and a gill of wine are included. But notwithstanding the cheapness of living în general,the great, runto no small expense in their domestic economy. A single plate of fruit often costssixty or seventy florins: it is common to givefromthirty to forty thousand florins for a lady's dress;and though hazard is forbidden, there are several games at which you may lose from fifteen totwenty thousand florins at a sitting.Here are several stables of fifty, sixty, or morehorses; whoever has an estate of fifty or sixtythousand florins, must have from twenty- four to thirty horses; and it is a moderate establishment,443270 THE MUSIC AND LEMONADE BOOTHS.which consist only of a Maitre D'Hotel, a secretary, two Valets de chambre, two running footmen, one or two huntsmen, two coachmen, fiveor six footmen, and a porter.The arts enjoy but little encouragement fromthe riches ofthis place, for almost all the palacesand gardens, ofwhich there are a great number,bespeak nothing but profusion.stupe doenཀུནIt is in music that the nobility shew their greatest taste; several of them have private bands,and all the public concerts attest that this branchof the arts is in the greatest esteem here. Youmay bring together four or five large bands,which are all incomparable. The number ofprivate Virtuosi is but small, but there are no finerorchestras of music in the world: thirty or fortyinstruments may be heard to play together, all ofwhich, give so just, so clear, and so precise asound, that you might think you heard but onestrong instrument; a single stroke appears to givelife to all the violins, and a single blast to all thewind instruments. There are about four hundredmusicians here, who divide themselves into particular societies, and often labour together duringa long course ofyears on a particular day, theyhave a general concert for the benefit ofwidowsof their fraternity.萨One ofthe most pleasing sights to be seen here,is the Lemonade Rooths, in the summer evenings.They put up a large tent in some of the publicparts of the town; round it are several hundredseats, which are occupied by the ladies and gentlemen ofthe place. At some distance, there isa band ofmusic. The calmness of the evening,and the sweet strains of the distant music, thesilence, but at the same time cheerful appearanceof the party, have all an unspeakable good effect.THE EQUIPAGES AND THE PRATER. 271To see the equipages of Vienna, you must goto a fire-work on the Prater, in the summer time:the Prater is a wood of oaks and beeches, on anisland of the Danube, near the city. Towardsthe entrance under the trees, there are tents furnished with chairs and tables, in which you meetwith all kind of refreshments. The place is constantly resorted to by day; but to see it in itssplendor, you must go to the fire-works; whenabout twelve thousand people generally assemble,and take their supper under the trees; on a signal given, they flock to the meadów, surroundedwith high trees, in which the spectacle is exhibited: directly opposite to the fire- work, is a magnificent amphitheatre, filled with several hundredsof ladies, whose painted cheeks, rich jewels, andlight summer dresses, have an admirable effect.The pit, between the amphitheatre and the fireworks, is filled as full as it can hold with men:at the conclusion of the festival, a most extraordinary sight takes place; a line of, from twelveto fifteen hundred coaches, phaetons, and otherfour wheeled equipages, are seen proceeding fromthe wood to the city, so close and orderly, thatwhen they stop, the beam ofthe hinder carriagesoften touch the fore ones; the consequence ofwhich is, that they are never in danger, unlessthey attempt a trot or gallop; most of these aregentlemen's coaches, with four or six horses; thenumber of which, in Vienna, are at least threethousand five hundred; there are about five hundred hackney coaches, and about three hundredothers, which are occasionally hired.The bridge betwixt the suburb of Leopold andthe Prater, on which the pressure is strongest, isdivided into four parts; the two outermost ofthese are for the foot passengers, and the inner-272 SUMMER AMUsem*nTS, &c.mostfor the coaches; that is, those who are goingto, and the other for those who are coming fromthe city. This order is kept up through the wood,and on the causeway in the suburb, till you cometo the city, and some cuirassiers ride to and frowith their sabres drawn, to see that order is observed. In Vienna, there are seldom above six,or seven people driven over in the year.The Augarten, is another of their summeramusem*nts, at which you may meet with all thebest company. This is a large park, inthe sameisland of the Danube as the Prater. This wasenclosed by the Emperor Joseph, who, as theinscription over the entrance states, opened it as a philanthropist, and as a place of relaxation toall mankind: it is, however, visited only by thehigher orders; the people, who see it is not madefor them, voluntarily exclude themselves. Here area great variety oftrees and different shrubs; andthe walks have a regularity and uniformity, upon the whole, which gives it the real resemblance ofan English garden. A broad arm ofthe Danube,which reaches its banks, contributes muchto theliveliness ofthe place: the most pleasing prospectabout it, is that of a large forest in perspective,which has been cut through on the other side of the river, and is bounded by the distant hills ofMoravia, which appear to flit about it like light clouds.Here is a magnificent pavilion, in which is abilliard table, and refreshments of all kinds.Those who wish to see this place in full beauty,must visit it, in the height of summer, in themorning. The custom has prevailed for yearspast, of coming here to drink mineral waters;these, it is true, are fetched from places upwardsofa hundred miles distant, and therefore can do纂PLACES OF PUBLIC RESORT. 273no great good; nor have they any need of thesewaters, for the invalids are mostly very well, andcome there merely to enjoy the ease and freedomwhich obtain at Spa, Pyrmont, and other wateringplaces. Here the noblesse and the literati oftenmix together; the ladies chuse to drink, that theymay shew themselves in negligées , and the mendrink, because the ladies are not so stiff in negligees as when they are full dressed.There are several other places of public resortin this city, particularly the Ramparts, which,though exposed to a very warm sun, is almost always full. The middling people cannot go to church in the afternoon, without taking a turnround the Ramparts, which occupies an hour.Those of higher rank walk to shew their dogs,which, in this place only, are safe from horses andcarriages. Dogs are a great article of luxuryhere, the gentry endeavouring to rival each otherin them. The peasants, who are the better forthis folly, have built a dog- market adjoining thepoultry- market."There is a German Theatre, which is lofty,having five or six rows of boxes, twenty-four in each row. The height makes it seem short, yetat the first glance it is very striking; it might bebetter lighted; but the scenes and decorations aresplendid. The stage has the appearance of beingoval, which, whether it be produced by deception,or reality, has a pleasing effect, as it correspondswith the other end of the Theatre, that beingrounded off at the corners, gives an appearanceof uniformity to the whole.The French Theatre is not so high as the German, but it is still better fitted up; here the bestplaces seem to be in the pit, divided in two parts;the seats are stuffed and covered with red baize.274 THEATRES AND OPERA HOUSE.Three large boxes are taken out of the front ofthe first row for the Imperial family. The scenesare seldom changed during the piece; but thatwhich generally continues the longest, has twolarge folding doors, as in other French theatres,for the entrance and exit of the principal personages. At each side there is an elegant projection, and doors in the centre, used chiefly bythe servants and inferior characters. The Comedyoften borders too much upon farce; but there are scenes, as well as characters of real humour.The Opera is performed alternately at the German and French Theatre; the admission is at avery easy rate, twenty-four kreutzers only arepaid for going into the pit; here are seats withbacks to them. A kreutzer here is hardly equalto an English halfpenny. Part of the front ofthepit is railed off, and is called the amphitheatre;for places within this circle the price is doubled:no seats are to be had for money, except in thepit, and in the slips, which run round the upper part of the house. For these seats about sixteenkreutzers are paid. The boxes are all let by theseason to the principal families.The Palace, formerly in the possession of PrinceEugene, situated in the garden of the Belvidere,in the suburb of Renweg, both on account of itsbuilder, and its admirable situation, is one of themost remarkable places in the town; from thebalcony on the terrace you command a view overthe city, and all the country round. Some yearsago the Imperial pictures were moved hither; thegallery contains twenty-two large rooms; thelower story is tenanted entirely by Italian masters. The best picture is a Cupid, in the act ofdrawing his bow, by Corregio. It was bought for18,000 ducats, by the Emperor Charles VI. but,IMPROVEMENTS IN VIENNA A 275with many others, had been neglected and trodden under foot, so that part of it was entirelyspoiled, though what remains is Corregio still.The upper story is tenanted by the Flemish masters, who, as in duty bound, do not keep company with the Italians. The gallery is open to every body three days in a week.Of the churches, the Archiepiscopal Cathedralof St. Stephen is the most conspicuous. It isbuilt entirely offree-stone; its steeple is reckonedone of the finest in Germany; it contains a bellof uncommon magnitude, cast by order of theEmperor Joseph I. out of the cannon taken fromthe Turks. In this church there are many marblealtars and monuments; those of Prince Eugene,and the Cardinals Kollonitsch and Trautson, aremost worthy of notice. The other remarkablechurches are those of St. Dorothy, St. Peter, andthe three which formerly belonged to the Jesuits.Underneath the Church of the Capuchins is thevault of the Imperial family since the EmperorMathias, who died in 1619.YSince 1752, great improvements have beenmade in Vienna. The Emperor's is the principallibrary; it contains, besides manuscripts, so manyprinted works, that, in this respect, it is supposed to have exceeded even that of the Vatican. TheUniversity Library is also very extensive. In1785, the Emperor Joseph II. founded a Medicaland Surgical Academy, called after his name, towhich ten cabinets are attached, with a most capital collection of surgical instruments, and otherapparatus. The Emperor's Castle contains histreasure, with cabinets of natural and artificialcuriosities, coins and medals, together with thearchives of the House ofAustria. This Academyconsists of several extensive buildings.276 THE MOST REMARKABLE BUILDINGS.The Imperial Chancery is the place where theAulic Council resides. It stands on the northside of the great Castle-yard; it has three gates,and over each a balcony; the middle one is theentrance, the other two are merely thoroughfares.On the ground- floor is the Hall where the Imperial Council meet, the first story being always theresidence of the Vice- Chancellor of the Empire.Among other remarkable buildings are, theRiding School, the Mint, the Bank, the New Custom House, the Town House, and the Arsenal inthe Renweg, in which are the busts of the Emperor Francis, the Empress Maria Theresa, andthe metal bust of Prince Wenceslaus of Lichtenstein; the city arsenal, in which is shewn the headof the Grand Vizier, Kara Mustapha, who commanded the besieging army in 1683, with thewinding sheet in which he was smothered at Belgrade. The palaces and houses ofthe quality aretoo many to enumerate. Here is also a magnificent metal column of the Virgin Mary; the marble column of the Trinity, and another in thegreat market- place, erected in honour of the Emperor Joseph, who first granted permission toProtestants of both confessions to erect churches;he also prohibited processions and burials withinthe city, and suppressed a number of superfluous convents..Opposite to Leopoldstadt, on the other side ofthe Danube, is the Rossau, with the magnificentpalace and gardens of Prince Lichtenstein. TheThe Waring Street contains the palaces of thePrinces of Dietrichstein, and the Counts of Kuffstein. In the populous suburb of St. Ulric, thereare above 130 summer residences and gardens ofthe nobility and gentry, and Prince Trautson'spalace, occupied by the guard of Hungarian no-}PICTURES, CABINETS AND PALACES. 277bles. In the garden of the Counts of Koningsek,in Gumpendorf, is the Imperial School for Engi- neers. In the suburb of Wieden is the uncommonly magnificent Church of St. Charles Borromeus. The Lower Belvidere contains picturesof the military exploits of the Archduke LeopoldWilliam, and the battles of Prince Eugene. Inthe House Theatre adjoining, the paintings thatwere in the castles of Prague, Presburg, Inspruck,&c. are deposited. The Landstrasse also containsmany fine buildings and gardens. Vienna is, infact, the liveliest and most magnificent city inGermany, being inhabited by Germans, Hungarians, Italians, Spaniards, Dutch, Swiss, Greeks,Armenians, Turks, and Jews. The United Greekshave part of the Churches of St. Stephen and St.Peter for their worship; the other Greeks attendthe chapel of the Russian ambassador. In 1764,free admission into the Prater, or Imperial Menagerie, was granted to the public. In 1772, apost similar to the two- penny-post in London,was established in the city and suburbs of Vienna.The new palaces in Vienna, are those of the Princes of Lichtenstein and Schwartzenberg, theHotel of Stahremberg, called Freyhaus, will contain 2000 persons; the house called Bienenfeld,in the Wieden, contains a large collection of paintings, and other curiosities of art. The exhibitions of art and science in Vienna are extremely numerous, consisting of galleries of plaster, wax, medals, alabaster, &c. and the Berchling family has preserved as a very curious piece ofGerman antiquity, the iron hand of the celebrated ChevalierGoetz, of Berlichingen. bananapin to polim..The Imperial Cabinet of Medals hath scarce tit*equal in the world; there are twenty-two thou❤ B B278 EMPEROR'S LIBRARY, MADAME DE STAEL.sand ancient coins; the modern ones are also veryvaluable; and to those who wish to study the history of the middle ages, a very precious part of this collection is that ofthe coins and medalsfromCharlemagne to the present time. The thought was Charles the Sixth's, but the collection owesits existence to the Emperor Francis, who laid outgreat sums upon it. There are also several otherrich collections of natural history, mathematicalinstruments, &c. and these, like every thing thecourt possesses, are open to public inspectionwithout the least trouble..The Emperor's library consists of more thanthree hundred thousand volumes, twelve thousandof which are valuable manuscripts.It is open every morning till twelve o'clock, forall persons that choose to come. They are furnished with tables, chairs, pens, ink, and paper; asecretary looks in the catalogue for the bookswanted, which are immediately taken down fromthe shelves by some livery servants belonging to the court. There are fires in the room all thewinter. None ofthe servants are allowed to takeany thing.Madam de Stael, who was at Vienna in 1808,confirms the account we have given ofthe ease andaffluence ofthe people of this city. " It is," sheobserves, " above all on the Prater, that one isstruck with the ease and prosperity of the peopleof Vienna. This city has the reputation of consuming more victuals than any other place of anequal population; and this species of superioritya little vulgar, is not contested. One sees wholefamilies of citizens and artificers setting off at fivein the evening for the Prater, there to take a sortofrural refreshment, equally substantial with aPROMENADES ABOUT VIENNA. 279dinner elsewhere, and the money they can affordto lay out upon it, proves how laborious they are,and under how milda government they live.vnskYou never meet a beggar at these promenades;none are to be seen in Vienna; the charitable establishments there are regulated with great orderand ability, and public and private benevolence isdirected with a great spirit ofjustice, every thing,in short, in this country bears the markof a parental, wise, and religious government." sigo ouBesides the two principal promenades of thePrater and the Augarten, the neighbourhood ofVienna has beautiful walks and prospects. butronsAbout a mile and an halffrom the city, in a fennyhollow you meet with Schoenbrun, once the summer residence ofthe Empress Maria Theresa, butwhere the confined prospect and bad air will notinduce a long stay. The palace is immense, builtin a truly great style, and the furniture is reallyimperial; there is one roomfurnished with tapestryfromthe Gobelins,that cost 300,000 guilders. Heretoo is the menagerie, of wild beasts, so delightfully sung by Metastasio. On an eminence behindthe Palace the Emperor built a Sala terrena in theancient style, withtwo rows ofpillars on each side.This points out the spot where his mother shouldhave built, if she had chosen to have had a fineprospect and good air. This is a place of publicamusem*nt, as the garden is alway open. daThe Kalteberg, which lies onthe Danube, aboutthree miles from the city, pleases, however, infinitely more than Schroenbrun; the way to it isthrough a very well cultivated country. At somedistance to the left, on the slope of the hill, andunder some very large old oaks, you see FieldMarshal Lacy's elegant Villa, with his English BB 2280 PROSPECTS ON THE DANUBE.痱garden. By degrees you gain a thick forest on thebrow of the hill; on the summit of which is aconvent, in the finest point of view you can imagine, Under some trees in its front are a tableand some benches, where the ladies who cannotvisit the inside of the monastery, without specialpermission from the archbishop, are entertainedtill their friends return . Every Monk has his ownseparate hut, with a little garden belonging to it.The outermost cell has a terrace belonging to it,that looks over a perpendicular precipice into theDanube. You have then the whole city like aground plot under your feet; you think you hearthe constant hum in it, and your eye carries youover this part of Austria as far as to the borders ofHungary and Moravia. The majestic Danubewinds through an immense plain; at some distance it considerably widens, and, being coveredwith no woods or elevations, casts a silver appearance on the landscape. To your right the woodcrowned hill you are upon, gradually decreases tothe suburbs; whilst to the left it, stretches its highneck along the Danube, as far as the golden hillof Ensersdorf, three miles distant, which producessome of the best Austrian wine. The many finevillages, the blue bill, and all the various prospects of wood and water, diffuse a delight whichyou may taste, but which it is impossible to describe.The other promenades are the Brigitten Au,particularly on St. Bridget's day, and the Belvidere,or the garden of Prince Schwartzenberg; the viewfrom the terrace here is delightful. There is alsothe Graben, the rendezvous of the polite world between eleven in the forenoon and two in theafternoon. The place before the church of theNUMEROUS TAVERNS, INNS, &c. 281garrison is another public walk, as is likewise theKohl market, or the Vegetable market, and theHoff.At Vienna there are nearly 500 taverns, wherenothing but beer is sold; the best of this is calledMalender and Horner. People here should takecare to clothe themselves warm, the weather being so changeable as sometimes to produce threeseasons out ofthe four in one day.When a traveller wishes to leave Vienna, he must apply to theChancery for a billet de poste, and also get his package sealed at the Custom House. But beforepeople quit their apartments in this city, it isalways necessary to give a fortnight's notice, underpain of paying the rent of a month. The goodbeer of Vienna is particularly recommended, because, unless wine of Austrian growth is drank,that of Hungary possesses too much fire for theconstitution of a stranger.Inns.-The White Bull, the Griffin, the ThreeCrows, the Court ofMatschack, the Crown ofHungary, where the price of a chamber is at least aflorin per night. There are a great numbers oftraiteurs and restaurateurs at Vienna, who furnish dinners and suppers at all prices, from fivekreutzers to a florin. There are also ordinaries,or tables d'hotes, from thirty- four kreutzers to acrown, not including the guingettes and cellars, inwhich the common people are accommodated.The houses of the traiteurs, as well as the taverns,are distinguished by branches of fir. Houseswhere beer is sold are known by tall branches oftrees cut in the shape of a steeple. The traiteurs,whose houses are frequented by persons of thefirst rank, are the Sieurs John and Villars. People may be accommodated at their houses withBB 3282 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, FISH HOOKS.separate tables for a florin, or a florin and an half.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.-Silks,stuffs, gold and silver lace, tapestry, mirrors, china,velvets, needles, fish-hooks ofsteel, six of whichdo not weigh an ounce, millions of which are exported every year to Italy; musical instruments,particularly piano fortes made by Steen, Jokesh,Brodman, Malter, and others; Pencils, of which400,000 dozens are annually sold, jewellery, &c.iINNS ON THE ROAD TO PRAGUE.CHAP. VIII.Route from Vienna to Dresden.283Posts. Miles. Hours.From Vienna to Enzendorf--Enzendorf to Stokerau .8 14 1 10 14 - Stokerau to Malbern.. Malbern to Holabrunn .Holabrunn to Jezeldorf.. Jezeldorf to Znaim1 .8 T 10 1 10 1 . 10 Znaim to Frynersdorf.. 101122214Frynersdorf to Budwitz.. 0Budwitz to Schlettau...... 12 Schlettau to Stannern................ 12 24 Stannern to Iglau 10 12 Iglau to Teutschbrod........ 플 15 24 Teutschbrod to Steinsdorf. 14 Steinsdorf to Jenichau .. 14 Jennichau to Czastlau.. 10 Czastlau to Kolin 1 12 Kolin to Planian 9Planian to Bæmischbrod .. 9Bæmischbrod to Biegowitz 1 10 Biegowitz to Prague... 1 11 2Prague to Turkslau 1 10 2Turkslau to Welbern... Welbern to Budin.......Budin to Lowositz .... Lowositz to Aussig...... Aussig to Peterswald2144 1.3.12 31 16 .** . ..!... 1 10 Peterswald to Zeist....... *** Sex: 1 10 3Zeist to Dresden..... 2 14 3THE road from Vienna to Prague not being wellsupplied with inns, youmust prepare to meet withbut indifferent fare; and it would perhaps bemost prudent to carry some cold provisions withyou. The distance is about two hundred and284 ZNAIM, IGLAU, AND KOLIN.three miles. The first place where people usuallyhalt is Jezelzdorf, which is about forty- six milesfrom Vienna, where the post- house is supplied withtolerable beds; but the other accommodations areso indifferent, that it will be better, if possible, toproceed to Znaim which is a post often miles further; this is a town in Moravia, situated on thebanks of the Teya. From Znaim it is fifty- fourmiles to Iglin, which is a pretty town, and wellpeopled. As long as you continue in Austria thecountry appears well cultivated, nor do you meetwith any of the wild deserts which are so commonin Hungary. The plains are relieved by gentlyrising hills, and on the confines of Bohemia, thehills rise into more stately mountains. The partsof these mountains through which the road liesare frequently crested by ancient castles; but onthe plains of Bohemia the villages are so scarce,that the Germans have a proverb, which says ofathing that is rare, " it is as scarce as a village in Bohemia." Most of these however, lay out of thegreat road in the neighbourhood of rivers andbrooks, or behind woods; this custom of hidingthe habitations in the rocks of the country, probably took its rise at a time when the inhabitantsendeavoured to shelter themselves from robbers.From Iglau to Kolin, is fifty four miles. Thisis a pretty little town, and by far the best betweenVienna and Prague; from the latter of which itis but thirty-nine miles. Here is an inn, whereyou may be accommodated with supper and agood bed. The houses are but few in number,not exceeding seven hundred, and are far frombeing well inhabited, though well built; everyhouse stands distinct and separate, but withouteither orchard or garden. Prague is seen for se•PRAGUE, ITS SITUATION, &c. , - 285veral miles before you arrive at it; the exterior isdark and gloomy.ན་ ་ ་PRAGUE, the capital of Bohenria, is situated on both sides of the river Moldau, and entirely surrounded with hills and vineyards. It is one of thelargest cities in Europe, being fifteen miles in circumference. The houses are in general of stone and three stories high; amongst them are manyfine palaces of the principal Bohemian nobility,which have been handsomely repaired since itsbombardment by the Prussians in 1757. Pragueis composed of four towns; the Old Town, theNew Town, the Little Town, and the Kradshin.There are generally between seven and eight thousand Jews here, who have two synagogues.The parish church in the Old Town is the place where Tycho Brahe was buried in 1608. Thechurch of the Cross, with its fine columns, cupolas,and paintings, is well worth seeing; but one of thegreatest ornaments of Prague is the university,founded by Charles IV. upon a plan similar tothat of Paris. The Collegium Clementinum, whichformerly belonged to the Jesuits, is of very greatextent, comprephending five churches, a printingoffice, a medical apartment, with an excellent library, a large mathematical room with curious in.struments, an astronomical observatory, and anelegant theatre. The New Town contains achurch built of red Bohemian marble; the Wisserad, a high fortified place, with the arsenal closeby the church of St. Peter and St. Paul, and acollege formerly belonging to the Jesuits. TheLittle Town is the most ancient part of Prague:it has broad streets, is very populous, and contains the church of St. Saviour. Kradschin formerlybelonged to the Little Town, but in 1757 it wasmade the fourth town of Prague. Its principal286 PUBLIC BUILDINGS, PALACES, &c.buildings are, the royal palace; the royal and Imperial convent for nuns; the hall for the collegesofgovernment, the residence ofthe governor; thelarge lofty Spanish Hall, without pillars; the cabinet ofnatural and artificial curiosities; the treasury, the royal riding house, the royal pheasantwalk and gardens, the mathematical school, andthe white and black tower. It likewise comprehends the cathedral of St. Veit, with the burialplace of the kings, many relics, the silver monument of John Nepomuk, and four angels of castsilver upon two altars. Here are, besides, thearchiepiscopal palace, and the habitations of thecanons. Kradschin, properly so called, is the suburb ofthe palace, the outermost part of which iscalled the new world: the chapel ofOur Lady ofLoretto, and the churchbehindit, built by a PrinceLobkowitz, contains many admirable things. Opposite to these is the large palace of Tchernin.The bridge over the Moldau, 700 feet long, ornamented with stone statues of saints, as large as life,both at noon and evening is frequented by a number of persons who come there to perform theirdevotions, and here a metal statue of John Nepomuk, erected in 1683, is never without devotees.In the war ofthe Austrian succession, in 1741, inwhichthe gallant defence of the French deservesto be particularly mentioned, Prague suffered considerably, as it did in the thirty years war, and that with Prussia in 1756. The White Mountain, nearthe gate of Strakov, is celebrated in history for thevictory gained by the Austrians over Frederic V.whom the Bohemians had chosen for their king.The field of battle, where the king of Prussia defeated the Austrians in May 6, 1757, is also close to the town.The ancient prisons are singular in their con-GREAT AND LITTLE VENICE. 287struction; and here a monument marks the placefrom whence the Count de Thurn caused the municipal officers to be thrown down. The chapterhouse of Emmaus is upon a steep rock; and hereare still to be seen the ruins of Wischerad, the original residence of the ancient sovereigns of Bo- hemia.In the midst of the broad but dry Moldau, thereare two small islands, called Great and Little Venice, to which the inhabitants make parties ofpleasure.yourFor the advantages of the table, this place is incomparable; the poultry is peculiarlygood; thereis a plenty ofgame that is astonishing; no inn sowretched, but you may have a pheasant forsupper, and afterwards partridge soup. The fish iscarried about the streets in a manner that temptsone; a large round tub set on low wheels, and fulloflive carp, tench, and eels, is pushed about by aman who sells them. The Bohemians are extremely fond of music, in which science they verymuch excel.Inns.-Bains de Prague, &c.From Prague to Dresden is ten posts, or ninetysix- miles, through miserable roads; that fromLowositz to Aussig may claim the superiority inpoint of badness. There, is, however, at Aussiga good inn to make amends for the fatigues youmayhaveendured. Here too travellers mayembarkon the Elbe, which rolls through the most variedand elegant landscape imaginable; the agricultureis diversified like the country, and the peopleseem to live in comfort and affluence. Hares willscarcely move from near the carriage-wheels, solittle are they apprehensive of offence; and thepartridges run close before you without being in the least alarmed288 TOPLITZ AND ITS BATHS.Though_TOPLITZ is not immediately in theroad from Prague, the digression is so trifling thatmany may be induced to visit the warm springs ofthat place: about forty miles from Prague isKowosit, at which place you must quit the directroad, and Toplitz is about eighteen miles distant.募Toplits has long been celebrated for its warmbaths, partly in and partly out of the town. Thewaters here are famous for the relief they afford inthe rheumatism and the palsy, and sometimes incases ofapoplexy. These baths are seventy- sevenîn number, and are generally occupied from morning till night. Many persons here use bathingtubs in their own apartments. At the housewhere the baths are, the price of bathing is fromseven to ten kreutzers, and for the use of the pumpseventeen. The chateau here has a fine pleasuregarden. The best inns or lodgings here, are at theTopfer Schenke, the Golden Wheel; the Salutation; the Golden Dove. The table d'hote at the Topfer Schenke is very much frequented. Besides these, there are the Blue Star, the GoldenHind, the Black Tree, the Black Eagle, &c. Manypeople here choose to dine and sup at home. Toplitz is only thirteen German miles from Carlsbad,and eleven from Prague. The way from Leipsicto Toplitz, through Chemnitz and Saats, is verygood, as is likewise that from Carlsbad to Toplitz.To go from Dresden to Toplitz you must eitherpass through Peterswald, and over the Geyersberg;or, leaving the Geyersberg, go by the way of Un- ter Arbessau, a new route with the detour ofabouta mile. Persons who admire striking scenerywould certainly prefer the Geyersberg, becausethough it is avoided by going a little way about,even this is not free from ascents and descents. Returning from Toplitz towards Dresden, Leipsic, &c.1THE VICINITY OF TOPLITZ, &c.,289we ascend the Geyersberg almost imperceptibly, if the carriage is assisted by a yoke of Oxen,the fixed charge for which is not more than 30kreutzers the pair. About a quarter of an hour'sride beyond Peterswalde we come to the first Austrian Custom-House. There is a good inn at thePost-House at Peterswalde.The vicinity of Toplitz abounds in pleasantwalks and picturesque scenery; among these is thepheasant park at Dorne, on the road to Peterswalde, the Kuhlbusch, the little wood of Lixney,the romantic and enchanting views from the summit of Vacholderberg; or from the summit oftheruins of Dobrowska-hora an ancient castle belonging to the Knights Templars. At Dux, and near itthere is a pleasure-garden, a library, a collectionof natural history, and the ancient armour and trophies of the Duke of Vallenstein, who signalizedhimself in the thirty years war. A little to theleft of Dux is Ossegg, a rich monastery well worthvisiting; and not far from thence is the place whereCount Saxe was killed in a duel. Bilin is famousfor its bitter, but salutary waters; the isolated rockhere is reckoned a very great curiosity, from whichthere is a view as far as Prague on one side, andto Fichtelgeberge on the other. The finest clothin Bohemia is manufactured at Oberleutersdorf,nor is Toplitz devoid of business.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.- Excellent stockings, gloves, particularly those made byRonol, Fire-arms, woollen- cloths. At the manafactories of Earthen-ware, painted goblets are soldrepresenting landscapes, &c. in the environs ofToplitz.From Toplitz it will perhaps be wished to proceed to Carlsbad, another watering- place, between C.C290 FAMOUS SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD.sixty and seventy miles distant; there is, however, a road to it from this place.CARLSBAD, the seat of the famous springs, isa small open town in the division of Elnbogen,in Bohemia, situated in a narrow valley betweenhigh mountains on the Topel, where a famousmedicinal spring being found in 1319, during thereign of Charles IV. it was named after him.Here the water spouts out of the ground quitehot, with a great noise, and this spot is verymuch frequented both for drinking and bathing.There are two springs, one called Prudel, andthe other the New Spring. This place, consisting originally of about four hundred poor houses,has of late years amazingly improved, and thebuildings on the ground now called the Wiesewould embellish any place. This meadow is nowcovered on one side by a long range of houses,with an esplanade before them, ornamented withmulberry-trees. The lower part of the housesexhibit a range of handsome shops, and betweenthe Wiese and the river Topel a handsome quayhas lately been formed. An elegant theatre isalso among the more recent erections. M. Klaproth looks upon the basin of the Sprudel as themost curious reservoir existing, and the mostunique ofits kind. The mean heat ofthis springis 165° of Fahrenheit. For the Esplanade andthe Grand Saloon here the public were indebtedto the generosity of a Russian Minister.The water of the New Spring is not so hot asthe Sprudel. Here is a house built by order ofthe Empress Maria Theresa, the lower part ofwhich contains very convenient baths. TheSchlossbrunnen, or Castle Spring, the last discovered, has been very much frequented of lateyears. It contains more fixed air than the rest,SIGNS AT CARLSBAD, WALKS, &c.291and its temperature is from 120 to 125 degrees of Fahrenheit. A new terrace has been made forthe purpose of communicating with the NewSpring. The excellent qualities of what is calledthe Kalte Sauerling, or cold acid, coming out ofarock of granite behind a brewhouse here, seemsundervalued. Several quintals of salt are annually obtained by evaporation and crystallization,but the alkali that might be preserved is dailywasted in the river Topel.Every house at Carlsbad has a name by which itis distinguished, and a sign by which it is known.Such is the great house of Dr. Michl, near thebridge; the Siren, or Mermaid; the BeautifulQueen, the Pheasant, the Three Steps, the GoldenLamb, the Stone House, the Three Roses, and, inthe Market-place, the Lion, the Eagle, the Post- House, the Mercury, &c. It was at the RedEagle, upon the Wiese, where Peter the Greatresided, when he frequented these springs.The price of lodgings, in general very handsomely furnished, is very different, and dependsin a great measure upon the number of persons atthe baths, or upon the season. In August, for instance, they are much more moderate than in Juneor July. From ten to twenty florins per week ischarged for a suite of rooms. The bathing season here does not last above one month for themost fashionable visitors. Carlsbad is not necessarily a dear place; you may dine for eight orten groschen at the house of a traiteur, and youhave four courses (Weishaupt is one of the besttraiteurs). There are also tables d'hote, or ordinaries, at Carlsbad; but the visitors generally associate in small parties, and dine together at home. Abroad you may breakfast upongood coffee, or chocolate, for about eighteenC C 2202 PLEASANT EXCURSIONS, LORD FINDLATER.kreutzers. The charge for delivering messages,or carrying small parcels, here is very moderate.The public promenades about Carlsbad are verypleasant; that in the alleys before the House ofBohemia; the way to Gotek, and the new walkfrom the Temple of Dorothée, along the rocks, tothe seat ofthe Bohemians. The way to Freundschaftistz is extremely romantic. Bythe munificence of an English lord, Findlater, a convenientcauseway has been raised, which leads to Hammer; the promenade here, and the Temple ofGratitude, are equally the gift of Lord Findlater,and this promenade is the best shaded, the mostdiversified and romantic of any about Carlsbad.What is called the Poet's Bench, an eminencethat overlooks this neighbourhood, and the superb view of the valley of Egra, with the Saxonmountains, augment the beauties of this prome- nade. The town of Carlsbad has since erectedan obelisk of granite to the memory of LordFindlater, which stands in a conspicuous situation. Other excursions are frequently made tothe Hammerberg, the Dreykreusberg, and theHirschsprung, or Hart's Leap; these are by nomeans fatiguing, and you are amply repaid by thebeauty ofthe prospects. The way to the Hirschsprung, formerly so difficult, has been metamorphosed by the reigning Count Stolberg into arampe commode, resembling the entrance to anEnglish garden; from here you may see Carlsbadas it were under your feet; and the way up tothis eminence is relieved by a number of seats constructed of moss and stone. Fischern is another pleasant walk, by a very agreeable pathacross the meadows, and along the side of theEgra. It requires about half a day to go and return, to the chateau of Eich, and to the rocks ofEGRA AND FRANZBRUNNEN. 293Heiling. Togo to Ellbogen it would be necessaryto set out after breakfast, about ten in the forenoon, in order to return about seven or eight inthe evening. At Elgenhausen, on the way toPrague, there is the remains of an ancient castledestroyed by the Hussites.The park of Schoenhoven, though a day and ahalf's journey from Carlsbad, is generally deemedan object of curiosity for itswater- fall, its Chinesehouse, the fishermen's hut, the hermitage, theGothic chapel, and the monument in honour ofthe Archduke Charles. There is a very good innat Schoenhoven, and horses may be hired to gotherefrom Carlsbad. Onthe evenings offeast-daysthe prospect about Carlsbad is very singular; thechapels and crosses upon all the hills about theplace are illuminated, and some of these em- bosomed in trees, at such times, of course, produce a very striking effect. Even in 1804 all the roads to Carlsbad were rocky and uneven, andthe traveller sought in vain for those superbcauseways that particularly distinguish the Aus- trian dominions. The route, which cannot be toowell recommended to persons who come by theway of Leipsic to visit Carlsbad, is that whichtraverses the Erzgebirge, and passes throughBorna, Chemnitz, Marienberg, Sebastiansberg,Saatz and Podersham. This way is not only picturesque, but practicable even for English- madecarriages; and has, besides, some very good inns.About twenty miles farther are likewise themineral waters of Egra, more commonly calledFRANZBRUNNEN, discovered about two centuriesand a halfsince. Here are several elegant buildings, and such accommodations as never fail todraw the attention ofgreat numbers of strangers.These waters, though cold, have an agreeable294 BALLS ON SUNDAYS, NENNDORF.taste, and contain more fixed air than those ofCarlsbad. The surrounding soil is marshy andrich in turf. People generally drink from ten totwelve glasses every morning, beginning with fouror five, and allowing of an interval often minutesbetween each. June, July, and August, composethe season for taking the waters of Egra, orFranzbrunnen. Here house- rent, servants, & c.are at a reasonable charge; and the beer of theplace is an object of preference among strangers.Onleaving Franzbrunnen, it is customary to makethe person who attends the baths a present of fromforty to sixty kreutzers. Here are balls on theSundays at the Great Room, where the price ofadmittance is a florin; and, besides the pic nics,assemblies and public breakfasts, horses or carriages may be hired. There are several pleasant rides from here to the pottery at Hoflas, toSeeburg, and to Egra, all within five Englishmiles. The Abbey of Waldassen is about eighteen English miles distant. To go to Carlsbadalso, post-horses may be had at Egra.NENNDORF. The existence of the springs atthis place was discovered by a contemporary ofLuther, upwards of two centuries since; but theiractual virtues were not fully appreciated till theyear 1786. Here are two springs, so copious asto fill the reservoir and 191 baths every day.These waters abound with bitumen and sulphuralkalized, whose salutary effects are nearly equalto those ofAIX- LA-CHAPELLE. The baths areall formed of marble or porcelain; here are alsovapour baths, pumps. &c. At the chemical laboratory at this place, the Count of Buckeburg lostbis life. The buildings here, which form a handsome circle, arose from the munificence of theElector, WilliamIX.andd isplay considerable taste.MINDEN, HANOVER, DRESDEN. 295The springs are in the centre, and the wings contain a number of apartments, assembly-rooms,tables d'hote, stabling, &c. People frequentlymake excursions from here to Galenberg, wherethere is a fine view of the lake of Steinhuder, withthe little fortress of Wilhalmstein, extremelybeautiful at sun-set. The cascade of Langenfeldis worth notice; and the rocks of Hohenstein andEilsen, containing sulphureous waters, begin tobe almost as much frequented as those of Nenndorf. Here, at La Salle des Arcades, is a tabled'hote; the price of a dinner here, or sent home,is twelve groschen, supper, six; and the place is not without its traiteurs, confectioners, &c. ThePost-house at Rodenberg takes charge of all letters going and coming from hence.The distance from Nenndorf to Cassel is fifteenGerman miles, from Bremen ten, from Mindenthree and a half, from Buckeburg two and a half,from Hameln three, and from Hanover two and ahalf.Returning to our direct road we proceed toDRESDEN, which has a proud appearance, andoffers on all sides a magnificent object; the steeples and spires of blue or green porcelain, and tilesglittering in the sun, have a strong effect. Thehouses are built in a much better taste than thoseofVienna; and the eye is quite dazzled with thelong and magnificent bridge over the Elbe, it isfive hundred and forty feet long, and thirty-sixwide, with a light iron railing, which has a moremagnificent, effect than a stone ballustrade. Theriver, which at some distance from the city is confined within very narrow bounds, widens by degrees as it approaches thetown, and is here a broadstream. The hill opposite the Lawsniss has agrand appearance, and the mountains on both296 BEAUTY OF DRESDEN, CURIOSITIES.sides the river, partly naked and partly coveredwith vineyards, form a beautiful perspective.The manners and way ofliving of these peopleare as opposite to those seen in the former part ofGermany, as the beauty of these streets; and thetaste displayed in the buildings, are different fromthose ofSuabia, Bavaria, Austria, and Bohemia.Finer shapes, more animated countenances, general courtesy, and universal cleanliness, are thefeatures which immediately offer themselves toobservation, and must strike every one who comesinto this country from Vienna, or the south ofGermany.One of the greatest curiosities at Dresden is thecelebrated green vault in the Electoral palace. Inthe first apartment is a great number of small brassmodels, of the most famous statues and monumentsextant, both ancient and modern; among whichis the celebrated Toro Farnese.The second room contains clocks and divers automata of a curious structure, both in gold andsilver; among which is a ship sailing round thetable; while some ofthe sailors weigh the anchor,others are employed in other works; and at thesame time it performs a piece of music. Anotherpiece displays the Eastern Magi making theirofferings to the infant Jesus. Here is also a triumphal car drawn by two lions.In the third rooom are shewn a numerous collection of drinking vessels of ivory; a ship completely rigged; and the succession of the Electorsof Saxony from the Christian æra, in raised letterselegantly formed.In the fourth apartment, among other utensilsof gold and silver, is a large drinking vessel ingold enriched with medals, which holds fivequarts.5CURIOSITIES AT DRESDEN.: 297The fifth apartment is occupied with a varietyof precious stones and curious articles formed ofthem. The articles constructed ofgems and pearlsare surprising, and their value immense.The sixth apartment has a female figure in thecentre, which turns her head about every minute.In the seventh apartment, on a table an ellin breadth, and an ell and a quarter in length, is arepresentation of the manner in which the greatMogul's birth- day is celebrated . The monarchsits on his throne, and prostrate before him are allthe grandees of his empire, while the portico iscrowded with his guards, elephants, and everyother particular composing the splendor of aneastern court. In the centre of the room is a pillar, adorned with beautiful bas-reliefs in Arabianagate, and an oriental onyx of an oval figure,whose transverse diameter is nearly a quarter ofan ell. The yellow brilliant ring here is unique,and valued at an immense sum. The green oneis larger, and is set transparent. There is also alarge white diamond from the great Mogul's empire a basin of oriental agate, as large as half aCocoa-nut, cut longitudinally. You find here anentire set of diamond buttons for a suit of clothes,together with a badge ofthe order of knighthood,with the star, buckles, and head of a cane. Anaqua marina, as large as a man's fist, with otherprecious stones, to an incredible amount.In the last apartment is a clock ofgold set withgems; and a jasper table, with crystal and amethist veins.The Picture Gallery, the collection of antiquities, the prints, the collection of natural history,are, however, probably more worthy notice thanthe Green Vault.The famous Picture Gallery has 1200 paintings298 PICTURES, ENGRAVINGS, LIBRARY, &c.by 334 masters of the four principal schools.Here is Correggio's celebrated night; and Love,painted in Crayons, by Mengs.Here is also the Nativity by Correggio, whichpasses for the best work of that master, with a St.George by the same, by some persons preferred before it.This gallery contains the best work of Carracchi,viz. a St. Roch giving alms, and several otherpieces by the same hand. Rembrandt's portraitofhis own daughter is esteemed beyond all price.The eagle in the Jupiter, and Gannimede, is won.derful.The various cabinets of engravings, naturalhistory, &c. contain a block ofsilver upon whichAlbert is said to have dined; with the agates ofRochlitz, the head of Medusa, a small elephant,and a rare collection of shells and insects.The gallery ofantiques at the Japanese palace,contains three of the first statues dug out of theruins of Herculaneum in 1706. Several modelsin plaster by Mengs. In the arsenal the first specimen of fire-arms, made by Berthold Schwartz,are still to be seen.The library at this palace contains more than250,000 volumes, and between four and five thousand manuscripts, exclusive of the late king's pri- vate library.A medico-chirurgical Academy, upon a very extensive scale, is now establishing here, for the instruction of accoucheurs and army surgeons, thewant of whom was so deeply felt in the late war.Professor Seiler, of Wittemberg, is at the headof this institution . The houses of the governorgeneral and the general of the artillery, in thecourt of the arsenal, have been appropriated tothe use of this society. Here is a lecture-room, anACADEMY OF FINE ARTS. 299anatomical theatre, a library, cabinets ofpreparations and subjects in natural history, a chemicallaboratory and a lying-in hospital, in a series ofwell arranged apartments. The whole academyconsists of eight professors and a dissector, witheight head surgeons, and sixteen assistants. Probably this establishment will operate as a preludeto the removal of the whole university ofWittenberg to Dresden. This transfer, with the incomparable public library and other celebrated collections ofart and science, the botanic gardens, andthe military colleges, would tend to render Dresden one of the most flourishing seminaries in the north ofEurope.The Dresden academy offine arts has also beennewly modelled, and rendered more complete.Three new rooms for models have been added tothe buildings, situated in Bruhls Garden, besidesa hall for the lectures ofthe professors. The former rooms are for plaster ofParis exhibitions, andother purposes. M. Bottiger, who superintendsthe two principal museums, the Gallery of Antiques, and Meng's Museum, during the summer of1814, held lectures on archeology in the anti- roomof the gallery of antiques to the pupils and members of the academy ofarts, about fifty in number.Dresden is remarkable for having a number ofconductors upon the public buildings, to obviatethe effects oflightning. Theorgan at the catholicchurch is one of the chef d'oeuvres of Silbermann.The Ascension, a superb painting by Mengs, embellishes the grand altar. The Maison de Ville isin the Neustadt, and in the cemetery here, is a representation in sculpture, ofthe Dance of Death.Trade, Manufactures, and Commerce, Woollens, cloths, fine straw, wax candles, gloves, goldand silver lace, musical instruments, particularly300 DELIGHTFUL ENVIRONS OF DRESDEN.german flutes, thread-lace, embroidered muslins,ribbons, knit thread stockings, waxed cloth, sealing-wax, stained paper, gold, Jewellery &c. &c.The manufactory of porcelain here is wellworthy notice. There is a collection of the finestpieces from the first attempts made here in thiselegant art, down to the latest improvements; amatter of real curiosity, as it marks the progressofingenuity and invention.Inns.-The Hotel de Pologne is not surpassedin excellence by any inn on the Continent; Theguests here are not only served in an elegant, butin a princely style.The environs of Dresden are delightful; thebaths of Link and Tharand, and the valley ofPlaueen, always repay the visitants. A beautifulprospect is to be seen from the romantic spot ofruins, known by the name Heilege Hallen, or theHoly Halls. There are other curiosities also inthe valleys of Schonen Liebthal and Seifersdorf;the latter, completely metamorphosed into an English garden, ought to be visited, with M. Becker'sdescription in one's hand. Radeberg, four leaguesfrom the latter place, is only an English mile and a half from Seifersdorf.Pilnitz is less than six miles from Dresden, either by land or water; going by water we mayperceive, near a village, and under a tree, themonument of Madame Neuber, one of the founders ofthe German theatre. Pilnitz is very agreably situated upon the borders of the Elbe. Anascent to the summit of the hill, called the Borsberg, will occupy near two hours, under a continual bower refreshed by a rivulet. The viewfrom this hill has no bounds, but those of the organs of sight. On board the sloops, which usedto belong to the Elector, charts of the Elbe wereTHE FORTRESS OF KEENIGSTEIN. 301open to every one's inspection, embellished withthe representation of fishes, birds, and other natural curiosities, the production of the environs.Moritzbourg is famous for carp.The fortress of Koenigstein, three miles fromDresden, is built upon a rock 950 ells above thebed of the Elbe. The environs of this fort, andof Pirna, are well worthy of an excursion. Noshot can possibly reach Konigstein. The casemates are admirable. The well of the fortress,1800 feet deep, is always supplied with good water; and like the casemates, is bomb-proof. Thecoup d'œil from the place called Konigs Nase isunique, and affords several interesting points ofview, particularly the Lilienstein, and the charming valley called the Hutten. In the way to Freyberg, two posts from Dresden, one may traversethe valleys of Plauen and Tharand. The BlackHorse and the Golden Star are two good inns atFreyberg, where the population may be from tento eleven thousand souls. At the Hotel de Ville,there is a large collection of ancient suits ofarmour, and not far from this place is the silvermine belonging to the late elector and king. Theguide who shews this mine always expects a rixdollar for his trouble. In fact, Dresden and itsenvirons are interesting places to the admirers ofnatural history. If the Prussians are the Macedonians ofGermany, as some writer has observed,the Saxons are the Athenians. Almost on everyside of Dresden you must enter the city throughsome walk more or less embellished by an agreeable verdure. Towards the new town, a longalley conducts you into a spacious square, with anequestrian statue in its centre. You are then approaching one of the finest bridges in Germany.From the centre ofthis bridge you see in perspec-•D D贗302 RIESENGEBIRGE, OR GIANT MOUNTAINS.tive to the right, a modern church of elegant architecture; and further off to the left, the darkened,but majestic dome, ofa more ancient temple oppo- site the Electoral Palace. At length you arrivebetween two imposing masses of public buildings,when crossing a spacious square, it leads youto theHotel of Saxony.A pleasant and romantic excursion may be madefrom Dresden to visit the Riesengebirge, or, asthey are sometimes called, the Bohemian mountains; they commence at Freyberg, a mine- town atabout twenty miles distance from Dresden.Too many travellers are apt to suppose theyhave seen the Giant Mountains, after havingascended on the side of Schmeideberg, and justproceeded along its skirts as far as the cataract ofZacken, or at farthest to Flinsberg! This tour,it must be acknowledged, furnishes them withsome general ideas, but that is all; they cannotpretend to know any thing of the Sudetes, unlessthey have traversed the valleys of Bohemia tillthey reach the nearest towns; but, according tothe following directions, travellers may traversethe whole chain of these mountains, if they haveplenty of time, and are not tender-footed. Letthe traveller, then, begin his journey at Missersdorf, ifit is only for the sake of getting acquaintedwith the intelligent M. Gersdorf, should he bestill living: however this place, for any one proceeding from the circle of the Queiss, is the most convenient way.The Tafelfichte, which erects itself behind thisvillage, is the first interesting eminence; to ascendit, it is necessary to take a guide from Messersdorff; then it may be advisable not to inspect themost interesting part of this mountain till yourreturn; but proceed immediately with a goodROAD TO THE GIANT MOUNTAINS. 303guide to Liebwerda in Bohemia, where the mineral waters, as they ought to be, are much frequented. From thence you may proceed throughHayndorff to Reichenberg, famous for its nume.rous manufactures. On the road between thetwo last-mentioned places, you may visit thesources ofthe Iser, and the famous mineral springcalled the Zanktuck.Jeschenberg is to the east of Reichenberg, andthrough this place you may very conveniently passinto the villages of Przechowitz and Woleschnitz,which places mark the boundaries of the GiantMountains on the south-west. A little furtherthere is a road leading to the other side of theriver, from whence you may go directly throughRochlitz and the mountains, or, by making a smallcircle through Starkenbach, to Hohenelb. Thelatter place ought not to be omitted, as being theprincipal of the great possessions of M. Morzini;advice and instruction may be obtained there,which will be of great use in the prosecution ofthe journey. Travellers, whose principal objectis to see the most remarkable and striking viewsof the Giant Mountains, in quitting Hohenelbshould by all means follow the course ofthe river(the Elbe), and traverse its romantic valley as faras Leierbauden and Kremerbauden on the oneside, or to the valley of the Elbe on the other.Let the traveller then return to Fredericsthal,from whence he should ascend towards the east bythe stoney valley, and then along the crookedvalley, which he may leave by the path whichleads from Hohenelb to Wiesenbaude in the valley of Zehe, and through that under the Bertenplan to Petzhenkretscham in the Grand Aupa. Hewill then have gained the Giants ground, andascend towards the summit of their mountains, by DD 2304 PICTURESQUE SCENERY, THE SCHNEE- KOPF.the Fall of the Aupa; here he will have a sightof the two ponds, the south stone, &c.; then passing the great and little Sturmhaube, and tracingits snowy bottom, he may visit the Falls of theElbe and the Kochel, the meadow of the Cranes,and Preller's manufactory of vitriol. He willthen do well, before he quits the summit of theGiant Mountains, to take the cross-roads whichlead to the most distant parts of them near Hermsdorf, Liebau, Grussau, Landshut, in the neighbourhood ofthe rocks of Adersbach, famous frombeing called the Stone Forest. At Schmiedbergthere is a charming society of the lovers of literature, which they call the Odeum. From henceyou may ascend through Krumhubel to Kempelsbaude; but here the traveller should be providedwith Schnee-kofp, or snow shoes, and to endeavour to sleep at Wiesenbaude, because he will findbetter beds there than atHempelsbaude or Samuelsbaude. When the traveller comes to the vitriolmanufactory, he may make excursions to Kienast,Warmbrunn, to Hirshberg, and other places inthe environs, and conclude the journey by visitingSchriebershau, the Fall ofthe Zachen, the Flinzblanc, the Glass-house at Buchberg, the Joer andthe sands at Flinsberg, where there are mineralwaters similar to the Spa; there you may haveevery convenience for seeing Querbach, Giehren,and Grieffenstein, and returning by the way ofMesserdorff, as at first advised, you will find itonly one league from Flinzberg, and two from Greiffenstein.The time necessary to make the tour of theGiant Mountains, at your leisure, may extend tothree weeks, unless unforeseen accidents or bad weather should occur. It is proper to commencethis tour about the middle ofJune, or after Au-TOUR OF THE MOUNTAINS, THE BAUDen. 305gust, though ajourney in winter across this chainof mountains made in furs, and upon a kind ofsledge much used in this part of the country,would have a peculiar charm in it, as the expensewould not be considerable, not more than forty orfifty crowns, and considerably less with a partner.The two Zeedlers, father and son, at Schreibershau, are safe and honest guides, and enjoy theapprobation of all travellers.In the Bauden, viz. the buildings or lone houses,is not the custom to ask payment. Various descriptions have been published upon the Continent of the Sudetes, or Giant Mountains, oftheir minerals, plants, &c. And a late travellerhas remarked, that if he was to balance the pleasure he experienced in visiting these and theHartz Mountains, he should not hesitate in givingthe preference to the former, as till then he neverhad the pleasure of seeing nature or men in thesame light as they appeared to him in the GiantMountains.In the common books of Geography these mountains are allowed to be some of the loftiestin Europe; they commence at Friedberg, on thefrontiers of Upper Lusatia, near the Queiss, andform three ridges. The first in Lower Silesiaruns through the principalities of Jauer andSchweidnitz, into the principality ofMunsterbergand county of Glatz, separating Silesia from Bohemia, and is in general called the Bohemian Mountains. The part in the principality of Jauer, isproperly called the Giant Mountains: the secondridge commences in the principality of Munsterberg, and running through Neiss, Jagerndorff,Troppau, Teschen, as far as the Jablunka, is calledthe Moravian Mountains. These mountains areDD3806 DEVIL'S GROUND, DEVIL'S PASTURE, &c.remarkable for the so called Kettle, the Devil'sGround, the Devil's Pasture, and St. John'sWell;the latter frequented by vast numbers of peopleon St. John's day, who drink the water for the recovery of their health.LEIPSIC, A SMALL HANDSOME CITY. 307CHAP. IX.Route from Dresden to Berlin.From Dresden to Miesen Miesen to Stauchitz ....... Stauchitz to Wurmsdorf.. Wurmsdorf to Wurtzen.. Wurtzen to Leipsic......... Leipsic to Duben.. Duben to Wittenberg...Wittenberg to Trevenbrizen.. Trevenbrizen to Beelitz......Beelitz to Potsdam ...... Potzdȧm to Berlin......Posts. Miles. Hours.1 16 14 15 14 14 1 1011 15 2 22 2 2424 1 12 1 12 2 2043323446223 4431FROM Dresden to Leipsic is eighty-four Englishmiles, through Meissen, Stauchitz,Wurmsdorf andWurtzen. The road near Stauchitz is very indifferent; there is, notwithstanding, a good inn atthat place. About a mile on this side the Moldaupeople are ferried over, and the road from thenceto Leipsic is through a level and well cultivatedcountry.LEIPSIC, though a small but handsome city, isnow rendered famous as the scene of that battle,which, driving Buonaparte back to France, finallyled to his entire ruin. This city has four handsome free-stone gates, at each of which is a milepost, after the manner of the Romans. Posts ofthis description are erected near the gates of allthe towns of Saxony; from these posts travellerscount the leagues which are divided at the end of308 CHURCHES AND UNIVERSITY OF LEIPSIC.every quarter of a mile by other posts not solarge: these are placed upon all the great roadsshewing the distances. There are six churches atLeipsic for the Lutheran persuasion, which is the established religion; one for the reformed, and achapel for the Catholics. That of St. Nicholas islooked upon as the finest Lutheran church inGermany. The people of this town have introduced a new kind of luxury even in their devotion; one of the capital churches has a numberof chapels projecting about six feet from the mainwall, through which they communicate with thechurch, each chapel having its distinct door without. Some of the wealthiest citizens have bestowed 1500 or 2000 dollars on these auxiliarybuildings. The other objects most worthy ofnotice are, the great Market-place, the Exchange,the Stadt-house, and the Town Library.The University in this city, founded in 1409,was formerly very much frequented by foreigners.They have but four colleges, and twenty- fourprofessors; most of the students lodge and boardin the town, and do not, as at our Universities,reside within the walls of the college.The University Library, the College of St.Paul, and the anatomical theatre are worth seeing. In the library they have abundance of manuscripts, of which the most valuable is reckonedTretzer's Greek Commentary on Homer's Iliad,written in a fair character.At the late Michaelmas fair, 1814, the most business was, without dispute, done in articles themanufacture of Lyons; also in woollen cloths,kerseymeres, &c.; the latter had a favourable influence on the price of wool, till then exceedingly depressed. The Merino cloths, produced in various Saxon manufacturing towns, were in extraENGLISH HARDWARE, SADLERY. 309ordinary request. An Armenian merchant fromTeflis in vain offered Persian shawls for sale: thegreater majority invariably preferred cheaper articles; and it was, upon the whole, one of thecharacteristic features of the fair, that the finerand more costly articles of luxury, laces, finestuffs, after the highly tasteful French patterns,jewellery, &c., found scarcely any sale, becausethe higher classes had not sufficiently recoveredfrom the heavy losses and poverty occasioned bythe war.England sent immense quantities of goods toLeipsic. For the first time since the late warEnglish hardware, improved by a hundred patentinventions, was again to be had in abundance,and at very moderate prices. Such persons tooas preferred English harness, in which all the leather-work is incomparably better than any thatcan be met with on the Continent, had an excellent opportunity of supplying themselves. Largeorders for these articles arrived from all quarters,and extensive purchases were made. People wereastonished when they saw the lists of orders; onesingle house wanted 17,000 dozens of buttons.The English, however, did not meet with anequally advantageous market for their cottons andprinted stuffs; the deluge of these articles surpassed all conception: this was but natural, aswhatever had been destined for the AmericanStates was transferred to the Continent. Largequantities had gone by Holland and Belgium; butstill larger came by way of Bremen and Hamburgh to Leipsic. Owing, however, to improvements in taste and neatness on the Continent, andparticularly in Switzerland, the patterns of thesegoods appeared old- fashioned, or at least notagreeable. The Swiss and Saxon dealers in thoseP310articles, therefore, obtained a preference over theEnglish, among the Polish and Macedonian buyers, and those who purchased for the consumptionofGermany. The English, however, sold almostall their stock to clear their warehouses. Therewere also some very fine new English goods, andthese, as well as the best Swiss manufactures, greatquantities of which had been sent from Frankfortto Leipsic, were in great request, and sold by thepiece, at the rate offrom sixteen to eighteengroschen (two shillings to two shillings and threepence) per ell. Several Chemnitz houses, andparticularly Beeker and Hubner, did so much business, that their warehouses seemed to be completely exhausted. The English were in want ofGeorgia cotton- Wool, which they therefore boughtup at Hamburgh, and wherever they could findany. The Saxon manufacturers found the priceof the Macedonian and Levant cotton very high,being obliged still to pay eighty guilders for it,including the Austrian duties and carriage. Howvery much the balance of trade must be upon thewhole in favour of England is shewn by the progressively rising course of exchange, which, atMichaelmas, had got up from four rix-dollars,four groschen, to five rix-dollars, twenty-onegroschen. The payment of subsidies, it was observed, had been of course discontinued; but, onthe other hand, the whole Continent paid for athundred necessary and indispensable articles ofluxury far more to England, than England laysout on the Continent. To this circ*mstance it isto be ascribed, that colonial produce, instead offalling, as was at first expected, advanced in price,though people were very cautious in speculatingupon these articles.DEMAND FOR COLONIAL PRODUCE.Leipsic is a place of so much resort, that it hasMERSEBURG, NAUMBURG, JENA. 311perhaps more great roads leading to and from it,than any other town in Germany; one of theseleads westward, and, at about twelve miles distance, brings you to Merseburg.MERSEBURG upon the SAAL. The cathedralof this place is a fine Gothic building, and contains the tomb of the Emperor Rodolph, ofSuabia. His hand, which was cut off, is alsopreserved there. Merseburg contains some goodpictures, and a number ofcuriosities; as the Pub- lie Library, the Chapter, the Hotel de Ville, thePalace of the Count de Zech, the Bridge acrossthe Saal. At a very small distance are the bathsof Lauchstadt; the fine estate and the Englishgarden of the late M. de Hoffman at Dieskau;the salt-pits of Durrenberg; the pond of St. Gothard, and the village of Liebenau. Onthe wayfrom Merseburg to Naumburg, the field of battle atRosbach, is to be seen where the French weredefeated in 1757. The best prospect of this fieldis from the eminence behind the village ofKrampa,where a column with inscriptions was erected in1766.Trade, Manufactures, and Commerce. —Beer, ofwhich three sorts are distinguished at Merseburg,viz. kubel bier, murte bier, and lager bier; thelatter is esteemed the best. The value of thequantity brewed annually is estimated at 60,000 rix-dollars per annum .Another road, running south- west, brings you,after ajourney of eighteen miles, to NAUMBURG;this, as well as Jena, the scene of some events inthe late war, is a handsome place, and has a castle,and a chapter that must adhere to the Augsburgconfession. The annual fair, which commenceson the 25th of June, lasts eight days. The so312 THE KIRCHFEST AT ERFURT, &c.called Liberty, which is parted from the town bya wall, contains the cathedral, remarkable for itsfine altars, paintings, subterranean chapels, withthree lofty steeples, and the habitations of the canons. The vineyards hereabout, yield an excellentred wine. Four miles from the town is the Electoral School, called Pforta, which, with its churchand the salt mine at Kosen, are worthy of notice.On the twenty-eighth of July, there is an annualprocession of young people, called the Kirchfest,in remembrance of the children, who, by theirintercession, saved the place from the fury ofa Hussite general in 1432. This event forms the plot ofone of M. Kobzebue's dramas. A singular curiosity is preserved here, namely, some writing inchalk, by John Frederick the Magnanimous, Elector of Saxony, made prisoner at the battle ofMulhberg, which writing the owner of the househas had framed. The baths of Bibra, at a smalldistance, draw great numbers of visitors. Naumburg is eighteen miles south- west of Leipsic. TheBurger Garten, and the coffee-house at Eichhoff,are much frequented.Inns.-The Post House, The Cuirasse.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.- Stockings, bonnets, woollen gloves, turnery ware, soap,pens, leather, &c.Pursuing the same road, nearly forty miles farther, you will arrive atERFURT, which is remarkable for its fortressupon the Petersberg, and the secularized conventof the Bernardins, where is shewn the tomb of thefamous Bigamist Count de Gleichen, who, according to tradition is buried there withhis two wives.Abell at the Cathedral weighs 275 quintals. TheLutheran OrphanHouse, was formerly a convent ofFRIEDERICKSTHAL, GOTHA, &c.313the Augustins. Here Luther's cell, which he occupied from 1505 to 1512, is still shewn. Here areseveral libraries.Inns. The Roman Emperor, the White Horse.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. - Woollens, leather shoes, &c.From Erfurt, on the same road, at about twentymiles distance, is GOTHA, the capital of Saxa Gotha; it is situated upon the Leina, which runsthrough the town. The Duke's Palace, at alittledistance, is upon an eminence, called Friedenstein.Friedricksthal is a palace with a very fine gardennear the Siebleb. In the suburbs are delightfulwalks, with the Orangeries and the school foryoung noblemen. The Cabinet of Coins here,which, in 1785, contained 38000 species, received a valuable addition in BaronSchachman's collectionof antiques. The new buildings are very handsome, and the terrace is compared with that atWindsor. In the Neumarkts Church is the tombof several princes of the house of Gotha, and theportrait of the Grand Duke Bernard ofSaxe Weimar. The busts of Newton and Keppler embellish the garden of the duch*ess Dowager. TheErnestin Observatory is upon the Seeberg, a small distance from the town; from hence is to be seenthe Schneckopf, or Snow Head, a very high mountain in the forest of Thuringia: this is thirty-eightfeet higher than the Brocken.The public library of Gotha has received an important accession through the munificence of thereigning duke. That rich treasure, the privatelibrary of the late Duke Earnest II . collected byhimself with that bibliographie intelligence andtaste which distinguished him, and consequentlycomprizing the rarest and most costly works, had remained since his death in the care of his old li EE314 MOLSDORF, DIETENDORF, MORAVIANS.brarian Reichard. The duke has lately orderedthis collection to be added to the public libraryfor general use; but to be arranged separately,and a distinct catalogue of it prepared. It is expected that the American Library, as it is called,will also be kept separate. This appellation isgiven to a selection ofthe best works in all departments of the sciences, amounting to several hun.dred volumes, made bythe late Duke, who intended to carry it with him when he should put inexecution one of the favourite ideas of his latteryears, to retire as a private person to a hermitagein North America, and devote his life to study.The binding of the books is quite plain. Theliberality of the reigning Duke has also allottedthe oriental manuscripts, and books collected inAsia and Egypt by the celebrated Dr. Seezer, tothe public library, and thus given it a superiorityover every other similar institution in Germany.About nine English miles from Gotha is thevillage of Molsdorf, remarkable for its Chateauand its garden. It once belonged to the Countde Gotter, the Apicius of Germany, to whom theKing of Prussia addressed his witty Epistle, beginning with Combien de travaux il faut pour satisfaire des Epicuriens. The Count's library is stillthere, and in one ofthe rooms there are a numberofportraits ofactresses, dancers, &c. with some ofpersons of distinction. A great deal of companyis to be seen in these gardens on Sundays andFestival days, from every quarter in the envi.rons. At new Dietendorf, near this place, thereis a colony of Moravians, whose manufacturesare of a very good quality; the good orderand the neatness of these people is much admired.On the road to this village, we see the ruins ofthree ancient castles called the Gleichen; one ofEISLEBEN, LUTHER'S PULPIT, &c. 315these was formerly occupied by a Baron, who accompanied St. Louis to the Holy Land, where,being made prisoner by the Saracens, a younglady, who became enamoured of him effected hisliberty, and returned with him to Germany, whenhe promised to espouse her, under the idea thathis first lady was dead; but as he found her stillliving, he obtained a dispensation from the Popeto have two wives, he married his fair deliverer,and lies buried with them at Erfurt, in the churchof St. Peter. The best view ofthese ruined castlesis from Ringhofen, on the road from Arnstadt toGotha.Inns. The Negro, the Silver Bell in the greatsquare, and the city of Altenburg.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.Cloths,muslins, china, mathematical instruments, Pianofortes, saddles, &c.EISLEBEN, thirty five miles north west of Leipsic, is an ancient townfamous for its copper mines.The church of St. Andrew, contains many curiousmonuments. Here Luther's pulpit is preserved,but is not shewn more than thee times a year.The house in which Luther was born is at presenta school. His cloak and cap is still kept there.And an Album is presented to strangers, to inscribe their names; there are likewise some finepictures by Cranach, at Eisleben; two miles fromhere is the Salt Lake, and from a small eminence,upon which there is a pagan monument, there isa good view.The northern road from Leipsic conducts youto LUTZEN, twelve miles distant. The environsof this place are remarkable for the victory obtained there by Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden,but which cost him his life, in 1632. A largestone on the left side of the causeway between EE 2316Leipsic and Weissenfels, marks the spot where he fell. Charles XII. being with his army, wentto see the place where the blood of this great warrior had been shed, but probably had no apprehension, that a similar fate awaited him atFrederickshall. The late King of Sweden, whenin Germany, came to Lutzen to pay homage to aspot rendered famous by one of his ancestors.There is likewise an apartment in the bailiff'shouse at WEISSENFELS, on the right bank of theSaal, where they show the traces of the blood ofGustavus, whose body was dissected immediatelyafter the battle of Lutzen. An inscription herecontains several details. It is only since 1801,that relays of horses have been established be- tween Lutzen and Weissenfels.LUTZEN, WEISENFELS, WITTENBERG.On quitting Leipsic to the north- east, we pursue our way to Berlin; but passing through apleasant country, a distance of forty miles, wecome to WITTENBERG, a large town of an oblong form, consisting chiefly of one street. TheElector Frederic III. built here a strong castle,and endowed in 1502, an University, in which Luther first preached the reformation. It has largeprivileges, and was reckoned the best LutheranUniversity for divinity; but the Silesian warchanged the face of every thing, and not only thetown, but the University, suffered from the rage with which it was carried on. The tomb of Luther is here.Wittenberg was fortified in the ancient style.The old castle was entirely burned down, excepting the walls during the siege in 1760, and 114houses weredestroyed, comprehending almost onefourth of the town, which for a considerable timelaid in ruins. Only the church belonging to theUniversity has been rebuilt, and was consecratedDIRECTIONS TO TRAVELLERS IN PRUSSIA. 317in 1770. This University has a particular foundation for Hungarian Protestants, in the Augustineconvent, where they have a library of their own.In 1754, Baron Hohenthal built an orphan- househere. The bridge burned by the Swedes, in 1637,was replaced by another, erected in 1787. Thenumber of inhabitants is between six and seventhousand.As you proceed from Wittenberg the face ofthe country changes, and through a heavy sand you advance slowly to PorSDAM. It is situatedon a branch of the river Spree, and is of consi- derable extent. The houses are built of a finewhite stone, most of them nearly new, they aremuch of the same height. The streets are regular and well paved, and there are some very magnificent public buildings; so that Potsdam hasevery requiste to form an agreeable town, as faras regards the exterior; but in furniture and conveniences within the houses, Potzdam is a verypoor town indeed; many of these are nearly deserted, only a few soldiers being here and there to be seen.As the traveller is nowfast approachingPrussia,it may be as well to inform him , that it is customary, on arriving upon the frontiers of thatkingdom, for all passengers, whether travellingpost, or otherwise, to have their packages, portmanteaus, &c. sealed by a custom- house officer.If people do not choose to have their things inspected and sealed upon the frontiers, they mustleave them behind, and receive à certificate. Persons who have very little with them liable to paythe rights of entry, cannot avoid inspection onentering the gates of Berlin, where they usuallyleave their packages, &c. and proceed to theirlodgings or inns. It is bestfor travellers, on enEE 3318 ROYAL PALACE AT POTZDAM.tering any place, to repair immediately to theCustom - House, and submit what they have forexamination. A stranger should by no meansbring with him any playing cards whatever, eithernew or old, unless stamped with the Royal Arms of Prussia. All manufactures of the same kindas those manufactured in Prussia, are strictly prohibited, as are also foreign Almanacks, unlessthey bear the stamp of the academy of Sciences.But a stranger may avoid any trouble whatever,by giving in a faithful statement ofhis effects andevery thing with him, excepting his clothes,linen, &c. when no more than the regular dutieswill be required. As to contraband goods, theyare not seized, but are always sealed, and detained till the return of the owner to the place wherethey may happen to be detected. If a strangereven purchases goods or merchandize in anyplace in Prussia, to take to another part ofthatkingdom, it is necessary they should be sealed atthe Custom House, and that the owner shouldthen receive a printed certificate,that these thingshave been manufactured in the kingdom, and havealready paid the impost. Goods are never stopped on the highway, but the Inn- keepers are under the necessity of honestly informing everystranger on his arrival, that he is not permitted toconceal his real name, under a penalty of at least fifty rix dollars.The houses near the royal palace at Potzdamare almost all built in the Italian style. Thegreat parade with the Roman colonnades, beforethe town, is made use of as a place of exercise forthe Kiug's Guards and the garrison . In the market place here, is a marble obelisk 75 feet inheight, and four marble statues of Frederic William the great, and the three first King's of Prus-TOMB OF FREDERIC WILLIAM. 319 .sia. The magnificent Calvinist Church for thecourt and garrison, has an excellent set of chimes,the ascent to the summit of which is by 365 steps.Under the pulpit, which is of white and red marble, is the tomb of King Frederic William, whodied in 1740. This tomb is a little kind of chamber in which are two coffins, the one of blackmarble, containing the body of Frederic Williamthe Ist. and the other, the remains of Fredericthe IId. The last is in a kind of metal case, by,some said to be silver, which gives a hollowsoundwhen slightly struck. Here rests without pomp,the dust of what was once the great Frederic:here Buonaparte is said to have passed some timein musing; and here at midnight, the Emperorof Russia swore fidelity to the Prussian cause.The spot has been rendered illustrious by theliving and the dead, and no traveller should cometo Potzdam or Berlin, without devoting a day tovisit the palaces, (which we shall presently describe), and the coffin of Frederic.The Church of the Holy Ghost, and the Cathotholic Church, erected in 1739, in which areexquisite paintings, are well worthy of notice:here is also a capital manufactory of fire arms,two large orphan houses for the children of soldiers, an extensive poor house, and the newFrench Calvinist church, built after the model ofthe Pantheon at Rome; a Jew's Synagogue.The monument of Quants, the celebrated playeron the flute, is much admired, which Fredericcaused to be erected in the cemetery ofthe suburbofNanen at Potzdam.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures. Firearms, silk, cotton, linen, varnished wares, ribbons,hats, pencils, leather, &c.320 PALACES OF SANS SOUCI.Near this place, are two celebrated palaces,called Sans Souci: in the old one, a building ofbut a single story high, ornamented on one sideby figures, and on the other by a colonade ofeighty-eight columns, forming a semicircle, isstill shewn the apartment, where the Great Frederic breathed his last. The library is as he leftit, with the last book he read, remaining out ofits place. The great hall or gallery, is upwardsoftwo hundred and sixty feet in length,andthirtyfive in breadth, handsomely paved with differentcoloured marbles: over the inside ofthe doors, ateach end are two beautiful antique bas reliefs,dug up near Rome. The pictures are arrangedalong one side ofthe gallery, only opposite to thelight; and there is reason to regret the blankspaces, left by the removal of several ofthe bestpaintings to Paris: there still remains, however,some of the master-pieces of Rubens, Titian,and Vandyke, particularly two beautiful cabinetpaintings upon gold, in one of which, the effectproduced by the metal shining through thecolours, is altogether magical.At no great distance, stands the new Sans Souci,finished in six years. The centre towards thegardens, is three stories in height; there are upwards oftwenty rooms, all containing somethingremarkable: but the sight ofthe hall of shells alone,will amplyrepay the trouble ofvisiting this place;its regularity and grandeur are truly astonishing.It was built by Frederic the Second, who beganit in 1793, and it is certainly a very noble andsplendid work. The offices are at a considerabledistance, and are joined to the body of the palaceby a double colonnade, which has a very grandeffect. The front of the palace seems rathercrowded, by the great number of statues, whichEMBELLISHMENTS, CABINETS, &c. 321are intended to ornament it: these are generallyin groups, representing some story from Ovid.This building has a cupola terminated by a largecrown, supported by the three graces. On theground floor, in the middle, is a large circularhall, whose floor, sides, and roof are all of marble; the columns, paintings, and floor, inlaid withfestoons of flowers, in the Tuscan manner, aretruly admirable; it is called the grotto, and the ornaments correspond with that name. Thisroom can be agreeable only when the weather istexcessively hot: in Italy it would be delightful ,the roof of this hall is low and vaulted, andsupports another room in all respects, ofthe samedimensions, only higher , this second room isalso lined with beautiful marble. In these hugeapartments, the chairs and marble tables appeardiminutive, and manhimselfbecomes insignificant,compared even with the workmanship of his ownhands.

One of the rooms is wainscotted with cedar,covered with festoons of gold, and contains aroyal library. In the front, a vineyard presentsitself to view, with six terraces, each twelve stepsin height, and the best vines are enclosed in greenhouses; at the foot of the hill is a delightful pleasure garden with a fine basin, and twelve marblefigures the two pavilions on each side theorangery, and a gallery of exquisite pictures addto the charms of this spot; the pleasure gardenleads to a park, where there is a Chinese templeAfter crossing the stone bridge, two more finetemples present themselves to the right and left;one of them contains a cabinet of polished stonesand antiquities, from the collections of BaronStortch, and Cardinal Polignac. The new castle, orpalace built by Frederic II. after the peace ofHub-322 BERLIN, THE SPREE, BRIDGES , &c.ertsburgh, is a structure of incomparable beauty,grandeur and taste; the doors ofthe whole building are nothing but glass. The only painting in it,is a portrait of Gustavus Adolphus. On one side ofthis Chateau, are a number of stone tombs, containing the King's dogs, with the name of eachinscribed.From Potzdam it is two posts, or twenty miles,to BERLIN, the road heavy and uninteresting;you are however recompensed for the wearinessit occasions by the sight of Berlin, one of the handsomest cities in the north ofGermany.The streets of the Prussian capital, are mostlybroad and regular, and the houses either built ofstone or stuccoed. From space to space, palaces,churches, theatres and other public buildings, present too continued an uniformity, and yet seemall parts ofone great plan. The Spree, which runsthrough the centre, gives an appearance of maritime commerce to this inlaid city, to which the traveller arrives, through endless roads of sand.Barges ofa hundred feet in length,with a prow andstern alike, sharp and rising high out of the water,recall the elegant shape of the gondolas of Venice,but serve the more useful purposes of internal commerce, and of communication with the Oder.By them the wood ofthe forest, and the coals andmanufactures of Silesia and Engla_d, are transported to Berlin at an easy rate. "The bridgesover the Spree, are a further ornament to thecity; several of them are of stone, and adornedwith statues, and appear as if connected with theadjoining buildings. The principal bridge is ofhewn stone, about one hundred and seventy feetin length, with five arches, ornamented withmarine figures; besides the stone bridges, thereGATE OF BRANDENBURG. 323are many of wood, which cross the Spree, andthe canals belonging to it.What tends much to preserve the heat appearance of the streets of Berlin, is the total absenceof beggars: no sooner does one appear, than heis apprehended by the police, and sent to theHouse of Industry. Berlin is surrounded by aslight wall of twelve or fourteen feet high, withpallisades, and has fifteen gates, of which that of Brandenburg, is by far the most striking; it ismodelled after the Propyleum of Athens, erectedby Pericles, and terminates one of the finest streets in Berlin; in the centre of the street, is agravel walk, bordered on each side with lindentrees, and this, on fine evenings is generallycrowded with company; the gate itself is a species ofcolonnade, of twelve fluted Doric columns,and as many smaller, with ten pilasters, so arranged and joined as to afford six openings. Overthe architrave, a flight of steps leads to a platform, on which stood a chariot with four horses,and a figure emblematic of the triumph ofpeace;this the French removed to Paris. The bas reliefs, represent the combat ofthe Centaurs, and theLapitho; on each side two guard houses, muchlower than the gate, form part ofthe design, andserve at least to connect the elegant structurewith the adjoining buildings; through the openings of the gate, are seen the trees of the park,which begins immediately on the outside ofit, andis the great resort of the inhabitants. It containsabout eight hundred acres, six hundred of whichare planted with young oaks, pines, beech, elm,and birch. This little forest, so close to the walls,has a charming effect. Numerous paths intersectit, where in the hottest weather, the strangermay walk in the shade, and totally forget that he324 THE PARK, THE ARSENAL, &c.is so near the metropolis of Prussia. Severalopenings are adorned with statues, but none verystriking; it was noticed with surprize in 1812,that very few of the young trees, even close tothe paths, were in any degree injured; noboughs broken off, no bark wantonly carriedaway; and that such would not be the case near any large city in Great Britain.The arsenal is one of the finest buildings, inBerlin, and standing near other public edifices,is evidently superior to them all; it has an air ofgloomy grandeur well suited to the purposes for which it is formed; it is surrounded by iron chainssupported by cannon, and all its external ornaments consist of helmets, swords and trophies.An entrance into this place is extremely difficult to procure. The keystones of the windows in theinside, it is said, represent the heads of dying menofvarious expressions, and such as might easily be collected on a common field of battle. It consists of four grand buildings, that form a spaciousquadrangle with four fronts, almost equally alike,with three great porticos at the entrance of each,the lower story is of rustic architecture, witharched windows. The grand floor consists ofarches charged with rustics, which support pilasters of the Ionic Order; over the principal gate,which is in the middle, is the effigy of one of theElectors of Brandenburg, of brass gilt.four cardinal virtues, of a gigantic size, are placedon pedestals on each side the portico, and seemto look towards the figure, and over it, is theElector's cypher, in the middle of a cartouch crown. The first story is very beautifully executed in the Corinthian Order; round the wholeruns a balustrade with noble decorations of trophies, statues, &c. Near the arsenal there is aTheMODE OF TRAVELLING FROM BERLIN. 325free-stone sluice, with a fine large basin, whichmay be called the port of Berlin; for here youmay see a number of boats continually passing upand down the river, that can come close to thecustom-house.At a small distance from the Brandenburg gate,is a square, containing five marble statues ofGenerals, who distinguished themselves in thewars of Frederic the Second; their costume hasbeen much censured. In some of the churchesat Berlin, kettle drums are used in the chorus ofthe psalms. In the church of St. Nicholas, in apainting ofthe Last Judgment, a child is represented entering heaven riding upon a stick.From the mouth ofthe Elbe to Berlin, a distance nearly of one hundred and fifty miles, thecountry is almost one continued plain, the fewelevations that are met with, are scarcely deserving the name of hills. The soil is throughoutsandy, and at irregular intervals, blocks ofgraniteof various sizes, from one hundred weight toseveral tons, appear above the surface. Theseare particularly forced upon the traveller's notice,when he sees them scattered among fields,not covered by the rising corn, or ranged alongthe sides ofroads ofpure sand.The mode oftravelling from Berlin to Dresdenis by no means in such convenient carriages, asare used in the south of Germany; the commoncarriage here, is nothing better than a long opencart, perfectly uncovered, and the seats merelyboards flung across; in such machines women areoften seen travelling. It would appear accordingto a modern traveller, that since the days ofCæsar, very little improvement has been made intheir form, it being hardly possible for the ancientGermans to have used ruder vehicles, than thoseFF326. MASSY PLATE FURNITURE.hourly seen in the heart of civilized Germany.Berlin is divided into five wards, namely Berlin Proper, Coln on the Spree, Frederic'sWerder, Dorotheen Stadt, and Konigstadt. Thewards are generally separated by handsome canals,with draw-bridges over them, as in Holland. TheJews in this city, as in many others in Germany,have a street appropriated to them. On a stonebridge called the Pont Neufover the river Spree,stands an equestrian statue of Frederic William.This is esteemed a piece of exquisite workmanship; both the man and horse are but one entirepiece, and were cast at one time.The Pont Neuf leads to the ralace, amagnificent structure of free-6 is, began by Frderic I in 1699; but as it loaaseen the work ofseveral architects, the food are not exactly regular. It consists9our stories, with largeapartments, finongs, and magnificent furniture, adorne with silver in every shape. Thetables, stands, lustres, chandeliers, screens, looking glasses, frames, couches, &c. are all of thatmetal. In the apartment called the knight's hallthere is a beaufet, which takes up one entire sideofthe room, where there are cisterns and greatbasins of silver gilt. This plate furniture is somassy, that about four millions of dollars mightbe realized to serve the necessities of the state.There is a fine gallery, with handsome paintingsdone by the best hands. The hall has severalothers, and the grand saloon is adorned with fourpieces of tapestry; the throne in the audiencechamber is of velvet, embroidered with gold; inthe apartments of the old quarter of the palace,there is a bed of crimson velvet, whichhas above two hundred cyphers with electoralcrowns set with pearls; the chairs in the room areCOLLECTION OF FIVE HUNDRED BIBLES. 327in the same taste. In this bed it is usual to lodgepersons of the royal blood on their marriagenight.One of the two staircases, leading to the grandroom ofthis palace, is contrived in form of a glaciswithout any step, so that a coach may be drivento the top. On that side the palace next the garden, is the library, pretty well furnished withbooks; there is a collection of Bibles to theamount of five hundred, in different languagesand editions. They shew here the Koran in asmall octagon, the character so minute and thepaper ' n, as to form only the bulk ofone inch and an u Near the library there is a cabinet ofrarities, w choice collection of medals.M. Nose, Cou. lor ofLegation at Endenach,near Bonn, has enri! the Cabinet of the University ofBerlin, by apfossils of the Lower RhiLof1000 specimens.t ofhis collection ofprising upwardsThe King's stables are a spacious building,facing the great street from Frederic Stadt. Theyare divided into courts, and nine pavilions, of anequal distance from each other. The architecturewithout, is Gothic, but the inside is more magnificent. The back of the stables project towards theriver Spree, to which they lead the horses by astair-case, built in form of a horse shoe withoutsteps. Here are very good apartments for themaster of the horse and his officers.The streets of the Werder-ward run in a straightline; the principal one is adorned with seven rowsof limes, the middlemost row is enclosed with abalustrade to keep off carriages, and forms a pleasant grass walk for foot passengers: the walks oneach side are paved, and serve as a ring for coaches. On both sides of these rows are fineFF 2"328 · SPANDAU AND BELVIDERE.palaces. In the suburbs the houses are generallyoftimber, but so well plastered that they seem tobe of stone; and the streets are broad, straight,and lightsome. In that of Spandau, there is a mostdelightful pavilion, properly called the Montajou,furnished with great judgment and elegance, whichhas charming gardens that lie open to the river.In the suburb of Stralau, is the house from itsfine prospect, called Belvedere, belonging to theking.(BRANDENBURG, OLD AND NEW. 329CHAP. X.Route from Berlin through Hanover to Hamburg.From Berlin to Potzdam..... Potzdam to Grossen-Crentz..... Grossen-Creutz to Brandenburg.Brandenburg to Ziesar.... Ziesar to Hokenzies......Hokenzies to Magdeburg.Magdeburg to Archlem... Archlem to Helmstadt.. Helmstadt to Brunswick Brunswick to Peine ...........…………….Peine to Siende................…………………… Siende to Hanover……….......Hanover to Gottingen... Gottingen to Hartz-forest .Hanoverto Zell...........Zell to HamburgPosts. Miles. Hours.2 20 41골 13 1 101 1811 15 2 212 20 12 1 10 21 2511 15 1 12 ........ 1443687947233 531 10 60 10005061ON your quitting Berlin, you reach in fourposts and a half, or about forty-three miles,Brandenburg, a small town, divided into old andnew, by a river, which separates the forts fromboth; but the whole number of inhabitants donot amount to 1500.It has a good Inn, the Black Eagle; and sometrifling woollen manufactories.FF3330 MAGDEBURG, LUTHER THE REFORMER.From Brandenburg it is five posts, or fifty-fourmiles to Magdeburg; you see the turrets of itat least four hours before you enter the suburbs.MAGDEBURG was the capital of the dutchy ofthat name; it is situated on the Elbe, which divides here into many branches, so that the streetsare united by bridges. It was destroyed in 1631after a very brave defence, by Count Tilly, theImperial General. The town was pillaged onthat occasion, and most of the inhabitants put tothe sword. Great part of the city has been sincerebuilt. The Lutherans have at different periods,erected eight handsome churches; the chief ofthem, is the lofty cathedral of St. Maurice, builtof free-stone, and which fortunately escaped thegeneral destruction in 1631: the high altar ofthismagnificent building, is a table of jasper stone,eighteen feet long, eight broad, and two in thickness. Here is a fine large organ, the masterpipe ofwhich, is thirty-three feet long, and solarge that a man can scarcely clasp it. In Otho'schapel, that Emperor is represented in basso relievo over the altar, with the Empress Edgitha,both behind the altar. In the front of the choirthere is a fine marble statue of St. Maurice, thepatron of the church. Among other ornamentshere, are the statues of the five wise virginssmiling, and the five foolish ones lamenting;very well executed.T€Luther the reformer, had his education in thiscity, and they still shew the remains ofhis chamber, among the ruins ofthe cloister of the AustinFriars, with his bedstead and table. The tiltsand tournaments which were first instituted herein the tenth century by the Emperor Henry, surnamed the Fowler once rendered this city famous.After these exercises had continued some time,' EQUESTRIAN STATUE, THE STAR FORT. 331they were suppressed, seventeen gentlemen ofFranconia, and nine of Hesse, having been killed at one tournament in 1473. Magdeburg isreckoned one of the strongest places in Germany,being surrounded with very good walls, strongbastions, deep ditches, and covered by an excellent citadel, situated on an island in the Elbe.Frederic I. built a palace in this city, whichfaces the great square before the cathedral, andis opposite to the citadel, which was also built byhim. Over against the town house, there is enclosed in a sort of cage, an equestrian statue;which the city erected in honor of the EmperorOtho, who enlarged this town, accompanied withhis two wives, Edgitha and Adelais . The greatsquare before the royal palace, has few equal to itfor its extent and fine houses, all uniform andthree stories high. There is an arsenal in thiscity, well provided with military implements.This town has two suburbs, Sudenburg and Friedrickstadt: the Star Fort before the Sudenburggate, with its numerous subterranean galleriesand mines, is particularly remarkable.The situation of this city on the river Elbe is ofconsiderable advantage, in point of trade. Henceits great magazines for the reception of merchandize brought from Hamburg on the Elbe, andsent from hence to Leipsic and other parts byland. The river forms an island before the town,and has some works ofearth cast up: this islandis joined both to the country and town by twobridges. The current ofthe Elbe near the townis very strong, and to prevent the ill consequencesofa rapid stream, a sluice has been constructed.Here are fourteen floating mills for grinding corn,which, as well as the water-works, merit notice.332 HELMSTADT, QUEEN OF SWEDEN.Inns.-The King of Prussia, where you meetwith excellent beds, fine linen, and a plentifultable.HELMSTADT is three posts, or thirty miles fromMagdeburg, it has the reputation of being one ofthe oldest towns in this country, it has a botanicalgarden, but its university has fallen to decay, andthe greatest part of its library has been removed.Twenty five miles further, through improvingroads and a pleasant country, you arrive atBRUNSWICK, Situated in the midst ofa plain, andupon the river Oder, in the principality of Wolfenbuttel. The Ducal palace is called the GreyCourt. In 1735 the Collegium Carolinum wasfounded here, in which young people of qualityare instructed in languages and sciences. In 1530the first spinning wheels were made at this placebyone Jurger, a stone mason and statuary; andits celebrated beer, called Mum, so named afterits inventor, Christian Mumme, is exported to allparts ofthe world without losing its virtue.houses are all ofwood, even to the palace, andpainted of a dull olive colour, which gives thetown rather a melancholy appearance.TheOn the square at Brunswick a statue ofa Lion,was erected in 1172. The cathedral contains thetomb of Duke Henry the Lion, and several princes and emperors of the family of the Guelphs.The celebrated Queen Christina of Sweden, inhabited the house No. 748, in the Schaaren Gasse,upon which agilded crown has been put up in memory ofthat event. In a collection of Naturalhistory and curiosities here, is the celebrated vaseof Mantua, with cameos, medals, &c.In the vicinity, is the garden of Duke Charles;the plantation of mulberries at Munzenberg; thecelebrated library at Wolfenbuttel, and the monu-HANOVER, THE ELECTOR'S PALACE. 333ment of Lessing. At the Chateau of Salsdalum near Brunswick, several thousands offine sets ofchina are to be seen. The distance from Brunswick to Hanover is forty- one miles.Inns.-The English Hotel; The Blue Angel.Trade, Manufactures, and Commerce. - Cloths,stuffs, varnish, papier mache, earthen-ware, glau- ber's Salts.HANOVER, the capital ofthe Electorate, is situated on a sandy plain. The Leina divides this placeinto two parts, called the old and new town; butvessels cannot come up higher than the Aller.This is a neat, thriving, and agreeable city, wellpaved and lighted, and has more the air of anEnglish town than any other in Germany.AThe principal churches, are those dedicated toSt. James and the Holy Cross, which are built ofstone, and remarkable for some good paintings.The Elector's palace, is the castle, which standson one side of the town upon the banks of theLeina, near the walls. It is a large building offree-stone, containing several square courts. Inconsequence of a fire which happened some years since, great part of it has been rebuilt. Therooms are commodious, as well as grand, and many of them are hung with rich tapestry, for whichthis palace is most distinguished. The Operahouse, as well as the Theatre for the French comedians, both within the palace, are ancient, but commodious. The whole is rather rich, decent,and elegant, than splendid. The chapel of thepalace is very handsome. In the chancery orsecretary's office, there is a large library, filledwith a good collection of books, and several valuable manuscripts. The Roman Catholics aretolerated in this city, and have a very handsome church of modern architecture. The situation of334 HERRENHAUSEN; AN ENGLISH BIBLE.Hanover is very agreeable, and there are severalpleasant seats in the neighbourhood; a branch ofthe Aller runs into the Weser, and consequentlycommunicates with Bremen. Here are four fairsin theyear, much frequented by foreigners.The King's stables are a noble structure builtby George the first. The royal palace at Herrenhausen, lies about two English miles to the northward ofthe city. The way to it is through a pleasant avenue of trees: but the road is sandy. * Ernest Augustus, our present King's Great Grandfather, built this palace in 1760; the greater partofit, is ofwood. The furniture is rich, and thereare some good pictures. The garden may bejustly admired; one side of it is covered by anarrow piece of water, a quarter of a mile inlength; the walks are mostly of gravel, and arewide and spacious, large squares and basins dividing several parts of the garden. The intermediate spaces are formed by lofty groves andorchards; the whole produces a grand effect.The remaining objects most worthy ofnote, arethe Cannon Foundery, the Duke of Cambridge'sHotel; that of the States, and the monuments ofWerlof, and the celebrated Leibnitz. Here is anEnglish Bible printed at Oxford, of which thereare but four copies extant. The garden ofMadame Dekken is worth visiting, so is the wood ofEllenried, and the houses of Count Walmoden andMontbrilliant: the Botanic Garden at Herrenhausen, is perhaps only exceeded by that of Schonbrunn near Vienna. The amusem*nts are theFrench Theatre, the Amateur's Concert, &c.Inns. The London Tavern, and the New Tavern.PYRMONT; THE WATERS, &c. 335From Hanover, an excursion of about fortymiles south-west may be made to the mineralsprings of Pyrmont.PYRMONT, in the circle of Westphalia, is an opentown, situated in a delightful valley, betweenhigh mountains. It is celebrated for mineral waters, very wholesome, both for bathing and drinking. The springs here were discovered in thefourteenth century. In 1556, there was an extraordinary concourse from all the countries ofEurope tothe waters of Pyrmont. In 1681 , aboveforty persons of princely rank were there; andamong them the Queen of Denmark, and herson-in-law, Prince George. The delightfulwalks, and the situation of the place, make aresidence highly gratifying. The castle built in1706, and lately enlarged and embellished, wasthe summer residence of the Prince of Waldeck,during the watering season, which commencesabout the latter end of June, or the beginningof July. Those persons who wish to avoid aconfluence of people should go to Pyrmont either in the beginning, of June, or stay awaytill August. The time for drinking the waters isfrom six till eight in the morning. The companygenerally breakfast at nine, anddine at one, at thefarthest. The rest of the afternoon, till four.o'clock, is devoted to dressing; the company thengenerally repair to the walks, the principal ofwhich is composed of four rows of lofty lindentrees, planted in 1688. This walk is 500 feet long,and forty broad. The shops and the springs, thesaloons, the theatres, &c, are all in the vicinity ofthese walks. Here is excellent music every morning, and very frequently exhibitions of fireworksin the evening. The public breakfasts, the pic:nics, balls, concerts, and plays, at Pyrmont, afford336 ENVIRONS OF PYRMONT, RUINS, &c.a considerable diversity of amusem*nt, and causethe time to pass away very agreeably.The wearing of swords is very strictly prohibited. At the new baths the lodgings are veryconvenient, and the price of each is marked uponthe door. Apartments may also be taken at thehouse called the Roelting, or of some of the inhabitants, who let part of their houses. Dinnerand supper time is always announced by the ringing of a bell.-A dinner here costs from eight tosixteen groschen. There are table d'hotes or ordinaries, without number, but that belonging to the Ball- room has the most agreeable company.The environs of Pyrmont are picturesque, particularly the Blomberg, to which you may go in acarriage. Mont Royal, formerly called the Oesterberg, obtained its name from Frederick theGreat taking the waters there. It is even said,that here he planned the second campaign of Silesia.Amarble monument testifies the predilection ofthe Great Frederick for this spot. Here is also awooden obelisk erected by Frederick Williamthe second, which is falling to decay. At Friedensthal, the valley ofpeace, there is a colony of Quakers, where there is also a considerable manufactory of cutlery. The convent of Ludge, whereCharlemagne kept Christmas in 784, is still to beseen. The Sepulchral church here is of great antiquity. Schieder is in a situation romantic andpleasant. The castle of Arminius; the ruins ofSchall Pyrmont , the sulphur mine, &c. are allworthy notice. The garden of Schwobber is thefirst of all the English gardens in Germany. Hereare many rare plants and trees. At Eilsen, in theneighbourhood of Pyrmont, there are also someaANTIQUE STONES; THE HARTZ. 337sulphureous springs, which threaten to rival thoseof Nenndorf. The spot called the Exterstein, isabout three miles from Pyrmont. This name isgiven to some large stones of very remote antiquity, which, however, seem to have been theworks of rude artisans, and to have been placedthere, for the purpose of perpetuating some me-.morable event.About the distance of sixty miles south of Hanover, with a regular road from that place to it, isGOTTINGEN. This place, so famous for its university, is the chief, of four large towns in theCalenberg, situated on the New Leina, in a fertileand delightful valley. The Library of this University, in 1788, contained 120,000 volumes. ItsMuseum possesses a valuable collection of coins,with a cabinet of animal, vegetable and mineralcuriosities. Ever since 1784, a prize question hasbeen proposed for the students here, ofthe valueof25 ducats, or twelve guineas. Among the literary Institutions, are the Seminary for Preachers;the college of Divinity; the Pastoral Institution;the Surgical, Lying- In, and Sick Hospitals: theBotanical garden, the observatory, and the Philo.logical Seminary. M. Blumenbach, has a richcabinet of natural history, and his collection ofsculls, is supposed to be the most complete extant.The environs of Gottingen are extremely picturesque, particularly at Hanstein.Inns, The Crown and the city of London.Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures.--Woollens,cloths, stuff, stockings.་From Gottingen you may visit the HARTZ ›FOREST, about fifty miles distant, the principal:attraction ofwhich, is the BROCKEN MOUNTAIN.This mountainous district of the north of Germany, possesses many desiderata for the ingeniousGG338 THE BROCKEN, WERNIGERODE.and inquisitive traveller. Numbers of peopleproceed from Gottingen to visit thisfamous mountain, from the summit ofwhich you have the viewofa plain, seventy leagues in extent, with a population of five millions, no small portion of that ofEurope. As your view however, depends verymuch upon the state of the atmosphere, it is advisable to prefer the autumn to summer, becausethe sky here is then less charged with vapoursthan in June and July. There are two highroads for carriages, and five paths that lead to thesummit of the Brocken, Foot passengers shouldascend on the side of Schierker, and descend by thefootway which leads to Isembourg. BetweenSchierker and Henrichshohe, you will meet withblocks ofgranite like those seen upon St. Gothardand tables of the same, equal to those upon theGrimsel. It is improper to ascend the Brockenat night, even with expert guides, for fear offalling into the bogs and marshes. The new roadmade by Count Stohlberg Wernigerode is, beyonddispute, the best.The Stag at Wernigerode is an excellent Inn,and here you may hire mules, and even carriages,that will convey you to the summit ofthe mountain for six, or eight crowns. It is no longer theWolckenhausen (the houses in the clouds), thatoffers you a little inconvenient lodging; but a capacious well-built Inn, where you may repose,and refresh yourself at your ease; and where youmay have an apartment to yourself, agood dinner,agood supper, and good beds, at a very moderatecharge. It is to the Count of Stolberg Wernigerode, that travellers are indebted for having suchanagreeable residence at such an immense height,where completely at their ease, fromtheir window,or their sopha, they may observe the rising andPICTURESQUE ROCKS, ALBUMS, &c. $39setting sun. If the Monastery upon Mount St.Bernard, where one can only meet with a baresubsistence, is one ofthe most elevated habitationsupon the ancient continent of Europe, certainlythe Inn upon the Brocken that affords every dainty,is much more estimable. Besides, this buildingresisted the terrible hurricane of 1800, which certainly doesgreat credit to the Architect Sieur Bath.To avoid the effects of lightning, three conductorshave been placed upon its summit.From this eminence, the town of Winzigerodeand the groupe of rocks called Hahnen Klippen,are highly picturesque. At this Inn there are anumber of albums for those visitors who choose toinscribe their names; there is also a telescope,and several copies of M. Schroeder's description ofthe Brocken. Those travellers who visit Wernigerode should not forget to see the Count's English garden, which exhibits a specimen of all thebeauties ofnature and art.Upon the summit of the Brocken, some blocks ofgranite bear the name ofthe wizards chair, and thewizards altar. A spring of very clear water islikewise called the magic fountain. The beautiful Anemone that grows here is vulgarly termedthe Sorcerer's flower! The origin of all these superstitious fables is to be traced to the SaxonPagans, who, onthe first ofMay, used to celebratethe feast of their great idol Crotho upon this isolated eminence, for fear of the inhabitants oftheplains, who were mostly converts to Christianity.The Brocken, according to the calculation of M.Rosenthal, is 3455 French feet above the level ofthe north sea,According to the recent observations of M.Zach, made in 1803, at the Brocken Inn, the latiGG 2340 CURIOSITIES, GROTTOS, &c.tude of this hospitable house is 51° 48, 1165",and the longitude 28° 16, 58' 65".The curiosities in the environs of the Brockenare the Ilsenstein, an isolated rock $20 feet inheight, with those of Schnarden, Renneche, andHohhenklippen, and the waterfall oftheBode, famous forexcellent trout near Rosstrappe. The latter is awall ofperpendicular rock, forming a kind of drywell, from five to 600 feet deep. It is about onemile from Blankenberg and one and a half fromWernigerode. TheOderbrucke, or the Odersbridge,is a dike formed by enormous blocks of granite.This dike, arresting the course of the Oder, hascompelled that river to form a pond to the extentofupwards of ten thousand square fathoms, and which produces most excellent trout. The roadthat runs by the side of this dike, affords numerousviews, highly picturesque, and the dike, the pond,and the canal of Rehberg, upwards of four English miles in length, are well worth seeing. Nextto these is the famous grotto called BaumannsHole. The person that acts as guide on this occasion, is a relative to him that discovered thiscave, and enjoys the profit arising from shewingitto strangers, in consequence of an exclusive privilege secured to the family. There is a book inthis cave, or grotto, in which travellers write theirnames. There are passages here from one cavernto another; but they are dangerous. The Stalac- tites, ofa thousand different forms which embellishthis grotto, are not so remarkable as the petrifiedbones found in the ground hereabouts, Biel orBielshole, is another grotto, rediscovered since 1788, by a person named Bekker, who has beenmade both guide and proprietor; and asthe access to this is not so difficult as that to Baumanns, mosttravellers prefer visiting Bielshole.BLANKENBERG, THE HARTZWALD. 341Elbingerode, the next town to these grottos, isdistant nearly four miles; the Inn is at the BlueAngel. Blankenberg the next place to this, hasa good Inn, the Crown; and here are severalquarries of marble, mines, founderies, &c. TheCastle here, its numerous apartments, and a viewfrom the balcony, are objects of notice, with thefine promenade called the Thie; as are also theruins ofthe strong castle of Regenstein, and the view from the General's seat, unless people aresubject to a swimming in the head. From yourwindow of the great Inn at Ballenstadt, with animmense range of horizon, you see the steeples ofa number of towns, and the rocks of GegensteinOn the way from Blankenberg to Ballenstadt youpass through the village of Rattenstadt, wherethere are two hills which appear to be nothingbut heaps ofbones and arms, the consequence ofabattle fought several ages since. It is better togo on to Stufenberg than to sleep at Ballenstadt,there you will find good company, and all the conveniences of life. This is the extent of thejourney to the Hartz mountains, which, accordingto the route here sketched out, may with ease beperformed in twelve or fourteen days.THE HARTZWALD, or Hart Forest, is a rangeof mountains covered with forests which extendfrom the district of Langelsheim in the Duchy ofBrunswick, and the territory of Goslar, throughthe eastern part of Grubenhagen, part ofthe country ofWernigerode, and the principality of Blan- kenberg, as far as the counties of Hohenstein andStolberg to Hartzgerode in Anhalt, being aboutsixty English miles in length and twenty- five inbreadth. It is noted for its rich mines of silver,copper, lead, and iron, and is divided into theUpper and Lower Hartz , the former ofwhichGG 3342 HILDESHEIM, THE BLOCKSBERG.belonged, partly to the Electoral house of Hanoverand partly to the Ducal house of Brunswick; butabout the year 1789, the Duke of Brunswick exchanged his share of the Upper Hartz with Hanover for 70,000 acres of wood- land, a salt work,and several chases. The highest mountain oftheHartz is the lofty Brocken, or Blocksberg, in thecounty ofWernigerode.HILDESHEIM is seventeen miles southeast ofHanover. As this Bishoprick has lately been ap- propriated to the Electorate, or rather to the newkingdom of Hanover, the capital of which is only sixteen miles south-east of that place, it may notbe improper to observe, that this bishoprick issurrounded by the principalities of Wolfenbuttel,Grubenhagen, Halberstadt, and Lunenburg. Its numerous mountains are covered with thickforests, and its rivers abound in fish. It containseight large and four small towns, and 234 villages,divided into sixteen districts. The inhabitantsderive their chief support from their trade in charcoal and yarn. Most ofthem are Calvinists, butthe Bishop and Chapter, with the remainder, areCatholics. The capital (Hildesheim) is large,but not fortified, and is situated on the river Innerste, which washes the north- west side of it,forming an island, covered with pretty gardens.It is divided into the Old and New Town.Cathedral belongs to the Catholics. Under theoldgovernment, the city acknowledged the Bishopfor its Sovereign, but did not pay allegiance tohim.TheIfwhen at Hanover you should wish to returnby way of Hamburgh, distant fourteen posts anda half, the road lies through Zell, a town of meanappearance, and without trade or commerce. Thecastle is a stately building surrounded a moat,•ZELL, TKE PRINCESS CAROLINE. 343and strongly fortified. It was formerly the residence ofthe Dukes of Zell, and was repaired someyears since by the King of England for the reception ofhis unfortunate sister; the apartments arespacious and convenient, and were handsomelyfurnished for her reception.This Princess, Caroline Matilda, died here in1775, being carried off by a malignant fever in thetwenty- fourth year of her age. She was marriedto the King ofDenmark in 1766, and being accusedof carrying on a treasonable intrigue with the Counts Strunsee and Brandt, those noblemen werebeheaded, and she was confined in the castle ofCronenburg, near Elsineur; but at the requestof his Majesty, her brother, she was removed tothis place in his Hanoverian dominions, whereevery thing seemed to have been arranged for her in the style of the other small German Courts, andnothing was omitted which could render the unfortunate Queens situation as comfortable as possible;but by far her greatest consolation seemed to bethe company and conversation of her sister, as in her absence she became a prey to the deepest dejection and despondency.The principal church here contains severalcuriosities; the monument ofthis Queen, and hercoffin are of exquisite workmanship. Inthe royalgarden here, is another monument to the memoryof her Majesty, by Osser. This garden is one ofthe public promenades.Trade, Manufactures, and Commerce. —Jewellery, Bleachery, and the making of bougies; thelatter made at Zell, have a very extensive sale.After you quit Zell you travel for the remainingeight posts on a very disagreeable road to Hamburgh. The best place to stop at is Wetzendorf;344 HARBURGH, THE BOOMHOUSE, &c.even there, however, the accommodations arevery indifferent.HARBURGH nearly opposite Hamburgh. Twoboats called the Passager Ever, ply every daybetween these two places. The expense of thepassage by these, or in a boat hired for the purpose,is much the same, viz. about four or five rix- dollars. The fare lies between the islands of Williamsburg and Hochschauer; the first of themalone nearly supplies Hamburgh with milk. Atthe Blockhouse at Harburg your pass is demandedand at the Baum, or Boomhouse, at Hamburgh,you generally land. A number of officious persons are always in attendance, to take charge ofyourgoods, or to procure you horses, &c. but it isindispensably necessary to make an agreementwith them beforehand, as to the price of their services.Trade, Manufactures, &c.-Starch, woollens,ribbons, bleacheries, sugar refineries, masts,casks, & c.HAMBURGH, On the Elbe and the Alster,nearly seventy miles from the entrance ofthe firstofthese rivers into the German Ocean, strikes theeye as a great city by its numerous lofty buildingsand spires, particularly the church of St. Michael,from the tower ofwhich there is a very good viewof this busy city and its environs. People generally landing at the Boomhouse, may be muchamused in observing the passage- boat whichcrosses the river once or twice a day from Hamburgh to Harburg, stowed close with the peopleof all nations, in all sorts of dresses; the men allwith pipes in their mouths, of all shapes and fancies, straight and wreathed, simple and complex,long and short; cane, clay, porcelain, wood andMODE OF DRESS AT HAMBURGH. 345tin; silver and ivory, many of them with silverchains, and silver bole covers. Pipes and bootsare the first characteristic of the male Hamburghers, which strike the eye of a fresh traveller.The women, many of them exhibit large umbrella hats, shooting out half a yard before them,with caps plated on the caul with silver or gold,or both bordered round with stiffened lace." The ladies in Hamburgh," Mr. Coleridgesays, " in English dresses, are all rouged, and allwith bad teeth, which you notice instantly fromtheir striking contrast to the beautiful mother ofpearl- whiteness, and regularity of the laughing,loud-talking country women and servant girls,who with their clean white stockings, and withslippers without heel quarters, tripped along thedirty streets, as if they were secured by a charmfrom the dirt, and with a lightness which surprisedme. The streets narrow; to my English nosewere sufficiently offensive and explained at firstsight, the universal use of boots. Without anyappropriate path for the foot passengers, the gable ends of all the houses are towards the streets, somein the ordinary triangular form, and entire as thebotanists say, but the greater number notched andscolloped with more than Chinese grotesqueness;above all I was struck with the profusion ofwindows, so large, and so many, that the houses lookall glass. I moved on, and crossed a multitude ofugly bridges with huge black deformities of waterwheels close by them. This city might have beenthe rival of Venice, and it is, huddle and ugliness,stench and stagnation . The Jungfer Stieg (i. e.Young Ladies Walk) is an exception. It is awalk planted with treble rows of elm-trees, whichbeing yearly pruned and cropped, remain slim anddwarf-like. This walk occupies one side of aE346 CHURCH OF ST. NICHOLAS.square piece of water, with many swans perfectlytame, showy pleasure-boats with ladies moving amongtheswans,rowed bytheir husbandsor lovers.Upon the sign-boards of the shops in Hamburgh,all the articles sold within are painted accordingto the ability of the artist. In this great mart ofnations we are further amused by the incessanttinkling ofthe shop and house door bell” “ I wished myselfa painter," said the traveller last quoted," that I might have sent a sketch of one of thecard parties." The long pipe of one of theserested on the table, its bole halfa yard from hismouth fuming like a censer by the fish-pool: theother gentleman who was dealing the cards, andofcourse had both hands employed, held his pipein his teeth, which hanging down between hisknees, smoked between his ancles, Hogarth himself never drew a more ludicrous distortion, bothof attitude and physiognomy, than this effort oc- casioned.The huge church of St. Nicholas is so clusteredabout with buildings, that they are compared towens and warts, and its high massive steeple issaid to be necklaced with a round of large giltballs. A better pole star could scarcely be de- vised.A considerable number of the streets are regular and handsome, and many of the houses arebuilt of stone; and the canals, which intersect themost commercial quarters, and receive the Elbe,contribute greatly to the speedy discharge andloading of vessels. A recent traveller observes,that "Hamburgh is indeed a proud monument ofthe power ofcommerce, and a striking instance ofthe advantages which superior degrees offreedomalone can confer: close to it, possessing equallyall the benefits of the Elbe, stands the town ofALTONA; A PLEASANT ANECDOTE. 347Altona, which might be a dangerous rival, if notdepressed by a despotic government. But whilstHamburgh, free and unshackled, possesses docks,canals, and the traces of a numerous shipping,Altona presents only silent streets, and in the river a line of miserable gun-boats, to guard againstsmuggling."Altona is, however, a neat town, and many ofthe houses on the promenade are superior tothose of Hamburgh. At the end of Altona is avery pleasant promenade, called Pall Mall,planted with rows of trees, and through severalopenings, on the left, are fine views over the Elbeon the opposite shore. The quietness and proximity of Altona to Hamburgh induce many merchants, who have houses at Hamburgh, to reside at that place. This proximity also, duringthe reign of the French, gave rise to a pleasantmode of eluding their decrees, which was putin practice for some time with great success. Thecoachman of the French minister of police, beingbribed, smuggled coffee and sugar at proper opportunities from Altona into Hamburgh, in hismaster's coach. Here a respectable figure appeared in great state sitting at the window! Itwasthe ingenious broker himself, properly dressed,and decorated with the grand cross ofthe Legionof Honour. The gate flewopen, the guard presented arms, and the coffee passed with everymark of respect. Unfortunately for the poorbroker, the astonishingly frequent visits of hisExcellency's coach began at length to excite suspicion; the door was opened rather abruptly, andhe was discovered with his insignia sitting uponbags of coffee and sugar. Thus terminated aspeculation, like many others, where the success348 MORAL CHARACTER OF HAMBURGNERS.of the commencement has prompted men to pushtheir advantages too far.The female servants in Hamburgh are distinguished by a peculiar costume, and a great live- liness in their air and manners; they are veryattentive to their dress, and never appear in thestreets without carrying a little basket coveredwith an elegant handkerchief, and sometimes ashawl of some value. A very general depravityof manners, it is said, prevails among the lowerclasses at Hamburgh, and extends higher thanmight naturally be supposed.Ås to the moral character of the Hamburghers,it is said, that " in the true spirit of commerce theywill always demand a proportionate recompencefor any trifling service they render you; if one ofthem was only to assist you in getting out of theboat, he will hold out his hand, and expect to receive a penny for his trouble." Every part oftheir conduct, even their gait in walking, discoversa littleness of mind, and a sneaking temper, whichyou never perceive among the common people ofEngland. The vices of the Hamburghers, likethose of all money making men, are ofthe littleand sordid kind; they chiefly consist in avarice,voluptuousness, and low debauchery. Of thelodging houses here, which are very numerous,there is scarcely one in five that is not a place ofassignation for the accommodation of merchants.Sometimes a merchant, for his own convenience,becomes the owner of one ofthese lodging-houses,and he places a favourite female there to let hislodgings, &c.When an Englishman, or other foreigner who arrive here, is introduced to a family, the firstinquiry is, " what house does he belong to?"CONVIVIAL SOCIETIES IN HAMBURGH. 349Next, what is his property, and what commercialobject has be in view? If nothing more than aprivate gentleman with a fortune just sufficient tolive upon, travelling merely for amusem*nt, hemay depend on being received with coldness byany merchant of Hamburgh, to whom he shouldbe so imprudent as to bring a letter of introduc- tion.Thus commercial speculation and avarice prevail with these people even in their pleasures.The hotels and coffee-houses are almost the onlyplaces where a stranger can expect to meet withpleasant and rational society. At each ofthe former, there is a table d'hote, or public dinner, atwhich fifty or sixty gentlemen and ladies sit downevery day. Besides natives of Hamburgh, thesecompanies are composed of persons from the interior of Germany and other parts of Europe.Though the females are inferior to the English inbeauty, they are much more animated, and less reserved; they feel no embarrassment at dining inpublic, and German parents at those places aredelighted to hear their daughters converse withforeigners particularly in the French language.There is a public supper, as well as an ordinary,every night at the hotels. In fine weather, thecompany rise from supper about ten o'clock, andproceed to a public garden which they call Vauxhall; the admittance here is sixteen pence; thecompany stay till twelve or one o'clock.The tea-gardens in the environs of Hamburghare so crowded on a Sunday evening, that peoplewould think there was not a person left within thewalls of the city. Bands of music, and dancingparties, are common to them all. Within the citythe principal places of amusem*nt are the twoH H350 PUBLIC BUILDINGS, RAMPARTS.theatres, the one German, the other French. Themusic of the operas performed here is admirable.The public buildings here are very inconsiderable. The Dom Kirk, or the cathedral, affordsnothing that will interest those who have seenany of the cathedrals in England or France. TheNew Exchange here, built under M. Hostrub'sinspection, is a fine building; as are also thehotels of the Imperial Embassy, that of CountPotocki, &c. &c. There is also an obelisk erectedto the memory of Professor Busch. The collections and cabinets here are numerous, viz. thoseofthe Chinese pictures belonging to M. Beckman,M. Bertheau's paintings, and those of several greatmasters belonging to the Senators M. M. Schmidt,and Meyer.The ramparts of Hamburgh appear like hugegreen cushions, one rising above another, withtrees growing in the spaces between them. Thesepublic walks were completely destroyed by theFrench in June, 1813, for the purpose ofsecuringthemselves, by erecting fortifications.M. Coleridge, describing his recent visit to theeity of Hamburgh, says, "of my return 1 havenothing worth communicating, except that I took,extra post, which answers to posting in England.These North German post chaises, are uncoveredwicker carts; an English dust cart is a piece offinery, a chef d'œuvre of mechanism, comparedwith them; and the horses! a savage might usetheir ribs instead of his fingers for a numerationtable. Wherever we stopped, the postilion fedhis cattle with the brown rye bread, of which heate himself; all breakfasting together; only thehorses had no gin to their water, and the postilionno water to his gin.",FEAST OF ST. MICHAEL, SIEGE, &c. 351Before I quit the subject of Hamburgh, let mesay that I remained a day or two longer than Iotherwise should have done, in order to be present at the feast of St. Michael, the patron saint ofHamburgh, I was, however, disappointed; therewere no processions: two or three sermons werepreached to two or three old women, in two orthree churches, and St. Michael and his patronagewished elsewhere, by the higher classes: all placesof entertainment, theatres, &c. being shut up onthis day. In Hamburgh there seems to be no religion at all; in Lubeck it is confined to the women.You will not easily conceive a more singular sightthan is presented by the vast aisle of the principalchurch at this place seen from the organ loft; for,being filled with female servants and persons inthe same class of life, and all their caps havinggold and silver cauls, it appears like a rich pavement ofgold and silver.The whole amount of the losses caused by theFrench at Hamburgh between the 30th of May,1813, and the 30th of May, 1814, as delivered inofficial reports to the prefects, may be estimated atseventy-five millions of francs, being upwards ofthree millions sterling.During the siege, the price of provisions andfuel was excessively high; and towards its close,neither wine, milk nor fresh meat, was to be procured on any terms.Horseflesh not only constituted the food of thetroops, but also that of the inhabitants. Dysenteryraged among them and cut off many victims, including the greater part of the physicians, surgeons, and apothecaries. The military buryingground in front of the Damgate, but afterwardsremoved to St. George's Fields, near the city,certainly received more thanten thousand bodies.HH 2352 HAMBURGH BANK, INNS, &C.The Hamburgh Bank was reopened on the 7thofJune, 1814, with a capital of halfa million sterling. The unlimited credit of this bank is a certain sign of the riches of the state, and of theright notions which prevail here with respect to every thing which has a relation to trade. Thefoundations on which this bank rests, are the simplest that can be imagined. There is neitherpaper nor any sort of coined money, but only alarge quantity of silver, which is measured out bythe pound. Like the bank of Amsterdam this is,however, one of the most respected and secure ofall the establishments in the world.Inns-the King of England (an excellent Inn)the Kramer Amt House, the Red-House, theBlack Eagle, the city of London, city of Peterburg, the Baum- House, where there is a fine viewofthe port, the Hotel de Holland, &c. All theseInns are good, and several of them have ordinaries at a reasonable charge.Manufactures and Trade. India and printedcottons, cloths, velvet, gold and silver wire: galoons, woollen stockings, rough hides, hats, &c.Here there used to be not less than 336 sugarrefineries, great and small. The refined sugarhere surpasses any in the north. Here are severalsilk milfs, rope grounds, &c. How far the tradeof Hamburgh is likely to increase to any thinglike its standard before the late war, is yet aproblem.For the convenience of correspondence, besidesposts to almost every part of the Continents ofEurope and America, here is a kind of penny post,by which deliveries of letters, packets, &c. aremade six times a day, both in the city and its environs. These postmen, like the General post inDIRECTIONS TO STRANGERS. 353London, announce their approach by the ringingof a bell.Strangers who on their arrival at Hamburghshould prefer the German way of living, may goto the King of England, the Kaisers Hoff, or the Red House; but if he would choose English fires,English dinners, and English beds, newspapers,&c, he must repair to Atkinson's at the New Globe,which is near Lilburn's Old Globe, frequented bycaptains ofships from every quarter of the world.Embarking here on your return to England, theleft or south side of the river presents an extensiveprospect ofa flat, fertile country, bounded by distinct rising heights.Sixteenmiles from Hamburghthe Danish villageVeder ornaments the left bank of the Elbe withits black steeple, and close by it is the wild andpastoral hamlet of Schulau , here the shore risesforty or fifty feet; between this place and Blankaness nearer Hamburgh, the multitude of fishinghoats, and the flocks of sea gulls wheeling roundthem, present a most interesting scene; furtheron, towards Cuxhaven, the beautiful banks oftheElbe, particularly the right side, presents a profusion of steeple spires, white, black, and red, and isbesides covered with villas,turrets, summer-houses,and gardens, mostly belonging to the opulent citizens of Hamburgh.About six miles lower down the Elbe, you arrive off Stade, where a guard- ship is stationed forthe purpose oftaking an account ofthe cargo, andreceiving a duty called Stader Gelt. No great wayfurther is Gluckstadt, a regularly fortified townbelonging to the Danes; about 70 English milesfrom Hamburgh, is Cuxhaven in the Bailliwick ofRitzebuttel, in the Dutchy of Bremen, which, sincethe conclusion ofthe peace with France and Den- HH 3354 VARIOUS PLACES ON THE ELBE.mark, has again become the general station oftheEnglish packet boats. Here are two good EnglishTaverns, Miles's and Ellison's. One ofthe senatorsof Hamburgh, is always governor of Ritzebuttel.The passage from Hamburgh to this place by land,is performed in two days in a post waggon, andcosts about a guinea or eighteen marks; but thepassage by water; which we have just described,costs but half that sum, and in fine weather is byfar the pleasantest, and will occupy but a fewhours according to wind and weather. Embarking in the packet for Yarmouth, the first object to the left is the little Fort of Niewerk, you sooncome to the White Buoy, and next, to the Vogelsands. Ditmarsh in Holstein is on the right, andyou nowfast approach the Red Buoy, which is offthe island of Heiligoland, the Sacra Insula of theancients. This Island, which belonged to Denmark, till it was ceded by the late peace to GreatBritain, is situated about twenty- four Englishmiles N. W. from the mouth of the Elbe, and iseasily distinguishable by its light-house, an important sea-mark in dark or stormy weather.When you lose sight of Heiligoland, the nextobject which presents itself is the invulnerableEnglish coast, the constant abode of security, and the inviolate sanctuary ofpeace.INDEX.ANDERNACHAntlers, a collection ofAntwerp, 155- Church of, the grand Jesuit's, 156- the Maison de Ville, 157 -auctions at midnight, ib .injuries the fine arts have sustained there, 158- Monument of Quintin Matsys , 159—Cathedral, ib .-Crucifix and inscription, 160- value of money at, ib.-trade.... •Arnheim......Asmanshausen and Bacharach..Augsburg, 234- its public edifices, ib.-Roman antiquities, 235-public walks near.Aulne, Abbey of, magnificent ruins ofAix-la-Chapelle, account of, 133-kingdom of, 135–Affschaffenberg.Agriculture and weaving unitedgreat church of... Albert, Durer, several paintings by.Alkmaar..Alley, the Green, how diversified .Page 195 229160100206235 12123816213624688153Almanacks in Prussia prohibited .31878 -Altona, a neat town, 347-pleasant mode of eluding French decrees atAmsterdam, 72-Bank of, 77-Police of, excellent,promenades and public buildings , ib . - Collections and Cabinets , 79—literary and useful esta- blishments, ib.-Inns and Manufactures, 80 -Routefrom to ZutphenAnemone beautiful , or Sorcerer's flowerBamberg, 241-Cathedral most magnificent.Barbarossa, the renowned.. ...Behaim Martin, the Captain Cook ofhis age .........Belgium, the real epoch of its splendour, 114-a model to other countries, ib.-epitome of its history,116 , 117 , 118-the newest roads inBerchtoldsgaden, a charming prospect.Bergen-op-Zoom... Berlin, 322, 323, 324-arsenal at, ib.-Route from Hanover to Hamburgh, 339 —Royal Palace at, de- scribed34781339 241233 245155 26371326, 327356 INDEX.Beurtshippen the, account of ...Bible English, rare, printed at Oxford, 334-the first edition upon parchment .Bielshole and another grotto..Bingen, the famous BingerlochBlankaness, an interesting scene nearBlockingenPage18... 218..: 340205, 213, 214Boats, Flemish, beauty and convenience of…….. Bois le Duc..Bolswert....Bommel, 93-taken by the English.. Boniface, St., Gospels written by, 90-well of..353... 233Bonn, 192 -splendid architecture of its cathedral, 193,194-the Hochkreutz near itBopparts.....Bornhofen, a place of pilgrimage Borscheid, fine town of, 137-hot springs of.Brandenburg BrannauBread made of spelt.Breda....Brill, the· 110, 11192899390194 199206137- 339266123... 7047, 48 Brock in North HollandBrocken Mountain, the, 337 to 342- roads for carriages to, 339- Inns upon, ib. -the Albums, &c. ib .-Wizard's Chair and Wizard's Altar . upon, ib. ~height of, ib. -curiosities in the environs of..Bruges, 108, 109-conveyance from to Ghent, 109,110-its ancient monuments, 165-its former exports, 166- the Hotel de Ville, ib.-the Church ofNotre Dame, ib.-reward bestowed by the Emperor Napoleon on the beadle of, ib. - Monument and inscription upon Charles the Bold, 167-of Mary ofBurgundy .Brussels , road to, described, 139-population of, 140 -fine monuments, ib.- Hotel de Ville , 141 - thegreat Market-place, ib . -churches and fountains,142, 143-theatres, 144-streets and river's side,112, 145 -the park and palace of Schonenberg, orLacken, 147- magnificent paintings, 147, 148, 149,150, 151 - museums, ib.-accommodations at, ex- ceed those of ParisCabinet Literaire, or Book Society85340167151, 152218•INDEX.Charlemagne, crown and mantle of, 247-monument ofCanon, la Folle Marguerite Carlsbad, baths at, &c.CarlsruheCarlstadt near Dusseldorff.Castles on the Danube ..Charleroy... Clemenswerth, Castle of..357Page136163, 290 , 291 , 292227, 228 17925612292173338129, 130, 131 19891Cleves, charges at the inns, considerable, 172-ac- count ofthe town of-face of the countryClouds, houses in the..Coal mines near Liege inundated .· Coblentz, 197 -city of, account of......... Coeverden ...........Coleridge, Mr. his description of HamburghCologn, 183-extent of, ib.-privileged beggars, ib .-nunneries , abbės, rough dirty clowns, 184-anecdotes ofthe corporation, 184, 185-superstition of,186-churches , pictures, bridges, &c. 187 , et seq.-flying bridge at, 190-diligences, &c... Conradin, the unfortunate......Convents, &c. ruins of....Country house, singular situation of.Country, the golden, why so called Crucibles of Passau ...Cuxhaven, 353- English taverns atCuylenburg..... Danube, the, description of, 259-a voyage on..Darmstadt, account of, 221 , 222, 223—the country in350191232 252126 230 251Crucifix, a wooden, made by Albert Durer.245......... 35493252Delftthe environs of. ..DettingenDenmark, Queen of, confined at Cronenburg ·Deventer .Devil, the whimsical idea ofDevil's Wall, the22456, 57, 58 23834891178256Ditmarsh. 354Dockum..Doesburg.Dordrecht, or DortDrakenfels, 194-its picturesque vicinity...89101.. 55, 56 ..... 194358 INDEX.Dresden, 295- curiosities at, 296, 297, 298—Academyof fine arts newly modelled, 299-environs delightful, 300-romantic spot of ruins near, ib .-finebridge of.Driving on the grass, a law against DurlachDusseldorf, 174- statutes, paintings, &c. 175, 476,177, 178-promenades atPageDutch toys, where first imported from, 248-shops,fifty years behind the English, 50 amusem*nts of the....... Edam .Egra, waters of, or Franzbrunnen.Ehrenbretstein, 207-valley of.......301 224 228180theatrical5087293, 294 207315$53841 293• 293 254Eisleben, 315- Luther's pulpit, cloak, and cap, pre- served here Elbe, the advantages in trade, 330-beautiful banksofElbingerode, its castle, promenades, &c.Elgenbausen.. Ellbogen.... Engelshardelle, dirty inns atEnkhuysen.Enns.... Embden .. Erasmus, statue of.ErfurtErlangen, or Christian Erlang Erzgebirge, the ....Exterstein, the, antiquity of .. Faille, the, or veil worn at Brussels.Findlater, Lord, munificence of.... •82, 87 2668650312248

293 337

152292Flanders Head, the, and country ofWaes... 161 , 162Flemish terms and their derivations, 114, 115-paintings, by whom preserved, 116-language, or Brabant Walloon..Fontanes les Trois, an agreeable village Forcheim , the Sacoritum of the ancients ....Frankfort, 216, 217, 218 suburbs of, 219- routefrom to MunichFromage de Herve GeisenheimGeislingen Gemersheim119153243221134204, 205 , 213 233 227INDEX. 359PageGenerals, French, Hoche and Marceau, monuments of 197Germany, the posts in, 30-the only way of travellingcomfortably in, 34-the language of, 36-manufactures and productions of, 37-cultivation of tobacco in, ib.geographic sketch of, 170, 171 - itsproduce, ib.-route to, through Nimuegen........ 172Gertruydenberg .Ghent, 162-singular custom at, 163 -cathedral, copy of an ancient Bible, ib. -characterized in some Belgic verses, 164 -conveniences of the hoy, ib.- routes from to Bruges.....Giant Mountains, directions.to.Gluckstadt71164Goar, St.....Goffin, M. his heroic firmness .Gorcum .....Gospels four, in Latin, manuscript of, 242-another with a commentary by St. Jerome.. Gospels, Greek, copy of, 900 years old……...Gotha, 313-public library of...Gottingen, 337- its various institutions .. Gouda .......Granite, enormous blocks of, form a bridge.Groninguen Grotto, the famous, or Bauman's Hole Grotius, his drawings..303, 304, 305353 200-20613356242247313337593409034056 Gustavus Adolphus, his cravat, 235-killed at Lutzen 315 Hague the, account of, 60 to 65-singular annual cus- tom at-Hamburgh, female servants in, their dress and manners, 348-lodging-houses at, ib, -moral character of the people of, ib.-hotels and coffee-houses, 349-tea-gardens, ib. public buildings, cathedral,ramparts, 350-losses caused by the French at, 851 -siege of, ib.-horseflesh the food of the inhabit- ants, 352-bank of, ib.-inns and manufactures, ib.taverns, 353- dresses of the men and women, 345-narrow streets and grotesque houses in, ib.-the young ladies' walk at, ib. - sign-boards and house- bells , 346- a proud monument of the power of commerce .Hamlet, an EnglishHammerstein, opposite Reineck.Hanau, one of the most regular towns61346 231 195237, 2381360Hanover..INDEX.......Page 333, 384 344TO89Harburgh, nearly opposite Hamburgh…….Harlem , 69-veens, or turf pits at, 69—meer, account of......Harlinguen Hartz Mountains, extent of the journey to, 341– forest, the 337, 338, 339, 340, 341Harwich, route from, by Helveotsluys.Heidelberg, 224- cathedral divided between Protestants and Catholics , ib . -charming promenade from,225-- orangery, ib.C remains of the EquestrianHall atHeilbronnHeiligoland43225232, 263 354Hildesheim, its numerous mountains, villages, &c. .. 342Helmstadt, 332-Hirchsprung, the, or Hartsleap... 292Helveotsluys .... Herrenhausen, palace ofHerrings, Dutch mode of preserving.Hills of bones and arms.Hocheim, excellent cabbages, asparagus, &c.Hochst, village of........44, 45, 46 33480341216216Holland, language of, 21-standard weight of gold in,22-silver and copper money in, 21 , 22—the pro- vinces of 38-Polders in, describedHollanders, diversions of the , 25-insides of theirhouses, decorations of, ib .-plodding, anecdote of,25-mode of eating, 27-—of drinking tea, 28-women, general examples, ib.-mode of announcing births and deaths..Hollander, his humanity to animals.... Hoorn ...Hot-houses, where first used.Horses, sagacity of ...Hueb, warm springs of Huy, remarkable for antiquity.Jena....Inn, a Westphalian describedJohannesberg, prospect from..Ips.. Juliers, the road to .Kilien, St. Gothic tower of.Kraft, Adam, the seven pillars ofKnights, two celebrated40296487 225.103230126 311180204, 211 267 137 232....... 246232Konigstein, fortress of..Koran, minute copy oftheINDEX. 361Page 301327249 104308, 30989Lances used in 913 ..Landen, the seat of Pepin..Leipsic, account of, 307-fair of LeuwardenLeyden, 66- prints and monuments at, ib.-University of, 66, 67-Museum and Botanic Garden, ib.-dreadful explosion at...Liege, description of, 125-its romantic beauty, 125,126, 127 - church of St. Paul atLimbourg, duchy of, its delicious cheese, butter,68128134, 135 &c.Lintz, famous for capons, 195-the capital of UpperAustria, 251 - celebrated for beautiful women.....Loo, a noble structureLouvain, account of, 137 , 138-Various kinds of beer25192at..139 Low Countries, measures for their security, &c. 113- warm panegyric upon 113Lowenstein, the baths of. 232231330Ludwigsburgh.. Luther, where educated , 330-his chamber, bedstead,and table......LutzenLuxembourg, duchy of, 121 , 122, 123-a Switzer- land in miniature, ib.-luxuries of, 124-town of,described ....Maestricht on the Maese, 101-glass-house at, ib.-stone-quarries and labyrinth near, 101 -blue mar- ble and brick, 102-Trou au Loupe and subter- ranean passages at…….Maesland SluiceMagdeburgMalines, its commerce, beer, pork shops, 154- its good eating no where exceeded MarienkirkManheim315124102, 10349330, 331155112225250 262 • 259 33988Manuscript in golden letters , and old Lombard cha- racterMaribella, palace of....Maximilian, pictures of his sixteen mistresses .May, the first of, celebrated by ancient Saxons Medemblick .I I362 INDEX.PageMentz, 200 -markets and cathedral, 201 -church ofSt. Ignatius, 202-the country between that andFrankfort..Mercury, antique statue of Merseburg..Meuse, the rocky shores of .Mills for turning works in Minden .Moelk, superb ruins near Molsdorf .copper.Money-making men, vices of.Monikedam .Montebauer Monument made of cannonMoordyck214, 215 230311121247 295256, 267 31434887199 21955Moravians, a colony of 314Mouse Tower, the 213Mountains, the Seven 193, 194Mum, so named after its inventor . 332Munich described, 256, 257 , 258-route to through Ratisbon .. 237Murg, delightful valley ofthe 229Naarden .....Nahe, the river, its narrow channel80 213Namur, route from to Liege, 106 -town of, 119 kitchen-gardens near, ib. -crabs of, and delicious熟fish, 120 churches of, ib.-iron mines near, 121-mode of polishing marble at NaumburgNapoleon Louis, palace of Neerwinden, battles of .....Nenndorf, springs of.NewiedNiewerk, fort of· 12131175105294197 , 207 204354170Niederwald, 204-Count D'Ostein's English gardenNimuegen, 99- swing-bridge at, ib.-route from to Frankfort .Nuremberg, 244-curious mode of opening gates at 244 Nusdorf..Nymphenburg, charming palace of,Offenbach, manufactories there .Olympia Fulvia, inscription upon..Orange, Princes of, their family vault.Ostend, 106- sluices, sea-bathing, &c..26725822022557, 58168 , 169 ...INDEX.Oudenarde.....Oxen, enormously fat..Paintings at Rotterdam, 53, 54-upon cobwebs.. Paracelsus the chemist, tomb'of.Peasantry, Flemish, costume of..Pepin's court and other derivations .Pilnitz, viewsfromPfaltz, the fort . resembling a ship .Plain seventy leagues in extent, view of Plettersdorf and PopplesdorfPoelten.....Pommersfelden, beautiful palace of.Portland Gardens, or Sorg Vliet363Page97 162.... 250263 152105300206338193267242, 243... 65350317 , 318 Post-chaises, North German, described Potzdam... ...Preul and Priening, the Chartreuse of St. Bennet Prague, 283, 284, 285-advantages of the table hereincomparable, 287-route from to Dresden...……….Procession, annual, ofyoung people .... Prussians, the Macedonians of GermanyPullet Priests, what.. Purmerend250287 31230110587........ 136336336319Pyramid dedicated to the Emperor NapoleonPyrmont, 335- proper time for drinking the waters,ib. environs picturesqueQuakers, a colony of.Quantz the Musician, monument of...Rastadt, 228, 229.-two French ministers massacred,ib.-Excursion from to Baden..... 229Ratisbon, 249- its exterior dark and dismal, ib . - pa- laces of the Dukes of Bavaria at, ib. —monument ofHenry the Fowler, 249- Bridge of, the finest on the Danube, ib. Churches, Cabinets, Collections ...... 250 Remangen... 195 , 197Rhine the, and tolls upon it, 187 -an Excursion uponand the Rhinegau described, 202, 210, 211-Rhineboats.the, description of 203-Causeway new upon.the Rhine, made by the French, 204-Views on the delightful, 204-ruined convents, and Monasteries on theRiesengebirge, or Giant Mountains Ritzebuttel.Rock.an.isolated ...206 302353, 354 340Roland Werth religious ladies of, spared by Napoleon 206 112364 INDEX.Romburgh.. Rondell, the, at Amsterdam .Roozendaal garden of ......Page9373100Rosstrappe, or horse trap, the 340Rotterdam described 48 to 56-number of English in 51Rudelsheim, the walk to , 205, 210, 211 , -wine of212, 213 Ruyter de, Admiral….Ryswick, village of.Sachs John, a poet .Saltzburg .Sans Souci, the two celebrated palaces of7662248260 261.320 321 322Sardam, or Zaardam, 82-house of Peter the Great at83-Sawmills at, 83-Oil and tobacco mills at...... 84Saxons the Athenians of Germany .Scenery upon the Danube.. Scharnhausen .Scheveling, the Fisherman's port Scheuren, or barns in Westphalia.Seblangenbad... Schneckopf or Snow HeadSchulan, pastoral hamlet of...... Schwalbach .Schwetzingen.......Sculls distinguished by deep wounds .Seltzers , 208-Waters of..Sheep fed on wild herbs.301253231· 63, 64• 181 , 182207 208 313353207227 240209123Sidney, Sir Philip, ancedote of. 92Signs at Amsterdam.. 74Smoking, mode ofat Hamburgh 345, 346Spiel houses, the, in Holland.……….Spinning-wheels, first madeSpire, city of....... Spessart the..Sossau, a famous place of pilgrimage..Sorcerers flowers, the, what Stade and Stader Gelt...52, 53 332226238 251339353Stadt House, the, at AmsterdamStahlbrunnen, or the Steel Wells Storks in Holland.....74, 75 20750251 Straubing..Stutgard, 230 - surrounded by vineyards, ib. -remarkable buildings, ib. -literary establishments,231 -delightful environs of.... 231INDEX .Stutgarders, the, enjoy a double portion of necessa- ries..Sweden, Christina, Queen, house of...Termonde, 161 - its villages equal to towns Texel, the, island of………………..Thomas à Kempis, his school .365Page231232 16282, 85, 869173196 Theatre, the Dutch at AmsterdamTimber, floats of, amazing on the Rhine.Tirlemont 105Travellers, General Directions to , 1 to 13- Directionsto, in Holland, 16 , 20--- in Germany, 30---inPrussia 317,318Travelling, difference between in England and the Continent, 38 -mode of from Berlin to Dresden ….. 325Treckschuyt, the description of, 16-directions respecting .Treves, 199-palaces and churches, ib.-cathedral and university, 200-garden of Knoll at, ib. -Val- ley of PolbenTribunal, secret and terrible , or Vehm Gericht.Tromp Van, Admiral, house of.. Tobacco discoveredTuf-stone, the or, lapis tophaceous..192702299737196Tongres, once the chief place of Belgic Gaul 103Toplitz, 288-vicinity of.. 289Tournaments, sanguinary, suppressed 331Tunnenstein, or Heilbronn, mineral waters of 197Turenne Marshal, spot where he was killed , 230-tree under which he died, ib . -chapel, pyramid and new monument.Vandyke's Tomb of ChristVeder, Danish village of.Vienna and suburbs, 268, 269-cheapness of living at,ib.-stables large, ib. -music, ib. -the lemonadebooths, 270-Prater at and equipages, 271 —amphitheatre, ib . Augarten, the, 273-the ramparts,273-French and German Theatres, the Opera, 273,274-Cathedral, 275 -libraries, ib. public buildings, 276 , 277 -cabinet of medals , 277 -Madam de Stael, on, 278 -neighbourhood of, 279-promenades, 280- beer, inns, manufactures, &c. 281 , 282-route from, to Dresden..Village Fair, by Gerard Dow..Villages, large, in the Rhinegau, 211 -of a singular construction ..230177353282177137366 INDEX.Ulm, 233-singular practice of fattening snails at, ib.gingerbread of ... Uniting Christians, the, a new sect in Holland ...Voyage by water from Ratisbon to Vienna ..Utrecht, agreeable excursion to, 94-singular modeof announcing lodgings at, 95-tower of the cathe- dral described, ib. various views from, 96-Travellers, notice to ... Wageningen .....Waterfall, a beautiful ..Well, a dry one, 600 feet deep... Wesel....Page2333025597 100264340174Westphalia, necessaries and delicacies of life cheap in 182Whirlpools in the Danube.... Winschooten...Wild boar, chase of the .....Wine of St. Esprit, in sealed bottles...Winsbach and Schoenberg, ancient castles Wisbaden .....Worcum..25590176241206207, 20888Wurtzberg, 238- Gothic edifices at, 239-palace, the new episcopal at, ib.-citadel of, and cellars fa- mous for old wine .Wyk.....Zell, in Hanover, 343-Princess Caroline Matilda.Zealand, island of .Zeylen ....Zeyst, the French pillar at Zollikoffer, monument to the memory of Zutphen... Zwoll ....barot-idgu MVSEVMBRITANNICVM2409472343939723291, 9291but di wineBARNARD AND FARLEY,Skinner-Street, London.

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